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I really don't want to do it, but I'm considering selling this immaculate console that I restored with a NOS LCD screen and 3d printed resin buttons. I loaded it with my image which has all games and roms on it. Also some good music. Would anybody be interested? Don't know what to sell it for...

128MB, Cerbios, 2tb drive based on the origins image with a few extra things. I would like 300.

I wanted more of a subtle lighting mod for this halo console. I used the extra fan header to power 3 LEDs. Left side was easy to see. I also placed one in the middle to have a subtle glow from the front. The right side was tricky, because of the downward facing CPU air baffle on the underside of the HDD tray. So I put the LED on the very edge of the motherboard and pointed diagonally up and at the underside of the newly chromed HDD tray. Had to point it at an angle under that smaller opening in the bottom of the vane. That gave me the light output I wanted out the vent and the front bottom of the case is now (more) symmetrically lit. I am hesitant to show the wiring because I'm not too proud of it. As long as the light I want is there, who cares? And yes, I know there's overspray. Good thing nobody will ever see it. Lol. My controller port LED mods are getting much better and neater.

So I was working on my Halo Edition 1.4 board and was trying to test my XBlast from @Dtomcat18 so I could make sure for my own diagnostic peace of mind that it wasn't the problem. I must have reflowed my pin header soldering 5 times. I didn't think it was the issue... I put it in my black coma console (that I got my 1st Halo console's 1.6 board from, but now contained the 1.4 that was in... One of my Halo consoles. I don't remember which.) Coma board was a 1.4. Soldered the TSOP in 5 minutes. Used the chip's D0. Light glowed green on the first try. I was like, okay the chip is good. However it was still booting one time out of ten (usually after being plugged into mains) like a typical bitch-ass coma board, and when it did, it was booting to the stock bios. So I was like, "Okay, this chip is getting power, but the LPC is not being hit up for a bios." So I decided to try to ground D0. BAM. Booted to XBlastOS... Repeatedly. The coma was gone! ...

This is my worklog. I'll post pics and thoughts! Why am I sharing this? Because I can! Modding the other 1.4 halo console tonight with an XBlast Lite from Tomcat. I don't have to share such a routine procedure, but I feel like doing so. I should celebrate: I will finally start receiving the income I've been waiting for and I'll have all the time I want to learn new skills and get better at the things I've always wanted to learn. I will also be able to invest in consoles and get a little bit of everything and try to get some broad experience with all there is available. Oh and I bought a shitload of pinnheaders. I can mod like, 60 Xboxes now. I'm unsure of what to do for sure with this console. I don't know whether to keep the chip in, or just use it to flash the TSOP so I can sell the console. But it will have another 2tb origins drive in it, just like my X3 does. I have some shit to buy... I'll start another thread about it. Anyway! Oh and I'll try to use this chip to revive my black coma console.

So, I can't download anything until 15 posts, so I have a question. I think my v1.0 ide hard drive is dying...I was playing dance dance and the system became very slow and sluggish to dance pad presses. (The pad worked fine on the ps2) I did open up the xbox console for the first time, cleaned up the board, chopped out the clock capacitor (a very small amount of leakage), applied new thermal paste to the chips. The fans seemed like they were functioning fine. But..... I'm curious about the hard drive. Can I just clone the hard drive to a new hard drive and call it a day? Must I hard or soft mod the system before putting in a new hard drive?

I've a Xbox with 1.4 board, softmodded with Rocky5's Xbox Softmodding Tool. It doesn't have the clock capacitor anymore. The console was working for a while until for some moment the power button doesn't respond to turn on the console and needed to use the eject button for it. And it automatically boot up when you shut it down in software or when the power cord was plugged out and back in. But all this only happen when the console is warm (=when played games for a while). If it's cold, the power button works fine. I thought it was the trace corrosion mentioned on the forum, but I took the board out to have a look on it and the traces seem to look fine, no corrosion. After I put it back together the problem still exist and even getting worse: when it's cold everything works fine, but after playing a game for about 30min it will shutdown itself and the power button problem returns. And when restarted with the eject button, sometimes it keeps working for some minutes but most of the time it shuts down after some seconds, just before or right after the dashboard is loaded. But if I let is rest for some hours, everything will get back working for some (short) time. What can be the cause of these "trace corrosion"-like symptoms, but only when the console is warm/played some games?

Hi all, I've recently performed a rewrite of the TSOP (EVO M8+) on my PAL console, using the Hexen CD but i am unable to run backups. I've tried the following scenarios Game tested: Psychonauts PAL Original DVD OK DVD2XBOX OK FTP or Burned DVD NOK (gets booted back to unleashX) Original and iso are from the same game to eliminate other variables (ISO is also PAL) but it doesn't boot. Any guesses of what might be wrong? I'm more concerned about not being able to FTP as i wan't to remove dependencies from the hardware that can fail overtime more easily.. Setup that this was tested at: XBOX 1.0 TSOP EVOX M8+ Internal drive: Tested with IDE to SD card, and original HDD

I am trying to help out a friend of mine that has a genuine xBox Debug console. Apparently he tried to upgrade the hard drive, but inadvertently used an older XDK boot disc to format the new drive. At that point, his flubber animation would freeze and the box was useless. Even putting the original HDD back in did not fix it. We assumed that the TSOP had been corrupted. A couple of other things to note were that if I had the DVD and HDD both unplugged, the boot sequence would complete to the xBox logo but no errors or any other information would appear. Additionally, using the eject button does not actually eject the disc tray, the green LEDs just flash as if it was actually doing something. Where I am at now is I have created a Raspberry Pi PiPROM setup and tried to read the TSOP. The initial image file was 1mb in size, but when I tried to read it on my PC, it was just corrupted data. Since then I have tried to erase and flash different debug bin files. Oftentimes the flash says successful, but when I tried to read the TSOP back to a file, it is only 4k in size. Other TSOP images I have tried just fail to flash at all. What I have found is that If I do an erase, I can actually get the box to boot up off the of an XDK disc and it successfully formats the HDD and copies files over. However, once it completes, I am left with a black screen on boot up. The only thing I can then do is erase the TSOP again to get it to show the boot animation and boot off the XDK disc again. It just seems that while I am able to erase the TSOP, nothing is allowing me to actually write to it. Could the chip be corrupt or is there something else I am completely missing? It has been years since I modded my own xBox, and I have been trying to re-learn and read as much as possible. However, I am stumped at this point and would appreciate any and all help. Thanks for reading!

Hello Friends I have been looking for this for a while. I know the emulators have lists but a list that has: Works extracted on HDD Only runs on ISO only due to file path length and some other reason... Doesn't work, Disc only Thanks in advance

Hey Guys, I got a list of stuff Odd and Ends here that needs to go. Xbox, Dreamcast, GameCube stuff. I only have a limited supply of it. Once its gone its gone for good. I accept PayPal, please direct message me if you want to buy something and ill give you a shipping rate based on your address, super easy. Used Debug Shelled, upgraded 128mb Ram v1.0 Xbox -$350CAD Original Xbox Debug Kit Shell. Motherboard Rev. 1.0. 128mb ram upgraded board (Not Original Debug Board). Delta 1.0 NTSC PSU. TSOP Ind-Bios. Thompson DVD drive. 8gb stock hard drive. Software Details: Original Microsoft Dashboard Commentary: Missing its original Debug hardware (but can be converted with the right knowledge with current parts) The Motherboard used in this console is in immaculate condition. Clock cap was removed and CPU caps replaced. Original 1.0 fan heat sink was removed and replaced with a 1.1/1.6 heat sink. CPU and GPU was re-pasted. Some scrapes to the bottom of the shell and small scratches and one small stress crack on top shell. Rubber Feet Missing. [Added my own custom rubber feet]. Shielding Intact. New IcedCube Gamecube Shell, Metallic Blue -$300CAD Details: Full GameCube Shell Replacement Never been mounted or used. Brand New In-Box Condition (other than taking it out for Photos). Hard to Find IcedCube Shells. Comes with all Stickers and parts. Perfect Combo with Qoob Pro or Viper. New/Opened SEGA DreamCast GDEMU Pro v5.56 [Black] + SD Extender -$80CAD GDEMU PRO Optical Drive Simulation Board for SEGA Dreamcast DC VA1 SD Extension GDEMU is a SD card based replacement for the optical drive in Dreamcast console. GD-ROM / CD-ROM drives inevitably wear out and fail – as do all mechanical devices – and since the console is no longer being manufactured it’s nearly impossible to source spare parts. This project was meant to provide a “once and for all” solution, since it doesn’t have any moving parts. Features Replace your faulty GDROM Drive with a Solid State Optical Drive Emulation Board. Easy to install, the original optical drive seat can be removed and replaced with GDEMU, no welding, no modification to the machine board. Only suitable for VA1 motherboard DC Game machine, otherwise will damage GDEMU and do not plug in or pull with electricity 100% compatible with game, perfect running original GDI image, and compatible with CDI image. Note: please don't upgrade the firmware, it is the latest firmware version, and it will be permanently bricked if you upgrade the firmware. Package Contents 1 x GDEMU PRO Optical Drive Board 1 x SD Card Extension Cable New Sick Mods Xerc CME Bundle [OG Xbox] -$60CAD Quanity Left: 2 Install Tutorial: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1295-n163lph03n1xs-xerc-cme-case-modders-edition-installation/ Installation Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrbh8Phqy3s Preview Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8XS_frnGgI&t=7s Features Power Console On and Off via Xbox remote. Eject or close DVD tray on the fly with remote. Audio LED pulsation, LED's pulse to the sound of your Xbox. Remote configuration, setup and configure the buttons the way you want. LED chaser Mode, toggle through modes changes the LED chase patterns with remote. Speed up or Slow down led sequence. SmartXX OS boot Support Connects to MS DVD Dongle internally for menu browsing with remote (Perfect for XBMC media) N64 Freaks Xerc 2XE [OG Xbox] Used - $20CAD/ New -$25CAD New Quantity 3 Left Used Quantity: 4 Left The XERC 2 XE is a small device which allows you to turn your Xbox on and off with your remote control. You can also eject and emulate long and short power presses. The XERC can be configured to work with many different remotes, and you can change the button setup at any time without opening your Xbox. It also includes a bonus LED Fader feature on the status light. The IR Receiver is included. Features Pulse fading Xbox Eject/PowerLED Power Console On and Off via Xbox remote. Eject or close DVD tray on the fly with remote. Remote configuration, setup and configure the buttons the way you want. SmartXX OS boot Support Connects to MS DVD Dongle internally for menu browsing with remote (Perfect for XBMC media) New PulseVU 2X [OG Xbox] - $25CAD Quantity: 2 Left This device pulses any LEDs you connect to it with the beat of the music coming from your console. It can also has all the features of the SICKmods Fader and works on the original "Fat" Xbox360's Ring-of-Light. This device works with up to 150+ LEDs. 17 different modes allow you to set your LEDs to the VU mode, fader, dim, solid on, off, or any combination of those. Change modes easily by using an existing button on your console, rather than opening your console each time or installing another switch. A Quick Disable feature lets you quickly turn off your LEDs and then quickly turn them back on at a later time. This works best on 1.6 revision Xbox motherboards due to their standby power always being active. Face Plate LED Bars [OG Xbox]Colors: [Blue Black Green] - $10CAD Blue quantity: 11 Black quantity: 8 Green quantity: 10 This device is used inside the OG Xbox's front face plate to allow under glow in front of the Xbox. Soldering is required to install up to 11 LEDs per bar with Resistors in Series or Parallel. Bars will need to be rigged up to a 5V source coming from the Xbox. Two Bars = 1 Set/1 Xbox for $10 CAD. Comes in Blue Black or Green PCBs. 2TB SATA Hard Drive [OG Xbox] Lineberry Build - $250 2 Terrabyte filled Xbox Hard Drive Ready to go into an Original Xbox with a IDE to SATA adapter [Not Included] Xbox drive Includes a full library of Xbox Games, Homebrew, Emulators & roms, Dynamically setup by LineBerry XBMC4Gamers Dashboard. Note: Drive is Unlocked and will need a modchip or Tsop to use. Please Message me for Inquires N163LPH03N1X

I thought that all of the original Xbox forums online were all gone/dead. It's great to see that there are still active ones to be found! For my first post I wanted to share one of my first Xbox consoles I modded. Its nothing special, just something designed to be used at events where hundreds gather where I wont be afraid to have any number of random visitors using it. The Xbox itself is simply softmodded and it has been reworked to use a 2.5" SATA HDD. From the 120gb it now houses coinops and a number of modded Halo, Timesplitter and Battlefront games. The idea is a very multiplayer friendly console that is intuitive to use. While it has an XBMC dash, it boots directly into coinops so any number of people can use it without having to ask what to do. Before I upgraded the HDD I took a snap of the original guts while I was working on the console. The HDD is sitting on a spacer above the motherboard to allow for increased airflow, done after the capacitors were rewired and replaced. For fans I am using a Sunon for exhaust and the famous Iceberq 4 for the chipset. The PSU has been wired externally similar to a laptop. While I could have used a picopsu, this defeats the purpose of the console being cheap, easy and worry free with strangers using it. It's nothing fancy. But it looks great, its robust, it doesn't overheat after 12+ hour sessions, I have very little money invested in it and I built it so I wouldn't be afraid of strangers mashing on it.

Title, but searching for one in good shape at a reasonable price. I'm in Western NY.

Xbox Original Modded Console. Custom Painted with Case Window and LEDs. Controller Custom Painted. RGB AV Cable. Power Cord. $160 USA Shipped Cashapp or PayPal goods and services.

I have a wierd issue with one of my Xbox consoles. It's a 1.6 softmod, I purchased it pre-modded and it came with 'Slayer's custom' softmod installed. Recently I've been having an issue with a couple of PAL games running too fast in NTSC mode, Crash Bandicoot: The Wrath of Cortex and Timesplitters 2. I've never has this problem with these games before, so I tried changing the video from NTSC 480p to PAL 480i but the console seems to be stuck in 480p mode, even though in video settings it's unticked. If I plug in an RGB SCART cable this does force the console to output at 480i and the games no longer run fast, but when I plug my component cable back in the console remains stuck in 480p. Does anyone know what might be causing this? I'm wondering if I should reinstall the soft mod, I have Rocky5 softmod disc burned but i'm not sure if this would mess things up as a different softmod is already installed?

I'm trying to FTP a GBA romset to my Xbox but over half of the files wont transfer with Filezilla, I get the error message saying the file names are too long. Would I be able to burn the rom files to a DVD disc and transfer them to the console that way, or is there another solution outside of manually shortening 1000+ file names?

XCM Consoles XCM Pure White Parts List Xecuter 3 Purple Mod chip Xecuter 3 Halo Green Pro switch V1.0 Motherboard (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM Delta Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 500 GB HDD White Controller Port LED's White/Red Power/Eject LED XCM Chrome Silver Parts List Xecuter 3 Purple Mod chip V1.0 Motherboard (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM Foxlink Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 500 GB HDD Red Controller Port LED's White/Red Power/Eject LED XCM Crystal Clear Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Crystal Pro Switch V1.6 Motherboard (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM Delta Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 500 GB HDD RGB Controller Port LED's RGB Power/Eject LED RGB Under Glow LED Bars XCM Sapphire Blue Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip V1.6 Motherboard (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM Delta Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 500 GB HDD Blue Controller Port LED's Blue/Red Power/Eject LED Blue Under Glow LED Bars XCM Ruby Red Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Black Pro Switch V1.2 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (N64 Freak) 1.4ghz/128mb RAM + Speed Switch Adapter PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (N64 Freak) + MS DVD Dongle (Menu + On/Off Remote Control) Fox Link Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 2 TB HDD Red Controller Port LED's Red/White Power/Eject LED Red Under Glow LED Bars Red LED Jewel Xecuter Consoles Skeleton Black Limited Edition Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Black Control Panel V1.2 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (N64 Freak) 1.4ghz/128mb RAM + Speed Switch Adapter PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (N64 Freak) (On/Off Remote Control) Fox Link Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 2 TB HDD White Controller Port LED's White/Red Power/Eject LED White LED Jewel Crystal Clear Limited Edition Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Crystal Clear Control Panel V1.2 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (N64 Freak) 1.4ghz/128mb RAM + Speed Switch Adapter PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (N64 Freak) (On/Off Remote Control) Delta Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 2 TB HDD RGB Controller Port LED's RGB Power/Eject LED RGB LED Jewel Debug Green Special Edition Parts List (Electronic Arts Debug Shell) Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Crystal Green Control Panel V1.2 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (N64 Freak) 1.4ghz/128mb RAM + Speed Switch Adapter PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (N64 Freak) (On/Off Remote Control) Delta Link Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 2 TB HDD Green Controller Port LED's Green/Red Power/Eject LED Green LED Jewel Dead or Alive Ultimate Limited Edition Parts List Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Crystal Blue Control Panel V1.1 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (N64 Freak) 1.4ghz/128mb RAM + Speed Switch Adapter PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (N64 Freak) (On/Off Remote Control) Minebea Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive 2 TB HDD Blue Controller Port LED's Blue/White Power/Eject LED Blue LED Jewel Mountain Dew Limited Edition Parts List V1.2 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM Fox Link Power Supply Samsung DVD Drive 500 GB HDD Green Controller Port LED's Green/White Power/Eject LED Green Under Glow LED Bars Cyclone Red/Blue GPU Heatsink Asian Halo 2 Limited Edition Parts List (Frankenstein) Xecuter 3 CE Red/White Mod chip Xecuter 3 Black Control Panel V1.0 Motherboard + Xecuter 2 TSOP (Stock) 733mhz/64mb RAM PulseVU 2X Microchip (Audio LED Pulsation) Xerc 2 XE Microchip (Floydthebarber) + MS DVD Dongle (Menu + On/Off Remote Control) Fox Link Power Supply Hitachi LG DVD Drive x2 IceBerq 4 Pro LED Red/Blue Heatsinks GPU/CPU 5 Xtreme Extender + x4 Stock HDD (8 GB) 500 GB HDD Blue Controller Port LED's Blue/Red Power/Eject LED Blue LED Jewel Blue Under Glow LED Bars Xbox Controllers Top Row: Xtreme Enterprises Ruby Red NTSC-J ABXY LED Modded Buttons Transparent Red Thumb Sticks Transparent Red D-Pad 8 Red LED's Internally Installed Skeleton Black Limited edition NTSC-J ABXY LED Modded Buttons Transparent Smoke Thumb Sticks Transparent Smoke D-Pad 8 White LED's Internally Installed Halo Green Limited edition NTSC-J ABXY LED Modded Buttons Transparent Green Thumb Sticks Transparent Green D-Pad 8 Green LED's Internally Installed Bottom Row: Crystal Clear Limited edition NTSC-J ABXY LED Modded Buttons Transparent Clear Thumb Sticks Pink/White Thumb Stick LED Boards Transparent Clear D-Pad 8 RGB LED's Internally Installed Halo 2 Blue Limited edition (Black Gem) NTSC-J ABXY LED Modded Buttons Transparent Blue Thumb Sticks Blue/Red Thumb Stick LED Boards Transparent Blue D-Pad 8 Blue LED's Internally Installed Sparkling Grey Controllers (Japan Only) Stock (Untouched)

Selling this beauty. Only 4 consoles were ever made. I’m looking for offers really. Anything over 1000£ + would be considered. Will ship anywhere in the world, But you pay for that cost. Is usualy 69 £ tracked. Have a great one!

Really trying to track down the japanese blue. No luck thus far

I have recently discovered the stuff you can do with a wii2hdmi adapter, where you can chuck an xbox video connector to the back of it, and have the xbox og output over HDMI. I have just completed this mod, and found it simple enough. The xbox connector itself is however a bit fidly. I think there would be enough room under the DVD drive to mount a board and get hdmi output directly out of the back of the console, which would be alot cleaner in style and easier to use (without having a huge dongle sticking out of the back of the console). Now in order to get video signals, I figured I would just solder to the bottom of the motherboard where the video output connector is connected. I havnt had much play with this connector yet, and had planned to attempt to map it out to the connector., Does anyone have this already, which would make my life a little easier. I am also mindful of the fact that the wires inside the Faraday cage of the xbox would be liable to interference, it is part of my plan to perhaps use cat6 or similar shielded cable between the connections. Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

^

Looking for help with my modded Xbox. I had this done by someone (can’t remember who) back in 2005/2006 and I haven’t started it up in over 5 years. I have tried a lot of button combos and it won’t boot up. It won’t even boot up in regular mode either. No matter what I do it turns on then Immediately shuts back off. It is a Halo edition with the X3 and control panel like the one pictured above. Any help would be appreciated. Also looking for recommendations for someone that could repair it if necessary. 7253D5C9-ED2A-4D4D-A5B4-E6A12DBFF7CE.mov

I purchased a second hand XBox from eBay. The console came with an Aladdin Advance mod-chip already installed. This chip looks different to other "Aladdin" chips in that it doesn't have the 12-pin female header. Where that socket is on other chips of this kind there is a unpolluted area labelled "FLASH". I don't think this console was ever used for anything else other than playing copied games, as it was running on the stock Dashboard, and still had the 8GB HDD installed. Even when the EvoX mode was initialised by holding the power button to turn on the chip, the console still booted to the stock Dashboard. To cut a long story short, I opened the console up to remove the clock capacitor, and give the console a general clean, and I accidental knocked off the wire going from L2 to the IDE socket, at the socket side. To be honest, the soldering was extremely bad, and looked like it had been done in a rush by someone who had very little idea of what they were doing. I promptly repaired the loosens wire, and as the soldering attaching the chip to the motherboard was a very bad job also, I decided to add some solder to the points to reinforce them a little. I personally don't like the 'quick-solder' pads much, but that's how this chip had been installed. And as I mentioned there is no header socket at all. However, on reassembling the console, it won't boot. Neither into EvoX mode or 'stock'. The way this chip was set up was to hold the power button to activate it. But that isn't working either. All that happens is the console powers on, then off, on again, and off a second time and when it powers on for the third time (all of this is automatically on it's own) the console doesn't display anything on screen (although I do hear a normal 'click' of the speakers when the power comes on) and the consoles LEDs are alternating red and green. Which, from what I read is a bad BIOS read. I don't understand why though, as I haven't done anything to the BIOS. I did load up Hexen 2018, and went into the flashing options, but I didn't actually do a flash, because I didn't know what the chip was at the time, I thought it best to see what I was going to flash to first. This also installed the EvolutonX Dashboard automatically, which did work okay at first. I really don't know what has happened, but I have now done some damage to the chip itself in trying to find some way of getting the console to boot. There is a surface mounted capacitor right next to the LPC labelled "C7D2", which I must have accidentally touched with the tip of my iron, as there is a little 'spike' of fresh solder on it. Is it plausible that I have damaged this capacitor, and that is what's causing the console to fail to boot? If so, can I bypass this capacitor, or replace it? As I said, with all of the soldering and desolating I have ruined most of the 'quick-solder' pads on the chip now. As such I have ordered an Aladdin XT PLUS2 from eBay, but it's coming from China, so it's not going to be here for a few weeks. But as the console doesn't boot at all, with or without the chip installed, I am wondering if a new chip would actually make a difference. Because I haven't mentioned it above; it's a 1.0 XBox. I have even tried completely removing the chip altogether, which is how the console is right now. Yet, it still refuses to do anything other than what I described above. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I really don't like the idea that I've killed the console. I could obtain another, sure, but I would like to try and repair this one if I can. I dislike giving up on things if there is still a chance I can fix it.

Hi guys hoping I can get some feedback before I do something I regret. Today I finally received a limited edition Panzer Dragoon Xbox console, however it has arrived looking very orange instead of white. Due to the fact of how rare these are getting, not to mention the expense of it, should I attempt to whiten it or leave it alone, also not sure if it would affect the detailing on top of the console? What do you think?

i pulled apart my 1.6, cleaned and repasted the the heat sinks, and cleaned and greased the dvd drive. i was cycling the dvd drive trying to get the tray to operate correctly when all of a sudden the system started having weird artifacting on the screen. i turned it off and un plugged it and then plugged it back in and it started frag'ing. what's going on?