Lina_Inverse_
-
Posts
70 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Store
Everything posted by Lina_Inverse_
-
Do xbox capacitors ever need to be reformed?
Lina_Inverse_ replied to alfredo2's topic in General Xbox Discussion
The Nichicon HM series near the heatsink on some revisions (I believe only 1.4 but that's all I've seen) fail as they can bulge and lose capacitance without power applied. I've had two consoles bulge, when I put them away, the capacitors were fine. It's only because they're a bad batch. On an LCR meter I believe all 3300uF caps read around 10-20uF which is very bad but ESR was within normal range. It prevented powering of the consoles whereas both were working fine before. It could be the warm environment I stored them in? Aside from that, I don't think there's much of an issue. I've got electrolytics that are much older (1970s) in equipment such as my main amplifier still working well within spec, or close enough that it's not an issue.- 20 replies
-
- 2
-
-
-
- xbox
- capacitors
- (and 3 more)
-
Why does this happen? (video flicker - games unplayable)
Lina_Inverse_ replied to xretrogamedevx's topic in Softmods
Have you tried Rocky5? https://github.com/chr0m/XBMC4Kids/tree/master/Mod Files/scripts/XBMC4Kids Extras/480p Game Loaders -
Update: I tried the comaconsole repair yet it still has the same issues, unless the BIOS chip is bad which it would need a modchip. I'll give that a go. If that does nothing, it may just be a board for parts. GPU/CPU get warm as they normally would.
-
Have you removed the D0 grounding point under the motherboard? D0 grounded without a chip causes the system to FRAG. I'd assume the same if the LFRAME trace has been cut.
-
It does have rust/patina all around the shield but nothing indicating any sort of spillage. It's a sticky substance only on the board. I'll give it a thorough clean and run the system again and report back. With the yellow box, it's a copper layer that darker spot.
-
I get no video or sound with the ODD/HDD disconnected, also the same when they're connected. I've checked the rails just now Blue: 3.3V White: 3.27 Brown: 3.28 Orange: 3.3 Red: 5.0V Yellow: 11.63 Within the 10% range but the 12V rail is a little low. Here's the board also.
-
I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?
-
Definitely a bad batch. Those 3300uf are the Nichicon HM series which were used in many computers from around 2002-2006 I believe. They all go bad yet others stay fine. I think it's still going bad. I've seen a few which have visible rot yet displayed no symptoms (I still trace repair them!), and one with no visible rot yet still developed the symptoms. See this guide: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/
-
The top left pin on this close up image has sunken in completely.
-
I know this for a fact. I had one die on me recently https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqdMb6xT8cI Does it happen during a game? Maybe try unplug and put back the video connector as it may be slightly loose.
-
Is it possible to test with it open? You could see what's going on or where the smell is coming from. Mainboards can't damage a PSU except in very exceptional circumstances. It's hard to say what went on in there other than it was under some stress for a while but, that could be just from years of use. I'm sure if you hooked that blown out capacitor in an ESR tester, it would read very high (should read no more than around 5 ohm if good.)
-
I tend to flow a small amount of new solder with my iron into the solder joint but keep the old solder there too.
-
Interesting. The capacitor installation looks fine. I'd start with gently applying pressure around the video connector left/right and up and down and see if you see any changes on screen. Then move the video connector around. Have a look inside the video port and the cable end (what goes into the Xbox) for anything unusual like a bent pin or dirt/dust. The Microsoft cables fray quite easily also.
-
Follow this As a last resort, you can remove the power supply at the same time as the motherboard so you don't need to unplug the connector. I too don't like the 1.0-1.1 Xbox revision power supplies due to the difficulty in removing them.
-
To me that image looks like a 1.0-1.1. Those power connectors are incredibly hard to get off. At times I feel like I was going to damage the motherboard. I try to hold the board very close to the power socket and pull (hard) the power connector on one end. From there it gets easier. On both of the supplies it looks like there's dry/cracked joints all around. Where you see a line, especially a ring forming somewhere around the joint (see second pic). Reflow whatever looks bad and we can go from there.
-
Regarding cheats/trainers https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/xored https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/evolutionx#wiki_trainers
-
It did help for me so I guess that's where the problem lies.
-
What you'll want to do is use another disc drive and mod your system so you can bypass the disc drive altogether. If you can't get another drive, you could adjust the laser intensity potentiometer, but that is only a short term option for either softmodding or modchipping your system. You will need a multimeter for adjusting the pot.
-
I'm not confident enough to remove the components and put them back on a good board. I do have a FRAGing board (1.2 or 1.3) that I will sacrifice if it has the same capacitors. I'll come back to this post in a while when I get to it.
-
I think you'll need a crossover cable or adapter. The adapters are around $5 (my local currency) from eBay.
-
I just checked the last component. The times C6T6 read anything it ranged from approximately 1500nF to 6700nF. Hardly an accurate reading. 90% of the time it didn't read anything. I guess that's because it's in circuit.
-
Hi, I checked C6V1 and C6v2 on a 1.1 Xbox. I measured 63 picofarads for each using my LCR-T4 component tester. The C6T6 I couldn't get any measurement for some reason. I'll go back and post here if I manage to sort it. I tested in circuit, chances are that testing in circuit will affect the outcome compared with testing components individually.
-
I tested the disc drive that wouldn't read. The console booted fine aside from not reading discs. It was definitely the mainboard causing the fault. I've since swapped the board from the weak laser one into the drive which had that unusual issue and all is well. Thank you!
-
Interesting. The console cannot find the disc drive as well as that issue with the lens actuator bobbing up and down frantically. I'll assume the drive is completely toast. Perhaps the lens (assuming that's still working) can be pulled and used in another Philips drive at least. I've got another one which has a weak laser.
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqdMb6xT8cI I've had this v1.1 console for a few years, it's been sitting in storage for 3 years. I decided to power it up to see if it's still running only to find I get this weird lens issue with an error code 11 on screen. I've also tried the disc drive on my main console, the same thing happens. Would anyone know why? I've got another GDR-8163B that's already been modified for use on the Xbox. I'll use it and modchip the system.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48