Zac_The_Guy Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 My Xbox's power button is really weird. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it just doesn't. Not only that, but the green LED Light on it does not work (The Red does however). At first, I assumed it was the traces, but if the Red Light works, then it has to be the power board, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMartigan Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 It is possible for them to get wonky. It's tough to say whether that's definitely the problem or not. The best test would be to source another board and see if it behaves the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 6 hours ago, Zac_The_Guy said: My Xbox's power button is really weird. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it just doesn't. Not only that, but the green LED Light on it does not work (The Red does however). At first, I assumed it was the traces, but if the Red Light works, then it has to be the power board, right? It's trace rot. There are positive leads for everything. The green sides of the LEDs ( are not getting positive power and your power button is also severed, probably on the positive side (I'm unclear what has its own negative leads and what has both a positive and a negative. Take a look here. I've done it (trace rebuild based on what I determined to be severed), but it was tedious and time consuming https://www.overclock.net/threads/need-help-xbox-power-eject-power-requirements-leds.401555/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMartigan Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Very possible it's just the board and not trace rot. Best to test before jumping to conclusions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac_The_Guy Posted May 6 Author Report Share Posted May 6 (edited) 10 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said: It's trace rot. There are positive leads for everything. The green sides of the LEDs ( are not getting positive power and your power button is also severed, probably on the positive side (I'm unclear what has its own negative leads and what has both a positive and a negative. Take a look here. I've done it (trace rebuild based on what I determined to be severed), but it was tedious and time consuming https://www.overclock.net/threads/need-help-xbox-power-eject-power-requirements-leds.401555/ Thanks for the link! That can be useful. The thing is the power button sometimes works. After I did some cleaning, it started to work again. And I was always able to power it off, just not on. I was forced to press the eject button to turn it on. Sometimes the power button would work to turn it on after it sat down and cooled off for awhile. And sometimes it would try to power on, and then just power back off! It’s never powered itself off. It’s so weird! Plus, the Appendix (Clock Cap) didn’t leak around that area. I actually already bought the new power board, so I’ll test it just to make sure, but it could be the traces. Edited May 6 by Zac_The_Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowlsnapper Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 1 hour ago, Zac_The_Guy said: Thanks for the link! That can be useful. The thing is the power button sometimes works. After I did some cleaning, it started to work again. And I was always able to power it off, just not on. I was forced to press the eject button to turn it on. Sometimes the power button would work to turn it on after it sat down and cooled off for awhile. And sometimes it would try to power on, and then just power back off! It’s never powered itself off. It’s so weird! Plus, the Appendix (Clock Cap) didn’t leak around that area. I actually already bought the new power board, so I’ll test it just to make sure, but it could be the traces. You may be able to try some contact cleaner on the switch with the panel PCB removed, or if you can solder, replace the switch entirely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac_The_Guy Posted May 6 Author Report Share Posted May 6 I mean if I already bought it, might as well put in the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrostyMaGee Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Agreed. Since you have access to one you could plug in to the mobo to test (with the Xbox components kind of temporarily assembled and out of the way) if the switch is actually the problem. That would be the easiest way. If you have zero problems there then you can assume it’s the switch and proceed to replacing it. If the problem still exists with the new switch then you can assume it’s lies within the power rails on the mobo most likely. I have a few spare known good switches that I use for this purpose all the time. It’s usually the first thing I check when similar power issues arise since it takes so little time to do and I don’t have to take the entire console apart to test it. That comes later. Lol 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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