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Question about Trace Repairs


Zac_The_Guy
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Soon I'm gonna try and repair the traces on my Xbox. I've done my fair share of soldering in the past, and I don't think it's gonna be too hard. The only question I have is about what I have to solder. It seems I need to solder 4 points, but do I really? The power button still sorta works, and the Red LED light still works as well. Could someone give me a nice tutorial? Thanks!

EDIT: Hold up, I was just watching this Xbox Repair video, and they turned it on showing the power board. But when it turned on, two of the LED Lights showed up. and they were both Green. I though that one was red and one was green! So if that's the case, why the hell would the red work but not the green!? 

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57 minutes ago, Zac_The_Guy said:

Soon I'm gonna try and repair the traces on my Xbox. I've done my fair share of soldering in the past, and I don't think it's gonna be too hard. The only question I have is about what I have to solder. It seems I need to solder 4 points, but do I really? The power button still sorta works, and the Red LED light still works as well. Could someone give me a nice tutorial? Thanks!

EDIT: Hold up, I was just watching this Xbox Repair video, and they turned it on showing the power board. But when it turned on, two of the LED Lights showed up. and they were both Green. I though that one was red and one was green! So if that's the case, why the hell would the red work but not the green!? 

The LEDs are bi-color LEDs. Two anodes (one for each color) and one common cathode (ground).

I would just follow each lead and attach to the vias at the ends of their traces. You can also solder to the traces after where the corrosion has visibly eaten the traces and broken them, your choice. But the mounting will be shittier and you will not have much surface area to attach to.

 

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1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

The LEDs are bi-color LEDs. Two anodes (one for each color) and one common cathode (ground).

I would just follow each lead and attach to the vias at the ends of their traces. You can also solder to the traces after where the corrosion has visibly eaten the traces and broken them, your choice. But the mounting will be shittier and you will not have much surface area to attach to.

 

Thanks mate! I think I’ll just use my multimeter and if no signal comes out, I’ll clean it, but if that doesn't work I’ll solder. 

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