sweetdarkdestiny

Removed the bullshit.

I use cmd.exe like you can see in the screnn above. I'm pretty sure that TITAN and OC will not work toghter. You would need to unpack the evox kernel patch that one with titan and repack the bios. After that patching the OC values. But TITAN has different offsets as evox so it will 99,9999 % not work. So your best chance it to ask gaasedelen if he could look at it and make it compatible. But I would bet that the answer is no. https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan https://github.com/WulfyStylez/XBOverclock

Like I wrote it's an EvoX m8+ without extras. Here is the same as F+G version : https://1fichier.com/?bn9yttqb5vucz6vpxlih It will boot C:\evoxdash.xbe E:\evoxdash.xbe C:\xboxdash.xbe It will support HDD's up to 2TB and no it didn't support 128MB of ram because IDK if these both patches are work well togher. And since you can't even patch your own bios, I'm not going to patch that combination *sry*.

Thats an OC EvoX m8+ with -nv 240 -fsb 140 like shown in the screen above. It's for XBox versions 1.0 - 1.4

No problems at all. Proof : https://imgur.com/a/v1sIUva OC Bios : https://1fichier.com/?dz06z7wssvjfr16byvpw

Pic upload : https://imgur.com/upload And right from above isn't the best option to take a photo. How ever, they are goog enough to say *outch* but to bad to say something more. And it looks like you soldered without flux which isn't to good because it helps the solder to flow nice and even and it also helps to transfer the heat from your iron to the pads/vias/parts/etc....

Oh mate, I don't want to sound or be rude in any way but, you assumed you have burned the "traces or vias" and you post a picture of the top of the mainboard. How ever, if I see right, you have a 1.4 mainboard. And the 3 caps in front of the CPU should be 3300uf 6.3v. What I see are 1500uf 6.3v?

How can we tell without pictures?

I have checked the MD5 of the github .bin and yours and already thought something isn't right, nice that you confim that, I send my copy in the bits and bytes haven. I think that these DLD files only needed for the "Flashup" software. It would be way more elegant to find a way to flash the .bin file without the need to use that tool and without the need to desolder the flash rom. How ever there is one version of the flashup tool for the 8164 which worked without problems. Link : https://www.xbox360-forum.de/lg-gdr-8164-b-firmware-flash-tool-8164b-firmware-6600.html About the research..... Well.... I have that feeling you have something like "prsim" or "heartbeat" for XBox. So, no challange for you. Maybe we should consider making a "Kaos Headroom" thing. Do you think you could fit in an old CRT?

The github link you provided seems to have the firmware as .bin file which is 256kb (8050L_0012_patched.bin). I would guess the extra bytes screwed my drive but on the other hand, it woked for many others. I wonder why the drive returned an error in the first place. Even when I tried the /r switch which end up in "no drive". How ever the drive was woking in windows without any problem. I also flashed a 8164 wich went smooth (Still need one BC547 which I don't have oin hand atm so test the drive). How ever, I would assume that the extra bytes just an information for the HL flasher which, I assume again, unpack the firmware before flashing (Like you did with your black magic vodoo skills ). And the github page also offers a " 8163B_0M26.bin " dump which is nice. I think that I will buy 2-3 of the SST39LF020A chips just in case something will go wrong. #BetterSaveThanSorry #Call:555-KaosEngenier

Pretty interesting. Especially the part about the fact that you can play copied games on a unmodded console. I guess, I will test that just 4 fun.

Both can. The FW I dumped fromthe 8050 and flashed to the 8163 reads original Splinter Cell DVD without any problem. (Proof of that in the video). You know that "fixed" version. What ever it's called, it rendered my drive useless. DL: https://1fichier.com/?8vwz2vvemnpztoyjdhyv (How ever it worked for so many others so I belive it was a PEBCAK error - MAYBE!).

Thanks Kaos. I better don't ask how you can do that. It probably will go over my head anyway. (But you're a little cheater providing the firmware.bin without dumping it *Just kidding* ) I will give this a shoot when the other 8163 which I have bought hit up here (After dumping the original flash). Anyway, one question though, whats the difference between the so called "hacked" and the untouched 8050 firmware since both seems to work.

Btw. now I found the firmware of the drive as .bin file. I didn't was aware of that XBins has it. Sadly no original dump of 8163 drive there. Will see to buy another 8163 to dump the original rom (Will provide it here then if no one else is faster). How ever, I just made it becasue I didn't had anything to loose. I wasn't able to flash the 8163 in Windows with the "hecked fixed" version (PM'ed Sir Kaos about that problem). I always got the error "no drive". Then in FreeDOS the drive flashed but ended up to be a dead flash. So I thought let's take a look at the pcb of the XBox HL and to my surprise they are almost the same with the same SST (The 8184, which I have also here has a MX chip). So I desoldered SST from the XBox HL drive, dumped the rom, flashed it to the 8163 and crossed fingers. And yeah, you see the rest in the bad video I made. MD5 of the HitachiLG8050.bin file from XBins: 4865723bf8474df5fbc8444737c7dc82 MD5 of the file I dumped from HL drive: f52e92082ab4bfa67e3b111053e1af22 Would be still interesing to know whats different between these two dumps. So if you know, let me and maybe others know. One thing which seems not to work properly is the drive LED. The LED is almost anytime on but thats the only down side so far. How ever the drive reads anything I have thrown at it. Anyway, at the end I'm pretty happy that I don't need to toss the drive and being a drive killer.

Like written above I have dumped the SST from original HL XBox drive : https://imgur.com/a/ag63TDy

Alright ladies and ppl. without boobies, call me a dirty lucker. Little me dumped the SST of an OGXBox HL drive and flashed that dump to the dead 8163b. What can I say other then -> IT WöÖöRKED! So until someone provides a clean 8183b dump of the firmware you can use the HL firmware to get your drive back to life in case you're stupid out of luck like me. OGXBox HL Drive Firmware : https://1fichier.com/dir/GKy4eD9l Device ID of the SST 39LF020A is BF B6 ( This chip is 100% compatible with the non A version so you can use that flash profile). Btw. If someone have the original 8163b FW as .bin, please share it. And here is the video as a little Proof : YouTube Link

Thanks Koas but these files LG provides are useless. There is no .bin file in it which can flashed with a programmer and the dvd drive didn't get recognized at all so the only option is a clean .bin dump from a "donor" 8163B's SST chip like written on the page I linked.

I'm searching for a firmware dump of the original SST 39LF020A from the LG-GDR-8163B to get the drive back up and running. Some how the flash with the "8050L.dld" went wrong under DOS and now the drive didn't get recognized in Windows or DOS (And the drive LED is always on). How ever, if someone has a working flashable dump of the SST 39LF020A with the XBox firmware would also be ok (Not to sure if i could flash that 8050L.dld file to the SST so, yeah.....) . Richt now I have desoldered that little b1tch and soldered it on the pcb for my flasher..... And I also found this post : https://jestineyong.com/obtaining-eeprom-bios-firmware-for-deadflashed-lg-gdr8163b-dvd-rom-drive/ but sadly no firmware bin attached there.

How about option 3. Buy a new HDD for your NAS and some new shoes for your better half, problem solved. But if the best option 3 isn't one, drop the HDD ready collection (Which contains some non wörking games). How ever the ISO collection also have some problems. Some ISO files can't be unpacked with Xdvdmulleter or XISO. You need to unpack them with "extract-xiso" which works great. Finaly there is also an option 4 but I'm sure that if I tell you, your better half will not alow you to use this board anymore.

Flux is like thermal paste - A relgion. Now day's it's like some repair guy on YT say's I use this and ppl start saying this is the one and only. So I totaly agree with your " works for me and my style of working, may not work for you". And it's the same when it comes to leaded solder vs lead free and which brand or at which temp you solder or which tip is the best for the job. How ever, for beginners or hobbyists it's pretty hard to find recommendations because of that. At the end a lot comes down to your skills and your will to learn (And if you plan to do those things more often or just one or two times a year). Will say, someone who has build up experience over years can solder with pretty much anything (even when he still thinks "that iron sucks" right?). A beginner with 10k equiment would still suck at simple jobs. I remember my very first ram upgrade. It took me 1 1/2 days and a lot of " I can do that, I can do that". Now I do that stuff in round about 30 min incl. testing & coffee break (. Pretty funny when I think back. And I'm still using the same "cheap" YIHUA 862d+ station for soldering which, I plan to replace in the near future (Probably with a station from JBC). Is it possble that it smells a bit in here? Some please turn on the fume extractor.

I didn't wrote you should should switch to the Atten. The quick is fine (I guess) how ever, like most things in life it's a thing of personal taste and ofc money right? And the video isn't to bad imo. And ofc we could discuss about Louis and his opinions but why? Point is the video is well made and it shows pro and cons and compares both stations pretty well. And I personaly think for a hobbyist both are more than fine. If the OP just need it once or twice a year I would recommend a cheap WAP/YIHUA thing which will do the job as well and should be ok for this purpose (Worked with one until I bought the Atten some months ago). And to say " I would never change for anything" is just a matter of the money you can spend on thing (Like written above). If money dosn't matter go with JBC or PACE or or or but stay away from Hakko or Ersa. And after a lot of research you can also recommend some "cheap" chinese stations over Hakko and Ersa or even JBC. But at the end one thing is important, what will I do with it and how often I do it (Anf ofc how deep your pocket is).

I recommend to get a Atten ST-862D which I use my self after I saw thi video. It's better and a bit cheaper as the Quick.

No it's just an EvoX to get a first bios to your TSOP. But you could extract the iND 5003 XISO from TruHeXEn using XDVDMulleter Beta 10.2. E: But you need to rename it to "bios.bin" to flash an Winbond TSOP with it.

Do you have enough free space on C? If there are softmod files there is very little space. (You can delete the XBlast folder on C if there is one, that folder isn't needed to flash a bios) So here : https://1fichier.com/?z0zzg39aqghrpswkqgo8 are EvoX bios'es as Yes and noDVD. There is also XBlastOS in this pack. Copy XBlastOS to E:/Apps (if not already there) and then copy the bios of your choice to C:\bios and launch xblastos,

Sounds strange. Which TSOP you have? Winbond, Sharp, ST .....? Have you checked if there is a bios file in the bios folder on C?