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trencherfield

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Everything posted by trencherfield

  1. trencherfield
    So yeah, if you’re just looking to play some games grab an Xbox, mod it, back up your collection, and just enjoy yourself. ? And the specific point of all that waffle in relation to martin66789's posts was?
  2. trencherfield
    Original GDR-8163b Firmware version OL23 - factory vanilla for PC. GDR-8163B0L23(EW).zip ---------------------------------------------------------------------- People would be willing to buy those two drives from you no doubt, for which you could then buy any newer better PC DVD/DVD-R drive instead for peanuts, as a suggestion. Seems absurd to re-flash these back for PC use when there are better PC options widely available.
  3. trencherfield
    This is the correct flasher for your 8163b dvd drive for use in the Xbox.
  4. trencherfield
    You have a GDR8163b dvd drive in the first picture. Therefore, you should only be trying to update the firmware for this using the tool on page 3 of this thread that I posted. Nothing else. Why are you trying to flash the 8164b firmware to a 8163b drive in the latter pictures? By the way, on the first picture at boot, it appears the drive is already flashed and showing now as the Hitachi GDR8050L for the Xbox. If that's the case, then you are already done and now you need to perform the hardware mods to the drive and wire it up correctly as per the many available guides. You may now need to reflash the firmware using the 8163b tool on page 3 in case you have corrupted it since the first picture to make sure. Other than that, I don't know what you are trying to do.
  5. trencherfield
    First point, which DVD drive do you have? An 8163b or 8164b? The 8050 firmware tool is for the 8163b only and is DOS based. If you have an 8164b, then you need to use the windows flasher instead within the windows environment. This is the 8164b flasher. xbox8164flasher_v1.0.rar
  6. trencherfield
    It's not. There are others. I've always used Configmagic (final) myself, but then I'm old skool
  7. trencherfield
    Neither could I, must surely be left over stock as it's USB2.0 from that era.
  8. trencherfield
    Nice collection there, especially the blue X3.
  9. trencherfield
    This is similar to the OGX360 in some respects and probably what Ryzee based it upon. If I was looking at a repair of this then I would probably; 1) After a full trace check, then quickly meter the resistors for any drift etc. 2) Replace the crystal and maybe fling on two new picoF caps for it C7/C8 since I have them and re-test. 3) Given all else looks to be just passive SMD and possibly ferrites on L2 L6 etc, then you can replace the TI usb controller IC. This is remarkably still available! https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/TUSB2046BVFR/2255387 That 'should' get it up and running quite cheaply.
  10. trencherfield
    Update; 2 Red kits left now.
  11. trencherfield
  12. trencherfield
    B01 may have been updated with a 'protected area' by MS.
  13. trencherfield
    Your Xecuter 2.6 chip has a 1MB bios capacity split into two banks of 512K each, with the switch selecting each bank. Normally you would flash a 512K BIOS to match the bank size, but XblastOS will fill the bank for you if you use a 256k bios it will automatically double it and fill that bank. There are pre-made 512k bios floating about as well that are already like this. You want to flash one of the 512k banks with Cerbios probably and maybe flash X2 5035 bios which is 512k to the other bank if it's not already on it. You can just leave the chip 'as is' for now if you have no other means to flash Cerbios to it and do it later on. You don't need the old hard drive for anything, locked or unlocked, may as well discard that. You can just fit your SATA hard drive with a sata/ide adapter like Startech and use an 80pin IDE cable, not the original xbox one. Then boot your install disc. There are flashing utilities on the installers as well if you wish to flash the chip. You can also setup your SATA hard drive in a PC, but I've not used that method.
  14. trencherfield
    Those SMD caps were fitted by MS. Nobody's twisting your arm to replace them if you don't want to. Nothing wrong in that. Your post title asked for the "best". As Fang has already told you those caps are there for a reason, designed for each specific part of the circuit. They might be fine, then again they might be borderline. Some may even fail within the can and you wouldn't know. All are ~variables~ we can do without. The more you can get the board back to factory fresh, then safe to assume the better it will perform and also less likely to fail with spurious 'issues' in the long run. Again that's not to say it will do, we only do the best we can. How far you go is up to everyone's own opinion and of that, there are many to be found.
  15. trencherfield
    I’ve had pink screen 1.0 and 1.1’s that have stopped that by replacing the two caps by the conexant encoder. But all the caps should be replaced by now. Its quarter of a century old! For the cost its a no brainer.
  16. trencherfield
    Subjective and dependent on the rest of the boards overall condition and attached components. For instance, if the board has had the best polymer caps added throughout, the best peripherals attached within, then ultimately adding those unpopulated caps can only improve performance, especially picture wise. This is also why there is a QSB for the hdmi mod, to aid the video output issues on 1.0/1.1 etc. Motherboards were built by budget cost, not perfection. Improvements can always be made up to a point. Same goes for the power supply. Its a switcher (smps) and a rough one at that. Linear would be better, but cost and size prohibitive of course. You can see this visually on an 8bit 2600 Atari with a composite mod. Some wall plug psu will give a terrible picture (smps) while an original linear heavy transformer based psu will give a clear picture on the same console.
  17. trencherfield
    Yep, cut time losses. Flash a new bios to the Xecuter chip, needs to be 512k sized one. Then fit a new sata hard drive and set it up.
  18. trencherfield
    This may be due to the X2 bios on your xecuter 2.6 chip and dash boot shortcut not being correct. That drop in hard drive will need the X2 ini file to tell the xbox where to load the dash, hence error 16. https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:Error_Codes#:~:text=Error Code 16 Also, when booting an installer DVD to build a new hard drive, it can take quite a while for the DVD to load and hangs until it then goes through its motions.
  19. trencherfield
    You can certainly add those extra caps. Have done this myself on boards. It actually has two benefits. The extra capacitance will improve the ripple and available peak current draw. Secondly, adding capacitors in parallel lowers the equivalent series resistance further.
  20. trencherfield
    Conexant encoders are versions 1.0 to 1.3, not 1.4. Version 1.4 consoles use the Focus encoder.
  21. trencherfield
    Remember when people used to trash the 121 boards (1.6) and rip the ram off. Used to annoy the hell out of me back then. How things have changed. Great work.
  22. trencherfield
    Try removing the contents of both the E:\CACHE contents and X, Y and Z drive contents as a last resort. Sometimes these have been known to cause problems. Then try fitting a different hard drive (any IDE suitable hard drive) and using an installer DVD to see if that works. If no joy, then move onto the DVD drive/BIOS etc.
  23. trencherfield
    Yes it could well be. There are cache folders, when a game or app is launched. So if it can't write to cache etc it probably will cause issues. Kaos prolly knows more as I do more hardware than software stuff. I normally throw the original drive in the bin and slap a new bigger hard drive in so I don't run into these issues really. Try freeing up more space on the drive or fit a new larger drive in there since you have a modchip already installed anyway. Going to need to do it anyway in the long run. If that doesn't fix it then it may be a DVD/ATA issue, but can check that afterwards, since the L-Frame is intact it points to the hard drive or DVD drive now. Make space on the hard drive first.
  24. trencherfield
    Whilst probably not causing the issues you are experiencing, that capacitor along with the others there inc the CPU caps would be wise to replace. If you get no joy with another DVD drive, then probably best to pull the motherboard and change the cap/s. (Fair warning, they are a pain to do for most people) Yeah try another BIOS. Also the hard drive files may have become corrupted if the hard drive is on it's way out, another possibility, even though the dash loads. Check the L-Frame trace visually to see if that's been cut by the modchip installer previously. With an xbox like this it's a matter of just weeding out probabilities one by one and seeing what, if any, improves the situation.
  25. trencherfield
    This is what you were originally asking for and has already been added for you. If you are expecting somebody to sit there and build you a perfect prebuilt complete image including games and emulators that you’re now asking for, then that ain't happening buddy. Apart from the fact we can’t either legally link or slap that on here. As Mikey has already told you, that 2TB image is a mess and the main reason these new XBMC Origin skin versions have been made. If you insist on still using that again then you’ll have to search and download that yourself elsewhere.

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