sweetdarkdestiny

I don't see anything.

My pleasure.

Yes it is the right cap.

It's an 1.4 and yes you can de-solder the clock cap.

Thanks. A clean looking inside was the main goal of this even if you don't see it that much often but hey, for my inner peace.... :D At the moment it runs Unleash-X as deafult dash with a customised config but there is also a full and ready to use XBMC4Gamers on it with coverflow, videos ect.

Reporting strait from the noughty step. I finished my first slim ever. It's nothing special from the outside but the inside rocks - i guess. Some mods which i have done to that poor helpless little thing: Sleeved all cables (Incl. a golden "The Dave Wire" (You can see it in one of the pictures behind the molex power connector)). Build a 2,5" HDD cage. LED mod (green). USB port mod. Chip mod. CPU & GPU fans added. 60mm case fan as replacement. Removed the open close dvd button and added an IR shild. Internal HDMI Mod (Yea one of those cheap Wii adapters but for me they work good enought). Slim case mod (Obvious). I have removed the elox of the CPU/GPU cooling blocks and polished them. Added a cooling block to the MCPX. ATA to IDE adapter + 80 wirde cable. 500GB 2,5" sata. Replaced some caps. Added a fan control for the CPU & GPU fan. (Even at full speed the xbox is much much less noisy as a stock xbox) Idle temps are now ~ 39°C which is fine for a slim i think. Finaly here are some pictures: So i hope you like it, comments are welcome.

Why?

Yes. You can use any sata HDD up to 2TB (more than 2TB would be a waste because the xbox can`t make use of the extra space).

XBMC4Gamers User Guide : https://1fichier.com/?wuh9159iazzad03f7pr3

After you boot up your temps should idle at 35-45°, depending on your room temps. From HD the temps go up higher as from dvd but nothing you should worry about. In Unleshed you can find the fan settings in the system setting under "Xbox Admin Area" (on default skin). In XBMC4Gamers you can set the fan temp also under system settings. And by Slayers you mean Evo-X i guess. There i have no clue cuz i don't use it, sry. After gaming. Good question. Would say it also depends on the game and how much the ahrd drive works. Would guess 50-65C but also depending on room temps. So maybe it's easyer to say what temps you have on which dash.

Typo mate. Repleace "everywhere" with "at all". So i give you a "legal" hint for just one site. Archive.org. Maybe it was already to much.

Huhhhh warez. Use Google or buy some at ebay, amazon ect. EDIT: Btw. There are legit pages for warez?

You can disassembly the hdd and build a nice nerdy mirror out of it. But you would need more than just one drive. Or you could make a hdd with a window and 1 or 2 LED's in it (just for fun ofc). But at the end the drive not have any use because of it's size. One, more or less, useful thing i have made from an old xbox hard disk is a test disc with all tools, bios files, dashboards ect. and 2 games for testing purposes. It might come handy one day.

Ok, thanks Dave. Was just curios because of this post i found : https://madhacker.org/xbox-s-video-spdif-mod/

I wonder if it possible, when using the Wii adapter intern, to enable digital audio by bridging point 9 to 11 and 12, when a coax port is soldered to point 6. For normal the normal Wii adapter install just 11 and 12 are bridged so would it cause problems?

Here is a video of the xenium install on an 1.6 / 1.6b : OpenXenium install on a 1.6 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICRS3yHICKQ (Jump to 28:10) There is a jumperwire C2 + D6 marked with 1.6. They should be linked. EDIT : And again Dave was that split secound faster.

Aladdin XT installation Guide.pdf

Hmmm.... The reddit wiki ( https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/error_codes ) says something different. Conclusion: XBox flashes orange means, there is something wrong. :D

Flashing Orange : Damaged trace or solder splashed on components. Mr. Mario has made a xenium install on a 1.6 ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICRS3yHICKQ ). My be you doulbe check that. When you can't find any problem, i would start by removing the chip and check what happens then. If you still get an error maybe something went wrong with the LPC rebuild.

Indeed it is a nice little mod, becaus you don't need to drill any extra holes for a led. And since i didn't saw this "tutorial" here on ogxbox, i have re-wrote it in english (because the original was in german) and shot some new pictures from the mod i have done on my 1.6 (forgot to make some of the 1.4 but, they are alomost the same) and pointet out the (more or less) "issue" with the R3V3 / R3V2 resistor someone could run into when not paying to much attention like me (I have made the mod on 2 x 1.4 and 2 x 1.6). And since I now me (When i find such like things, I create a PDF to have those things on hand when needed, without the hassle to remember where i found that), I included a PDF for all who are a little like me. ;) How ever, long story short, I'm glad you like it. :)

But not native. You have to install Xdsl (XBox Damn Small Linux) and set up a VM. And here's a download (~350MB) XDSL incl. Win98 : https://1fichier.com/?gq2culsxvd5lh1lc1ifi

Windows CE.NET 4.20 on the Microsoft Xbox (Just a proof of concept - NOT MORE!) : https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/article614.html And here you have a download : https://1fichier.com/?n81cllxujert93pgmams

And since i'm only allowed to upload 2MB, a second post with all the above as PDF. Hard drive activity LED Mod.pdf

Hard drive activity on the eject button led. To do that mod you don’t need an LED since we make use of the LED on the eject botton which give us a nice and clean look. Each time the hard drive read or write data, the orange (or “amber” if you prefer) led lights up and that will make you happy (Note: This just works for a man, not woman!). So what do we need: Wire. 30 AWG works for me. 10K resistor. Small piece heat shrink. Solder, Iron, Flux, IPA. Super duper glue or your hot glue gun. Optional : A beer a cup of coffee or tee. At this time you can choose the last time by your self until the tutorial is done! Ok, lets start by tear down your x-box like you normaly do and put the mainboard with the bottom side up in front you. The back ports should be facing upwards. When you have an v1.0 to v1.4 you should search for the resistor R3V2 (The v1.5 unicorne should have it one the same place, I guess). For v1.6 or v1.6b search for the resistor R3V3. (Yap, they are both on the same spot and do the same but M$ choose to lable those differently.) So when you have found the resistor, solder one end of the wire to the left side of the resistor. Now that this is done aim for the IDE connector. Measure how much wire you need to get to the IDE pin shown in the Picture (Don`t forget the length of your resistor.). It’s the first pin on the left side on top of the connector. Now solder your 10K resitor to the other end of the wire and put some heat shrink on it. Last but not least solder the end of the resitor to the IDE pin. Now it’ s time to put back together your x-box and test your new mod, of which, you can be unbelievably proud of– in case you didn't screw it up somewhere… like me on the 1.6 because I wasn’t aware that MS choose to lable the resistors wrong (remember?). But thats there fault and not mine so let us blame them for that! Still reading? Why? You have reached the end of, what ever you wanna call it, and can now make your own decisions again! (Except you have a wife/girlfriend, then you’re totally screwed cuz it’s on her to make decisions for you!). For real. I hope you had fun with this and you enjoy your new little mod. I’m out. PS. You found typos or i miss spelled something? See, you got that on top without a tip!

Still the one with that solder bridge? The team-xecuter.com webside should have plans. https://team-xecuter.com/community/threads/x2-6-wire-install.7261/