Magicaldave

So I was trying to inject the .cfg into a 5003.67 box. (Duh) This seemed to work but I noticed the .cfg loading delay was still in place. I figured this was because I had left a .cfg sitting on C:\ But I deleted the .cfg file, and afterward the default IND intro played and the system sat on the IND-BIOS X Screen indefinitely. What gives? There were no errors when injecting in Windows. It just doesn't seem to have done anything except prevent an error screen from presenting.

You can actually install XBMC origins before you Xbox is hardmodded. You just can’t make much use of it until you do so, as the hard drive will be unlocked and you won’t be able to use the unlocked drive until the chip is installed XBMC origins IS your front end, and also includes an entire games library to go with it. It’ll be a struggle just to find stuff that isn’t already there, so don’t worry too much about installing games. Instructions and source: https://www.arcadepunks.com/2tb-origins-original-xbox-fully-loaded-front-end/ The page includes a link to HDD raw copy tool, which you can run on your pc to dump the Origins image onto the drive. It’s gonna take a while. Install your modchip, once this is done you can drop in the hard drive and roll. Make sure you use an 80-wire IDE cable. As for your second question I’m somewhat unclear on what you mean. If you are asking whether you can attach your hard drive to the Xbox’s USB (controller) ports and transfer stuff from there - no. Your HDD will not be usable and would be miserably so even if it were. You’d be far better off using FTP. If you’re asking whether you can attach the drive to your Pc, and then transfer content, yes. You’re familiar with installing PS2 games over WINHIIP, no? You will need a similar program here - either eXplorer360 or boXplorer. Personally I have had limited success in using these.

Normally i use: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor-inch/dp/B000I21Y28 I have had one of those go bad before. Never bought one of these myself but I am using one of these too: https://www.amazon.com/40-Pin-80-Wire-2-Drive-Ribbon-Manhattan/dp/B003IDF0JC Really, you might also want to call up whoever runs your local computer shop and see if they’re carrying any. Tend to be much cheaper and you get the same thing quicker. If you’re cloning in CHIMP you’ll survive without using the upgraded cable during the clone. Depending on the adapter you use and condition of your dvd drive - if you’re using one - you may get away without using one at all. It may also keep the console from booting at all.

Says it on the tin. I grabbed an English patched version of this game from archive.org tonight and can't put it down. The intro alone is the best 15 minutes I've played in a game in a long time. Since... Idunno, GoW 2018? This game is so much fun. Granted, it's been rereleased in proper English on modern consoles but it was made to be played on the OG. And feels great on a PS2 controller! Let it speak for itself: These guys are kinda goofy but I can't grab footage off my own consoles. Yet. Has anyone played this? Those of you that haven't are sorely missing out!!!

Hey man! Great to see new people around here as always. Please do feel free to ask questions and hang out, I and many other more knowledgeable people (than myself, not you :P) are always glad to help. Out of curiosity, why chip? I personally prefer to TSOP, especially the earlier revision consoles as I find modchips offer few benefits unless the console is dead or you just spend stupid amounts of cash on X3 based chips and consoles. Either way I hope you like the forum!

I’m not extensively familiar with emulating Ps1 on Xbox, but from my experience doing so on PC you most likely do have the right format. Either IMG or BIN/cue is the ideal format for Ps1 games. Bin/cue does tend to work better from my experience. Don’t try to smash them into .iso. If you are using a stock console this *may* be part of the problem as the Ps1 tends to be really rough on the Xbox’s hardware. Also, you might try this emu for you Ps1 needs: http://www.emuxtras.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=189&t=6561&start=150#p88063

Also: I’m relatively certain that when the console WAS functional UnleashX reported it as a 1.5. So what the hell’s the detection mechanism, then? Kernel + Video Encoder? It’s certainly not probing the LPC port to make that conclusion.

Like I mentioned in the other thread on this, I previously had no context for the rarity of a 1.5. Funnily enough even in the condition it’s in, the LPC clearly has the characteristics of a 1.4. I really want to know more about this though, because it seems that based on what you explained in C64’s thread it’s impossible for the LPC to have such characteristics AND have a fully programmed TSOP chip. So if the board has to satisfy an impossible set of conditions it’s no wonder one hasn’t been confirmed. We might as well say 1.5 Xboxes have 10GbE and 2080 TIs packed in. But if these conditions are impossible then how has anyone determined what the characteristics of a 1.5 ARE? I see your argument in that it’s likely just misuse of a meter in some fashion or another but I struggle even to wrap my head around that. And if there’s no 1.5, how is there a 1.6? One would expect that in that event that we just call them 1.5 and 1.5b and skip the designation nonsense if these are arbitrary. So M$ designed but did not produce a 1.5 board, maybe because the design couldn’t be produced? It makes more sense to me that we’re just not identifying them properly. But even that argument holds very little water after almost 20 years and the incredible amount of fact-finding that has been done. We’ve managed to track down everything from Hello Kitty Xboxes to that Orange Halo exclusive to that one filled with, uh, was it jelly beans? But in all that time and hunting nobody’s been able to accurately identify a standard console that was, in theory, intended for mass production to sit on store shelves. Totally believable.

The adapter/cable thing is definitely a mixed bag. I had one of those cheap adapter that worked for about a year with a 40-wire and then the console wouldn’t boot any more, and IGR never worked until we removed the DVD drive. People have said those cheap adapters have killed their drives on occasion, so be careful when installing one but if it boots now you’re *probably* fine. As far as the more expensive adapter, which did you buy? The one most commonly recommended is the StarTech IDE2SAT2. Never had any issues with these. The only difference you might really notice is that the cheap ones tend to initialize a bit slower so it might take a few more seconds to get to the dash. Also not sure if this is an option with X3 BIOS and the blue faceplate on your drive, but try swapping or removing your DVD drive when using the more expensive adapter. For the board, if you’ve already got a 1.6 I see little reason to switch. You can keep your clock cap and the rebuild work has already been done.

Welp. It started with a bad flash. I used the Winbond option in HeXen, I think I use EvoX M8+, and the thing immediately FRAG’ed after. So I thought, lacking a compatible modchip, I’d just swap the TSOP from a 1.1 that was long dead before I got it. This went great until I realized the chip I was trying to install had roughly twice or more pins than the original. So I tried to put the original one back. Then I lost a pad. Then I lost a couple more. At one point one of the traces from the pads started to lift, so I just got pissed and scraped them all off since an Aladdin was far less expensive than the epoxy I’d need to fix them. Pretty much left for dead since then as I’ve got more than enough systems to play around with. I also learned that day that a soldering iron is NOT the solution to all your problems, haha.

1) You won’t notice a difference. Put a Purple in there for all it matters (yes purples are a thing) but blacks are the mainstream drives. Resource: 2) Depends on what you want. I know nothing about this particular console but since it has XECUTER 3 printed on the LCD I’ll assume you have one and you can pretty much stick with that BIOS as I believe it’s the most feature packed. I do not know if IND-Bios works on those chips but it seems the next most likely contender as it’s got extensive customization options. Resource: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/bios/features 3) Again, depends on what you want. There’s little practical difference between each revision board, so, I’d go with pretty much anything except a 1.0 or 1.6 as you have to rebuild the LPC and 1.0 has that stupid loud GPU fan. But maybe you prefer a 1.6 because the clock caps are good. Or maybe you’re a crazy person and want the 1.0’s extra fan header to make it easier to install some custom liquid cooling. If you’re REALLY trying to build a perfect unit you may want to consider installing a board with RAM/CPU upgrades but this can hurt your game compatibility and your wallet. 4) Holy BALLS that is an incredible looking machine. Hats off to you, my friend.

It can vary a bit depending on exactly what the context is. I can promise you’ll spend more and get less life out of an IDE drive if you plan on using the console regularly. Between my IDE, 3.5inch, 2.5inch, and SSD drives, I can barely notice a difference between any save the painful grinding noise coming from the IDE. SSDs will occasionally perform better when reading lots of smaller files as the seek times are eliminated. I only ever notice this when navigating through the dash, but there are a small handful of games which will also see this benefit. Plus, SSDs are getting cheaper over time so depending on the size you can get one for a pretty decent price. The only clear-cut benefits of installing an SSD are power consumption and weight. tl;dr, pretty much anything works the same. I personally like having an SSD as it’s quieter, and I have more confidence in its overall lifespan. If you do go SSD, I’d suggest finding a way to live without a dvd drive because the weight imbalance feels really weird.

3.3 on 9 and GND on 2. Carry on.

Welp, I got something. Pics and more info here:

Well shit. I can't attach them. So here's a link instead: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0DGY8gBYit6d6

So I mentioned in another thread the existence of a 1.5 console and MAN did I get a response. I had no idea they were rare to the point of being nonexistent. Full disclosure: I bought this at Vintage Stock as a practice board and an attempted flash turned into no pads. I’m an amateur with poor equipment, what can i say? This is just to say that I busted the warranty stickers on this console myself. Here’s comparisons between this and a known 1.4. Seemed pretty late in the game to be a 1.4, hence my original conclusion. Please do make any corrections! EDIT: The console in question here is the one manufactured in 2004. The 2003 is a 1.4 for sure.

Yep. I can’t precisely recall offhand but all game saves are in E:/, I *think* in the UDATA folder. Watch a softmod tutorial like MrMario’s and you should see the exploit saves go into the flash drive on either TDATA or UDATA.

Can confirm same issue on my console with unpatched .Xbe and either speed switch toggle.

What you say makes sense but my lying eyes have to argue the point. Maybe we should start a new thread on this, but, I’m pretty confident I actually have a 1.5. I have two functional 1.4 units with some clear, if subtle, differences on the board’s design. Problem is some dickhead scraped ALL the pads off the TSOP chip’s place on the board and all my solder gear is MIA. But I’d be glad to post comparison photos and go deeper into it.

Not only that, get some good flux. I get mine from Rossmann Repair Group. You won’t need a lot but it’ll make your life very much easier.

Damn. I tried to test this for you but I suddenly realized I don’t have a copy

I have a purely personal preference for the Phillips drives. Although I have a weird issue with one where whatever console it’s attached to won’t boot and I hear sometimes fuses in then blow. However, regardless of how well they seem to be running all these DVD drives are on their last legs. If you’re not concerned about spending a lot more time doing it, you can rip, extract, and FTP the games onto your Xbox from a pc or Mac.

Glad to see new blood running around the scene! It’s kind of a personal thing. But here’s how I rank them; 1.0 being the best. That GPU fan is pretty noisy, but can actually be replaced and the additional onboard fan header allows you to get pretty creative since, as you’ve seen, it’s not really necessary. Liquid cooling, extra fans, LEDs, Et cetera can all get jammed in there pretty easy. The 1.0 consoles also have the largest TSOP chips (1Mbit) so have much higher BIOS compatibility, and, if you’re so inclined you can actually install a switch onboard to toggle between BIOSES without a modchip at all. Be careful if you do choose to attempt this as some additional steps need to be taken not to damage the board. The LPC port in this model is fully intact, so if you do need to install a modchip for some reason you can use pretty much any one you can find. 1.1 comes with literally all the above benefits, minus the extra fan header. Power still runs across that portion of the board though, so if you want it can still be used, just slightly harder to do. One disadvantage of these early models is that they tend to have the hazardous Foxlink PSUs. Replace ASAP if you have one in a running console. Any console after these is a bit is a bit of a downgrade as they all have 256k TSOP chips at this point I believe. Some of them have Winbond or Sharp TSOP chips and are a bit harder to work with in that regard. 1.2 - 1.4 is pretty much the same and you’re not likely to see many. 1.5 is where things change a wee bit, as there are a couple pins removed from the LPC port and you’re likely to notice the problematic TSOP chips on these. 1.6 is easily the worst in terms of modding as you can only softmod. Modchips can be installed but you also have to rebuild almost of the LPC port in order to even attempt a modchip install. I will however admit that on their own I’ve found 1.6 to be the coolest (temperature wise) and quietest revision console. Edit: almost forgot the most important point! EVERY revision console besides 1.6 has leaky clock caps and will kill the board. They NEED TO BE REMOVED from your consoles. Given that and performance in terms of thermals these could be seen as the ideal revision, as long as you’re not doing much tinkering. Most people who just want to play games will fetch away with a softmod just fine. DVD drives are kind of all over the place but early consoles used the Thompson’s... they aren’t great. My ideal console would be a TSOP 1.0 with Phillips DVD drive and IND bios. I could probably go on but I’ll let you have your thread back haha

Check the manufacturer of the power supply. Is it a Foxlink PSU? Might be a bad time. Those ones are known to be fire hazards. One thing I’ve noticed with them in particular is that the two connections right where you plug the power cable in will spark and scorch. You can see this easily by removing the hard drive cage.

I think I just used the wrong terminology here, but we’re talking the same thing. That also explains the holes in the middle. Such a damn elegant design. Nice. Now that I actually know what I’m looking at!