ChriZz

Yes, exactly that

Move the switch on the chip back and forth frequently and remove it from the LPC. Clean both with iso. You say the chip is flashing, so it's working. It just can't find the bios.

Correct. It is thermal adhesive and not thermal paste like in the PC area. This adhesive is not intended to be removed. In addition, the temperatures with this adhesive are more than good. The people who tear down the heatsinks to renew the "paste" often have problems... torn GPU/CPU or cracks in the transition to the solder balls. You can find enough pictures of destroyed boards on the internet. I have one here that has 3 broken contact points under the CPU. When it was cold it ran perfectly, but as soon as it warmed up strange errors started to happen. Finding this problem was beyond crappy I can tell you.

I think it's really cool what you've created in terms of software.

Hello everyone. For those out there who bought a cable from Hyperkin (Errors include flickering and stripes in the image) https://www.ebay.de/itm/224656844177?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338765356&toolid=20006&customid=DE_1249_2246568 44177.150559540510~ You don't have to throw it away, it gives a solution. The converter and the HDMI cable themselves are tip top. Only the cable from the Xbox to the converter is rubbish. The shielding of the individual cables is simply missing. Unsolder it and use an old VGA cable. Follow this topic: The picture will be perfect. I can't tell any difference to a normal original component cable.

What you have there looks like evox from the ogxbox dvd here from the forum. The boot animation is specially deactivated to speed up the boot. what you can do is download an evox and edit it with evtool. Or, what's even easier, download Cerbios and flash it. Then you put the corresponding “boot animations folder” on the HDD and you can easily change the animation with it.

Small addition, I have exactly the same mod chip here. I think it's better than Aladdin. In the picture on the left is the chip from a console from Evilbay and on the right is the one I built myself.

A normal cheapmod. When the ogxbox installer DVD starts (or another one), the chip in the console can be flashed directly. Ps your bios looks like cromwell I think.

I would go even further, remove the chip and flash the TSOP. After all, it's a 1.0 Xbox. You can put the chip aside. if a 1.6 is added.

Presumably to activate and deactivate the chip with the power button. Previously because of Xbox Live back then.

You need an ESR meter for this. This shows you the Value like capacity and vloss value. If you install new caps you have to take ones with low ESR, hope you are aware of that. Otherwise you will create a new error. Greetings

Translation confusion sorry

Yes, you can see it well, the ladder rails are through. I would repair it first and scrub it clean generously with isopropanol and a hard toothbrush. Unfortunately, the liquid from the supercap gets under the solder mask and is sometimes difficult to remove. Maybe it's gotten so bad for you over the years that the 2nd PCB layer has been damaged and therefore a short circuit occurs when exposed to heat.

As Marty said above, a decent picture might help. Otherwise we can all just guess riddles. What I would now suspect would be a leaky super capacitor. As soon as the console is turned on, it gets warm and this liquid causes a short circuit somewhere. Which goes faster and faster after you switch it on. Just as he describes it. I would now rule out overheating and thus the temperature sensor since he doesn't mention anything about high-speed fans?! Well let's see what arfows says.

Version 1.2 only has 3 capacitors and I remember that I was often able to measure a greatly increased value on these capacitors. Especially the capacitors with metal housing.

The clock capacitor has been removed and the traces under the circuit board are OK?

The track was torn off by the previous owner...the reset signal is sent over it. I scratched the track free and soldered it with Kynar wire. Console is working again.

As mentioned in the title. The xbox restarts 3 times and flashes green and red alternately the third time. The so-called ask. Which can mean anything. The console came from something like eBay and the seller wanted to throw it in the trash because he couldn't fix it. I bought it anyway because it's a crystal. I've been looking for a long time. No capacitors were broken and all voltages were correct. Then I noticed that the lpc was being fried quite badly. After removing the solder from the LPC, I measured it again and there was about 1.5 volts missing at pin 1...or it switched off again very quickly. The same thing happened before the mcpx on the 3.3 volt pad. Well, long story short. I remembered a post by kaos engeneer. On the LPC (pin4) where the 2 vias are, a reset signal is passed along. And it was precisely this track that was torn down by the previous owner. That's why the console couldn't start and switched off the above-mentioned voltages. I repaired this track and everything is back to normal. Maybe it will help someone. Attached is another picture

Very nice

Very interesting. There was probably so much excitement back then because the series spread was so large. Who knows.

Until now I've always had ones that showed several kiloohms. Something like 6.9kohm, so completely wrong. Unfortunately I can't say how exactly the tolerance should be there. The ones I installed showed exactly 33 ohms and the ones that weren't defective also showed this value, there is now no one that deviates by even 1 ohm. The DVD you are using is relatively scratch-free or is it an original? Oh and if all else fails you can also check the capacitors. I haven't had any defects yet, but of course it's still possible. Regarding the LED flashing... have you measured the 2 switches on the drive? The 2 switches are for drawer open or closed. I often measured problems there too. Another thing you can try is a new IDE cable. I have no idea why, but they often break. Hope this helps you first. May have nothing to do with your problem, but I once had an Xbox where the DVD drive, the HDD and the IDE cable were broken at the same time. Was a bit annoying. Greetings

Wasn't it the case that the power button had to be pressed for longer than a second to start Aladdin? Xbox then lights up orange.

https://xboxdevwiki.net/LPC_Debug_Port#LFRAME.23_reconnect That's why I ask. see link. This cheap mod where the SST 49LF020 is connected directly to the LPC requires the lframe signal, which is not available on the LPC in certain versions. I hope that's understandable and you know what I mean.

What exactly don't you understand?

One question, the lframe signal is required for a cheapmod. Is that right? Then this chip variant is only for 1.0-1.2 and 1.6. For the others you would have to use the mcpx sand slightly on the side to get to the via? Greetings