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i have replaced caps on probably 8 xboxs. i have video issues with many of them and i'm wondering if replacing all of the caps is really needed? i usually replace the ones in front of the cpu/gpu and any others that look damaged. i ordered a 1.1v xbox that i am planning to mod and hopefully use it as my main xbox. i want it to look and sound the best possible.

the 1.0v is generally thought to have the best video output. i've never heard a definite reason why the 1.4v usually has video issues(often in the form of wavy lines). i have read were some speculate that this is because microsoft lowered the power of the video signal on the 1.4. so, since the 1.0 has 5 caps in front of the cpu/gpu instead of 3, i wonder if adding the extra 2 caps to the 1.4v might give it a little extra power and help the video signal any? has anyone ever tried it? is there any danger to the xbox if the extra 2 caps are added?

Hi guys, I finally managed to finish it, although it can still be improved. If ever when I have more free time, I will improve the things I left pending. I present to you my tool to change the boot video on Cerbios console. The program is made on "unleashx" basis and after a first installation it allows you to easily change the boot video. The software also has a section that allows you to add 10 user-defined videos. Its operation is basic; after a first installation (multilingual Eng-Ita-Fra-Spa-Deu) it will no longer be necessary to run the software but simply start what is installed on the console. During the installation you will be asked for the preferred language, if the cerbios.ini file has already been modified, and that's it. If you make a mistake in installing the version, it will not work but it will not cause any damage and to fix it you will just have to run the installer again. The version for unedited files points to the C:\BootAnims\Xbox folder; the one for edited files points to the C:\BootAnims\XMV Player folder. Instead, to load your own custom videos in XMV format, just place them in the "Custom video" folder inside the main directory of the installed program naming them Video1, Video2, Video3, etc. up to Video10; once loaded, you will see the video preview in the appropriate section https://mega.nz/folder/Fw43EK6T#5aefTyT2JD4lvvKuMdsPrw https://github.com/XXGekoXX/MAIN-video-selector/tree/main If you think that the hours I have dedicated with passion could have led to something useful and you want to offer me a beer or even just a coffee to thank me, click on the link [https://paypal.me/gbaldanza?country.x=IT&locale.x=it_IT] thank you very much The work you find on this page is the result of a lot of passion and a lot of time dedicated to the old and dear Xbox original, I did not invent anything because I simply have together different notions found on the net and everything I did is simply to safeguard my console and my legally owned games. I AM AGAINST ANY FORM OF PIRACY AND I DO NOT WANT TO FACILITATE IT IN ANY WAY, therefore if this is your goal, please change page I would like to particularly thank those who helped me bring this project to light -Agxboxmod Ale: For the moral support and for always being there when I need a hand (even when I don't ask for it) -Nikeymikey: for having done a good part of the covers and for having helped me significantly in finding the errors -Andrea Tombolesi: for giving me total availability in the search for errors by dedicating himself totally to thems -Daniele Cecchin: for being my Beta Tester (immediately when I needed it) -Alfa Juliet: for being my Beta Tester (immediately when I needed it) -Mirko Riva: for being my Beta Tester (immediately when I needed it) -Giuseppe Privitera: for being my Beta Tester (immediately when I needed it) -Jay: for helping me with the company to understand how IDs work *Team Resurgent: for making it all possible *Dark Destiny: For being an inspiration to me *Rocky5: for all the work he does preview.mp4

Hi. I have been trying to find a solution for this issue. This Xbox 1.6 stopped showing the components red color one day, few days later it stopped powering up too. I managed to replace a transistor and it is turning on now, but the problem with the red color persists. The composite out outputs all the colors. The Red pins on the AV port have continuity, but the pin 19 is shorter in length than the rest of the pins and I don’t know If that is intended to be like that or it is damaged or deformed. Does someone know where the problem might be coming from?

Hi everyone. I'm posting now hoping to get some help with my Xbox. I haven't used it for 5 years and I took it out again 3 days ago and now it started doing what's in the video (link at the bottom): the image glitches and goes black. When this happens, the power and eject buttons do not work at all and the only way to turn it off is to unplug it from the socket. By the way, it's a v1.1 XBox. If anyone has any idea what could be the problem, I'd appreciate the help. Here's a link to a video showing the issue: https://streamable.com/rsie40

Hi everyone, I have a 1.4 board that I bought loose. I bought a lot with several xboxes and they all have FRAG. Now I just want to try to fix this 1.4 so I bought a power supply that I received yesterday, the console turns on but has FRAG. I have a reader and a hard drive from another xbox that I can use to test. I have 2 aladdin chips but I don't know if they work. The power supply is tested and works. I have many rp2040 and I tried to program one but it doesn't work or I don't know how to make it work. The 1.4 board doesn't have bad tracks or swollen capacitors. I'm quite lost, I've never had an xbox with FRAG (50% green 50% red) without video and I don't know where to start. In the same lot there was a 1.1 xbox with the same symptoms, but in the end I sold it very cheap.

On to my next project. This is the 1.4 board that came from the 1.6 Halo console. It's why I transplanted. This is the shell that the 1.6 was in. I can not get it to boot with video. It'll even flash green and orange without the AV cable plugged in, but when it's plugged in? Nothing. One time. I got video output ONE TIME for no apparent reason. Got the green blubber and everything. Couldn't believe it. Next boot, nothing. Just a green light. I found a lot of bugs in this case for some reason and they may have caused a short... I'm hoping it was just in storage... And that I didn't fry it when I tested it the first time... I didn't know there were like, 147 bugs inside, man... Any idea where to start? Or should I just give up now? I did verify that it's not a corroded AV port. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer

Hello everyone First wanted to say thanks to this forum, I have gathered alot of useful info here. Now onto my dilemma. I have two OG XBoxes one is mine from when I was a kid and softmodded way back when. It is still softmodded, however after lightning struck our house, the network port hasn't worked in over 10 years. This is a version 1.4. So I was ecstatic when I found a second OG XBox with controllers and a bunch of games a couple years ago for $20 at a rummage sale. This is a version 1.2 I removed the clock capacitor from both of them before they could do any damage and confirmed both to be working after doing so. Recently I decided I wanted to mod the new XBox and bought a Xenium Nemesis Modchip. I got everything soldered into place pretty easily, and went to boot it up and to my horror got the start three times then flash red/green with no video output. I went back and double checked my solder points, everything looked good, then I saw it.....somehow a large solder splash landed on the R7T2, R7T3, R7T4 resistors. Hoping for the best I removed the solder splash (it wasn't fully attached) and ensured the resistors were still soldered to the board. Tried booting up again...same behavior. And my journey began.... To keep things clear and concise....here is a list of everything else I tried with no change in behavior. Tried with and without the modchip Removed the d0 wire and modchip Reflowed the modchip lpc connector Installed the modchip into my old XBox, quadruple checking for splashes, and it works just fine and boots into PrometheOS Scoured the board for any bad traces or fried/missing chips, additional splashes, none found. Cleaned entire board with rubbing alcohol Used compressed air to blow off board. Swapped power supplies, both work on good board Checked the LPC pin voltages, everything matched the below page except pins 5 and 10 read 0 volts, not sure if that's because it's FRAGing or not. https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/239-lpc-diagnostics-v01/#comment-945 Followed the traces from the LPC pins to their respective points using the baldbouncer image on the above page and they all check out to no resistance Compared the resistances between the new(bad) board and the old(good) board and they match for those three resistors. R7T2=1.8k, R7T3=5.3k, R7T4=4.7k Replaced the 6 CPU capacitors using the kit from Console5 Reapplied thermal paste to CPU and GPU Use hair dryer to warm up the board (saw in a youtube video it helped with some bad capacitors) Here is a link to an album with several close up pics of the motherboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/GbRpT2M8hbqE2grm7 So my ask is, is there anything else anyone can think of, or do you see anything of concern in the pictures that I could look into? Ultimately I would just love to have a modded XBox with a working network card, so I might have to just give up on this board and keep looking for another. Thank you for reading my novel!

Hello everyone! This is my first post, so apologies if it’s formatted incorrectly. I’m currently having a tough time trying to diagnose what could be causing my Xbox to output a wobbly video signal as seen here. I’ve tried -swapping power supplies -replacing the 5 caps near the cpu -giving the board and console a deep clean I’m thinking maybe it’s a grounding issue? Or perhaps the video encoding chip is about to die? Honestly I’m at a loss. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you guys.

Hi, have a Xbox Classic 1.4 chip FOCUS fitted with Aladdin XT Plus2 Cerbios 2.4.2 FRAG when power on Falshing Green Orange NO video output on screen. I replaced 3 capacitors of 3300uF 6.3v the ones near the power connector were swollen, and put new thermal paste, and washing mainboard. How to fix?

Okay, firstly this is not a problem with Rocky's code per se, it's a problem with the XBMC code going back 18 years when the issue first appeared. I did flag it at the time and a few other softmod users on the forums (XBMC and Xbox-scene) did too. Full debug logs were provided but Gemini's dev Xbox was messed up after a RAM replacement so he couldn't test it. I ended up fixing it myself and did so into 2010 until I switched fully over to Xbox 360 and PS3. I've only recently started using my Xbox again to discover the bug still exists in new XBMC iterations. This bug only affects softmods patching kernels from the Conexant and Focus video encoder machines. So if you have a 1.6 (Xcalibur encoder) this won't affect you as Rocky has added some code which makes v1.6's work perfect with Cherry's eeprom-safe video-mode patch code on a softmodded 1.6 (it never used to). The code for the pre v1.6 kernels seems to screw up after a soft reboot. Also the bug doesn't affect using BFM bioses on a softmod, or if you compiled NKPatcher to do a 'full reboot' rather than a 'reboot to dash'. Here's how to reproduce the bug: Make sure sure you have enabled 'Enable video mode switching' in the XBMC4Gamers menu as we're going to boot at 50hz only game on an NTSC machine (or PAL machine set to NTSC) and vice versa ( a PAL machine booting an NTSC game), then repeat the boot process. Leave the 'For 60hz games' setting to 'Use NTSC-M & NTSC-J'. On an NTSC machine navigate to a 50hz only game (like Sensible Soccer 2006, SCAR or one of those Club Football games) and press 'white'. Make sure it it says 'Launch PAL' (if not select 'Launch in..', then select PAL). The game will launch fine in 576i. Now do an IGR back to dash. Now try to launch the game again (or any other 50hz only game). It will display a black screen and a rapidly expanding log file in XBMC that reads something like this (debug): 22:01:19 M: 44838912 NOTICE: Unmapped drive D 22:01:19 M: 44838912 NOTICE: Mapping drive D to Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Scar - Squadra Corse Alfa Romeo (Pal) 22:01:19 M: 44838912 INFO: Mounting Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Scar - Squadra Corse Alfa Romeo (Pal) as D: 22:01:19 M: 44838912 INFO: Launching xbe:d:\default.xbe 22:01:19 M: 44838912 DEBUG: Forcing video mode: 3 22:01:19 M: 44847104 ERROR: exception in CApplication::FrameMove() 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: unload sections 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: application stopped... 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: Running the application... 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: unload sections 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: application stopped... 22:01:19 M: 44847104 NOTICE: Running the application... etc.. etc... (constantly looping) You have to power off and run the game from a fresh boot. To test the bug on a PAL machine (not a PAL machine set to NTSC) booting an NTSC game, again make sure you have enabled 'Enable video mode switching' in the menu. Select an NTSC only version of a game. We'll use the US version of Halo.. Navigate to the game and press 'white'. Make sure it it says 'Launch NTSC' (if not select 'Launch in..', then select NTSC). The game will launch fine. Now do an IGR back to dash. Now try to launch Halo again (or any other NTSC game). It will display a black screen and again a rapidly expanding log file: 20:41:33 M: 48623616 NOTICE: Unmapped drive D 20:41:33 M: 48623616 NOTICE: Mapping drive D to Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Halo Combat Evolved (Usa) 20:41:33 M: 48623616 INFO: Mounting Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Halo Combat Evolved (Usa) as D: 20:41:33 M: 48623616 INFO: Launching xbe:d:\default.xbe 20:41:33 M: 48623616 DEBUG: Forcing video mode: 1 20:41:33 M: 48652288 ERROR: exception in CApplication::FrameMove() 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: unload sections 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: application stopped... 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: Running the application... 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: unload sections 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: application stopped... 20:41:33 M: 48652288 NOTICE: Running the application... etc.. etc... (constantly looping) Same process using US/NTSC version of Broken Sword on a PAL machine, but testing PAL-60 instead. Works first boot, then after soft reset and loading the game again, black screen: 20:47:25 M: 47874048 NOTICE: Unmapped drive D 20:47:25 M: 47874048 NOTICE: Mapping drive D to Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Broken Sword - The Sleeping Dragon (Usa) 20:47:25 M: 47874048 INFO: Mounting Harddisk0\Partition6\Games\Broken Sword - The Sleeping Dragon (Usa) as D: 20:47:25 M: 47874048 INFO: Launching xbe:d:\default.xbe 20:47:25 M: 47874048 DEBUG: Forcing video mode: 4 20:47:25 M: 47882240 ERROR: exception in CApplication::FrameMove() 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: unload sections 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: application stopped... 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: Running the application... 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10013 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10014 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10015 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10016 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10017 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10018 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10019 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10107 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10115 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 WARNING: Attempted to remove window 10104 from the window manager when it didn't exist 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: unload sections 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: application stopped... 20:47:25 M: 47882240 NOTICE: Running the application... etc.. etc... (constantly looping) The current ways to negate this are: After you've run one PAL 50hz game (or pure NTSC game for PAL users) and rebooted back to dash, do a 'Reboot' from the XBMC4Gamers options menu (black button). Now the game will work fine. Another way is to recompile your NKPatcher like so: %define IGR ; %define IGR_TO_DASHBOARD %define IGR_FULL_REBOOT ; %define IGR_MASTER_PORT 0 Bear in mind this will auto detach any ISO you may have mounted when you do an In-Game-reset, so you won't be able to browse any mounted virtual discs. Also, this method means each IGR does a full reboot, so it will take longer to get back into XBMC4Gamers. Or you can use the linked xbe which fixes these issues on pre v1.6 kernels. I modified and compiled from Rocky's latest sources for his v2.0.004 release. Just overwrite the 'default.xbe' in the XBMC4Gamers folder and power cycle your Xbox (you need to power cycle as XBMC caches itself to a virtual drive). XBMC4Gamers 2.0.004 default.xbe fix

Hi guys, I was previously using a set of third party component cables, but I was getting a lot of interference (faint wavy lines, etc). I made a set of component cables using an official Xbox av cable and an official Xbox 360 component cable, as detailed in the tutorial section of this site. The picture quality is now much better, however, I'm still getting distortions in the video - several glitchy horizontal lines, but always at the same locations. The same distortion was also there when using the third party cables (albeit with a lot of interference too), so I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cables or with the console. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues and knows what caused them. A video of the distortion is shown here: Cheers

This archive contains a copy of team cerbios' xmv player and the video that plays when you put an og xbox game in a dvd player in xmv format made with JCRocky5's Convert to XMV program. Place contents in BootAnim folder and point your cerbios settings to use it as the boot animation with cerbios tool. I claim no ownership of any intellectual property contained this file. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqbGdwCLzV0UxGJuaCgnCMnFTfab?e=CQSCe0

i have a bunch of old videos on my xbox i want on my computer, but i don't know how to do it.. do i have to record it through a capture card or is it possible to take the hard-drive out and get the videos

Just in case you didn’t know this existed… works great and is functional on Insignia!! https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EyeToy_Mod_Guide I reprogrammed my eeprom (on camera) so that I didn’t need to modify the chat app

I've bought a v1.1 128mb Xbox from ebay years ago with an LCD. However the seller for some reason removed the bottom metal RF shielding. I wonder if there is a way to fix the video without buying a donor xbox (due to high shipping costs). More on the condition of the xbox: - Tsop flashed with a modified Xecuter X3 bios and I am afraid to change it. - It is a PAL unit (not sure on what psu) - Wasn't serviced except for clock cap removal and changed the HDD to a startech CF card adapter. - Changed to 80wire ide

Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

I've upgraded my old XBlast + XboxHDMI setup to Stellar XboxHD+ kit and after powering on the system I have no video output. There's a green LED in the XboxHD+ PCB but it's not lit. I've measured the 5V pad and I'm getting around 4.91V. I've also replaced the QSB with a newer revision and it's measuring around 130 Ohms. Stellar board have been updated to the latest firmware before installing and the link cable is connected. Anything I'm missing or should I RMA it?

So I have a OEM component cable and a 3rd party. They both work but give me one same issue. The right audio channel wont work, so its just my left speaker. Its not my TV bc my PS2 and Wii component works flawlessly. I cleaned the av port with q tip and isopropyl 91. If I use my Chimeric HDMI adapter both speakers work but I think its still playing through the left audio channel only. Im tryna use component so I can avoid buying another hdmi splitter. My xbox is a 1.2 128mb ram openxenium running IND bios recapped not by me.

Removing the delay from the window where the game video is running without it blinking when loading every time you make a move, or at least make the video appear before the slider goes down completely

Hi all, I've found an Original Xbox which is a v1.6. After connecting it, it doesn`t powering on, so I opened it up and did a check of all the capacitors. The clock cap was a bit leaking, so I removed it, cleaned everything, checked all the traces on the board with a magnifier and didn`t find an issues. At this moment I use a wire instead of the clock cap (I found some topics on this forum and reddit about that). So before ordering a new clock cap I want to have the console working. The console turns on now, but no audio or video. The light around the eject button is solid green. I've no clue how to fix this.

Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.

I'm trying my hand at both soldering (never done it before) and hardmodding by installing an OpenXenium chip onto my 1.0 Xbox. As the title states, I'm getting nothing after my first attempt. My initial assumption was that I probably have a cold solder point on the LPC debug header, although the single wire could cause harm (I doubt that ones bad though.) I remembered, however, that due to it not being used, I left pin 15 filled, as I was struggling to get it opened. While I doubt it, could that be causing any issues? Here's a picture of the joints for easier assessment: Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Every game I've tried has repeated simultaneous audio/video dropouts, though the game doesn't freeze (controller rumble still happens at expected time, and game time has passed when audio/video returns). It seems to be more common when there's more activity in the game scene, though it happens at 'quiet' times too, even in the dashboard (Rocky5) with some video modes. It's a lot worse in PAL-60, but happens in PAL and NTSC, over component and through HDMI converter. I've tried various combinations of video modes set in Rocky5, enigmah or lpartx. Nothing working yet. I haven't done anything hardware-wise to this thing in the ~15 years I've had it, and have only recently installed Rocky5 - seems like a hardware issue?

Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c