sweetdarkdestiny

And a new update. Cerbios Alpha V1.02 https://1fichier.com/?gxrkyrill10ps9jxuflc Changes/Additions - Release: Alpha V1.02 : Enabled 3 different IGR Modes # Dash = LT+RT+Back+Start # Game = LT+RT+Black+Start # Full = LT+RT+Black+Back Bug Fixes Related To ISO Image Dismount

Possible? Yes. Recommended? No. To be 100% sure there is no long term risk, you would need a clean room or at least a chamber free of dust of any kind. So I would not recommend such a mod if you care about your HDD or the data stored on it. If you just want to do it just for fun or for display go a head but, you should expect the HDD to fail so have a backup on hand.

Is it me or the 2 year old topic that smells?

Boot an Installer DVD and cold boot with the DVD already in the drive and flash a bios. After that set up your HDD (The OGXBOx Installer offers the option to just set up C, E or C & E only in case you already have games on F / G. That way you can keep them (The F & G will not be touched).

And Eaton did it : https://fatxplorer.eaton-works.com/2022/02/10/fatxplorer-3-0-beta-19-extra-large-hdd-formatting-support-for-og-xbox/

Without the jumper the adapter is set to cable select mode. Set the jumper to master and use a 80 wire cable.

Ok found out how it works. So open up the smartXX folder from the download (Post #10). Step one : Rename the " SmartXX OS 3408_beta.bin " to " update.bin " Step two : Power up your XBox and wait for the SmartXX menu. Setp tree : Launch the " tftpclient.exe " which is included in one of the downloads. Enter the IP the SmartXX display and select the "update.bin" file. Step four : Press upload and wait till the SmartXX has updated the Firmware. Press any button like you see on your TV screen. After the reboot your SmartXX shows the new FW version. EDIT DL for the new FW and the Tool : https://1fichier.com/?me87ihveit7divqhf8vt

My answer " I play Tomb Raider 1,2 & 3 using the OpenLara version for XBox". Damn, sometimes a little b1tch right? Edit : Tomb Raider 1 (OpenLara).rar 227.65 MB https://1fichier.com/?qefvj4znruframna8xuy Tomb Raider 2 (OpenLara).rar 170.20 MB https://1fichier.com/?cpfbc3xzfvf75920rch4 Tomb Raider 3 (OpenLara).rar 304.81 MB https://1fichier.com/?5nsisf0sau7qa4887i41

Mea culpa. Mea maxima culpa. Than you should now that the xbox bios also hasn't anything to do with the n64 emulator. The n64 emaulator and the PSX emulators make use of the original PSX/n64 bios. Simple has that. The n64 has some special chips and the n64 dosn't only struggle on the XBox. MvG has made a great video on that topic. And since we just talked about about PSX and not PS2 my point still stands. The cheapes solution is a PSX for 10 euros (Found one for 5 euros as well). But if you like, I can get a PS3 for 25 which can run PS1, PS2 and PS3 and that beats your PS2. #PreSchoolStyle.

Told ya AUS is damn expansiv. Found 4 on the first 4 pages on ebay 2 of which with 2 memorycards. 100 AUD = 62 Euros. Shipping a 10KG box (120x60x60) is 61 Euros with DHL. So round about 200 AUD. Let's say we could fit 20 (?) PSX in the package that would scream ~ 1800 AUD ( - ebay & co). I guess I should become exporter for console stuff.

A PSX for 10 bucks can play PSX games well (Who has seen this coming?). You also would not need to update the PSX CPU or the PSX RAM for that. #JustSaying. The main factor for playing PSX games on the XBox is the emulator, not the XBox bios.

DL Update Cerbios Alpha v1.01: https://1fichier.com/?bf4xwha9293gb57zjgu1

So far I found out that you don't use the remote flasher to update the SmartXX OS. You need to connect your PC -> XBox though the web browser. Then you will see a web interface of the SmartXX. https://imgur.com/a/ndDPMyD And I found another (german) manual : https://docplayer.org/35066466-Anleitung-zum-einbau-eines-smart-xx-v2-in-eine-er-xbox.html It didn't expain the flash but it shows you how to set up the connection though the browser. How ever, I will check that in a couple of hours because there is no life before coffee, coffee and more coffee...

Ich schmeiss Morgen mal meine XBox mit dem SmartXX ran und schau mal nach. Soweit ich weis habe ich die SmartXX FW da auch noch nicht aktualisiert aber Biose hab ich geflasht mit dem Tool von Warlock (Das erste untouched funktionierte bei mir auch nicht so wirklich). Ich geb Morgen abend bescheid.

Then better do not step in it. Now we need an app to format the extra partitions. And I wonder if Eaton will support the extra partitons with his FatXplorer. I also wonder if Rocky is able (and willing) to add support to UnleashX for the extra partitions if that is possible at all.

Cerbios Alpha V1 DL : https://1fichier.com/?hkyh3l182gujc3iszb56 XBox v1.0 - v1.3 ONLY!

Thats a Vevor 3.5x-90x Simul-focal Zoom Trinocular Stereo Microscope (Which is the same as the AmScope SM-4T with just another name on it).

Hmmm..... I wrote " There is at least one who allways knows " which not only means me. There could also someone else who knows the answer to your question. (Maybe my spelling was just to bad at that point) How ever, I have some spare boards of varius types laying around here (1.1/1.2/1.4/1.6) for parts etc. so I mostly can tell you what cap you need. Done that a lot of times already and will do in the fututre as well. Beside that, I write down the values of the caps I have desolderd for quicker access if someone ever need to know a value of one. Regarding your statment " I like how he specifically said he removed the capacitor before measuring it " ..... You know that there are some LCR/ESR meter which can measure parts in circuit so you don't need to unsolder them. Yeah, these tools coast a penny but they do exist (And I like to have one of those ). Finaly, like Bowlsnapper already wrote, I don't write BS (except it's marked as above) and if I would do, you can be sure that there are others here which would almost immediately post that I'm wrong. And if I would do such things on purpose, you can be sure that I would get banned asap. So - am I'm a person you can trust? Thats a question I can't and will not answer. That question is up to others, like you, to answer.

My post history is full of lies. You should never belive whats written on the internet. With one exception for the System32 folder thing, which you ofc should delete asap. After that, install Linux *. * This post could have some sarcasm in it and maybe contain traces of nuts (Not to sure about the nuts though).

The source is a spare 1.1 mainboard I have laying around. So I desolderd that cap and messured it.

There is at least one who allways knows. C4V3 = 100 nf

Hakko 998d? I assume you mean the Huakko 998D mutlistation? Atm I use a YIHUA 862D ( https://imgur.com/a/SSGJ5Mi ) which get's the job done but with the knowlegde I have now, I would not buy it again nor would I recommend to buy one if you will do serious soldering. If someone can't afford more (or is not willing to afford more / or is bearly us it), I would never blame someone for buying it.

I forgot to say the Hakko FX-951 is also a good iron and there are some listet on ebay UK. And I over read the part with the head gun. So after my experience I can't realy recommend any of these "Multistations" which include a hot air gun. Depending on what you do they will do the job but yeah most of the time it's a hassle (especially if you have one with the blower in the handly). How ever, the Quick 861DW (~260 Euros) is a standalone hot air gun I personaly would buy. Alternative the Atten ST-862D (~150 Euro) or YIHUA 993DM (~240 Euros). Major point though pay a little more (even it's for something used and you have to save some money first) instead of buying cheap stuff which will bearly do the job. You will enjoy it more even it hurts when you press the buy button.

Pace ST35 (Used) JBC DC 1 (Used) KSGER T12 STM32 v3.1 (IF you're willing to mod it slightly) TS100 ERSA i-CON Pico (New ~140,- GBP) ERSA i-CON nano (Used) Ersa RDS 80

Remove L1 and L2 completely. When you bridge BT to Pin 1 of the header (Like you have alredy done) the chip is always on so there is no need for L1 at all. And L2 (HDD LED) causes also sometimes trouble. And move the D0 a tiny bit away from the VIA's. (To much exposed wire there).