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My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

Hello! After months of focusing primarily on the Nintendo Wii, the Electron Shepherd team has just released a new product that we are thrilled to share: the Xbox2HDMI module! This tiny, power-packed module takes in the Component video and digital audio output from the Original Xbox and outputs an HDMI signal with embedded Dolby Digital Surround Sound (if that audio setting is enabled in your Xbox’s settings). This module utilizes a fully custom PCB with a higher quality, next generation IC compared to what is typically used on the widely available Wii2HDMI and VGA2HDMI modules that are readily available online. If you are not happy with those modules, then you will absolutely be happy with these. This module efficiently supports the 480i, 720p, and 1080i resolutions that are default to the original Xbox. These units can be bought with ease on our store located here: https://electron-shepherd.com/xbox2hdmi/ Please let use know if you have any questions about this or any other product we currently offer! - Shane from Electron Shepherd LLC https://twitter.com/ElectronShep

XBOX ORIGINAL EXECUTER 2.6CE HDMI 3TB HDD Fresh build!!! This item sold on Ebay on September 5th, 2021, but buyer just messaged me saying he doesn't have the money. Officially by Ebay, I need to wait until September 9th and I can sell wherever. I am in Utah, hoping to ship in USA if possible. $300 + $25 shipping. I'm hoping to sell this system first and see how much of a loss I will take and then likely sell my other 3CE system also... https://youtu.be/WW1PfM_ZXrY See photos here: https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/65232933 Currently loaded with 311 of the best XBOX games, but you should be able to fit EVERY XBOX game ever made for XBOX on this 3TB HDD if you use the HDD READY versions (I can show you how). Everything works correctly, ready to boot and play! My cost of parts (everything except xbox and xecuter is brand new in August 2021): $100 Stock XBOX (revision 1.6) with 2 controllers $100 XECUTER 2.6 CE Mod Chip $69 Clear Crystal Ghost Case and Blue LED Kit $86 3TB Hard Drive (Seagate BarraCuda ST3000DM007) $22 SATA to IDE adapter (StarTech IDE2SAT2) $10 Upgraded Ribbon Cable 80-way 24” $15 New Motherboard Capacitors from Mouser $4 Artic Silver Thermal Paste $7 XBOX Compatible USB Drive $5 USB to Controller Port Interface $9 Custom Jewel $33 HDMI Cable Total Parts is $460, Labor additional (please see below) I am an expert solderer. I’ve done 10,000+ repairing vintage recording consoles, so the soldering on this is expert quality. Labor was installing the Xecuter modchip (soldering), removing the clock capacitor and replaced with a capacitor (needed for the revision 1.6) (soldering), replaced 22 capacitors on Motherboard (soldering),removed all the old thermal paste on 2 heat sinks, used fresh Artic Silver thermal paste, clean inside, clean fan, install Ghostcase, install 3TB hard drive, install StarTech adapter, install upgraded 80-way cable, clean inside DVD drive and clean optical, format hard drive, install XBMC4Gamers and the best dashes, load 166 games, test. TruHeXEn 2021 DVD-r included. This sale also includes the black cover and old parts including a baggie of the old capacitors. Current DVD Drive is a Thomson TGM600 wrorking great. I installed the Ghostcase top so you can see the spinning DVD , but old cover is included. Sale includes power cable, HDMI cable, and composite cable. And 2 controllers included. All new parts were just bought in August 2021, so this is a fresh build with low hours! I can include documentation and receipts if desired. The Blue LED Kit is just tacked in place with hot glue in top center. It can easily be peeled off and moved if desired. https://youtu.be/WW1PfM_ZXrY I currently have 2 different systems for sale, see separate ads 3CE and 2.6CE...

XBOX ORIGINAL EXECUTER 3CE HDMI 3TB HDD Fresh build!!! I am located in Utah, hoping to only ship in USA if possible. $500 or best offer. I built 2 systems at same time hoping to sell the 2.6ce one and keep the 3ce, but not gettting the price I hoped so likely will have to sell both. Too many bills this week. https://youtu.be/bGeajOUkg3o See photos here: https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/65233009 Currently loaded with 311 XBOX games, but you should be able to fit EVERY XBOX game ever made for XBOX on this 3TB HDD if you use the HDD READY versions (I can show you how). Everything works correctly, ready to boot and play! My cost of parts in (everything except xbox and xecuter is brand new in August 2021): $100 Stock XBOX (revision 1.4) with 4 controllers $150 XECUTER 3 CE Mod Chip (rare and desired by many) $69 Clear Crystal Ghost Case and Blue LED Kit $86 3TB Hard Drive (Seagate BarraCuda ST3000DM007) $22 SATA to IDE adapter (StarTech IDE2SAT2) $10 Upgraded Ribbon Cable 80-way 24” $15 New Motherboard Capacitors from Mouser $4 Artic Silver Thermal Paste $7 XBOX Compatible USB Drive $5 USB to Controller Port Interface $9 Custom Jewel $33 HDMI Cable Total Parts is $510, labor additional (please see below) I am an expert solderer. I’ve done 10,000+ repairing vintage recording consoles, so the soldering on this is expert quality. Labor was installing the Xecuter modchip (soldering), removing the clock capacitor (soldering), replaced 26 capacitors on Motherboard (soldering),removed all the old thermal paste on 2 heat sinks, used fresh Artic Silver thermal paste, clean inside, clean fan, install Ghostcase, install 3TB hard drive, install StarTech adapter, install upgraded 80-way cable, clean inside DVD drive and clean optical, format hard drive, install XBMC4Gamers and the best dashes, load 166 games, test. TruHeXEn 2021 DVD-r included. This sale also includes the black cover and faceplate, old hard drive and other old parts including a baggie of the old capacitors. Current DVD drive is a Samsung SDG-605 working great and ejecting great. I replaced the rubber belt with a brand new one. I will include the old belt and another new one for backup. The Ghostcase kit has parts to make the top of the DVD drive see thru, but didn’t mount right on this drive. I will include in this sale in case you ever get a Thomson drive to use on that. Sale includes power cable, HDMI cable, component cable, and composite cable. Also includes 4 controllers. Sale includes a spare power supply (tested working). All new parts were just bought in August 2021, so this is a fresh build with low hours! I can include documentation and receipts if desired. The Blue LED Kit is just tacked in place with hot glue in top center. It can easily be peeled off and moved if desired. https://youtu.be/bGeajOUkg3o I currently have 2 different systems for sale, see separate ads 3CE and 2.6CE...

Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.

Hi all !I have an Xbox Original which is hard modded (i think is Aladdin mod but not sure, see picture). I have recently being adding stuff through FTP method, which had worked great until now. I tried to boot unleashx instead of EVO X which am currently using, but i accidentally renamed a file (i think it was unleashx.xbe) to something else and now it wont boot. it shows error 21 and the FTP method wont work anymore. Booting from disk also is not an option.Anyone knows how to fix this? i head that a hard modded xbox is easier to fix than a softmod. I just need to access the HDD to just rename the file back to how it was. I tried using explorer360 (run as admin etc.. ) but could identify the driver in any case.Any help would be appriciated, Thanks.

Hi Guys So I wanted to share what I was recently able to do using xboxhdm23usb. So I softmodded my xbox, then what I did was null my hdd key. After that I backed up my eeprom and dropped it into the xboxhdm23usb folder. I then took out the hdd and connected it to an IDE to usb adapter and then used xboxhdm23usb to unlock the drive. (This was easy because I nulled the key). I then used a program called HDD raw copy tool and was able to make a complete image of the Xbox HDD. I then relocked the drive and put it back in the xbox (Working fine). I then connected up a spare drive and used HDD raw copy tool to clone the image i made back onto the new drive, then used xboxhdm23usb to lock it. I then popped that into the Xbox and it worked as well. I then used xbpartitioner to give the remaining space to the F Drive. The nice thing about this method, is that I now have an image back up of an xbox HDD with a nulled key. So I can easy clone it to a new drive and pop it into any xbox (Provided they nulled the key on that xbox as well). Let me know what you guys think.

My Xbox is not modded and kind of wanted to keep it that way, I wanted to replace my hard drive, is it as easy as just putting a new drive in my xbox? because i heard about having to unlock and lock with eeprom key, is there a way i can do it without modding or unlocking and locking a hard drive? thankyou for your time everyone!

Hey, So I have been a lurker on here for the past 3 months, Often its been alot of you guys that have helped me diagnose issues and fix them(Reading post with the same problems etc haha), So I thought I would make my first post today showing my consoles, I am going to be taking my pictures that I posted on Instagram of my consoles and explaining them, One thing is that I have tried to avoid very very rare consoles under ~1000 made since I will be moving from here in Australia to the US so I can't spend that type of money often so I don't really want to be shipping some $3000 console half way across the world haha. I keep my collection going by fixing, modifying and selling original xbox's. I apologize for the horrible quality, I wish I knew what I did with the original photo, but this is my Halo 2 Asia, I purchased the console from Taiwan, The seller very generously gave me PRG2 NTSC-J Sealed (The Chinese version) which is my first sealed game (I don't really care for sealed games but I am not going to open one). Ever since I got mine I haven't seen one for sale again, The motherboard revision is 1.6A, It came with a Hitachi DVD drive (According to the last owner he replaced the DVD drive) My Dead or Alive Ultimate Original Xbox, I purchased this console kind of on a whim, I wanted to buy a mountain dew and I ended up seeing this and buying it instead because I decided to wait the 2 years until I am in the US so I don't have to pay somewhere around $175 to import one (That's shipping plus GST and other random taxes) , I found this console for sale much cheaper than the other ones for sale, I am so thankful I did, Ever since I received it I have done some tasteful upgrades, First it is now TSOP flashed, I personally think flashing these consoles is a good thing as it makes preserving the console easier and also I don't ever plan on selling my consoles so I don't care if it affects value (Which I am pretty sure it doesn't). I have alot of access to Xbox hardware since I sell a lot of Xbox's so I upgraded the DVD drive in the console to a Hitachi drive (from the original Thompson). I have a 2TB to install in it so I can rip my games to it. Believe it or not, The mfg date is in 2004 but it has got a 1.0 motherboard. My 3 crystals, Which seems a bit excessive but I actually have an explanation for, One of them (The one up front) is a Crystal Limited Edition, Which I paid the same price as any normal crystal for, The 2 up back are normal crystals, One is a 1.4 which is TSOP flashed with iND 5.3k and has a 160GB HDD I stole from my PowerMac G4 and the 2nd is a 1.6 ModChipped console, The 1.6 is to go to my girlfriend when we move in together after I finish my Diploma, The 1.4 was a console that I restored, I got it completely rusted out with busted cap's but I got my hands on new RF shielding and replaced them caps and now she works and ofc being an Australian I need the Australian Xbox (Crystal LE) . My Debug Kit, I have always wanted one of these consoles, MVG made me want one so you best believe when I got my chance for a decent deal (In Australia for one) I got it, I forked out somewhere around $350USD for this console, It was my first expensive collectable xbox, Luckily for me some Aussie bloke owned it and was selling it, I don't need to go over the differences cause you all probably know them, Its my favourite console, Now I think the best looking is the DoA but this is my favourite console out of all the ones I own. Its has DoAXBV on it so I really need to find my IDE HDD adaptor so I can dump the contents and compare them but I believe it may be a retail copy since the last owner said he replaced the HDD, Also funny memory with this one, the seller chucked it in one big Aus Post box put some bubble wrap on top and put another box on top and tapped it over but hey it came in one piece so I can't complain. My Skeleton Black consoles, Unlike the crystal's I don't have a good reason for owning 2, I just saw 2 for good deals (Really one was a steal and one was meh), I think they look amazing, When I move however one will be going to my brother, I wanted to own 2 but my brother really wants one but he can't afford one right now, So I've told him I will give him a steal on one when I move, Bottom one is flashed with iND 5.3k and I upgraded the DVD drive to a Philips, They are both 1.0. My Halo Special Edition, This console probably means the most to me, Since it was the first one, It was the one to start it all, Me and my brother got ours at the same time, A mate gave him one for free and I paid $200AUD for mine (Look at eBay prices now, Pretty good deal if you ask me), The controller on the console didn't come with it, I brought that controller myself, The console has a WD 500GB SATA Drive in it to hold my games, The Motherboard is a 1.2, It is TSOP flashed, It has a x2 BIOS on it that pretty much doesn't let you do anything haha (Probably a very early one, The original owner lifted both pads for enabling write on the TOSP, I have been planning to just run a jumper wire but I have been busy. My Chinese version of Mech Assault, I am a simple man, I collect Original Xbox consoles and that's it, I own around 70 games but they are just games I have got along the way (I own my favourites ofc , This is the first very rare game I went looking for, Lucky me I found the game for sale on Yahoo Auctions and brought it through Sendico (Not a bad service just expect to pay when it comes to shipping) Obvs I have talked about TSOPing NTSC-J Consoles on this post and this is how, I understand swapping the HDD to a PC during error screens and modchips etc but I wanted the game, I just want a reliable way to mod NTSC-J consoles, Yes this game works, I have softmodded 2 NTSC-J consoles no problem with this game, I payed an arm and a leg for the game but I think its worth it. I also own maybe 7 black original xbox's but they will be sold soon so they aren't really a part of my collection and I think everyone here has a seen a black original xbox, The only console I would say I am after right now is a mountain dew but as I said earlier I am in no rush to get one, As for how these consoles get stored, I have a shelf in my room with the Crystals but the rest are stacked on my desk next to me, I play all of my consoles (Expect the Debug Kit haha). If you have any question's I don't mind answering them although I am not big on the how much did you pay for this etc just because I hate feeling like I am fLeXing my consoles haha, I don't know if listing my Instagram is against the rules here so I won't but umm its in every picture hahaha, I watermark my pictures so they don't get stolen by other people since I know all about that on Instagram. Also big thanks to thePiratePimp for being the first person to follow me on Instagram and now twitter and for reminding me to post here and stop being a damm lurker hahaha, Also yes these pictures were taken in my mother's garden before anyone mentions it .

Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive around 5 Canadian dollars. You're also going to need some sort of a donor Xbox RCA wires or component wires in order to pull this off. There is 11 connections total five of which are ground I do not suggest not adding all the ground cuz could cause interference. Had pretty good luck I made to both of them are crystal clear with no interference. I tested on version 1.0 as well as version 1.4 turned out very good. I tried to look up and down online for some sort of schematic nothing appeared. There was one picture that was in Spanish but it was misleading I tried to look into it to find out who the original inventor was found the person at XB Classics a Brazilian site. After conversating with him he told me that he had better pictures but he would not share. Then I noticed a site that they has linked where they were selling these to the equivalent of 40 US dollars a piece so that is the reason the images that they uploaded are just there to confuse people. So that they cannot make it. Does not include audio left or right. And apparently La stands for 5 V? Don't ask me but that's what the guy told me makes no sense at all. I spent two days getting the wiring correct. I documented everything and put it on a YouTube video (link2come) was trying to figure out the best way to make this readily available for everybody in the world any Xbox Enthusiast should have a low cost HDMI adapter solution available to them this is where these schematics come in. Again I didn't notice any interference at all. Just a little bit in the Bios when only running 480 but there's not much you can do unless you re Flash the BIOS to force. I've noticed people in the group posting pictures not even having soldering skills and getting very good results from this method. In theory you can use this exact same adapter in order to have an internal HDMI solution. These images are water marked because these are going to be the only good images that are online and I seen the way XB classic does their water mark and it really bugs me that they did that so I wanted to make sure that everyone knows where it came from. That being said I'm Mister James Reid really helped me out with this he volunteered his services in order to take my hard copy drawings that were on paper and make it look something presentable. Which he did and he did a great job thank you very much James I did in fact alter the images to have the watermark across them. Sorry about that but I figured since I put in the work I deserve to have my name on it. If you have any questions please do not hesitate I do not check this site every day but I do come in from time to time. Thanks again and I hope people online can use this receive money from the big corporations like pounds and hyperkin charging ridiculous amounts of money for something so cheap... I've also got a lot of questions recently about people asking if this is any better than component. It uses the component wires in order to transfer the signal into HDMI. I'm not too technical with that end but when looking up the chip number on the actual board for the Wii to HDMI adapter I did notice in there schematics and their breakdown for the actual board they did mention that the video board that does the decoding actually does video on hand splint what kind of video enhancement I have no idea. But it should be an enhancement over component if they are speaking the truth. Anyway gentleman without further delay here are the schematics. I hope this hope somebody somewhere. Thank you very much Frank

There was recently a person on reddit who uploaded an Xbox game trailer DVD, it had high-quality video of different trailers, and I was wondering where I can get more of this sort of content. There are plenty of Youtube videos but they usually suffer from bad quality, so I’m wondering where I should be looking for the raw unaltered stuff.

Hello i wanted to repaint my original Xbox system because it has deep scratches on it. The one sticker on the bottom that is in Gray that says Xbox Video Game System i tried to remove and not damage because of the screw under it. However i could not save it. I was wondering if anyone has stickers for it. Or make any OEM stickers that will work Where can i find one at? Joseph

Hi everyone, I have a tsoped original xbox ver. 1.1 motherboard, clock capacitor removed, and running indi-bios. In rare occasions, when I turn on the console..I get a flashing green light with no image nor sound on screen. What can the green flashing light code mean? I tried unplugging the console from power strip, pressing/holding power button for 30sec. and when I re-connect the console and turn it on..I still get a flashing green light. But usually the console turns on fine. I'm not sure if it's a bad ribbon cable, or a bad sata adapter. I do know I have a foxcom IDE ribbon cable, and I do have a good quality sata adapter. The capacitors on power supply and motherboard look fine, they are not bloated, nor leaking. (capacitors look new) Thanks in advance

Hi! I have Xbox original v1.0. component cable I made Tsop and it work greate. I hope to make ram upgreade, but first i write XBlast OS on my bios. after rebut I donot see start console. XBlast OS in ThuHexen 2021 256kb Maybe it work only with composite cable? can i flash the bios with programmer ? it is posible ?

Hello everyone! I want to perform RAM upgrade on my Xbox but I don't know which RAM I should buy. Here is the picture of the RAM from my Xbox: SAMSUNG K4D263238F-QC50 So my question is which RAM should I buy? I found a couple of RAM chips on ebay and AliExpress but I don't know are they going to work on my Xbox. Here is the list: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32890729020.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.7efb2e0eCU8Qyr https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-Samsung-K4D263238M-QC50-128M-DDR-SDRAM-1PCS-NEW/123866715285 And, thanks in advance!

I got original xbox with intentions to only use working dvd drive to swap for parts but up found the existing hdd looked damaged as original owner said xbox was making arching noises. I figured to see if I can get the xbox going again. The machine powers on and shuts off at 1:15(s) that is with a working hdd. I swapped the power supply from a working machine and same thing. The dvd drive does work on a working machine. I relocked the hdd from another machine to this one the hdd was softmodded didn't work. I then reformatted with stock C and E files relocked hdd didn't work. The original xbox powers on automatically when plugged in. The original xbox has a Xecuter 2.6 mod chip. I ran the setup without modchip installed, with modchip turned off and with modchip on - no improvements. Any suggestions as what to do next? What to test for? When on stock dashboard I could not load a disc properly. When on softmod dashboard disc would not load properly. Not sure if there is a ide cable issue? Not sure if the hdd is setup correctly for given bios? Not sure if bios is corrupt. Dvd drive - works Power Supply - works Replaced Hdd Motherboard ? Modchip ?

Hi - having gotten the xbox original bug recently I have acquired a few original xbox consoles from friends and colleagues. I have a 1.0 that has a fan on the GPU so it's pretty noisey. I have a 1.6 and that can't be Tspoped and I don't have the skills required to add a chip. Today, a colleague gave me an xbox 1.1 - I opened it and checked to see if there was a fan on the GPU and there isn't - which is good in terms of noise. This also means that I can TSOP the 1.1. I have 3 or 4 more lying around in my attic that I collected over the years at car boot sales (mainly to get the games that came with them in bundle packs) - is there a particular model that I should look out for like the 1.1 seems to have the best of everything for me right now or am I wrong? Which version do you think is the best and why? Thanks in advance.

If anyone needs original xbox cases hit me up just pay shipping they are missing faceplates but clean top and bottom.

I have a Jet Set Radio Future save that I have played around 25 hours in that I would like to be able to play on my console, but I haven't been able to figure out how to resign the save. The save has an "error reading JSRF save data" and doesn't let me use my save. The save originated in Cxbx-R and it won't allow me to move the save to or from the console without this error occurring. Not sure how to proceed from here, and would be grateful if anyone wanted to help me out. I have attached the save if that can help, thanks for your time. 5345000a.zip

Selling this beauty. Only 4 consoles were ever made. I’m looking for offers really. Anything over 1000£ + would be considered. Will ship anywhere in the world, But you pay for that cost. Is usualy 69 £ tracked. Have a great one!

Hi! Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there. To sum up the current situation: -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X. -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts). - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image: There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each. -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances. -Now, the stangest thing: if I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage). So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas? Thank you for help

Xbox Original Green Limited Edition for sale, good condition and fully working but has been opened at some point as seals are broken. Completely stock nothing modified. Comes with one green controller and power cable. Ive tried to show the inside metal shield in 2 of the photos as there is some slight rusting? I know there was only 5000 of these released in Europe so open to offers as not entirely sure what they are valued? £120 plus buyer pays postage which will be via DPD. UK Only.

Original xbox with Xecuter 3 fitted, good condition and fully working. Comes with the following: 500GB Sata Hard Drive IDE TO SATA Adapter Upgraded IDE Cable Custom Made Component Cable for HD 2 Duke Style Controllers XBMC Dash installed Power Cable £125 and buyer pays postage. Will be sent via DPD delivery. UK only.

My modest modification. 128MB Ram New Fan Open Xenium Chip with Ryzee119's XEnium Spi2par2019 To be continued...

It has literally been over 10 years since I've played it. One of the bootup screens says "Xecutor2" at the bottom, so that tells me that much at least. My main question is the three (3) dip switches on the front of the console. Someone else installed it for me, and I forget what each of them does. I think that the left-most one controls whether or not the modchip is active; you wanted to toggle that one off if you ever went onto XBox Live, I think. Can anyone help?