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At first I thought it was the processing into the XISO format or the XISO playback but I've recently bought an NTSC retail disc and I'm still have this issue on my NTSC console. TSOP modded , rev 1.4 Here are the only historical posts I could find about this - https://forums.operationsports.com/forums/espn-nfl-2k5-football/59228-big-problem-xbox-espn-nfl.html The 2003 Post from the first link, It makes no sense that forcing an NTSC game to PAL50 fixed his issue but moreover why am I having an issue with a NTSC game on my NTSC console? I don't have an unmodded console to test, unfortunately.

Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.

I messed up. Was fiddling around with configmagic trying to lock the HDD on my chipped Xbox 1.6 so I can transfer and use the HDD on my softmodded Xbox. I followed this guide here: https://www.biline.ca/xbox_uxe_hd2.htm I was able to update the EEPROM as stated and locked the HDD so it can be used on the softmodded Xbox. That worked fine. But now my chipped Xbox turns on but no picture or video whatsoever. I don't know what to do next...

Had a weird experience with my latest mod, an xbox 1.6 chipped with an Aladdin XT. First, the dvd drive has a terrible sticking problem I have been unable to fix so far. So, I swapped out dvd drive with another one from a parts xbox, oddly the new dvd drive will play official discs but seems not to read burned discs despite the modchip??? So, unable to boot Hexen I had to swap back to the original (sticky) drive in order to set up the new hdd. When I attempted to run my tried and true copy of Hexen 2017 the disc still refused to recognize at all for some reason (btw just wtf here, this disc has always worked on every other xbox I've modded - but now no), but a copy of Hexen 2018 did in fact boot right up. I went ahead with Hexen 2018 (although I prefer to use 2017 due to having some issue previously with 2018, I can't remember now just what..) and everything seemed to go okay... until I tried to set up hd video modes. I get this error, 'msdash.xbe does not exist' or something similar. Seems that does not get installed when you use Hexen 2018??? According to some thread this file IS included on Hexen 2017 which makes sense because I never had this issue before. Anyways, after all this I just got impatient and ftp'd a copy of msdash.xbe over from another previously modded xbox 1.6 running the same modchip and... now the machine errors out with hardware error 21 every time I try to run the ms dashboard. I feel like I'm starting to lose my mind, I actually already had a couple of other issues earlier on in this mod but got past them. I saw another suggestion to just download msdash.xbe from the internet but when I googled to download it there were like four different versions or something and I really just don't want to mess around anymore. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance if so...

Hey there everyone. I watched a video on YouTube on a Modded Xbox. During the initial startup of the Xbox, it shows an animation and a custom dashboard. Does anyone know how to add the animation before the menu shows up and how to customize the menu?? I have never seen this before except for this video. Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you. Here is a Link to the Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw91sVm2fkI&t=1s Starts at 8:03 minutes Thanks Again!!

So I’ve got an Xbox 1.0 that was opened before me when I got it. It flashes red and green after 3 reboots and I get no video please help!! 3 reboots and no video. I’ve changed a couple caps near the clock cap hoping it would be that but no luck. I removed clock capacitor cleaned the whole board with ipa and tested it and still no luck. Bought an Aladdin off eBay hooked it up and still nothing worked. Could someone have done a bad eeprom flash? I’ve ruled out the power supply already and even with the HDD and dvd drive unplugged it still doesn’t work. As far as I can tell the tsop points are not bridged . What else can I try to fix this?

conexant - jailbars on analog output, best component output. focus - looks good all round. xclibus - crap component, best analog output.

All, Is there somewhere where i can download video previews for all the og xbox games so that xbmc4gamers can play them? Thanks in advance!

Decided I would tear down my dev kit because there was a rattling noise inside of it and I wanted to see its guts. The rattling turned out to be the GPU fan, and I decided I should film its guts for everyone to see. Now if you don't have one, or don't want to open the one you've got, you can see inside, too! Pictures will come if I ever get a decent camera. If anyone has a Raptor card I can pair with it, please send me a PM. I don't actually know anything about developing games for the xbox, but I'd like to have a full kit in case I ever do start developing. I also might be willing to sell this to someone that wants to use it for its intended purpose. It's pretty worthless as a collectors item because it has no code on it, has a prominent cosmetic defect, and has been opened.

Hello, I have used the official component cable for my original Xbox for years without any issues, until now. This is what happens: https://youtu.be/RihPxD0JcB0 This only seems to happen on menu's. No problems in-game so far. At first, I thought the cable was damaged, so I bought a Kaico HDMI adapter to replace it, but this is what happens when I use it: https://youtu.be/iLw4o2IqtGE I decided to grab my older Xbox from the attic for testing and both cables work perfectly on that console, so I think the cables are not the issue. I'm no expert at all, so can somebody tell me what's going on with my console? Can it be fixed?

So I just installed a Aladdin xt chip today and powered on, no audio or video. Light on chip is on and light on eject button starts green and goes to green/red flashing. I cleaned it with alcohol and still nothing. Anyone know what the issue could be.

Hi Guys. I recently picked up a Halo Edition Original Xbox that has not been modded. It is completely stock. It powers on and has a solid green light around the eject button, however the drive will not eject and it does not output video or audio. I have tried both component cables as well as composite cables that work with another Xbox. I have also searched the web for help but have not come up with anything. Do you guys have any ideas as to what could be wrong? Could I possibly have bad video and audio output chips? Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions you might have.

Hello everyone! This is my first post, so apologies if it’s formatted incorrectly. I’m currently having a tough time trying to diagnose what could be causing my Xbox to output a wobbly video signal as seen here. I’ve tried -swapping power supplies -replacing the 5 caps near the cpu -giving the board and console a deep clean I’m thinking maybe it’s a grounding issue? Or perhaps the video encoding chip is about to die? Honestly I’m at a loss. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you guys.

My Xbox is not modded in any way. It has composite cables as well. My Xbox will occasionally boot up games normally but most of the time it boots up every game with only the audio. I saw a post on a forum a while ago about how to easily fix this, but I can no longer seem to find it.

I am using the xbox classic skin for XBMC 3.5.1 Does anyone have a XMV of Shadow Ops Red Mercury? Seems to be missing from all of the download packs. Thanks

Hi I’m new here, just signed up. I’m hoping I can get my Xbox fixed. the problem is my Xbox doesn’t turn on all the way when I have my component OR composite cables plugged in, it turns on, briefly shows orange, then shuts off but when I unplug the video and turn it on the Xbox seems fine? (But no video of course) I’ve looked at the model date and it’s a 1.6b. I have a picture of the clock capacitor and to me it seems fine though I’m kinda new to this sorta thing. Can my Xbox be fixed? Is there some other issue with it? (It IS softmodded with UnleashX installed) Thank you

Hi guys, I posted this on a few xbox groups and thought i'd share it here too. I basically remove the jewel, use a dremel to make a circular hole where the jewel was and then attached a round 800 x 800 pixel (3.4") lcd. The video is provided by a small media player such as the Sumvision Cyclone +2 but i am also going to set it up with a raspberry pi zero to save space. Using the small media player means having to lose the dvd rom due to space confinements. The interface between the lcd and media player is a HDMI to MIPI pcb with 50 pin flat ribbon cable, you can find them on most china electronics websites. The video is just some boot videos i found and stitched together. This media player can loop playback on start up provided the video is placed in a folder in the root of an SD card or USB stick named AUTOPLAY

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

Hi everyone! I TSOP flashed my Original XBOX 1.0 and everything went great. I put together a video about it to share my experience and help you out with it if it's something you want to do to your XBOX 1.0 or 1.1. Enjoy!

I have a xbox. I softmodded then removed softmod. All went well. Softmodded with unleashx and later removed. All was fine. Then yesterday went to softmod with sid. In middle of process or at end xbox shuts down like normal. Then turned back on and now red/green flashing ring and video is not working. Any ideas? I have tried letting the clock reset but made a sure not to leave the console off more than about 5 to 10 minutes. I have left it on all night trying to find a solution. I am worried if I unplug it or power it off much longer it may turn into a brick. Any ideas? I loaded and backed up everything correctly. I have 2 video cables and checked that as well and no dice any help would be appreciated. The video im sure went out with the new softmod install. Not sure why. Any help would be appreciated. Id rather fix than throw it at the wall lol.

Dvd drive power cord got shorted out now the xbox turns on and off twice then stays on with no video. No visible damage to mother board could I have wiped the tsop by shorting out the cable? Tryed swapping power supply from working xbox samething

Out of nowhere today my 1.6b, X3, 2tb Xbox won't boot. Symptoms are: no frag, the console appears to be booting dvd drive will not eject when the button is pressed. The eject button blinks quickly and you can hear the drive spinning down but it never ejects long press of eject and power gives the pink executor logo on the panel and displays the outline of the Flashbios screen but remains blank Single press of the power button lights the Xecuter logo up red for a few seconds then blue as normal, no boot So, I originally thought the chip might have somehow died, but it absolutely cannot be. I completely disassembled the box, removed the X3 from the pinheaded, put the original IDE cable and hard drive back in, and bypassed the X3 board that interfaces with the power/eject buttons. The console appears to be booting but no audio or video (tv behaves as if it is getting no input signal). I have tried with both the OEM composite cable and the OEM component cable (breakout box) with no change. So now I'm convinced the chip is fine and something died in the console but can't find anything similar when searching. Everything on the motherboard looks fine and this console has worked fine since being modded in 2005. Any ideas?

Hello new to the Xbox modding scene I picked up a hard modded xbox and everything works great except for sound and I can’t figure out why... I have tried different cables and different tv’s still no luck Don’t know to much about chips and what it has to be honest I’m still learning lol

So today I got my composite with toslink cable and hooked it up to the TV . My dashboard works fine but when I insert a xbox game the screen is jumbled badly. Is there something I can do here ? Im assuming the cable is fine . It shows up as HD A V pack . I only had the standard A V pack before and am looking forward to seeing an improvement. Hardmod 1.6 Thanks Ryan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v62zNt891bM&t=177s This is 10 years old. Wanting to get back in to it.