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About CrispyWhispy

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  1. CrispyWhispy


    It replaces the default AV out. I pre-ordered one too. Very interested in this, and how the direct digital out will go vs component/custom hdmi adapters.
  2. Very nice, well done. Love the sleeved cables and the green glow is not too obnoxious.
  3. I'll give another thumbs up to the Kingwin (https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B002SZDOM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I have one that works great (with 80 wire PATA) with two more arriving in a couple days. I'll report back if I have issues with the next two.
  4. First time I've seen anyone poo poo the idea of backing up your own files. Interesting. Are you saying that the softmod files are specific to that particular softmodded xbox? Obviously they're not on a hard modded system. I can create as many unlocked HDDs as I want and paste my C and E partitions on them. Yeah the reason I didn't leave the chip connected (sans D0) until after the TSOP flash, was purely to get all the soldering done at once. As in, de-solder mod chip, solder TSOP write and done. As opposed to de-solder modchip D0, solder the TSOP points, console halfway back together, flash TSOP, de-solder rest of chip. Say old mate has no eeprom backup, never FTP'd any files to his PC, locked HDD with softmod about to attempt TSOP... stuffs up soldering somehow... You see where I'm going with this. The amount of reading I've done lately where the title is "help I've bricked my system" is staggering. Should they be attempting the mod, or soldering the MB? Probably not, but if shit can go wrong it will. As always I appreciate your insight though.
  5. Game saves, custom dashboards, settings? A backup of E couldn't hurt right? Takes only a few minutes to FTP over the whole C and E partitions. If someone managed to brick the whole Xbox (if that's possible) by dodgy soldering, pads lifting or flashing the wrong size BIOS or the like, you could at least transfer all your gear to a new Xbox - Correct me if I'm wrong, still re-learning all of this.
  6. Yeah same same but different. If I was to do it again that's how I would do it. This was just how it made sense to me after a long time out of the game.
  7. Can you hear the hard drive boot up with the case on? Is the molex power coming from motherboard out of the way of the top of the case and routed correctly? What does your PATA cable look like? Can you post pictures so we can see the the folds and how they sit?
  8. This is a guide for anyone out there who may have an old mod chipped system and decides they want to Flash the TSOP and get rid of the mod chip. For Xbox revisions 1.0 to 1.5 only. I've had my v1.1 Xbox since almost launch (in Australia) the box has served me well for over 17 years. Had it modded by a guy we found in the newspaper. Just some small maintenance along the journey - refurbish the DVD drive (Samsung), fix trace corrosion and remove the clock capacitor. Now it was time to say goodbye to the Aladdin Advance. This may not be the quickest way, but I think it would be one of the safest. Full backup of all partitions on my PC Backup of EEPROM (Through Evox Dash) - Send to PC Backup of HDD EEPROM through Config Magic(different to the Evox Backup?) - Send to PC Locked the HDD to the Xbox via ConfigMagic or Evox Dash etc Softmodded with Slayers 3.3 - C drive no virtual Removed Aladdin Advance mod chip - mine was soldered directly to MB so be careful when removing. I accidently broke off the C702 component and had to solder back on. Soldered the correct TSOP write points for my Xbox revision - For Reference https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20-tsop-flash-guide/ Checked BIOS with Bios checker on AutoInstallerDeluxe 4.5.3 TSOP confirmed writable. It will say 'TSOP?' up the top of the screen Ran TruHexen 2020, flash bios the correct BIOS to TSOP depending on revision - v1.0 & v1.1 can support up to 1MB Bios, v1.2-v1.5 can support 256KB Bios - M8 Plus.67 is safest Ran option 3.5.2 on TruHexen2020 - clean C after TSOP - To remove Softmod Reformatted F and G drives with XBpartioner 1.3 - ensuring they show the full and correct amount in File Explorer/Your dash of choice Delete contents of C and E partitions via FTP, and FTP over original C and E contents, reboot the Xbox FTP all F and G data back to the Xbox. For a video of the TSOP solder and flash process - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIw8k5areQg&t=126s Hopefully this will help someone in the future. Thanks
  9. Most bootable ISOs (for Xbox or not) will burn just fine in Windows 10 - Right Click on ISO 'Burn disc image'
  10. Thanks for the tip on the wdidle.exe @SS_Dave, definitely feels quicker/more responsive now it doesn't rest the needle, which I guess has stopped the clicking noise too.
  11. Back on topic with the OP, I did the TSOP last night and pulled out the modchip, underneath the chip it says "Aladdin Advance". Pretty sure I got it installed around 2003. It has served me well all these years, but ultimately decided to get rid of it. It wasn't the cleanest install of a chip, and with me messing around with the motherboard more now I didn't want to make it worse. I'll put a walk through up of the process I used later, for anyone out there who may be in the same boat - Going from Hard Modded (Chip) to TSOP. Yeah alright, so with drives already formatted for use with the Xbox, can I just throw the SATA drive in my computer (or use a HDD caddy)? I'm assuming it won't recognize, then we have to use Xplorer360 or something? OR Do I need to fully wipe the drive, format it for windows, then run the wdidle.exe, then throw it back in the Xbox and partition it again. Interesting. I was getting artifacting on text in AutoInstaller when I was using the 40 wire, SATA/IDE adapter and 2TB drive. Bonus question - Are you getting new old stock of 500gb (or any size) IDE HDDs? Edit: After researching wdidle.exe I can see that you need to boot into it, but the question still stands, will the drive need to be reformatted back to NTFS to do this? Edit 2: Upon further research I don't think the drive will be wiped as the wdidle.exe is just changing settings on the HDD controller right? Not actually touching the disk/data itself.
  12. So I changed the M8 Plus.67 to have no flubber animation. Flashed it, reboot, no boot. Error 7. Put my old HDD back in, reflashed with Hexen. Definitely an issue with my IDE to SATA Adapter I think, unless WD Green just takes an unreasonable amount of time to boot up? Pretty sure they're 5400rpm and my old IDE was 7200. What IDE to SATA adapter do you use?
  13. Ahh I see, so 1.6s are the worst on all fronts then. Good point, I might give that a go later tonight. Thanks again
  14. Speaking of v1.6, I hear the clock capacitor may still leak, just less likely. I picked one up the other day. If I hard mod the 1.6, do I still need the clock cap? So here is my current M8 plus.67 I tried disabling the animation, x logo, trademark symbol and splash logo - when I did this, on boot it gave me Xbox Error code 7 (HDD took to long to get ready) This was with the SATA/IDE adapter, 80 wire IDE and 2TB drive. Swapped my old 80gig IDE HDD drive in, and reflashed back to the above. So obviously a problem with either my SATA/IDE adapter, 80 wire IDE or 2TB SATA (WD Green). That setup takes about 20-30 seconds to boot. With the IDE drive, it does the boot animation, takes an extra second to show "Microsoft", then (provided I have internet connected) straight into XBMC. Less than 10 seconds from hitting the buttom. Thanks Edit: The 80 wire IDE is obviously fine, cuz it still did the fastest boot with the 80gig IDE HDD.
  15. Thanks heaps. A lot of good info there. I had been using X2 4893.67 for over a decade, moved to iND5003.67 after the 2TB install, but hated the extra long boot time with the reading of config file. Also noticed a longer boot time by having the SATA adapter (kingwin) installed. Now running M8 Plus.67, but the IGR is iffy. I'm keen to try the X2-5035.67.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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