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Hi guys, I was previously using a set of third party component cables, but I was getting a lot of interference (faint wavy lines, etc). I made a set of component cables using an official Xbox av cable and an official Xbox 360 component cable, as detailed in the tutorial section of this site. The picture quality is now much better, however, I'm still getting distortions in the video - several glitchy horizontal lines, but always at the same locations. The same distortion was also there when using the third party cables (albeit with a lot of interference too), so I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cables or with the console. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues and knows what caused them. A video of the distortion is shown here: Cheers

I'm looking for a video released by Team Xecuter sometime in the early 2000s made to promote the durability of their solderless adapter, the Xapt3r. The video shows a couple guys throwing an Xbox with an Xapt3r installed down a flight of stairs, followed by them immediately powering the console on to see that it still functions perfectly. I'm trying to track this video down for archival purposes, and I remember seeing it relatively recently although I was not able to find it again. Many thanks.

When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge.

Had a weird experience with my latest mod, an xbox 1.6 chipped with an Aladdin XT. First, the dvd drive has a terrible sticking problem I have been unable to fix so far. So, I swapped out dvd drive with another one from a parts xbox, oddly the new dvd drive will play official discs but seems not to read burned discs despite the modchip??? So, unable to boot Hexen I had to swap back to the original (sticky) drive in order to set up the new hdd. When I attempted to run my tried and true copy of Hexen 2017 the disc still refused to recognize at all for some reason (btw just wtf here, this disc has always worked on every other xbox I've modded - but now no), but a copy of Hexen 2018 did in fact boot right up. I went ahead with Hexen 2018 (although I prefer to use 2017 due to having some issue previously with 2018, I can't remember now just what..) and everything seemed to go okay... until I tried to set up hd video modes. I get this error, 'msdash.xbe does not exist' or something similar. Seems that does not get installed when you use Hexen 2018??? According to some thread this file IS included on Hexen 2017 which makes sense because I never had this issue before. Anyways, after all this I just got impatient and ftp'd a copy of msdash.xbe over from another previously modded xbox 1.6 running the same modchip and... now the machine errors out with hardware error 21 every time I try to run the ms dashboard. I feel like I'm starting to lose my mind, I actually already had a couple of other issues earlier on in this mod but got past them. I saw another suggestion to just download msdash.xbe from the internet but when I googled to download it there were like four different versions or something and I really just don't want to mess around anymore. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance if so...

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

My v1.1 xbox has distortion in its video. It looks like 10 vertical rows of pixels all horizontally shift to the left by about 5 pixels. It's difficult to catch on camera but I've attached 2 photos. In one photo, you can see the pixel shift right in the middle of the letter D on the left hand side of the screen. In the other photo, you can see the same distortion right in between E and F on the left hand side of the screen. It doesn't look as dramatic in these photos as it really is. These vertical distortions appear all over the screen with about 5 or 6 happening at any given time. I replaced the five 1500uF capacitors in my xbox, and that did not help it. This distortion happens when I use the official HD component video adapter. It also happens when I use the Chimeric systems HDMI adapter. It seems like the distortion is not caused by external cables. I tried cleaning the video connector contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know how I can fix this or further troubleshoot the issue?

At first I thought it was the processing into the XISO format or the XISO playback but I've recently bought an NTSC retail disc and I'm still have this issue on my NTSC console. TSOP modded , rev 1.4 Here are the only historical posts I could find about this - https://forums.operationsports.com/forums/espn-nfl-2k5-football/59228-big-problem-xbox-espn-nfl.html The 2003 Post from the first link, It makes no sense that forcing an NTSC game to PAL50 fixed his issue but moreover why am I having an issue with a NTSC game on my NTSC console? I don't have an unmodded console to test, unfortunately.

I've TSOP modded around 6 OG Xboxes. One of the last 2 I worked on, had no composite video output, though audio works and using my component cables worked too. I mod these and and refurbish to the best of my ability and surprisingly the few I've sold have done well and the people are very happy with them. The component on L4A1 is physically damaged on mine. Here's a photo for reference of what one looks like. This is not mine. I can get an actual photo of mine if necessary... Maybe I damaged mine when removing the mobo to clean everything and solder the TSOP joints? who knows. It's damaged. It looks like the top is sheared right off and still hanging there attached off to the side. I'm guessing this is the culprit of my lack of composite. I wouldn't want to sell one with composite cables that doesn't do composite output... I think I should fix this and include the stock cables and they can decide if they want to use an HDMI adapter or not. My question is, where can I buy this component? I found a few threads here discussing it, but never where to get one. Do I need to steal it from a parts console? Secondly, if I do NOT fix this and sell it including an HDMI adapter, will that work just like my component cables are working? For reference, here are some threads discussing this component.

Folks, thanks for letting me tap the vast knowledge here, yet again. I have 3 issues and hope to get at least one figured out, thanks for any help you can give. I didn't have much luck in the search, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat topic, but I'm sure KaosEngineer will prove me wrong yet again #1 Video playback lags in both XBMC and XBMC4XBOX on 2 different V1.6 softmod boxes. I've tried several formats, .avi, .mp4, .m4v, etc., they all open and play, but either have bad/scrambled video, slowed down playback but audio remains normal, and things just don't run like they should (or as I would expect). In XMBC4XBOX, for example, I've tried all the "video" settings I can see, such as pixel shredder, flicker filter, skip loop filter, etc. The same files work fine on my desktop and laptop, nothing wrong with the files I'm trying to watch. -Am I using a bad program, is there a better video player? I'm considering, naively, upgrading to a SSD.... #2 Is there a plain, straight forward tut for video output upgrade, like switching to HDMI or improving from the 480 (or whatever the standard video output is) with a softmod? #3 Far less pressing, on a recent softmod of a v1.6, I get an MS error 07 when I use the restart/reboot action from the dashboard and other apps that offer a restart. It only happens on restarts, I can turn the unit off then on, and NOT get the error, so as of now it's just a minor inconvenience, but makes me wonder why it occurs. New 80pin IDE cable, used in both directions (blue end on mobo and black on hhd, as well as the reverse) and sure to plug them in tightly and completely. Using a 1tb seagate that is listed on the compatibility chart as working. here's the sata-ide adapter I'm using https://www.ebay.com/itm/154372204735 Thanks for the help!

I have a soft mod rocky5 XBMC-EMUSTATION. I have enabled an intro video but with the default media player set to DVD I get a black screen with good sound on the invisible video. with the default media player set to MPlayer I get a grey screen with choppy sound quality for the intro video. is there a certain specific aspect or file type for the intro.mp4? please help

I'm very new to the modding scene. I'm using pretty cheap Component cables but everything looks and sounds fine in 480i. I've tried using MS dash to enable the settings but it seems to have no effect. It stays ON in MS even after reboot but there's no change. Once I enable any of the HD settings in UnleashX and reboot, I hear everything but no video outputs. I've tried each one 1 at a time and just 2 and all 3. Same result, no video output. For info, It's a v1.6 with an Aladdin XT, I Added 2Tb HDD. Unlocked. And it's NTSC. Am I missing something simple or could this be bad cables or motherboard issue? Every guide I've seen makes it look so simple. When I plug in my composite cable it will automatically reboot and I don't have the option to enable or disable HD. I can't set it to default with composite cables. The only way I can undo it is by listening the audio and going through the menu blind and changing it back with my component cable. Which isn't that difficult. I can't find this specific issue here so if it exists I'd be happy to read the thread. Thank you.

Hello everyone, A while back I bought a couple of Xbox's 1.0 , 1.3 & a 1.6 . Fixed the first two up and running , now the last one turns on and off 3 times, then flashes red/green without video, previous owner says it had the error 06 but for me It doesn't give a video signal at all. A visual inspection of the board for any bulged capacitors shows no obvious faults, although I am aware that sometimes with an ESR meter (which i dont have) you can tell which is good and which is bad. I'm using a component cable and the V1.6 xbox is a PAL unit and the hard drive inside is definitely not stock 160GB storage and no hard mod is installed. A quick search gives me the idea that its probably the eeprom ( dead or corrupted ) if that is the case and assuming i have no backup as i do not know what the previous owner did to it, what should i do ? if not any ideas what should i check / do to troubleshoot the problem ? . I have a Rpi , arduino and an old eeprom universal flasher ( i will check if it supports the chips ). Oh and i have an Aladdin XT PLUS2 on hand if that would help , but kindly note that I have never used them before but if someone has a guide that would be appreciated as well. Best Regards SP

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine. So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find) I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it. So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART. Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up. So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open. From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that). What do you guys think?

Hi, i have xbox 1.0 and i have a problem with it. When I turn on, I do not have a signal video and audio to the green LED, it blinks 3 times, then it lights constantly. When I connect the alladdin, the video is sometimes broken, the green LED lights up in the thread. (how was the work, normal work) However, it was from sound, it does not give a video and so every now and then (picture as it is white) The cable component is working. What is your problem? Any ideas please.

Hi, hope you can all help, I've done my research, searching and have the same issue as in the other thread, but creating a new thread so that his issue doesn't get complicated. I've had my NTSC box since day one purchase, softmodded when that first became available, upgraded the harddrive. All was working fine when I used the xbox last year. Plugging it in today and I get solid green light, no video, no audio, no flubber, and no eject DVD. What I've done so far. Bought another PAL XBOX from ebay (just in case I can't fix the other one) - it's a 1.6. Swapped what I thought was the faulty DVD drive to the new xbox, it works fine. Tried the red, yellow, white cable and SCART (no image) Tried the HD component box (no image) I've inspected the board, I don't think anything as leaked, here are some pictures. Pics: I don't think any cap has blown leaked. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo9bdQ6KcH5zzHPEg https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aoee44V6bKCWkKo-Vg7utgm8-U14tQ Questions: Is the fix at this point, to try to do the coma fix as above I'm a soldering noob, so going to need to practice that first! Is there a way of getting anything off the old harddrive? I've kept eeprom etc or do I have to try the above first as can't swap the harddrive to the new xbxox. Do I need to check the underside of the motherboard? I've not done this yet. Any help, much appreciated, thank you.

I found this on reddit, but it did not looking it was ever resolved.Changed the 3 caps under the CPU and now sound but no picture! Any ideas? I am having the same issue where I had to replace 5 blown caps, but afterwards I am getting no video. I can hear the boot animation, but I get no video. I have reflowed many times. Not sure where exactly to start checking. Any help would be appreciated.

hey all, Building a cocktail arcade cabinet, which requires the display to be mounted vertically instead of the typical horizontal orientation. The TV display we are using doesn't have the ability to do it within its menu. I've seen an option to do so on non Xbox arcade cabinets (and it actually flipped 180degrees for 2 player games as well) , i was wondering if anyone knew how to do it with a modded xbox, either natively within UnleashX or XBMC-emustation or XBMC4Gamers....or another way. CoinOps has limited capability to do so with certain games, but it also inverts controls when doing so. Any help or guidance you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.

I messed up. Was fiddling around with configmagic trying to lock the HDD on my chipped Xbox 1.6 so I can transfer and use the HDD on my softmodded Xbox. I followed this guide here: https://www.biline.ca/xbox_uxe_hd2.htm I was able to update the EEPROM as stated and locked the HDD so it can be used on the softmodded Xbox. That worked fine. But now my chipped Xbox turns on but no picture or video whatsoever. I don't know what to do next...

Hey there everyone. I watched a video on YouTube on a Modded Xbox. During the initial startup of the Xbox, it shows an animation and a custom dashboard. Does anyone know how to add the animation before the menu shows up and how to customize the menu?? I have never seen this before except for this video. Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you. Here is a Link to the Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw91sVm2fkI&t=1s Starts at 8:03 minutes Thanks Again!!

So I’ve got an Xbox 1.0 that was opened before me when I got it. It flashes red and green after 3 reboots and I get no video please help!! 3 reboots and no video. I’ve changed a couple caps near the clock cap hoping it would be that but no luck. I removed clock capacitor cleaned the whole board with ipa and tested it and still no luck. Bought an Aladdin off eBay hooked it up and still nothing worked. Could someone have done a bad eeprom flash? I’ve ruled out the power supply already and even with the HDD and dvd drive unplugged it still doesn’t work. As far as I can tell the tsop points are not bridged . What else can I try to fix this?

conexant - jailbars on analog output, best component output. focus - looks good all round. xclibus - crap component, best analog output.

All, Is there somewhere where i can download video previews for all the og xbox games so that xbmc4gamers can play them? Thanks in advance!