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Hi everyone, There are numerous posts throughout the interwebs with people reporting vertical lines showing in the boot animation and MS dashboard when running in 480i. The standard response when people bring up the issue seems to be be 'check your capacitors' and 'just force 480p'. I've seen some people report their caps are either fine, or they replaced them with no change, and I know that forcing 480p does fix the issue, but what I would like to understand is, are there systems using the Conexant encoder which don't suffer from this 480i issue, or is there anyone who had the issue who actually solved the issue by replacing caps and if so, which capacitors solved the issue? Thanks for any feedback. This just seems like one of those issues which have affected a number of people but that the community maybe doesn't understand the actual cause.

I have lots of og and 360 parts just DM if there is anything specific you need anything on my ebay if you DM me directly i will do at least 20% off and possibly more on top of that if you buy alot or i have had the item sitting for a while https://www.ebay.com/str/mcminer

https://youtu.be/5V48rYfqE6E This guide is a start to finish how to softmod a xbox (upgrade a softmodeded hdd too) and also how to TSOP flash any xbox (excluding mb v1.6) including flashing winbond & sharp tsop chips. All the files needed are included in the video description. I DIDNT MAKE ANY OF THE TOOLS FULL CREDITS GO TO THE DEVS, I just collected them all in one place.

When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge.

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

I don't know why video mode resets to original mode, in my case to PAL, when i successfully switch to NTSC. It resets after cold boot. With SID softmod this not happens. I hate NTSC washedout boot screen when using xbox without virtaul eeprom.

No output at all when connected via component, super dark red with scart.

My v1.1 xbox has distortion in its video. It looks like 10 vertical rows of pixels all horizontally shift to the left by about 5 pixels. It's difficult to catch on camera but I've attached 2 photos. In one photo, you can see the pixel shift right in the middle of the letter D on the left hand side of the screen. In the other photo, you can see the same distortion right in between E and F on the left hand side of the screen. It doesn't look as dramatic in these photos as it really is. These vertical distortions appear all over the screen with about 5 or 6 happening at any given time. I replaced the five 1500uF capacitors in my xbox, and that did not help it. This distortion happens when I use the official HD component video adapter. It also happens when I use the Chimeric systems HDMI adapter. It seems like the distortion is not caused by external cables. I tried cleaning the video connector contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know how I can fix this or further troubleshoot the issue?

Hi guys, I was previously using a set of third party component cables, but I was getting a lot of interference (faint wavy lines, etc). I made a set of component cables using an official Xbox av cable and an official Xbox 360 component cable, as detailed in the tutorial section of this site. The picture quality is now much better, however, I'm still getting distortions in the video - several glitchy horizontal lines, but always at the same locations. The same distortion was also there when using the third party cables (albeit with a lot of interference too), so I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cables or with the console. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues and knows what caused them. A video of the distortion is shown here: Cheers

I'm looking for a video released by Team Xecuter sometime in the early 2000s made to promote the durability of their solderless adapter, the Xapt3r. The video shows a couple guys throwing an Xbox with an Xapt3r installed down a flight of stairs, followed by them immediately powering the console on to see that it still functions perfectly. I'm trying to track this video down for archival purposes, and I remember seeing it relatively recently although I was not able to find it again. Many thanks.

Had a weird experience with my latest mod, an xbox 1.6 chipped with an Aladdin XT. First, the dvd drive has a terrible sticking problem I have been unable to fix so far. So, I swapped out dvd drive with another one from a parts xbox, oddly the new dvd drive will play official discs but seems not to read burned discs despite the modchip??? So, unable to boot Hexen I had to swap back to the original (sticky) drive in order to set up the new hdd. When I attempted to run my tried and true copy of Hexen 2017 the disc still refused to recognize at all for some reason (btw just wtf here, this disc has always worked on every other xbox I've modded - but now no), but a copy of Hexen 2018 did in fact boot right up. I went ahead with Hexen 2018 (although I prefer to use 2017 due to having some issue previously with 2018, I can't remember now just what..) and everything seemed to go okay... until I tried to set up hd video modes. I get this error, 'msdash.xbe does not exist' or something similar. Seems that does not get installed when you use Hexen 2018??? According to some thread this file IS included on Hexen 2017 which makes sense because I never had this issue before. Anyways, after all this I just got impatient and ftp'd a copy of msdash.xbe over from another previously modded xbox 1.6 running the same modchip and... now the machine errors out with hardware error 21 every time I try to run the ms dashboard. I feel like I'm starting to lose my mind, I actually already had a couple of other issues earlier on in this mod but got past them. I saw another suggestion to just download msdash.xbe from the internet but when I googled to download it there were like four different versions or something and I really just don't want to mess around anymore. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance if so...

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

At first I thought it was the processing into the XISO format or the XISO playback but I've recently bought an NTSC retail disc and I'm still have this issue on my NTSC console. TSOP modded , rev 1.4 Here are the only historical posts I could find about this - https://forums.operationsports.com/forums/espn-nfl-2k5-football/59228-big-problem-xbox-espn-nfl.html The 2003 Post from the first link, It makes no sense that forcing an NTSC game to PAL50 fixed his issue but moreover why am I having an issue with a NTSC game on my NTSC console? I don't have an unmodded console to test, unfortunately.

I've TSOP modded around 6 OG Xboxes. One of the last 2 I worked on, had no composite video output, though audio works and using my component cables worked too. I mod these and and refurbish to the best of my ability and surprisingly the few I've sold have done well and the people are very happy with them. The component on L4A1 is physically damaged on mine. Here's a photo for reference of what one looks like. This is not mine. I can get an actual photo of mine if necessary... Maybe I damaged mine when removing the mobo to clean everything and solder the TSOP joints? who knows. It's damaged. It looks like the top is sheared right off and still hanging there attached off to the side. I'm guessing this is the culprit of my lack of composite. I wouldn't want to sell one with composite cables that doesn't do composite output... I think I should fix this and include the stock cables and they can decide if they want to use an HDMI adapter or not. My question is, where can I buy this component? I found a few threads here discussing it, but never where to get one. Do I need to steal it from a parts console? Secondly, if I do NOT fix this and sell it including an HDMI adapter, will that work just like my component cables are working? For reference, here are some threads discussing this component.

Folks, thanks for letting me tap the vast knowledge here, yet again. I have 3 issues and hope to get at least one figured out, thanks for any help you can give. I didn't have much luck in the search, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat topic, but I'm sure KaosEngineer will prove me wrong yet again #1 Video playback lags in both XBMC and XBMC4XBOX on 2 different V1.6 softmod boxes. I've tried several formats, .avi, .mp4, .m4v, etc., they all open and play, but either have bad/scrambled video, slowed down playback but audio remains normal, and things just don't run like they should (or as I would expect). In XMBC4XBOX, for example, I've tried all the "video" settings I can see, such as pixel shredder, flicker filter, skip loop filter, etc. The same files work fine on my desktop and laptop, nothing wrong with the files I'm trying to watch. -Am I using a bad program, is there a better video player? I'm considering, naively, upgrading to a SSD.... #2 Is there a plain, straight forward tut for video output upgrade, like switching to HDMI or improving from the 480 (or whatever the standard video output is) with a softmod? #3 Far less pressing, on a recent softmod of a v1.6, I get an MS error 07 when I use the restart/reboot action from the dashboard and other apps that offer a restart. It only happens on restarts, I can turn the unit off then on, and NOT get the error, so as of now it's just a minor inconvenience, but makes me wonder why it occurs. New 80pin IDE cable, used in both directions (blue end on mobo and black on hhd, as well as the reverse) and sure to plug them in tightly and completely. Using a 1tb seagate that is listed on the compatibility chart as working. here's the sata-ide adapter I'm using https://www.ebay.com/itm/154372204735 Thanks for the help!

I have a soft mod rocky5 XBMC-EMUSTATION. I have enabled an intro video but with the default media player set to DVD I get a black screen with good sound on the invisible video. with the default media player set to MPlayer I get a grey screen with choppy sound quality for the intro video. is there a certain specific aspect or file type for the intro.mp4? please help

I'm very new to the modding scene. I'm using pretty cheap Component cables but everything looks and sounds fine in 480i. I've tried using MS dash to enable the settings but it seems to have no effect. It stays ON in MS even after reboot but there's no change. Once I enable any of the HD settings in UnleashX and reboot, I hear everything but no video outputs. I've tried each one 1 at a time and just 2 and all 3. Same result, no video output. For info, It's a v1.6 with an Aladdin XT, I Added 2Tb HDD. Unlocked. And it's NTSC. Am I missing something simple or could this be bad cables or motherboard issue? Every guide I've seen makes it look so simple. When I plug in my composite cable it will automatically reboot and I don't have the option to enable or disable HD. I can't set it to default with composite cables. The only way I can undo it is by listening the audio and going through the menu blind and changing it back with my component cable. Which isn't that difficult. I can't find this specific issue here so if it exists I'd be happy to read the thread. Thank you.

Hello everyone, A while back I bought a couple of Xbox's 1.0 , 1.3 & a 1.6 . Fixed the first two up and running , now the last one turns on and off 3 times, then flashes red/green without video, previous owner says it had the error 06 but for me It doesn't give a video signal at all. A visual inspection of the board for any bulged capacitors shows no obvious faults, although I am aware that sometimes with an ESR meter (which i dont have) you can tell which is good and which is bad. I'm using a component cable and the V1.6 xbox is a PAL unit and the hard drive inside is definitely not stock 160GB storage and no hard mod is installed. A quick search gives me the idea that its probably the eeprom ( dead or corrupted ) if that is the case and assuming i have no backup as i do not know what the previous owner did to it, what should i do ? if not any ideas what should i check / do to troubleshoot the problem ? . I have a Rpi , arduino and an old eeprom universal flasher ( i will check if it supports the chips ). Oh and i have an Aladdin XT PLUS2 on hand if that would help , but kindly note that I have never used them before but if someone has a guide that would be appreciated as well. Best Regards SP

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine. So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find) I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it. So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART. Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up. So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open. From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that). What do you guys think?

Hi, i have xbox 1.0 and i have a problem with it. When I turn on, I do not have a signal video and audio to the green LED, it blinks 3 times, then it lights constantly. When I connect the alladdin, the video is sometimes broken, the green LED lights up in the thread. (how was the work, normal work) However, it was from sound, it does not give a video and so every now and then (picture as it is white) The cable component is working. What is your problem? Any ideas please.

Hi, hope you can all help, I've done my research, searching and have the same issue as in the other thread, but creating a new thread so that his issue doesn't get complicated. I've had my NTSC box since day one purchase, softmodded when that first became available, upgraded the harddrive. All was working fine when I used the xbox last year. Plugging it in today and I get solid green light, no video, no audio, no flubber, and no eject DVD. What I've done so far. Bought another PAL XBOX from ebay (just in case I can't fix the other one) - it's a 1.6. Swapped what I thought was the faulty DVD drive to the new xbox, it works fine. Tried the red, yellow, white cable and SCART (no image) Tried the HD component box (no image) I've inspected the board, I don't think anything as leaked, here are some pictures. Pics: I don't think any cap has blown leaked. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo9bdQ6KcH5zzHPEg https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo-Vg7utgm8-U14tQ Questions: Is the fix at this point, to try to do the coma fix as above I'm a soldering noob, so going to need to practice that first! Is there a way of getting anything off the old harddrive? I've kept eeprom etc or do I have to try the above first as can't swap the harddrive to the new xbxox. Do I need to check the underside of the motherboard? I've not done this yet. Any help, much appreciated, thank you.

I found this on reddit, but it did not looking it was ever resolved.Changed the 3 caps under the CPU and now sound but no picture! Any ideas? I am having the same issue where I had to replace 5 blown caps, but afterwards I am getting no video. I can hear the boot animation, but I get no video. I have reflowed many times. Not sure where exactly to start checking. Any help would be appreciated.