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Capacitor replacement issue


J_Shot626
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So I replaced my capacitors as suggested on my V1 motherboard due to leaking on the clock cap. Video had no problems before but now the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal. Help me out please. Novice here so any pros would be greatly appreciated lol

 

note I replaced the three 16V 1500 and two 10v3300 caps.

Edited by J_Shot626
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39 minutes ago, J_Shot626 said:

So I replaced my capacitors as suggested on my V1 motherboard due to leaking on the clock cap. Video had no problems before but now the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal. Help me out please. Novice here so any pros would be greatly appreciated lol

 

note I replaced the three 16V 1500 and two 10v3300 caps.

Please forgive the assumption, but have you checked the polarity of the caps you installed? Also, do you have information on exactly what capacitors you used?

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8 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Please forgive the assumption, but have you checked the polarity of the caps you installed? Also, do you have information on exactly what capacitors you used?

So I checked the polarity and had it right thankfully but that was my initial thought. 
 

here are the caps. It worked initially but then got jailbars after a game booted. Now the eject button is flashing red and orange… definitely not what I was hoping for haha

IMG_0032.png

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Did you not replace the silver caps next to the PSU? Those that are shown in the very last picture above. Those are typically the ones to replace first as they’re prone to blow and cause multiple issues. Those and the clock cap of course. 

Edited by MadMartigan
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Just now, MadMartigan said:

Did you not replace the silver caps next to the PSU? Those that are shown in the very last picture above. 

I did not. I replaced the bottom two because they were rated the same and one of them was starting to leak.

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You think those caps won’t work there and thats my issue? Everything worked before I swapped them but I was worried about that leaking long term. However I am definitely willing to put in different ones if those won’t work obviously.

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If you’re comfortable with the task and the others weren’t damaged during removal, then yes. I can take a pic of one of my boards if it’ll help you locate where they’re supposed to go. Then replace all of the silver caps that are bunch together in that pic of the PSU area. 10v is fine to replace a lower voltage. Just never drop down below. 

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39 minutes ago, MadMartigan said:

If you’re comfortable with the task and the others weren’t damaged during removal, then yes. I can take a pic of one of my boards if it’ll help you locate where they’re supposed to go. Then replace all of the silver caps that are bunch together in that pic of the PSU area. 10v is fine to replace a lower voltage. Just never drop down below. 

Gotcha. I’ll swap the olds back in and see what it does. If it works I’ll order replacements for them specifically.

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1 hour ago, MadMartigan said:

If you’re comfortable with the task and the others weren’t damaged during removal, then yes. I can take a pic of one of my boards if it’ll help you locate where they’re supposed to go. Then replace all of the silver caps that are bunch together in that pic of the PSU area. 10v is fine to replace a lower voltage. Just never drop down below. 

So I tossed in the old ones but no luck. Unfortunately the ends were short so it was a struggle for sure. Still getting orange and red on the eject button and no video.

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2 hours ago, J_Shot626 said:

So I tossed in the old ones but no luck. Unfortunately the ends were short so it was a struggle for sure. Still getting orange and red on the eject button and no video.

That's a RAM error too... Orange and red.

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6 hours ago, FrostyMaGee said:

Would probably be worth going over the mobo and check for any solder splashes/bridges and see if that might be causing the current orange red boot up. Since you’ve been soldering and all. Just thought I’d throw it out there. 

Yeah I looked up the red/orange and saw it was a ram issue. The odd thing was that it sometimes tosses green in there too. Like flickers between green and orange for a couple seconds. Then goes red/orange. Not all the time though.
 

Also could you all explain to me why you think the 3300 10v caps wouldn’t work there. Looking at the old caps and according to the wiki interactive board that should be what goes there. Unfortunately I have to get new ones either way (beyond the leaking one that needs replaced) cause the legs are damaged and or/very short.

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3 hours ago, J_Shot626 said:

Also could you all explain to me why you think the 3300 10v caps wouldn’t work there. Looking at the old caps and according to the wiki interactive board that should be what goes there. Unfortunately I have to get new ones either way (beyond the leaking one that needs replaced) cause the legs are damaged and or/very short.

I don't see where anyone said they wouldn't work. As I mentioned earlier, it's perfectly fine to recap the entire board. I have several that have been fully recapped. In your case, you just replaced the wrong caps for your issue.

Think of it like taking your car to the shop due to bad front brakes and they replace your rear brakes instead. Of course they're new brakes, but it's not doing anything to fix the front set. Hope that doesn't make things more confusing. 

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4 hours ago, MadMartigan said:

I don't see where anyone said they wouldn't work. As I mentioned earlier, it's perfectly fine to recap the entire board. I have several that have been fully recapped. In your case, you just replaced the wrong caps for your issue.

Think of it like taking your car to the shop due to bad front brakes and they replace your rear brakes instead. Of course they're new brakes, but it's not doing anything to fix the front set. Hope that doesn't make things more confusing. 

Gotcha. I guess my confusion comes from that my current issue started after I swapped the caps. I’ll definitely swap out the five silver 6.3v ones as you suggested. I was just verifying if using those 10v ones where I did would be an issue. Since you don’t seem to think that is an issue then I grow concerned as to what potential damage I did to the mobo when I swapped them lol. I hope I didn’t mess anything up but it seems possible to me at this point if the caps were fine there. Reason being as I said, it worked before I touched anything…

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1 hour ago, J_Shot626 said:

Gotcha. I guess my confusion comes from that my current issue started after I swapped the caps. I’ll definitely swap out the five silver 6.3v ones as you suggested. I was just verifying if using those 10v ones where I did would be an issue. Since you don’t seem to think that is an issue then I grow concerned as to what potential damage I did to the mobo when I swapped them lol. I hope I didn’t mess anything up but it seems possible to me at this point if the caps were fine there. Reason being as I said, it worked before I touched anything…

Whenever you think caps need to be replaced, ALWAYS do a full recap of the device in question. As long as you're paying shipping, capacitors are cheap, and you don't want a mix of freshly replaced caps and caps that will need to soon be replaced all side by side with each other. Clean slate. :)

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1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Whenever you think caps need to be replaced, ALWAYS do a full recap of the device in question. As long as you're paying shipping, capacitors are cheap, and you don't want a mix of freshly replaced caps and caps that will need to soon be replaced all side by side with each other. Clean slate. :)

Gotcha. Well I guess I’ll be ordering new caps for the fella. lol hopefully that fixes my issues.

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4 hours ago, J_Shot626 said:

Gotcha. I guess my confusion comes from that my current issue started after I swapped the caps. I’ll definitely swap out the five silver 6.3v ones as you suggested. I was just verifying if using those 10v ones where I did would be an issue. Since you don’t seem to think that is an issue then I grow concerned as to what potential damage I did to the mobo when I swapped them lol. I hope I didn’t mess anything up but it seems possible to me at this point if the caps were fine there. Reason being as I said, it worked before I touched anything…

Gotcha. 
 

As for caps you were on spec for those. Just as a helpful note…you always go up a bit in voltage and microfarad but should never go below on either. The biggest constraint from going up in voltage usually comes from space. Higher voltage equals larger capacitor. For your silver cpu caps there are five to replace and those are 1500 microfarad 6.3 volts and they are 10mm diameter by 20mm height (though you can make 23-25mm in height work if need be). I’d have to look but I believe the lead spacing is 5-6mm. 
 

I would still give it a close once over to make sure there aren’t any solder splashes/bridges anywhere. Maybe even a good cleaning with a soft bristled brush and some 99 percent ipa. Hopefully you’ll be able to resolve the issues all around. We are all happy to help out as you’re working through it though. :D 

Edited by FrostyMaGee
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On 5/13/2024 at 3:32 PM, J_Shot626 said:

the video gets a bit intermittent/bars on the screen and the sound starts to squeal

This sounds similar to a problem with my xbox a couple years back. When you were tilting the mainboard to remove it from the case, did the audio-video port get snagged on the port hole and flex the board at all? With my board the problem was a bad joint or joints around the port. Just throwing this idea out there.

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2 hours ago, fox said:

This sounds similar to a problem with my xbox a couple years back. When you were tilting the mainboard to remove it from the case, did the audio-video port get snagged on the port hole and flex the board at all? With my board the problem was a bad joint or joints around the port. Just throwing this idea out there.

I’ll definitely take a look at them. I could certainly see that being possible. They are old and something could need a reflow especially after I took it in and out a few times. Thanks for the idea. I’m willing to try anything at the moment haha

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4 hours ago, fox said:

This sounds similar to a problem with my xbox a couple years back. When you were tilting the mainboard to remove it from the case, did the audio-video port get snagged on the port hole and flex the board at all? With my board the problem was a bad joint or joints around the port. Just throwing this idea out there.

If that's the case, then I've been lucky. I've had A/V snags all the time when removing the mobo, especially during RAM installs.

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