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So I have a OEM component cable and a 3rd party. They both work but give me one same issue. The right audio channel wont work, so its just my left speaker. Its not my TV bc my PS2 and Wii component works flawlessly. I cleaned the av port with q tip and isopropyl 91. If I use my Chimeric HDMI adapter both speakers work but I think its still playing through the left audio channel only. Im tryna use component so I can avoid buying another hdmi splitter. My xbox is a 1.2 128mb ram openxenium running IND bios recapped not by me.

I've upgraded my old XBlast + XboxHDMI setup to Stellar XboxHD+ kit and after powering on the system I have no video output. There's a green LED in the XboxHD+ PCB but it's not lit. I've measured the 5V pad and I'm getting around 4.91V. I've also replaced the QSB with a newer revision and it's measuring around 130 Ohms. Stellar board have been updated to the latest firmware before installing and the link cable is connected. Anything I'm missing or should I RMA it?

On to my next project. This is the 1.4 board that came from the 1.6 Halo console. It's why I transplanted. This is the shell that the 1.6 was in. I can not get it to boot with video. It'll even flash green and orange without the AV cable plugged in, but when it's plugged in? Nothing. One time. I got video output ONE TIME for no apparent reason. Got the green blubber and everything. Couldn't believe it. Next boot, nothing. Just a green light. I found a lot of bugs in this case for some reason and they may have caused a short... I'm hoping it was just in storage... And that I didn't fry it when I tested it the first time... I didn't know there were like, 147 bugs inside, man... Any idea where to start? Or should I just give up now? I did verify that it's not a corroded AV port. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer

Removing the delay from the window where the game video is running without it blinking when loading every time you make a move, or at least make the video appear before the slider goes down completely

Hi all, I've found an Original Xbox which is a v1.6. After connecting it, it doesn`t powering on, so I opened it up and did a check of all the capacitors. The clock cap was a bit leaking, so I removed it, cleaned everything, checked all the traces on the board with a magnifier and didn`t find an issues. At this moment I use a wire instead of the clock cap (I found some topics on this forum and reddit about that). So before ordering a new clock cap I want to have the console working. The console turns on now, but no audio or video. The light around the eject button is solid green. I've no clue how to fix this.

Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.

I'm trying my hand at both soldering (never done it before) and hardmodding by installing an OpenXenium chip onto my 1.0 Xbox. As the title states, I'm getting nothing after my first attempt. My initial assumption was that I probably have a cold solder point on the LPC debug header, although the single wire could cause harm (I doubt that ones bad though.) I remembered, however, that due to it not being used, I left pin 15 filled, as I was struggling to get it opened. While I doubt it, could that be causing any issues? Here's a picture of the joints for easier assessment: Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Every game I've tried has repeated simultaneous audio/video dropouts, though the game doesn't freeze (controller rumble still happens at expected time, and game time has passed when audio/video returns). It seems to be more common when there's more activity in the game scene, though it happens at 'quiet' times too, even in the dashboard (Rocky5) with some video modes. It's a lot worse in PAL-60, but happens in PAL and NTSC, over component and through HDMI converter. I've tried various combinations of video modes set in Rocky5, enigmah or lpartx. Nothing working yet. I haven't done anything hardware-wise to this thing in the ~15 years I've had it, and have only recently installed Rocky5 - seems like a hardware issue?

Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c

Hi everyone, There are numerous posts throughout the interwebs with people reporting vertical lines showing in the boot animation and MS dashboard when running in 480i. The standard response when people bring up the issue seems to be be 'check your capacitors' and 'just force 480p'. I've seen some people report their caps are either fine, or they replaced them with no change, and I know that forcing 480p does fix the issue, but what I would like to understand is, are there systems using the Conexant encoder which don't suffer from this 480i issue, or is there anyone who had the issue who actually solved the issue by replacing caps and if so, which capacitors solved the issue? Thanks for any feedback. This just seems like one of those issues which have affected a number of people but that the community maybe doesn't understand the actual cause.

I have lots of og and 360 parts just DM if there is anything specific you need anything on my ebay if you DM me directly i will do at least 20% off and possibly more on top of that if you buy alot or i have had the item sitting for a while https://www.ebay.com/str/mcminer

https://youtu.be/5V48rYfqE6E This guide is a start to finish how to softmod a xbox (upgrade a softmodeded hdd too) and also how to TSOP flash any xbox (excluding mb v1.6) including flashing winbond & sharp tsop chips. All the files needed are included in the video description. I DIDNT MAKE ANY OF THE TOOLS FULL CREDITS GO TO THE DEVS, I just collected them all in one place.

When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge.

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

I don't know why video mode resets to original mode, in my case to PAL, when i successfully switch to NTSC. It resets after cold boot. With SID softmod this not happens. I hate NTSC washedout boot screen when using xbox without virtaul eeprom.

No output at all when connected via component, super dark red with scart.

My v1.1 xbox has distortion in its video. It looks like 10 vertical rows of pixels all horizontally shift to the left by about 5 pixels. It's difficult to catch on camera but I've attached 2 photos. In one photo, you can see the pixel shift right in the middle of the letter D on the left hand side of the screen. In the other photo, you can see the same distortion right in between E and F on the left hand side of the screen. It doesn't look as dramatic in these photos as it really is. These vertical distortions appear all over the screen with about 5 or 6 happening at any given time. I replaced the five 1500uF capacitors in my xbox, and that did not help it. This distortion happens when I use the official HD component video adapter. It also happens when I use the Chimeric systems HDMI adapter. It seems like the distortion is not caused by external cables. I tried cleaning the video connector contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know how I can fix this or further troubleshoot the issue?

Hi guys, I was previously using a set of third party component cables, but I was getting a lot of interference (faint wavy lines, etc). I made a set of component cables using an official Xbox av cable and an official Xbox 360 component cable, as detailed in the tutorial section of this site. The picture quality is now much better, however, I'm still getting distortions in the video - several glitchy horizontal lines, but always at the same locations. The same distortion was also there when using the third party cables (albeit with a lot of interference too), so I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cables or with the console. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues and knows what caused them. A video of the distortion is shown here: Cheers

I'm looking for a video released by Team Xecuter sometime in the early 2000s made to promote the durability of their solderless adapter, the Xapt3r. The video shows a couple guys throwing an Xbox with an Xapt3r installed down a flight of stairs, followed by them immediately powering the console on to see that it still functions perfectly. I'm trying to track this video down for archival purposes, and I remember seeing it relatively recently although I was not able to find it again. Many thanks.

Had a weird experience with my latest mod, an xbox 1.6 chipped with an Aladdin XT. First, the dvd drive has a terrible sticking problem I have been unable to fix so far. So, I swapped out dvd drive with another one from a parts xbox, oddly the new dvd drive will play official discs but seems not to read burned discs despite the modchip??? So, unable to boot Hexen I had to swap back to the original (sticky) drive in order to set up the new hdd. When I attempted to run my tried and true copy of Hexen 2017 the disc still refused to recognize at all for some reason (btw just wtf here, this disc has always worked on every other xbox I've modded - but now no), but a copy of Hexen 2018 did in fact boot right up. I went ahead with Hexen 2018 (although I prefer to use 2017 due to having some issue previously with 2018, I can't remember now just what..) and everything seemed to go okay... until I tried to set up hd video modes. I get this error, 'msdash.xbe does not exist' or something similar. Seems that does not get installed when you use Hexen 2018??? According to some thread this file IS included on Hexen 2017 which makes sense because I never had this issue before. Anyways, after all this I just got impatient and ftp'd a copy of msdash.xbe over from another previously modded xbox 1.6 running the same modchip and... now the machine errors out with hardware error 21 every time I try to run the ms dashboard. I feel like I'm starting to lose my mind, I actually already had a couple of other issues earlier on in this mod but got past them. I saw another suggestion to just download msdash.xbe from the internet but when I googled to download it there were like four different versions or something and I really just don't want to mess around anymore. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance if so...

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

Tried it with 2 sets of component cables and had the same result. It's a 1.6 model and does this with various games, maybe 30 games total I've tried. Sometimes it doesn't do it all for 30min, then it'll flicker constantly for an entire hour. Super frustrating. https://youtu.be/wFh10gwcS6E

At first I thought it was the processing into the XISO format or the XISO playback but I've recently bought an NTSC retail disc and I'm still have this issue on my NTSC console. TSOP modded , rev 1.4 Here are the only historical posts I could find about this - https://forums.operationsports.com/forums/espn-nfl-2k5-football/59228-big-problem-xbox-espn-nfl.html The 2003 Post from the first link, It makes no sense that forcing an NTSC game to PAL50 fixed his issue but moreover why am I having an issue with a NTSC game on my NTSC console? I don't have an unmodded console to test, unfortunately.

I've TSOP modded around 6 OG Xboxes. One of the last 2 I worked on, had no composite video output, though audio works and using my component cables worked too. I mod these and and refurbish to the best of my ability and surprisingly the few I've sold have done well and the people are very happy with them. The component on L4A1 is physically damaged on mine. Here's a photo for reference of what one looks like. This is not mine. I can get an actual photo of mine if necessary... Maybe I damaged mine when removing the mobo to clean everything and solder the TSOP joints? who knows. It's damaged. It looks like the top is sheared right off and still hanging there attached off to the side. I'm guessing this is the culprit of my lack of composite. I wouldn't want to sell one with composite cables that doesn't do composite output... I think I should fix this and include the stock cables and they can decide if they want to use an HDMI adapter or not. My question is, where can I buy this component? I found a few threads here discussing it, but never where to get one. Do I need to steal it from a parts console? Secondly, if I do NOT fix this and sell it including an HDMI adapter, will that work just like my component cables are working? For reference, here are some threads discussing this component.