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This is a little project I worked on from October 2024 to January 2025 with help from Skye and HoneySoakedSegull. Original idea by Siktah (he had been nagging me about this for a year). Before anyone comments or asks, yes this just transfers the solder skill requirement from the repair person to the board assembler/merchant. This isn't something everyone needs, and I think it's rather pointless, as I just do my own trace repairs. That being said; not everyone has precision soldering equipment, not everyone has fantastic magnification to do their solder work, and not everyone has the effort for traditional front panel trace fixes. Without further ado I present Hugin and Munin trace fix cards and the D0-ET board. Siktah and I entered these as an exhibition entry into Xbox-Scene Modfest 2024: https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles/xbox-scene-modfest-2024-celebrating-homebrew-innovation-and-the-modding-scene-for-xbox-xbox-360-xbox-one-and-xbox-series-x-r54/ The boards are to be used in pairs, 1x Hugin (A) board and 1x Munin (B) board per repair. all 1.0 and 1.1 boards use one set of boards, all 1.2-1.6 boards use a different set. They require a 25cm ish 0.5mm pitch, 4-pin flex cable to jump between the two boards, and you only enable the trace repairs you require on the Munin (B) board. The flex connector must be folded 90 degrees one time to for the contacts to like up correctly. The red front panel LED is the least likely trace to fail, but it also doesn't have nearby "friendly" test points either. So a wire going from the RED pad on the B board to an alternate test point on the motherboard will be required. Unfortunately some boards don't have an easy to solder test point for the Red LED, so it may be easiest to solder right to the SMC. I am currently writing up install instructions and gathering fresh board images for every board rev. Here are some early "quick and dirty" images for 1.4 and 1.6: I made the FPC connectors quite large to support a huge variety of connectors, though I do include documentation on the bottom of each PCB for the needed resistors and a compatible FPC connector. You can also use top only, bottom only, or top+bottom FPC connectors as long as you use a "reverse direction" flex cable with one set of contacts on the top, and one set of contacts on the bottom if you use top or bottom only FPC connectors. As an added bonus, EqUiNoX repeatedly requested a simple, multifunction D0 board. So alongside Hugin and Munin I designed D0-ET as part of this set. Aside from protecting your D0 point from accidental damage from pulling on a wire the D0-ET (pronounced duet) has 3 possible functions: grounding out the D0 point directly giving a larger pad to solder to, to connect to a modchip with a simple D0 pad like an OpenXenium, ModXo boards, or an X2 / X3 wire harness giving a JST-SH 1.0mm 2-pin connector to connect directly to a modchip like Xenium Ice, Xenium Gold, or various ModXo boards An earlier (less well fitting) revision of this board can be seen installed on the 1.4 motherboard picture above. I am finally learning more about git and specifically github with the release of the Skeleton Key branded USB adapters (based of xbox7887's USB adapter, with support, permission and an overly permissive license). https://github.com/OGXHarcroft/Xbox-Skeleton-Key-USB-Adapter The gerbers for all 5 of these boards are already on the Xbox-Scene discord in the Modfest channel as of roughly 6 months ago and some sellers have already started selling them. Hugin and Munin FP Trace Fix boards are also coming soon to a github near you!
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Hopefully this message is in the right group Today I updated my ISO files to CCI format. I understand that all the artwork is now gone, so I regenerated it using the latest version artwork downloader. However, I’m now getting zero boxart files downloaded. Could this be because the filenames now include tags like (USA), (PAL), or (JP)? (see attachemnts) Lots of artwork is downloaded but the box and disc is missing somehow! What went wrong for me? if the TAG is the problem, i will remove the tag by this scipt (i think this is okay right?) @echo off setlocal enabledelayedexpansion :: Ask the user for the string to remove set /p delstr=Enter the string to remove from filenames: :: Loop through all files in the current folder that contain the string for %%f in (*%delstr%*) do ( set "oldname=%%f" set "newname=!oldname:%delstr%=!" ren "%%f" "!newname!" echo Renamed: %%f -> !newname! ) echo. echo Done
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no one replied to this in the repair section so i decided i'd try it here in the hopes that more people see it. 720p and 1080i look beautiful. i've tried the xbox2hdmi adapter and the xedusa one on it. both seem to have issues. they show up better on xedusa because it is a more crisp picture. i'm trying to think of how to describe the issues. 480p has little distortion lines that keep popping up in random places. they can mainly be seen when there is some kind of text one the screen. 480 has those distortions plus it has constant vertical lines through the pic. anyway, what would cause this? bad capicitors somewhere? i have already replaced the clock cap and the 5 in front of the processors and that reminded me i'm not as good at replacing caps as i used to be. it was not fun and i really don't want to risk ruining a trace or something if i try to recap the whole board. so is there any special caps i need to pay close attention to?
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I'm thinking about buying a modded Xbox, and then maybe starting to learn how to mod them myself so I can save the Xboxes of friends and family. When they play, they would just likely play party games like Splinter Cell or Halo via system link. I have been casually looking at this stuff for years now, but am still kind of overwhelmed with all the options and which are best. The few things that seem most important to me is: change/remove clock capacitors, change the hdd keys to 1111111/back the keys up, soft/hard mod so the Xbox is usable after the dvd-drive fails, and some kind of controller chip or dongle that lets you use non-OG-xbox controllers. Besides all that though, some mods don't seem as worth spending the money on. I'm not convinced so far that a RAM upgrade is really "needed" for most people that would only be running retail Xbox games. I've seen there are people who have installed Noctua fans and stuff like that to damper the noise, but I don't think they run any better than OG - they're just quieter. Seems like many OG xbox mods sell for a while and then aren't sold anymore - like the wifi kit. In terms of modern TV connections, I guess electronxout seems good enough. I've seen mention of hard-modded Xboxes running hotter than softmod, so should I want to try to find a stronger fan to use internally, or is it a non-issue? I've also noticed that there are often face plate chips that display the temp, so that makes me think there is some validity to the overheating... Could someone please help break it down for me and suggest a list of things I should want in the modded xboxes, and more than that - if anyone here would sell the whole package? I have looked around a lot online but I don't feel like most sellers sell everything that I might be wanting in one package. Like - if they are not someone who mods the console themselves, they often times don't know if the capacitors were replaced/removed (so - I don't know how much longer I'd have with the new ones). I also think some of those low profile cases would be really cool - if they wouldn't get in the way of any better fan setup (if there even is a need). Edit: I figure I can get a soft mod kit (flash drive + Xbox USB adapter) for now as a simple fix for people that still care about their Xboxes... change and/or backup the HDD keys. I did glance over the wiki, did reading here & on Reddit, and talked to chatgpt to try to narrow things down a bit. Please let me know if I can further improve here. Again, I don't think most people in my circle would care about the RAM upgrade. Unless I'm missing something, it's more for playing other games - but those games still may not run as well as OEM. -
i recapped the entire foxlink psu with rubycon caps of the exact uf needed. i also purchased a delta psu to see if the different brand would change anything and it did not. i recapped the entire motherboard except for about 5 of the 22uf caps. i used rubycon on everything except the five in front of the processors. i used 5 nichicon polymer caps there. i soldered a wire to each screw hole of the psu and soldered one wire to the metal outer shell and one to a screw hole on the motherboard(to make sure it was all grounded well). i also recently tried disconnecting the power cables from the dvd drive and harddrive to see if those caused any issues. there was no change. i have an open xenuim chip on it and on a 1.6v. i also have the same bioses on both(evo and cerbios). the 1.6 has a perfectly clear and crisp pic. it is flawless when i boot with cerbios. but i just cannot get rid of the interference on the 1.1v. i'm using the xedusa+ hdmi adapter. i have already tried exchanging it for another one and have the exact same problem. i also have the official microsoft hd pack and have tried it and still get interference on it. about the only thing that does not give me interference is a monster xbox hd cable but, i do not like the color display when i use that cable. the interference on the xedusa is usually in the form of diagonal or vertical lines that run across the screen during 480p output. 720p and 1080i seem to be fine. any and all tips and help is appreciated! even a good educated guess would be appreciated! oh, and i also have the same problems with unmodified 1.0 xboxs. -
Hello together, I received a new xbox with following Problems. it automaticaly turns on when lt la plugged ln Error code 5 Sometimes there it does boot into the dashboard Xbox does have a modchip, but l can’t identify which one it is. How can I repair/fix this issue. Already saw one wire is broken, will try to fix it. -
FATXplorer is a great tool and I will eventually get a license, but I have no funds right now and am currently looking for a temporary free solution to browse through the files of an HDD. -
I hit the right thumbstick and it pulls up a menu that says "Exit game" but once you hit that option there's nothing to go directly back to Emustation; but only to restart the Xbox back to the dashboard. Am I missing something? -
I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how. -
Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with an original xbox that will turn on, with a solid green light for a second, then turn itself off. Then back on with an orange blinking light, then turn itself off and on again until finally staying on with a blinking orange light with it's fan running 100% speed, this would indicate some sort of FRAG and some other issue. Unlike other times in that situation where it's normally a temperature sensor failing where it will shut down, this doesn't turn off. The power button doesn't seem to have any effect after turning on. Holding does nothing. It's a 1.1 revision board. The temperature sensor area is clean with minimal clock cap leakage, and the Xbox is otherwise tidy. It's got an xecuter x2 lite. Disabling via the switch on the front panel to the chip does nothing. Soldering looks tidy. I notice there's no D0 grounding underneath. There is a wire directly from the chip to ground though. Where to from here? Should I put on a D0 and see if that changes anything. Should I then remove the chip and see if we're able to boot if the first step doesn't help?
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PCB files and BIOS patcher can be found on github: https://github.com/Prehistoricman/Xbox256MB/tree/master Upgraded Xblast OS can be found on bitbucket: README and Downloads The new Xblast OS comes with a RAMTESTER variant that lets you test the stock set of 4 chips. This can be useful even for a typical 128MB mod when things go wrong and the Xbox won't boot normal Xblast. MachoNacho already did a tutorial on installing this upgrade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2hvSL30Rlg So here's a brief tutorial for installation. Tutorial Be aware this is an advanced mod and while it does grant quadruple the memory, there is a performance disadvantage. The memory clock speed must be reduced to make this memory stable (this is handled in my BIOS patcher). Tools required: Hot air station (recommended for removing stock chips) Precision soldering station Microscope suitable for soldering Flux Solder Solder wick IPA Multimeter Hardmodded Xbox Spare Xbox to be able to reflash your modchip if necessary Steps: Flash the Xblast OS 0.63 RAMTESTER 256Mbit BIOS to your modchip If your modchip has only one bank, you can still access the normal Xblast menus by pressing eject to power on the Xbox. If your modchip runs an OS BIOS (like PrometheOS, Xenium or Xblast), patch it and flash it first Remove the stock memory chips. Use hot air to desolder it - I like to place tinfoil on the board to protect the other components and plastic from the heat. Or just cut the pins if you don't care about the stock memory chips. Solder in the new memory modules Start with bank 1 in the stock memory layout. See this diagram Precisely align the module on the motherboard Solder 1 pin in a corner to anchor the module Make sure you get the orientation right. There is an arrow in the corner of the module that should align with a dot on the motherboard. That's pin 1. Solder the opposite pin Check the orientation again! I got this wrong twice :((( Solder the rest of the pins on the module Power on the Xbox to test it with the BIOS If you got it right, the LED code will indicate that bank 2 has failed. See README for LED codes. If the LED code shows bank 1 failed, there may be a short circuit or open circuit. Check your soldering. If the Xbox powers off very quickly and doesn't reboot, you have a short circuit. Check your soldering. If the Xbox reboots 3x and FRAGs, there may be a short circuit or open circuit. Check your soldering. Repeat for banks 2, 3, 4 in order. Try booting Xblast using the eject button, or any other 256MB compatible BIOS. Install the rest of the banks, using the memory test in Xblast OS's Tools menu to check if they are working. Flash a 256MB compatible BIOS X2 and X3 BIOSes are known to work and have the full 256MB usable Cerbios support is not good yet, but they are working on it. EvoX will boot, but needs additional patches to be able to use the extra memory. Do nothing with the additional memory Interposer assembly One way to do this upgrade is to buy the loose memory chips and interposer PCBs and assemble them. You need to be confident with BGA soldering. The memory chip is HY5DU573222F-28 which you can find on Alibaba and maybe other places too. The -28 is the speed bin and I don't recommend going any slower such as -33. The interposer PCB designs are on Github and I've included gerbers in the release suitable for ordering from PCBWay.
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720p and 1080i look beautiful. i've tried the xbox2hdmi adapter and the xedusa one on it. both seem to have issues. they show up better on xedusa because it is a more crisp picture. i'm trying to think of how to describe the issues. 480p has little distortion lines that keep popping up in random places. they can mainly be seen when there is some kind of text one the screen. 480 has those distortions plus it has constant vertical lines through the pic. anyway, what would cause this? bad capicitors somewhere? i have already replaced the clock cap and the 5 in front of the processors and that reminded me i'm not as good at replacing caps as i used to be. it was not fun and i really don't want to risk ruining a trace or something if i try to recap the whole board. so is there any special caps i need to pay close attention to?
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So long, and goodnight. RIP to an HDD with 9 years of uptime
SkippinMidkipz posted a topic in Repair
After over 2 decades of loyal service, and over 9 years of uptime, My first modded xbox's HDD finally bit the dust. Super sad to loose all the save data, and the treasure trove of Homebrew/Emulation, but I am actively working on recovering what I can. There is a chance that the drive hasn't totally failed yet, although that is an exceedingly slim chance. (The wiper and platter sound like Neil Peart) The Xbox does boot into evox, although it has the stability of a Jenga tower stacked on one brick. I've read that aside from chimp, and ftp, some people have had success with block by block recovery methods. Has anyone tried gddrescue? (bash) I do have a backup of the eeprom.bin, and its entirely possible that my usb dock isn't playing nice with the drive. So I'm about to try one of my IDE PCI cards, or one of my legacy systems with onboard IDE. Just dont want to waste time installing windows if I don't have to (I'm allergic to telemetry) -
Hi there, I've bought a crystal OG Xbox (which is in amazing condition), but unfortunately it won't launch any games or apps that stored on its hdd. It has got what looks like an Xecuter 2.6 or 2.6CE modchip. The console launches into UnleashX on either bank, with Xecuter 2.6 However, it won't launch any of the games which have been copied to the HDD. A splash screens appears (Xbox logo + game title), goes fuzzy momentarily, the same splash screen appears off-centre, and it returns to the Unleash menu The box won't run discs (official games, or Ogxbox installer discs) when in unleashx Won't launch official discs from msdash when chip is disabled Won't run most applications from Unleashx and also returns to the main Unleashx menu after (though it will run some bios apps, XCAT etc.) All the above turn the power LED on the Xbox red So, what to do, please? Do I need to reflash the modchip (after backing up the EEPROM)? Would flashing Cerbios, using Xblast, via FTP be best? Or could something else be the cause? And/or do I need to replace the DVD drive? I have been running XCAT on it today, maybe there will be something interesting on it. Many thanks! -
I'm simply curious. As I read and understand it the BIOS and kernel (in an unmodded vanilla MS Xbox) are both stored on the flash chip. To flash it with a custom bios I have to make it writable... How did MS update the kernel then back in the day? The dash I can understand since it's just a file on the harddrive.
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Hello, So i have this issue with my OG Xbox 1.6: after installing Cerbios v2.4.2 (i tried different revisions and it's the same - but it doesn't do that with EvoX 8+, so it's not an hardware issue) some games have a noticeable warping in the upper part of the screen, and in others, like Conker Live&Reloaded, the screen remains black after the first loading screen. I'm using UnleashX dash with composite scart on a CRT and these games are set to PAL (60) or NTSC-J, for example Unreal Championship or Metal Wolf Chaos. Only if i set them to NTSC they don't have the warping issue, but i don't like the NTSC colors. Games like Halo 2, Morrowind, Doom 3 and Arx Fatalis works flawlessly if set on PAL. Are there any solutions to this issue?
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I've got a Series X that has network issues. WiFi doesn't see any available networks, and LAN reports its connected even though cable is disconnected. I've tried factory reset, to keep it without power for some time, but I had no luck. I saw someone pointing that ethernet controller (RTL8111HM) could be the issue. Would replacing RTL8111HM help, does it affect both LAN and WiFi? Console is also stuck at 640x480, could it be that the same chip is the issue?
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I was attempting to upgrade my friends 1.0 xbox to 128mb, after successfully installing the 2 ram chips on the top of the xbox and testing them one at a time with xblast, I moved onto the bottom. I installed the 3rd ram chip and tested it with xblast and it was flashing red and orange, so after going over all the ram chips with my soldering iron this problem persisted. So I took the xbox home with me and removed the 3rd ram chip with hot air, and I noticed that a capacitor was missing, specifically C5T7 on the 3rd ram slot. So after finding the schematic for the ram and finding a replacement for the capacitor I was hoping that would be the end of my problems but the red and orange still persisted. So now I've gone over all the ram chips with my soldering iron to make sure there's no bridging or anything else but im stumped. Whenever I try and use the Aladdin modchip with xblast it FRAG's and whenever I use my openxenium with promethos is flashes red and orange. I have a voltmeter, I have tried a different PSU, the video cables are connected, I have no idea what else to try. Any help would be amazing! Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/YFjPUnd
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Hi everyone. I'm posting now hoping to get some help with my Xbox. I haven't used it for 5 years and I took it out again 3 days ago and now it started doing what's in the video (link at the bottom): the image glitches and goes black. When this happens, the power and eject buttons do not work at all and the only way to turn it off is to unplug it from the socket. By the way, it's a v1.1 XBox. If anyone has any idea what could be the problem, I'd appreciate the help. Here's a link to a video showing the issue: https://streamable.com/rsie40
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No bugs in here, just questions.
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Hello, I have a xbox 1.4 motherboard. Clock cap of course had leaked however console worked fine. I disassembled the xbox to remove the cap and clean the area. I noted before i started that the diodes and resistors just north of the cap had taken the brunt of the leak. with the transistor in the Q7f4 position having its top leg detached from board. and as I said xbox still worked fine. well while cleaning the cap off that transistor fell off. I don't think I have much hope of re soldering it back at my skill level. So to my question, seeing how the xbox still worked with that transistor seemingly detached ( maybe it was still in contact and I couldn't tell?) I was curious is it part of the clock circuit? does it even need to be there if im not replacing the cap? IM trying to find anyone who knows definitely if it needs to be there or not for normal operation minus the clock. trying to find out before I attempt to power the board back up and harm it further. Thank you for your time. picture is not my board but one of the same 1.4 with the resistor im speaking of highlighted so anyone knows what one im talking about. -
Hi everyone, I have a 1.4 board that I bought loose. I bought a lot with several xboxes and they all have FRAG. Now I just want to try to fix this 1.4 so I bought a power supply that I received yesterday, the console turns on but has FRAG. I have a reader and a hard drive from another xbox that I can use to test. I have 2 aladdin chips but I don't know if they work. The power supply is tested and works. I have many rp2040 and I tried to program one but it doesn't work or I don't know how to make it work. The 1.4 board doesn't have bad tracks or swollen capacitors. I'm quite lost, I've never had an xbox with FRAG (50% green 50% red) without video and I don't know where to start. In the same lot there was a 1.1 xbox with the same symptoms, but in the end I sold it very cheap.
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new to ogxbox and thanks to everyone for a great and helpful forum.
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I bought a modded xbox a few years ago and I really enjoyed it. I got it out to test recently and it stopped working. Got a flashing red light on the power button and got this error message with a white number in the corner. Most of the time I tried it was a 12 but I got 7 a few times. Is there any way to fix this?
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Hi all, I’m new to the Xbox scene and Xbox modding, (I’m older) and was around before anyone had a mobile /smart phone or tv. I chipped ps1’s and ps2’s when they were originally released for my kids. I require clarification on the following Xbox identification and mod chip advice. one of my sons has given me an old unused Xbox one, (with external power supply) to clarify is this classed as an og Xbox? And secondly I would like to upgrade the hdd in the Xbox and hard wire a mod chip that self boots when the Xbox is switched on. can anyone help me with chip recommendations or advise how I can contact a uk seller? also if I go online with a chipped console will Microsoft ban my account ? im asking in a round about way can all chips be spotted by Microsoft? thanks in advance cozzie
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48