sweetdarkdestiny

I have the reddit post open. And when i look at the date code i would assume it' s a 1.6. Anyway. I will wait till the chip and capacitors shows up and see what happs then.

So we are not 100% sure anymore about the thing that mine is a 1.4? I have a multimeter here just in case.... The only difference i see in the pics is the golden clock capacitor.

Damn Dave, you're right (like always) and destroied my dream of becoming rich. :D ;) I opended my other 1.4 and they are the same, except for the fan (Sunon (never saw one of these)) and the missing LPC solder point which my other 1.4 still has. Btw. i never realized that the 1.4 has still the fan mounting points for the GPU fan which make me wonder if you can simply solder a header to it to use it for a fan? And yes, i will replace the clock cap (3300uF 10 V) along with the 3 x 3300uF 6.3 V by the CPU since they looks like they will explode soon and i also replace the 3 x 1500uF 6.3 V and the one 3300uF 10 V close to the ATX connector, than she sould be fine. With the TSOP is nice to know but since she' s just an "ordinary" 1.4 crystal she will get the xenium. How ever, i much appreciated your help Dave. Thanks. :)

EDIT BY ADMIN: It's not a 1.5. No 1.5 has ever been found because it was a hoax and could not actually exist. Well... Yesterday i got the old XBOX Crystal ( i spammed already in a other topc) and i was thought it's an v1.4 but it isn't (damit). It's an v1.5 Crystal which should be not realy exsist or at least it's a rar one? Anyway, it's missing at least 1 point on the LPC port. Since i never had a 1.5 I'm not realy sure if my plan, adding a Xenium and a Ram upgrade (the pads are still there on the 1.5 so i assume it would work?), will work on those. Do i need some sort of LPC fix like in the 1.6? And out of curiosity, would a TOSOP flash be possible with the 1.5? My final question, are the cases still the same like the 1.3/1.4 or are they already different like the 1.6? Below are some quick and dirty made pics. If someone whan't some in a better quality, let me know from what and i make some better pics for you.

Ok ok, its offtopic but just open a new topic since i already have highjacked this one 3 post above ... .;) So i got that Crystal X-Box today and yay, it' s a v1.4 with a wierd Fan and a Philips DVD Drive. Looks like some caps have been already repleaced and some (the three on the CPU) need to be replaced asap. But over all, for just 30 euros, not a bad buy i guess. I think she will get a nice little xenium and the common sata make over and some new caps.

Not to sure but worth a try. Put the old HDD back in the XBOX and boot Hexen or Slayer and try to unlock the HDD with ConfigMagic.

34/37°C - Hell... never seen those temps. Looks like you have a pretty good CPU which runs very cool by default. Have you changed the case fan? Here are 2 pic of my WIP disassembled again. And a pic of the latest buy from ebay, a Cystal XBOX for 30 Euro which i get tomorrow. I realy hope it's an 1.4.

Install a temp sensor or two under the cpu and gpu block close to the die. And 55 is fine if you have normal ambient temps. In case you' re sitting outside in Alaska the 55 could be a bit hot. ;) Atm i'm still working on my slim (~50% done) and i have idle temps about 40°C and ~25/26°C room Temp. on a test run i had between 52 and 55°C. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as termalpaste and well, i guess i ahve o tell, i have cooler on the gpu and cpu so, you could say i'm cheating a little. :D And yea no DVD (ofc slim) and no normal harddrive. For that i have used an SATA to IDE and a normal 500 GB SSD with no housing. So there ist not much which could produce heat whcih makes me more a cheater i guess. :D And the build isn't final yet. After i saw the lates Video from " Tech On Top" ( Link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av5k-40BFkU ) i guess i will change some more things. Right now i sleeve all the cables. When it's done i will post some pics but ofc it will not look like any close to that nice little beast from Tech on top. That guy is pretty good in my opinion. Found some topos? Tell me where and you get some more for free. :D

Lead free solder is a pain in the .... As flux i would recomend Amtech or ChipQuik. Not the cheapes but they will pay of. As solder i would suggest some S-Sn60Pb40 (0,5/0,7mm) (I use some from Stannol (not sure if they sell worldwide)). About the 5 wires for the 1.6. You can also get an" LPC rebuild board" for 1 or 2 bucks. And hell yeah, the next topic we will (wan't) read from you is "I finaly modded my 1.6 and it works!".

It's called "USB FATX Formatter (v1.3.2)" and it' s attached below. USB FATX Formatter v1.3.2.7z

Thanks for info Dave. And btw I only have Modchipped XBoxes since i'm not that mutch into masturbating. ;)

@ xicat487 : How about the game loading times compared to an ATA or SATA HDD in the XBox?

It`s a simple tool to format USB Sticks in FatX for the XBox on the PC.

When you start the XBox with the eject button the xbox try to boot up the MS dashboard. You are sure you have one installed? And if your HDD isn't locked and you do the same, power on with eject, you get also a error even when you have an Original MS Dash installed

XDVDMulleter Beta 10.2 should could do that. (Batch iso operations).

Cxbx-Reloaded is the only way but it didn't work well for all games. You need a pretty heavy gaming mashine. https://github.com/Cxbx-Reloaded/Cxbx-Reloaded The Cxbx-Reloaded compatibility list can be found here : https://guivanrv.github.io/cxbx-reloaded-compatibility-list/ My advice, get a used xbox for some bucks. You will not get very pleased with this emulator but it' the only use full out there.

*Looking around* No Dave here, no mailp70 here, just me here. Conclusion you both must be somewhere else but not here.

Here i have a artwork pack for 41 homebrew games (21.03 MB). https://1fichier.com/?pl7mm2d9i6msf869wejk

Use a type of DVD media you know your xbox boot. The best ist to use Verbatim-r like Dave already wrote. To burn the image use ImgBurn at slowes speed possible. Other DVD's you have boot without problems? What you could try is to use HeXen 2019. I got some trouble to boot the 2018 in my 1.6b but worked well in my 1.4. SO my you give it a shoot as well. Worst which could happen if it dosn't work, you burnd 0.50 cents for a dvd in case it didn't work which is acceptable in my opinion.

Not a file zilla problem in my opinion. I would guess wrong formatted harddisk since i had this error my self when in had this damn 16kb vs 64kb bug. The only way, if i'm right with my guess, is to start over again and formate the harddisk again. Test to copy another game and if the same happens again i'm right. Wrong harddisk layout.

Use a hairdryer to warm (not heat) it up a little bit.

I have 2 of the same and both work fine. But the first of them had a solder bridge on the controler chip which i have fixed. Maybe you have se same problem and maybe it could help to resolder the joints on the resisors and caps and power like i did on both of mine. The original used solder is horrible. But i also have to admit that i bought both as amazon deal for 5 euros each so for me it was worth the hassle. ;)

Damn, you're right. Hope the OP was smarter than me and saw that im pointed him to the wrong pad. Anyway, thanks for correcting me an shame on me for that. Next time i have to pay a little more attention. Maybe a Mod can remove the picture since i can't edit it out.

Check out this topic: Love this baby (the chip ofc) and my be i will buy one for my self.

Just connect BT with the first pin on the left in the upper row and remove the BT point cable from the board. Thats it. EDIT : And no benefit for disabling the chip. Btw. you may consider to install XBMC4Gamers along with the resource pack (linked below (DL-Links on side 4)) :