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Bowlsnapper
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Everything posted by Bowlsnapper
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That is VERY cool and I think for specific builds (like my little DVT-5 design) it would be cool to have a pristine green shell prime for stenciling and without the "Halo Edition" stenciling already in the case. But GOD they are expensive. If Ali does do this, I hope they have the same presumed quality. Those colors seem to be a dead match.
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I may take you up on that!
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https://github.com/N64-Freak/Xbox-CPU-interposer/tree/main/Hardware SSPEC Number Clock speed Cache SL5XL 1400Mhz 512Kb SL6BY 1400Mhz 512Kb SL5VX 1333Mhz 256Kb SL6BZ 1333Mhz 256Kb SL5LW 1266Mhz 512Kb SL5VX 1200Mhz 256Kb The ones that are most desirable for this mod (1.4GHZ) are the SL6BY and the SL5XL, although all in this list are the same socket type and will work. If you need an extra 100MHZ, I think this will be easily achieved with overclocking. Cerbios seems to resist embedded (patched bios) overclocking on most motherboards for whatever reason (This has been my and others' experience), but software overclocking seems to work okay. I doubt you will see much difference between 1.3GHZ and 1.4GHZ if you're coming up from 733MHZ.
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I would love to be able to start using the buttons instead of just manually typing in the commands through SSH. Very nice, @dtomcat
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Could possibly be KILLER trace rot. Can you take a pic of the top of the motherboard?
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What filament are yo using for the green and how large is your print bed?
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What version of the board is this? My LED's do NOT work really at all (I may have done something wrong regarding resistors or something else) and the board I used doesn't have and "Step" LEDs in the top right like pictured here. VERY nice.
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Are you able to source the STL for the case? -
Lol, "Cactus". Yes, adjusting the potentiometer (some have separate "CD" and "DVD" pots) can give you some way to compensate for a diode with diminished output, but really, other things should be tried to bring the drive back into working specs. Kaos suggested recapping the drive and I think that's a good idea. I've also seen him mention elsewhere that the resistor arrays right at the IDE port should be replaced too, since those are apparently known to go bad as well. I would run the installer from disc. Running from USB would be slower than hell since it's USB 1.1. Also, the pathing in the scripting would be incorrect and may not work, since the drive paths will be different. I think there is some version of the OGXbox installer that can be done over FTP, but I think it is kinda' old and a bit limited in flexibility, although I could be wrong there. Do you have any other drive you can use? I recently used a BluRay drive with an extra Startech adapter and it worked fine. I just had to restart the xbox every time I inserted a disc since it has no way to receive a CD_READY signal from the drive. But a PC drive (SATA or IDE) WILL work if you wanna try it temporarily. Then, once everything is done, just put the broken drive back in.
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The quote you posted is confusing. I think it may need to be edited cuz I didn't say that. Things booting normally is a sign that NO chips are being picked up at all by the bios/kernel. Okay so, I think that the process you're using is a bit overcomplicated and I think the reason your legs are so dry is because you're using the desoldering braid. Unless you are using too much solder, flux should really prevent bridges from happening. Tacking 4 corners first is always good. I would suggest that you start with a small dab of solder on the tip of your iron and drag back and forth across the pins until that small bit of solder is spent. With lots of flux, the solder should equally disperse across all the pins you drag across. So if you get a bridge somewhere, just drag it across the pins down the row. I always get rid of "bridgy", excess solder by spreading across pins that need more. I just eyeball the amount of solder necessary since I have done it so many times, but you should be able to tell, more or less, how much solder is enough for the pins. Once that small bit of solder has been used, put a bit more on the iron and drag a bit more until basically, all the pins have been "Filled In". Sometimes, a bridge can be removed by dragging DOWN the pins, down the legs that are joined. This sometimes splits the splash up. I NEVER use desoldering braid. It is easier for me to just add dabs of solder and spread them across the legs than it is to just drop a blind amount and worry about a small grouping of pins. You have to solder ALL the pins, so spread that solder around the chip! Look at the difference here between this pic, and the way your pins are now. This is one chip I did using the technique I am describing. Ignore the messiness on the top right. The pins were bent and I was being lazy. Saturate those pins with solder! Do NOT be afraid of bridging! Remember, you can always start with small bits of solder and keep adding. But never start with an amount so huge that you have to clean up the excess with braid. If you have too much solder on one row, flux up another row of pins and try to move that solder over to THAT row. If you have a row with bridging and a row that is empty, "pick up" the excess with your soldering iron by cleaning off the tip ENTIRELY of solder and making sure that the tip is empty, THEN dragging across the bridged section, and subsequently dropping the solder you just picked up on the empty section. Feel free to either clean off the tip of the solder you just picked up, or spread it across a row with NO solder at all (or simply not fully saturated yet) by dragging it off. Either way, spread it around, don't soak it up with braid. If all your rows are saturated and you still have bridging for some reason: 1. You used too much solder. 2. Start picking up the solder by cleaning off the iron completely and then dragging the bridged section. Clean the tip, drag again. Clean the tip and drag again until you've picked up all the excess you needed to. That way you only remove EXCESS solder instead of soaking up a shitload with braid and leaving your pins dry. You want your pins/pads to have as much solder as they can hold without bridging. So get good at walking that line and saturating enough to ensure a good solid bond, but not so much that you are bridging.
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What method are you using to solder them? The pics I see, those legs/pads are VERY dry. I would flux it up and add more solder to them... using a soldering iron. Have you taken a pair of tweezers and done the torque test, applying slight lateral pressure to the pins and ensuring that they are secured and soldered?
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XblastOs frozen - cerbios TSOP attempt
Bowlsnapper replied to dimitrisVasil's topic in TSOP Flashing
The VX.dxt (VerifierX) issue happens when running the xdk launcher with it and trying to launch XBlast. It causes it to blank screen. That will not be your issue here. Did you ever try a different controller? -
Sorry, I thought I answered this. I think I accidentally closed the page. Glad you found out.
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Lol, of course, your box art for dead or alive is top notch. Giggity.
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Thank you for the tips. That's pretty helpful! Would you happen to know the best way to create the preview pics (Icons) and WMVs, or do you just kinda have to know what the parameters are and get used to it? I did see the PDF and it is missing a couple things (can't remember what they are off the top of my head) but some skinning appears to be covered in it. I'll check out the softmodding tool
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Could you do us a solid and provide the documentation you used to get your USB port soldered up?
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Ran the test build finally today! The textures look great! I would love to have a targeting system for the projectiles at some point. The overlay flickers a bit, but who cares. I sent you some source that should help with the sound source localization thing you were trying to work on. I hope it helps!
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Shadow, is this still how you like to do things? Starting with a template? I was looking for a bit of info about creating thumbnails/preview/videos. The term "Layering" makes sense when looking at advanced skins that I have seen.
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? What do you mean? You can still order and have them shipped to you, right? Are they on backorder right now?
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I actually had a pretty rough day today and had to sleep for most of the day. I did not forget at all and I'll try it tomorrow when I wake up.
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It can be quieter with a Noctua fan. But I've never been bothered by it one bit, even when using noisy IDE drives back in the day. Good work, dude! I'm glad to see you progressing on this.
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That really is a damn nice case and RF Shield. It's a shame that it's got that 1.6 in it. I would transplant a 1.1 into it.
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CRAP. I missed this. I wanted that thing... Glad you got it sold though.
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I was actually gonna say that, and I forgot. Lol. Yes, I think that is the case, as I read it and took its meaning. Nikey is correct: I am referring to certain internal HDMI encoders that have the ability to transfer data via the I2C SMBUS and that absolutely require good firmware in order to function well. Not a universal component to HDMI encoder.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48