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Hey everyone. There’s been a lot of confusion lately, and I want to clear the air as best I can. I’ll try to keep this post short and focused on the core issues. The Blog Post The reason any of this is being discussed right now is because of my recent write-up, Theft in the Xbox Scene. The post focuses specifically on the theft of code from X_boxHD+ and Project S_tellar. Everything else in the article exists to explain how and why that theft happened. That issue, the code theft, remains unresolved. And until it is, it’s something we need to address as a community. OGXbox Rule Changes We've had no part in the recent rule changes regarding Xbox HDMI projects or Cerbios/PrometheOS. I was honestly shocked to see them, but I understand why. I'm not the owner of the site, so I can only state on why I believe this change felt like it was needed. All Current Xbox HDMI HARD Mod Discussion Disallowed Counterfeit copies of X_boxHD+ have recently started appearing more often. These are not forks or open projects, but direct hardware clones made to run our firmware without permission. The OGXbox staff has been professional and responsive in removing posts about these devices, and I truly appreciate how they’ve handled it. I do not believe this rule was aimed at O_XHD. We have no legal issue with that project. Cerbios and PrometheOS Links DISALLOWED The blog post outlines in detail what was taken and the concerns we raised. I understand the forum’s decision to take a cautious approach, especially when the parties involved have yet to address the issue directly. DMCA Now that we have proof of theft, we are required to take steps to protect our work. That includes submitting DMCA takedown notices for products and listings that include our stolen code. Unfortunately, we have no direct contact with the people behind these projects. In the case of PrometheOS, while part of it is open source, many parts of the codebase have no identifiable authors. This lack of transparency makes it impossible to have a productive conversation or resolve the issue privately, leaving us with no choice but to pursue formal action. I know this can feel like it affects more than just those directly involved, and that is not something we take lightly. Our focus is solely on removing content that knowingly uses our work without permission. This includes. PrometheOS or Cerbios boards being sold with either included. OpenXenium products with PrometheOS or Cerbios include. Modxo devices designed to circumvent the protected works of the X_boxHD+. Acknowledgement At the end of the day, we all understand that this scene exists in a fragile space. Microsoft could step in at any point. But while we’re here, we have a responsibility to look out for each other and to create a space where ideas are respected and contributions are protected. None of this is about drama, gatekeeping, or picking sides. It’s about setting a standard that says theft and retaliation are not acceptable. If the theft is addressed, everything else can move forward. That is all we are asking. Even if you don’t agree with me personally, I hope you can see the bigger picture. We’re all here because we love this hardware and want to see what’s possible with it. Let’s make sure we’re building something worth being proud of. --- Please keep this thread on-topic. I’m here to talk about the actual issue at hand and I’ll do my best to answer any questions related to that. Thanks for taking the time to read.

Hey everyone, I’ve been diving into some classic OG Xbox games, and I came across FreeCell Solitaire. I know it’s a simple game, but I’m curious, why is it still such a popular choice on the console? Is there something about the OG Xbox version that makes it stand out compared to playing it on a PC or other platforms? Also, does anyone have tips for making the most out of the experience or any memories of playing it on the OG Xbox? Would love to hear your thoughts on this old-school gem!

i had been using the modified m8 evo(i think that's what it is called) bios because there is just something about seeing that stock boot image that i love. i don't know how to describe it but, it just does something to me. i recently started using cerbios because i wanted to take full advantage of my 3tb drive. so how can i make cerbios have the stock boot flubber and sound?

It has long been thought that the Xyclops chip, which contains the BIOS on a v1.6 motherboard, is not flashable. However I recently discovered it has a serial port with a variety of interesting commands. It supports dumping the BIOS as well as the Intel 8051 code that runs the SMC functions of the chip. And just like the other Xbox versions that have the TSOP flash, we can reprogram the BIOS on the v1.6. In one way this mod is better than your typical TSOP flash because it's easy to recover from if you screw it up. The serial port will still be available. Tutorial Required items: 3.3V USB to UART adapter. You can find many of these available online at very low prices. See if you can get one that has a TX resistor value lower than 1k because the Xbox's RX has a 1k pulldown. v1.6 Xbox with Xyclops marked A-A02. A-B01 is not supported. Soldering iron Either the GUI for Windows or the command-line script: GUI Download XycloModGUI by OGXLABS https://www.ogxlabs.com/xyclomodgui Script Python installed on your PC Download the script https://github.com/Prehistoricman/Xbox_SMC/blob/master/Xyclops/xyclops_flasher.py A 256KiB BIOS bin file Steps: Connect your USB to UART adapter to the Xbox. This can be done either by connecting to the AV port, or by opening the Xbox and using internal connections. Internal connections Xyclops pin 29 is DEBUG. Wire it to the 3.3V standby voltage. Xyclops pin 64 is TXD. Wire it to the adapter's RX pin. Either: Near Xyclops: OR under the AV port: Xyclops pin 63 is RXD. Wire it to the adapter's TX pin. Either: Top side, near AV port: OR under the AV port: Connect ground to the adapter's GND pin. You can use the xbox metal case, any screw holding the motherboard down, or pin 2 of the LPC header (see pin layout here). AV cable - not advisable! See AV plug diagram here https://xboxdevwiki.net/AV_Cables Pin 5 is DEBUG. Wire this to 3.3V. Pin 18 is TXD. Wire this to the adapter's RX pin. Pin 6 is RXD. Wire this to the adapter's TX pin. Remove resistors below the AV port: R5M3, R4M10. This will affect the video mode recognition and can prevent normal display, so they should be replaced after the mod is complete. Connect any ground pin (such as pin 6, 7, or to the adapter's GND pin. If you cut LFRAME to do a modchip install, you will have to reconnect it. Plug in the USB. It's better to do this before powering on the Xbox Plug in the Xbox. It can be left in standby. Identify what serial port your adapter has. On Windows you can expect it to something like COM5. GUI method: Run the XycloModGUI exe Select the COM port if you know it Click the Connect to Xyclops button Click Browse... to select the BIOS to flash Click Start Selected Operation to flash the BIOS to your Xbox. It should take about 6 minutes Script method: Install Python 3 if you haven't got it already Open cmd, powershell, bash, or whatever the terminal is on your PC. Execute the script by writing python xyclops_flasher.py your_bios.bin COM5 to the terminal, replacing your_bios.bin with the path to your BIOS file, and COM5 with your serial port. Press enter Follow the on-screen text. It should say Xyclops communication established and ask if you want to erase the flash. Once the connection has been made, or even attempted, you may be unable to turn on or off the Xbox. That's normal. The SMC gets frozen while the serial is active. The Xyclops can get upset and stop responding sometimes. If you can't get communication, try unplugging the Xbox for 10 seconds. If you get erase timeout, make sure you made the GND connection. If you can't get communication, then your serial adapter might have too much internal resistance. Identify its TX resistor and reduce it to ~500 ohms. The flashing process takes about 2 minutes, and the verification (if you want to do it) takes another 2 minutes. If you want to verify again, use the -v option: python xyclops_flasher.py your_bios.bin COM5 -v The Xbox power button should work again, so try turning it on. If you get video issues (like greyscale video) and you removed two resistors in step 1.2.5, you will need to place the resistors back. Disconnect the DEBUG wire for enhanced stability. The Xyclops will freeze whenever it sees any activity on the RX pin. FAQ Can we use a BIOS bigger than 256KiB? Not on a retail xbox. Some rare devkits may be able to do 512KiB but I have not confirmed that. I ran the script and my Xbox won't turn on! Yes, the SMC will freeze when it receives serial communication. The script should resolve that if it exits successfully, so I must assume it failed. You can unplug your Xbox for 10 seconds and plug it back in to reset and try again. Can this be done via a software method? Not to my knowledge, but it is rumoured to have been discovered. Technically the answer is yes, but it involves using the serial first and then reprogramming the SMC (advanced). What else can it do? The Xyclops serial port is able to do a lot of low-level actions on the SMC. For example, it can 'press' the front panel buttons, change fan speed, change LED colours. It can also potentially do some hacky things such as spoofing the video cable mode, or bypassing the boot challenge (FRAG). We are also able to re-program the SMC which could lead to some more advanced mods for specific and niche purposes. Through the AV port??? Yeah I know right? We can't be sure why Microsoft made it this way. It's too slow for factory programming AND there's those resistors preventing it on retail units. It could definitely have expedited the development process of Xyclops, but that doesn't explain why it was left present in the retail motherboard.

I am really glad I found this forum website. Last year when I started modding most of the content I found online was so outdated. Somehow I missed this website. Are unopened and unmodded XBOXs becoming more and more rare? Well, I suppose I know the obvious answer to that question - yes. My real question is to the professional collectors. What is your opinion on breaking of the stickers on and opening up suspected rare XBOXs? Do you do it when you get one to inspect for dust and corrosion or is it more important to a collector to keep the stickers intact? Aside from obviously rare limited edition XBOXs what version(s) 1.0-1.6b are the most rare? One would think 1.0 XBOXs are the most valued and desirable. Are 1.0 XBOXs desirable to collectors? Are certain versions 1.0-1.6b becoming more desirable or rare than others?

Hi there everyone so anyways I’m just wondering, is there a recommended way of programming on the Xbox in 2025? I know a little bit about c programming and sdl2 programming but for simple applications. So can anyone recommend some suggestions of programming for the Xbox?

i got one of those xedusa hdmi adapters for my xboxs today. the picture is the best i have ever seen on my 1.6 but, the wavy lines are horrible on my 1.4. i'm strongly considering removing the hard mod and hdd from my 1.4 and modding another xbox. the 1.6 has the issues with displaying some games in 480p and the 1.4 has the wavy line issue that no one seems to really be able to figure out and fix. so, between the 1.0-1.3, which is the best xbox to mod? i'm looking for the most relaible and the best video/audio quality.

Recently, I got an unmodified Japanese version of the original XBOX, NTSC-J. Meanwhile, I also have several game discs with Traditional Chinese. However, since the language options of the Japanese version of XBOX system do not include Traditional Chinese, when I run these game discs with Traditional Chinese, I can only run the English version. Are there any solutions, such as adding the system language to the MS Dashboard? In addition, I also found that some discs can update the MS Dashboard to version 5960. If I perform offline updates using game discs with Traditional Chinese, is it possible to add the Traditional Chinese system language to the MS Dashboard?

Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?

i recapped the entire foxlink psu with rubycon caps of the exact uf needed. i also purchased a delta psu to see if the different brand would change anything and it did not. i recapped the entire motherboard except for about 5 of the 22uf caps. i used rubycon on everything except the five in front of the processors. i used 5 nichicon polymer caps there. i soldered a wire to each screw hole of the psu and soldered one wire to the metal outer shell and one to a screw hole on the motherboard(to make sure it was all grounded well). i also recently tried disconnecting the power cables from the dvd drive and harddrive to see if those caused any issues. there was no change. i have an open xenuim chip on it and on a 1.6v. i also have the same bioses on both(evo and cerbios). the 1.6 has a perfectly clear and crisp pic. it is flawless when i boot with cerbios. but i just cannot get rid of the interference on the 1.1v. i'm using the xedusa+ hdmi adapter. i have already tried exchanging it for another one and have the exact same problem. i also have the official microsoft hd pack and have tried it and still get interference on it. about the only thing that does not give me interference is a monster xbox hd cable but, i do not like the color display when i use that cable. the interference on the xedusa is usually in the form of diagonal or vertical lines that run across the screen during 480p output. 720p and 1080i seem to be fine. any and all tips and help is appreciated! even a good educated guess would be appreciated! oh, and i also have the same problems with unmodified 1.0 xboxs.

Hi I want to ask what kind of Pico psu need to use and what Powersupply i need. I read about 12 volts 10 amps or do I need one with 16 amps? Is only 12 volt or could I also use 24 Volts? I wanna put one of these insode a xbox 1.4. https://github.com/wiredopposite/ATX2Xbox

I hit the right thumbstick and it pulls up a menu that says "Exit game" but once you hit that option there's nothing to go directly back to Emustation; but only to restart the Xbox back to the dashboard. Am I missing something?

Hi, i just bought an aladdin chip from amazon and i've sucsessfully installed it on my xbox, but i want to change the original flubber logo and the xbox logo, can i do it with my aladdin chip? thanks my xbox is an 1.6 version

I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how.

not sure how but i managed to ruin that trace as i was cleaning up the lpc port. can someone tell me where i need to run a jumper wire please?

i have resoldered, amtech fluxed, and solder wicked the lpc ports several times over 2 days and there are a few holes that just will not come clean. i was running my iron on 490 but turned it down to 395. i'm afraid i will burn a trace up or knock one of those tiny resistors close to the port off if i keep trying. i have installed modchips twice before but, that was a 1.4 and 1.6 xbox. both already had the holes clean. this is my first 1.1v to mod and it had the filled in holes. so, how do i get the stubborn ones clean without damaging the board? please help.

i have a 1.1v and i am having issues with faint wavy lines on the screen that i am trying to make perfect so it will be my main xbox.. also have some 1.0v's that are doing it but to a lesser degree. i really don't want to do a full board recap, especially don't want to have to replace those smds, so i want to find which specific caps that filter the video signal. i have already replaced several caps and messed up one of them that caused a dead short(has been repaired). so i really don't want to just do all the caps. plus, those 1.1v boards have a lot of them. i'd really like to just focus on the problem caps. and yes, i have given a visual inspection and replace the 5 in front of the processors with poly caps.

this is a 1.1v board. i replaced some caps on the mobo and the psu and it was working pretty well but, still showing some intereference in the video signal. so, i replaced some more caps on the mobo and psu to try and clean things up a little more. now, when i hit the power button, it power cycles twice and then frags on the 3rd cycle. i'm really not sure what i did wrong. i do not see any shorts ot burned traces. could some of u look at these pics and help me please? i wanted the pics to be very high definition so that u could really zoom in and look at them but that made the file sizes too big for here so, i uploaded them to imgur. here is the link https://imgur.com/a/f7zlPLT. those silver caps are all nichicon 1500uf 16v(or maybe 25v) poly caps. i have also tried the psu on another xbox and it seems to work fine. so it appears that i did screw something on the mobo up.

i have replaced caps on probably 8 xboxs. i have video issues with many of them and i'm wondering if replacing all of the caps is really needed? i usually replace the ones in front of the cpu/gpu and any others that look damaged. i ordered a 1.1v xbox that i am planning to mod and hopefully use it as my main xbox. i want it to look and sound the best possible.

So I thought I was done with the 1.6 I recently fixed but it seems like there is only working audio after I reconnect the AV cable. I have tried component, composite and HDMI converter cable. All cables work with other consoles. So after a cold boot it has no audio, I reconnected the AV cable and the audio is working again... What could be causing this?

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the 1.0v is generally thought to have the best video output. i've never heard a definite reason why the 1.4v usually has video issues(often in the form of wavy lines). i have read were some speculate that this is because microsoft lowered the power of the video signal on the 1.4. so, since the 1.0 has 5 caps in front of the cpu/gpu instead of 3, i wonder if adding the extra 2 caps to the 1.4v might give it a little extra power and help the video signal any? has anyone ever tried it? is there any danger to the xbox if the extra 2 caps are added?

Hey guys I just wanted your opinions on the mClassic graphics upscaler and if its better than the retroTINK 4K. I've been using the mClassic for a while now and I've been blown away at how much of a difference it makes at fixing jaggies and just making the overall image look almost a generation ahead of its time at least resolution wise. I've heard about the retroTINK but the price is more than an mClassic and I heard It takes some tinkering to get the settings right while the mClassic is plug and play. I want to know if its worth it making the jump to a retroTink rather than an mClassic. I'm also pairing it with a Chimeric HDMI adapter for maximum resolution and clarity, let me know your experience with both.

i've tried the brook wingman 2 and the Plug and Play OGX-Mini (OGX360). both have their issues with precision. i tried the game "black" today on my xbox series x and og xbox. i used the same xbox series controller and kept swapping between the systems while using the ogx-mini to connect to the og xbox. when connected to the ogx mini, the controller had a larger deadzone which makes it difficult to play shooters with. it's fine for a game like marvel ultimate alliance but not a shooter. has anyone found a truly good solution yet?

i.4v hard modded xbox. i have an hdmi adapter for it. i'm having problems with seeing wavey lines go accross the screen during darker scenes. i've seen this issue before with other xboxs and various video connectors. is there a specific cap on the board that is known to cause this issue? i replaced several of them but not all of them when i modded the system.