matttintoshplus

That's all it says on that site. Can't seem to find much elsewhere.

Well, that was short-lived. I busted out Halo 2 and after about 15 minutes of playing, it powered off and gave me an orange blinking light. consolemods.org says that that means there's a "Damaged trace or solder splashed on components." I'll give the board a look over, but at this point, I'm not sure what there is left to see. I looked over anything that I soldered originally and didn't see any issues, but I guess I'll have to do that again.

Hello again everyone. I come with bad news. The bad news is I have to put the Xbox back together again... because it works!!! @Marty was right, there was a cut trace. Just one sad, lonely little cut trace. I reattached it using my newly-purchased flux and it booted up amazingly. I can't thank you guys enough! Can't wait to bust out Halo again!

I believe I connected my D0 to the rf shield. I'm not 100% positive, but I believe I remember having to solder a wire onto the aladdin and then connect it to the rf shield. As for the lframe, I never touched that. Would this cause the system to not boot into the modchip while it was still attached? Initially, when I installed the chip, it would still just boot into the regular dash. Ordered some on Amazon. I'll make another when it comes in and I'm able to reflow. Might be a week. I believe I used an average sized conical tip. Might have been a small one. I'll give the conical one a go when I reflow it. I'll add this to my list of tasks when I reflow everything. I'll post an update when I get in the flux and reflow everything. I also found something on the board that might possibly look like a damaged trace, but I'm not sure so I'm gonna inspect it a bit before doing anything to it. Thanks again for all the help so far, I thought this project was done for but now I've got a glimmer of hope.

1. That's definitely possible. I could just test around with a multimeter for connectivity at each joint, if you think that would help. Or if you have a better idea, feel free to let me know. 2. The modchip is removed, so is wiring up the LPC necessary? I figured I could just remove the modchip and wiring and everything would go back to normal. The pins on the header don't connect to anything, so I assumed reflowing it wasn't necessary. 3. The soldering iron is an Aoyue 469. I usually keep the temp pretty high (between 5 and 7 on the dial I believe). 1. No I did not, my roll of solder says it has 2% flux in it so I figured it wasn't necessary. Should I invest in some anyways? 2. Regarding the missing pin, I believe it wasn't connected to the modchip so I just removed it from the header. The top left connection and the two towards the bottom don't go anywhere so I just removed them from the header.

Looks like I may have used a slightly different LPC rebuild diagram. One of my wires went to the pad at the bottom of this diagram (below R7R5). This appears to be the only difference thought. This pic is from MrMario2011's video. Here's that connection on my board. This one doesn't look pretty but I don't see how it could damage hurt anything because it's just a pad that's not connected to anything. This picture shows where the pink and blue wires (on the first diagram) went. These ones look a little rough to me and seem like they could be a problem. Not sure what I could do to fix them if they are. This last pic shows the green connection from the first diagram. Same possible issue with this one as the last one. Looks like it could be bad, but I'm not sure what the issue would be or how to fix it. I also tried swapping out IDE cables and power supplies and neither made the Christmas lights go away. I tried to keep everything as organized as possible. If you want any more pictures or anything just let me know. I'd really love to get this one up and running because this has hours of JSRF and Battlefront 2 stored on it hahaha. I have a couple donor machines I could use, too. Anyways, thanks for looking this all over. I appreciate any and all advice.

Here's a closeup of the blue trace in the diagram (this one looks the worst to me): Close-up of the yellow trace:

About a year ago I tried to install an Aladdin into my (working, at the time) 1.6 Xbox. Lo and behold, post installation, it doesn't work. I don't remember if it would just power on without the chip or if it wouldn't power on at all. I decided to take it out and now when I power it on it tries to boot 3x then I get red and green flashing 50/50 (it stays on and just keeps flashing). I took pics of the board post-modchip removal so you guys could see if the board is a goner. I must acknowledge my soldering skills were not quite up to par at the time. Here's the diagram I followed: Here's a full shot of the LPC rebuild: Close-up of the red trace: I'll post the rest in a reply because I'm out of space here.