Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'the'.
-
I found this and thought it would potentially make a nice jewel backlight. They are paper thin, 10cm x 10cm EL panels. They are cheap and simple. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000511081220.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3cc67ef9BTKbRB&algo_pvid=70858ccc-5276-4812-92bf-166bf11b0c47&algo_exp_id=70858ccc-5276-4812-92bf-166bf11b0c47-8&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000019280130651"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!CAD!!12.2!!!!!%402101d91e16555800182977430ed7b3!12000019280130651!sea There is a little inverter for the panel, but its small enough to fit behind the harddrive. Its powered by the extra molex connector on the startech ide to sata board. They come in 3.3v, 5v, and 12v. I got a few 5v panels, and a few 12v panels, since thats the available power from the molex. I thought maybe 12v would be brighter, but no, its the same. The panels are all the same. Its only the inverter that is different. Some 12v panels I ordered came with a slightly larger inverter that will not fit in behind the harddrive. So, if you order one of these, make sure its the small inverter that is included.
-
I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how.
-
I want to copy large amounts of data from one Xbox OG HDD directly to another by connecting them both on a PC with two P-ATA channels. With the older XboxHDM 1.9 and 2.2a (which are essentially Linux distro's supporting FATx booted from CD) I can mount the F-partition of both drives using "mount -t fatx /dev/hda55 /media/source" & "mount -t fatx /dev/hdc55 /media/dest". But the problem is that these versions show corrupted file names. But with XboxHDM23USB all the file names are correct. I can even use both of my drives if I launch it manually. But because it's running in QEMU the copying is very slow Now the FATx driver is in the kernel and 1.9 and 2.2a uses the same kernel. Only 2.3USB has a newer kernel, maybe that's where the problem is. So I wanted to boot this 2.3USB version on real hardware. I took the "kernel" and "initrd.gz" and tried booting it using ISOLINUX and PXELINUX, but it just stuck at "Uncompressing Linux... Ok, booting the kernel.". How can I make the kernel and initrd.gz from XBoxHDM23USB booting on real hardware? With 1.9 and 2.2a on real hardware all filenames are corrupted: With 2.3USB it works, but is very slow because it runs in QEMU: But I can't get the 2.3USB version to boot on real hardware using ISOLINUX of PXELINUX:
-
Hi, I have a revision 1.0 Xbox that I originally softmodded. It is now hardmodded and I would like to flash the original 4034 stock bios back onto the TSOP. I was going to use the method in this post: But I got confused when I saw this warning in the manual (attached). I tried the method suggested in the warning first, and was not successful. Am I good to use the TSOP flasher when my console is already softmodded and hardmodded? To restore the TSOP to stock bios?
-
OK... Just starting a separate thread for my next project. I mentioned it in a different thread... but figured better to keep info in one place dedicated for this project. It's a remake of my ArdPromSD project. With the ArdProm... it was limited by program space. I am remaking it with a different MCU to allow more program/variable space. This gives me more room to add to the previous project. One benefit of the remake is only applicable to rev1.6 MBs... will only power on when xbox is powered on instead of being on immediately when plugging in the board. What I have so far (basically all of the ArdPromSD features): Read EEPROM and save to SD card (each read saves a different file name) Read BIN file from SD and write it to EEPROM Things left to do: Feedback (in form of LEDs like before) Reset button EEPROM data decrypting (hoping... will save encrypted data in plain text. This will also allow me to save the eeprom.bin as <serial number>.bin so if you can backup a few xbox's and know which eeprom backup is to which xbox) Really hoping the last one will pan out... I will try my hardest. I plan on shrink the board a bit as well. The downfall... some of the parts will be a handful to hand solder... so DIY'ers may have some trouble. I do plan to open source it eventually I'll post updates here when I have them. Now that I have it working as stated above... I'll get to designing the PCB and ordering everything to try out. I'm hoping to have prototype Hardware up and running within 2 months (china timeframe dependent).
- 191 replies
-
- 4
-
-
-
Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?
-
>Easy XDK Installer V1.4.2< ------------------------------------------------------------- This is an easy way to turn your retail console into a debug kit. There are two main options: 1. Install the XDK dashboard as an "app", meaning that you will have the option to load the dash as an app which will be marked "XDK Launcher" in your apps list. This will boot the dash by booting a Debug version of Cerbios through PBL, which forces the load of the XDK dashboard. This is the safest option, as you have an option in the installer to simply remove this. It is what's recommended for new users who don't know if they even want to run the XDK or are unsure if they want to commit the console they have to it entirely. I foresee a LOT of people using this option. 2 "Standalone mode" turns the console into a full-on, dedicated debug kit. This will wipe your C and E partitions and will end up dedicating the console to this purpose, just like a legitimate MS "Debug Kit". Underneath the XDK Launcher, there is a basic dashboard installed with useful applications and all kinds of goodies which can be accessed through the "Retail" selection (Utilizing Pheonix Bios Loader) in the XDK Launcher. The XDK Launcher will be the default dashboard that you boot up to. The installer also provides the means to flash a debug enabled Cerbios bios through this option at the end of the install. Speaking of that: Please use common sense when deciding whether to flash the debug bios at the end of the standalone install. If you decide not to flash, you will have a Cerbios Debug ini installed that still directs the bios to boot the XDK Launcher and boot into a debug environment. However, if you do not flash, the Cerbios bios you are using must obviously be hardcoded to read the ini/config file. You will probably know if you have intentionally flashed a bios that specifically ignores the ini, since this is a pretty obscure and rare thing to do, and if you don't know why you did it or that you've done it at all... then damn. If you are unsure what your Cerbios is hardcoded to do, just flash the bios at the end of the standalone install. It will be hardcoded debug, and you will not have any doubts as to what you have flashed. This choice was provided for the same reason that the "Application" and "Standalone" modes were created: Flexibility. If you don't want a hardcoded debug bios for any reason, you will be allowed to keep retail. You have been advised. The installer menu items are pretty straightforward. Application mode and Standalone mode both are able to install with either the 4627 or 5849 XDK Launcher. Once you make a selection, simply "Install XDK & Setup XDK-Launcher". The rest takes care of itself. Its as easy as pie. I recommend the newest Launcher as this has the most compatibility with the Win XP SDK/XDK toolkit. This should cover most case uses. However I will add features and modify the installer over time as I receive feedback. I am researching softmods, although installing on a softmod is not an ideal situation, for a few reasons. One of them being memory. The only real requirements for this install is 128MB of RAM. This will allow you to have the overhead necessary to run the debug environment and still be able to use the full stock 64MB of RAM that most consoles do. This can even be installed on a console with a stock 8GB HDD. MS Debug Kits were equipped with this. If you don't have 128MB of RAM... The XDK launcher will boot, but your experience will be unstable to varying degrees and I do NOT recommend it. If you would like to use a SuperIO serial debugger, I would recommend performing a TSOP flash and keeping the pin header free for the ribbon cable. LPC breakout boards DO exist however, and this may be an option for you to consider so that you can have a modchip AND have a pin header for the SuperIO. I describe how I built my development kit with SuperIO in the thread I linked below. I absolutely encourage you to build one as it is a satisfying project and super cool to say that you did! Also included is every single piece of software imaginable on the PC side. Everything from Windows XP itself, to Visual Studio 2003, to the MS VS2003 XDK Installer, and of course, the Virtual Machine HDD image is linked below. The XDK version numbers are a lie. 5849.16 is the latest version of the XDK. Please remember: The HDD image is in VMDK file format and can be used with either VMware or VirtualBox. If you use VMware, download the VMware Tools ISO. It is version 10.0.0 and is compatible with XP. If you use VirtualBox, use the VirtualBox Additions ISO. These will install the respective drivers for your virtual machine and make the experience much more pleasurable and easy. Generic drivers suck! I recommend VirtualBox as they have a link provided for their software. VMWare isn't exactly free (although a free version can be found if you look hard enough) and they make tracking it down a pain. If somebody would like to locate it for me, please do. Please do not use vx.dxt (VerifierX) in your "DXT" folder. It serves no purpose and causes some things to not load and to crash, namely anything Cromwell based like PBL or XBlast. A LOT of this installer was coded by DarkDestiny. Although the collab is no longer a thing, it would feel wrong to not assign credit for this, as it would make it seem like I want people to believe that I was the sole coder of everything that was written. That is not the case and I do not want this to be misrepresented. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Installer Link: Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aW9MXogE_qxcWFLoXXOdrGsN3Wi79Kdn/view?usp=sharing Virtual Machine XDK HDD Image Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Du_3Fk0s2gIYu9DBbMXabJiMSRf8KSK5/view?usp=drive_link VMWare Tools ISO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sQuSOaTLFBy7aqtyQavARY-Az9Y15RSl/view?usp=sharing VirtualBox Additions ISO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xXHHs7lNT9WeB_wWceMRpxi6a2CDtYu5/view?usp=drive_link -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.4.2 -Changed and added to all the readmes and further clarified what everything is and what to be cautious of when using it. -Cleaned up menu text and made things a little tiny bit neater. That's pretty much it. 1.4.1 -Changed XML commentary, installer messaging and structure, as well as finishing readme's for each section and adding further explanation of operations so that people can have a better understanding of what is being done and how. -Added ability to say no to flashing Cerbios at the end of the Standalone installs. It is a hardcoded debug bios that is flashed. However, there is a debug ini that is installed anyway, so if you don't want to flash a hardcoded debug Cerbios for any reason, you will be given the choice not to flash and the debug ini will still enable you to boot into the XDK launcher. -Fixed a bug that copied the incorrect bios to HDD when selecting option to flash back to retail bios under "Back to Retail" section.
-
So I thought I was done with the 1.6 I recently fixed but it seems like there is only working audio after I reconnect the AV cable. I have tried component, composite and HDMI converter cable. All cables work with other consoles. So after a cold boot it has no audio, I reconnected the AV cable and the audio is working again... What could be causing this?
-
New user here, so my apologies if I've posted this in the wrong sub-forum. What is the best utility boot disk for an (modded) original XBox, please? So that if your Xbox won't boot because of a problem with the hard drive, then you can download and burn a disc image containing things like an XBox file manager, a utility to lock/unlock the hard drive, (re)-install a specfic dashboard (such as Evo-X), etc. Then put this disk in your XBox, boot up, and you then get access to the utilities so you can fix the problem just using the botable utilities disc. I vaguely remember Slayers and Hexen, but not enough to decide which to use now, plus there might be better or more useful such utility discs nowadays. So what would anyone recommend please? Also, another question, if you'll allow me. Say you have a working original XBox, and it boots up from hard drive properly, to a working dashboard, and you can then load your games and emulator from hard drive. Basically, everything is working fine. But you want to try a different dashboard, then if you were to copy everything from the XBox's partition to a temporary folder on the, say, F: drive, such as: F:\XBMC_bootup_C_partition then if you installed a different dashboard, tried it, and didn;t like it, and wanted to go back to the original, XBMC dashboard, then if you just deleted everything from the partition, and copied every file back from the 'F:\XBMC_bootup_C_partition' folder back into the partition then would the XBox be returned to it's former boot-up state, and everything would work properly, as before? Thanks for any answers.
-
Well thanks for having me I did alot of the original mods when the first came out and with Avington kids nownpulled out all the old consoles from xbox og up to 360 along with other brands as well. Just trying to jog memory.in what I put in mine amd here helped. Want to move it up a level and fox the x3ir in there. Also looking at adding usb saga and other mod cons as well.
-
Hello everyone, Yesterday, I bought a Xbox (10€) at a flea market that stopped working after an EEPROM change. The console displays no image and flashes red. When I opened the console, one of the legs of EEPROM 24wc02j is replaced by a wire soldered directly to the motherboard, as the pad is no longer present. If I solder a modchip or a Pi Pico, will I be able to operate the Xbox? Have you a solution to bypass internal EEPROM ? Thanks in advance for your help.
-
Hello I recently got an OG Xbox kind of cheap together with some demos and 2 controllers. I tested it and it worked all good for the demos at least, when I put games in it didnt recognize them at all because they were copies something that I didnt really check when I did buy them because they were in DVD boxes with printed labels and all that. After some searching I found that the console was modded because it was showing Xecuter 2 on startup, I didnt know about that because never had an Xbox before so I thought that was normal startup screen lol. So after playing a bit with the settings I gone to flash bios which made sense for me after flashing the first option which I dont remember the name now It started playing one of the copy games but it was stuttering a lot after a while. After another restart I gone to flash the second option and then it stuck without flashing or doing anything for like 20 minutes after which I turned the console off. Now after I turn it on it makes 2-3 attempts to turn on and then starts flashing red-green light constantly, the DVD drives responds and opens up when I push the button for the tray but other from that I have nothing on screen and it doesnt boot up into any menu from what I understand. What are my options from there ? Can I somehow make a new install of the firmware or flash some new bios to it or maybe is the mod messing up ? Any help will be much appreciated as this is my first Xbox console and my knowledge of it is extremely lacking.
-
Hello everyone, I finished modding my Xbox about 2 months ago and honestly haven’t had the time to sit down and play it. This weekend finally I could and noticed that when I started using it this high pitched coil whine type of noise started emitting from the right side of the console. Link here for a video where you can hear it - https://imgur.com/gallery/xbox-high-pitched-noise-uhg7cir . As I’m writing this it has went away and came back twice. The console is a 1.0 with the Minebea 1.0 original psu. I cleaned everything and the psu looked fine when I had everything out a few months ago. Please note that I have replaced my fans with a noctua on the GPU and nexus on the case, and a new 1tb hard drive so I don’t think it’s the normal noise makers that are making that noise. Any testing I should do to help narrow this down? Console works great though and runs cool.
-
My Xbox is running a 160 GB IDE from 2007 or something. I needed to ask this about 3 years ago, I used Crunchbite's (on Homebrew Discord) 8 GB Etcher image to prepare the new drive then iirc I used the XBox Formatter to make the partitions (which automatically set the cluster size to 16 KB) then I copied all the C:\ drive content from the original 8 GB HDD via FatXPlorer and also transferred some games and homebrew. And at that time when I was using the stock HDD my Xbox was giving me constant 10-11 mb/s on my diy crossover cable connection to my laptop. After I put that new HDD in I didn't notice that right away but the max transfer speeds I get are around 3-7 mb/s on the same crossover ethernet cable. Is it related to the cluster size or is the HDD just bad or on it last legs?
-
As title, fully finished and working R3DUX Xecuter 3 cloned chip, complete, immaculate and fully functionally tested. This is my first finished R3dux. I may have a few others in due course. Please note; Only the chip and the two bare accessory boards are included currently at this price. I have simply not had time to do, nor inclination, any of the connector wires etc. That stuff drives me barmy. The two bare boards are included for you to complete. Nothing difficult by any means. The wire schematics for the cables etc are on the R3DUX github. Or you can simply use X3 cables if you have some, or message Steve, he loves making 'em (sorry Steve) You'll need the red pcb finishing first. Again Steve has them and he has the Pro Switches and LCD cables and also the large front panels too. So this sale includes only; 1) The R3DUX chip itself + Pinheader (I have some). 2) The 2 extra PCB boards as pictured. What you see is what you will get. The chip is flashed with V3294 X3. Backup has r3dux 3.1 flashbios and takes a few tries of power+eject together to catch it. I usually get in two or three tries, but will always work. This has also been fully tested and flashes the main rom no problem. Xblast also recognises the chip as X3 and also flashes it. Paypal F&F (leave note blank) or Paypal G&S (fees to you) at this price. This includes tracked UK postage. £47 inclusive. GBP This is an 'old-skool' chip. You should make yourself aware of usage and read up, it can be complicated for beginners, as the Xecuter 3 always was. Config Live is genius as we know, but it is overall not some user-friendly operating system style chip.
-
Hello, I'm new here. I'm from Italy so my english couldn't be perfect, forgive me A friend of mine gave me an Xbox ver. 1.6, he wants me to try to fix that after he careless removed the Aladdin modchip. In other words, he removed it without using a soldering iron; the modchip was directly soldered to LPC holes. He also removed the LPC rebuild. I've got the original HDD still working, so I'd like to bring it back without installing a new modchip. My friend himself would want it alive as a stock Xbox. Here's the link with some pics I've taken: https://imgur.com/a/Fk3W0pI Any suggestions are accepted. Thanks in advance. Max
-
Hi - having gotten the xbox original bug recently I have acquired a few original xbox consoles from friends and colleagues. I have a 1.0 that has a fan on the GPU so it's pretty noisey. I have a 1.6 and that can't be Tspoped and I don't have the skills required to add a chip. Today, a colleague gave me an xbox 1.1 - I opened it and checked to see if there was a fan on the GPU and there isn't - which is good in terms of noise. This also means that I can TSOP the 1.1. I have 3 or 4 more lying around in my attic that I collected over the years at car boot sales (mainly to get the games that came with them in bundle packs) - is there a particular model that I should look out for like the 1.1 seems to have the best of everything for me right now or am I wrong? Which version do you think is the best and why? Thanks in advance.
-
After I got a bit annoyed that some saved games no longer work because of the HDD key (XsavSig doesn't work either), I got the eeprom out of my old xbox and created a small program using Arduino to read the eeprom data. The HDD key is encrypted with the RC4 algorithm. I assume that you have to decrypt it first in order to be able to use it in config magic? As far as I know, the RC4 key is stored somewhere else in the Xbox, does anyone know where? Is the key unique for every xbox?
-
Hi, i have a Xbox 1.6 and i want to add some fans, 1 for the back, 1 for the CPU and 1 for the GPU. Can i just use a 3-way splitter? or will this draw to many (milli)amps. I know some pc motherboard will allow up to 1amp but others only 0.5. If it is to much i can always solder a extra 12v + ground cable from the psu directly and a extra signal wire from the fan header for fan control. That should also work. Pleas let me know, thanks
-
Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.
-
I wondered. Are the community able to make new original Xbox consoles? Like replicating the hardware. Since people can hardmod it they can probably recreate it. Exact or not. Sooner or later we might need to do this too. Sincerely, Meerjel01.
-
I'm so proud so far I'm a totall newbie to soldering but i just did my first succesfull total refurb of a transluent 1.4 box (full recap mobo, powersupply and DVD player, new cooler paste & pin header mod chip install) and it still works hahaha but i'm unable to find the location where the D0 cable needs to be soldered to the 1.4 mobo (i believe its called the Xbox motherboard D0 point) to let the Openxenium chip to work fully. I know i'm probly overseeing this but is there a picture where i should solder this to the the mobo? i see a lot of 1.0 and 1.6 YT clips but none for the 1.4 Thanks !!!
-
The more I check my Xboxes the more I find. Today I popped another open, it's been working perfectly but had some caps gone, different ones to I have been finding though, they're the more solid type caps. The guy I had do my modchips two decades ago seemed to like sticking on heat sinks, maybe to make his work seem premium, unusual place to bother putting one though I think. Anyway, here are the caps that I believe are popped. I'm not even sure what that mod chip is, I was able to put Cerbios 2.42 on it with XblastOS no problems. The board looked nasty around the two caps so I've cleaned that all up with a spray can of electroncis PCB cleaner. Here's the full board, they're the only bad looking caps, the clock caps been removed at some point thankfully. This is a zoom in after the clean up, it came up pretty good I think. Now what caps can I buy to fix those two? Hopefully I can source some locally somewhere to speed up the process. I have these in my Xbox parts collection, will these do the trick? I can't read much on the others but do see they're 6.3v. Thanks in advance for the caps advice and identifying the mod chip. I just noticed it has a Foxlink PSU so I popped it out for a look and found this What is this brown stuff? Scorch marks on the bottom of the case Otherwise it looks OK
- 3 replies
-
- help
- identifying
- (and 12 more)
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48