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Gotcha. I’ll swap the olds back in and see what it does. If it works I’ll order replacements for them specifically.

thanks MadMartigan You can just keep one probe held flat across the whole row of leads as shown on the left side of this pic, and test those exposed metal points on the white connector one by one with the other probe. If you don't get continuity with a given wire or if the reading goes on/off while flexing the group of wires around (not too much flexing) that means it's bad. I suggested this because my xbox had your same problem a couple years ago and I needed to replace multiple wires there. If you don't have broken wires, at least you'll have eliminated that possibility.

If you’re comfortable with the task and the others weren’t damaged during removal, then yes. I can take a pic of one of my boards if it’ll help you locate where they’re supposed to go. Then replace all of the silver caps that are bunch together in that pic of the PSU area. 10v is fine to replace a lower voltage. Just never drop down below.

You think those caps won’t work there and thats my issue? Everything worked before I swapped them but I was worried about that leaking long term. However I am definitely willing to put in different ones if those won’t work obviously.

Nothing wrong with recapping an entire board if you want. In this case, you just recapped the wrong caps lol

Turn the dial to the same setting as in the picture. Then press the function button until it matches mine also. After that, you touch your red probe tip to one end of the trace you’re testing, and the black probe tip to the desired destination. You should either hear your multimeter make a beep, or show you a reading on the screen. If no reading or beep, there is no continuity.

I did not. I replaced the bottom two because they were rated the same and one of them was starting to leak.

Did you not replace the silver caps next to the PSU? Those that are shown in the very last picture above. Those are typically the ones to replace first as they’re prone to blow and cause multiple issues. Those and the clock cap of course.

Here is a birds eye view. I’m really hoping I didn’t kill the motherboard.

Here is a view of the old vs the new.

So I checked the polarity and had it right thankfully but that was my initial thought. here are the caps. It worked initially but then got jailbars after a game booted. Now the eject button is flashing red and orange… definitely not what I was hoping for haha

Please forgive the assumption, but have you checked the polarity of the caps you installed? Also, do you have information on exactly what capacitors you used?

So I replaced my capacitors as suggested on my V1 motherboard due to leaking on the clock cap. Video had no problems before but now the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal. Help me out please. Novice here so any pros would be greatly appreciated lol note I replaced the three 16V 1500 and two 10v3300 caps.

Alright, I got my hands on a multimeter as shown below. Now I apologize for being a complete noob, however I need instructions on what exactly to make contact with the multimeter with and what reading indicates that something is dysfunctional. Thanks

I recently found this PSU adapter inside a EU 1.4. Out of all the xboxes I've popped open, I've never seen one of these before. Anyone else?

Ahhh ok.. Didn't realise that, not sure I still have them all.... I will have a look and see what I still have.

All good advice. I did wanna share personally that I absolutely LOVE bearing whine, probably because I grew up in the 90s when things were nice and loud... and HDD clicky. Also, the weight distribution with a mechanical drive makes the console feel more balanced against the DVD drive and feel "right". Having an SSD makes it feel like something is "missing"... but this is just me. To each their own.

I need the source files, I wilL rebuild them before putting them in the installer. and when the full source it up again, they will be included.

Almost any drive will work well and be speedy, but I would stay away from any drives referred to as designed for surveillance applications, and avoid WD Greens because they may cause stutter. 5400RPM drives are quietest. 7200RPM can be quiet too but they can also be super noisy with bearing whine, seek noise and vibration. IMO the ideal drives are SSHDs. I've used a few and they are all quiet and fast. I have a 2TB Seagate desktop SSHD (ST2000DX001) at the moment.

All the art on that thread are full _resources packs. I've been using your Photoshop templates, Artwork builder bat files, Video resizer etc so "most" of them should be good to go. There may be some that are missing a preview.mp4 or a screenshot. I have tried to use correct title id's etc in the default.xml files. You shouldn't need to build any of it yourself as I have done it all already Most of the packs should be good to go, some of the homebrew ones I may need to adjust the default.xml with a correct title id or similar. If you do see any that have a wonky info in the xml then let me know and I will get to fixing it asap. Most of those packs have been downloaded by multiple users here and general feedback has been good, so hopefully they will be up to your standards Sample packs attached here XCAT.7z Zelda 3.7z

If they are up to par with what I have then sure I can add them. but i would need all images + a resource .XMLs with title, titleid etc… all named for the source artwork bat files to process (-T, -MB etc…) As I won’t be adding them any time soon if I need to do all that. I added an example set of how things should be setup for the source material. 1753390226_Artwork-Apps-Dashs.zip

Lol, ok. I did thing that maybe the answer for all those tbf. Limitations of XBMC itself I suppose. For 3. I did try adding a dummy .xbe to the folders root but that just made things worse lol, maybe I have to rethink the way I do my setup Either that or just stick to the view I have at the mo Thanks anyway Whilst I have your attention... Will there be any updates to the Artwork Installer? Just wondered as if you wee going to add any of my customs from the thread here then I would remove them from that thread once they are part of the official installer. That threads 1st post is getting a little cluttered now

No not possible. No root view isn’t treated like games. like the rest no some views are for xbe content only as they use custom artwork. the way resources are added is when an xbe is found the path to the resources is stored in the db file. Folders aren’t stored in the db file only xbe content.

If you don't have soldering experience then I'd highly recommend you practice on practice or dead boards. These traces are miniscule.