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i recapped the entire foxlink psu with rubycon caps of the exact uf needed. i also purchased a delta psu to see if the different brand would change anything and it did not. i recapped the entire motherboard except for about 5 of the 22uf caps. i used rubycon on everything except the five in front of the processors. i used 5 nichicon polymer caps there. i soldered a wire to each screw hole of the psu and soldered one wire to the metal outer shell and one to a screw hole on the motherboard(to make sure it was all grounded well). i also recently tried disconnecting the power cables from the dvd drive and harddrive to see if those caused any issues. there was no change. i have an open xenuim chip on it and on a 1.6v. i also have the same bioses on both(evo and cerbios). the 1.6 has a perfectly clear and crisp pic. it is flawless when i boot with cerbios. but i just cannot get rid of the interference on the 1.1v. i'm using the xedusa+ hdmi adapter. i have already tried exchanging it for another one and have the exact same problem. i also have the official microsoft hd pack and have tried it and still get interference on it. about the only thing that does not give me interference is a monster xbox hd cable but, i do not like the color display when i use that cable. the interference on the xedusa is usually in the form of diagonal or vertical lines that run across the screen during 480p output. 720p and 1080i seem to be fine. any and all tips and help is appreciated! even a good educated guess would be appreciated! oh, and i also have the same problems with unmodified 1.0 xboxs.

Hi I want to ask what kind of Pico psu need to use and what Powersupply i need. I read about 12 volts 10 amps or do I need one with 16 amps? Is only 12 volt or could I also use 24 Volts? I wanna put one of these insode a xbox 1.4. https://github.com/wiredopposite/ATX2Xbox

Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?

It has long been thought that the Xyclops chip, which contains the BIOS on a v1.6 motherboard, is not flashable. However I recently discovered it has a serial port with a variety of interesting commands. It supports dumping the BIOS as well as the Intel 8051 code that runs the SMC functions of the chip. And just like the other Xbox versions that have the TSOP flash, we can reprogram the BIOS on the v1.6. In one way this mod is better than your typical TSOP flash because it's easy to recover from if you screw it up. The serial port will still be available. Tutorial Required items: 3.3V USB to UART adapter. You can find many of these available online at very low prices. See if you can get one that has a TX resistor value lower than 1k because the Xbox's RX has a 1k pulldown. v1.6 Xbox with Xyclops marked A-A02. A-B01 is not supported. Soldering iron Either the GUI for Windows or the command-line script: GUI Download XycloModGUI by OGXLABS https://www.ogxlabs.com/xyclomodgui Script Python installed on your PC Download the script https://github.com/Prehistoricman/Xbox_SMC/blob/master/Xyclops/xyclops_flasher.py A 256KiB BIOS bin file Steps: Connect your USB to UART adapter to the Xbox. This can be done either by connecting to the AV port, or by opening the Xbox and using internal connections. Internal connections Xyclops pin 29 is DEBUG. Wire it to the 3.3V standby voltage. Xyclops pin 64 is TXD. Wire it to the adapter's RX pin. Either: Near Xyclops: OR under the AV port: Xyclops pin 63 is RXD. Wire it to the adapter's TX pin. Either: Top side, near AV port: OR under the AV port: Connect ground to the adapter's GND pin. You can use the xbox metal case, any screw holding the motherboard down, or pin 2 of the LPC header (see pin layout here). AV cable - not advisable! See AV plug diagram here https://xboxdevwiki.net/AV_Cables Pin 5 is DEBUG. Wire this to 3.3V. Pin 18 is TXD. Wire this to the adapter's RX pin. Pin 6 is RXD. Wire this to the adapter's TX pin. Remove resistors below the AV port: R5M3, R4M10. This will affect the video mode recognition and can prevent normal display, so they should be replaced after the mod is complete. Connect any ground pin (such as pin 6, 7, or to the adapter's GND pin. If you cut LFRAME to do a modchip install, you will have to reconnect it. Plug in the USB. It's better to do this before powering on the Xbox Plug in the Xbox. It can be left in standby. Identify what serial port your adapter has. On Windows you can expect it to something like COM5. GUI method: Run the XycloModGUI exe Select the COM port if you know it Click the Connect to Xyclops button Click Browse... to select the BIOS to flash Click Start Selected Operation to flash the BIOS to your Xbox. It should take about 6 minutes Script method: Install Python 3 if you haven't got it already Open cmd, powershell, bash, or whatever the terminal is on your PC. Execute the script by writing python xyclops_flasher.py your_bios.bin COM5 to the terminal, replacing your_bios.bin with the path to your BIOS file, and COM5 with your serial port. Press enter Follow the on-screen text. It should say Xyclops communication established and ask if you want to erase the flash. Once the connection has been made, or even attempted, you may be unable to turn on or off the Xbox. That's normal. The SMC gets frozen while the serial is active. The Xyclops can get upset and stop responding sometimes. If you can't get communication, try unplugging the Xbox for 10 seconds. If you get erase timeout, make sure you made the GND connection. If you can't get communication, then your serial adapter might have too much internal resistance. Identify its TX resistor and reduce it to ~500 ohms. The flashing process takes about 2 minutes, and the verification (if you want to do it) takes another 2 minutes. If you want to verify again, use the -v option: python xyclops_flasher.py your_bios.bin COM5 -v The Xbox power button should work again, so try turning it on. If you get video issues (like greyscale video) and you removed two resistors in step 1.2.5, you will need to place the resistors back. Disconnect the DEBUG wire for enhanced stability. The Xyclops will freeze whenever it sees any activity on the RX pin. FAQ Can we use a BIOS bigger than 256KiB? Not on a retail xbox. Some rare devkits may be able to do 512KiB but I have not confirmed that. I ran the script and my Xbox won't turn on! Yes, the SMC will freeze when it receives serial communication. The script should resolve that if it exits successfully, so I must assume it failed. You can unplug your Xbox for 10 seconds and plug it back in to reset and try again. Can this be done via a software method? Not to my knowledge, but it is rumoured to have been discovered. Technically the answer is yes, but it involves using the serial first and then reprogramming the SMC (advanced). What else can it do? The Xyclops serial port is able to do a lot of low-level actions on the SMC. For example, it can 'press' the front panel buttons, change fan speed, change LED colours. It can also potentially do some hacky things such as spoofing the video cable mode, or bypassing the boot challenge (FRAG). We are also able to re-program the SMC which could lead to some more advanced mods for specific and niche purposes. Through the AV port??? Yeah I know right? We can't be sure why Microsoft made it this way. It's too slow for factory programming AND there's those resistors preventing it on retail units. It could definitely have expedited the development process of Xyclops, but that doesn't explain why it was left present in the retail motherboard.

Hi there everyone so anyways I’m just wondering, is there a recommended way of programming on the Xbox in 2025? I know a little bit about c programming and sdl2 programming but for simple applications. So can anyone recommend some suggestions of programming for the Xbox?

I hit the right thumbstick and it pulls up a menu that says "Exit game" but once you hit that option there's nothing to go directly back to Emustation; but only to restart the Xbox back to the dashboard. Am I missing something?

Hi, i just bought an aladdin chip from amazon and i've sucsessfully installed it on my xbox, but i want to change the original flubber logo and the xbox logo, can i do it with my aladdin chip? thanks my xbox is an 1.6 version

I'd like to replace the logo that appears between the Xbox flubber animation upon startup and the loaded dashboard on a soft modded xbox using UnleashX. Right now its an X inside a cube with some matrix test in the background. Is that possible and how would I go about doing it? I am using the default skin and I don't see anything in the E:\UDATA\9e115330\0064122817A8\ directory labeled Skin. I do see a UX Splash but I changed that to no avail Ive tried googling around but I think im missing the right keywords so I wanted to create a thread if anyone knew how.

not sure how but i managed to ruin that trace as i was cleaning up the lpc port. can someone tell me where i need to run a jumper wire please?

i have resoldered, amtech fluxed, and solder wicked the lpc ports several times over 2 days and there are a few holes that just will not come clean. i was running my iron on 490 but turned it down to 395. i'm afraid i will burn a trace up or knock one of those tiny resistors close to the port off if i keep trying. i have installed modchips twice before but, that was a 1.4 and 1.6 xbox. both already had the holes clean. this is my first 1.1v to mod and it had the filled in holes. so, how do i get the stubborn ones clean without damaging the board? please help.

i have a 1.1v and i am having issues with faint wavy lines on the screen that i am trying to make perfect so it will be my main xbox.. also have some 1.0v's that are doing it but to a lesser degree. i really don't want to do a full board recap, especially don't want to have to replace those smds, so i want to find which specific caps that filter the video signal. i have already replaced several caps and messed up one of them that caused a dead short(has been repaired). so i really don't want to just do all the caps. plus, those 1.1v boards have a lot of them. i'd really like to just focus on the problem caps. and yes, i have given a visual inspection and replace the 5 in front of the processors with poly caps.

this is a 1.1v board. i replaced some caps on the mobo and the psu and it was working pretty well but, still showing some intereference in the video signal. so, i replaced some more caps on the mobo and psu to try and clean things up a little more. now, when i hit the power button, it power cycles twice and then frags on the 3rd cycle. i'm really not sure what i did wrong. i do not see any shorts ot burned traces. could some of u look at these pics and help me please? i wanted the pics to be very high definition so that u could really zoom in and look at them but that made the file sizes too big for here so, i uploaded them to imgur. here is the link https://imgur.com/a/f7zlPLT. those silver caps are all nichicon 1500uf 16v(or maybe 25v) poly caps. i have also tried the psu on another xbox and it seems to work fine. so it appears that i did screw something on the mobo up.

i have replaced caps on probably 8 xboxs. i have video issues with many of them and i'm wondering if replacing all of the caps is really needed? i usually replace the ones in front of the cpu/gpu and any others that look damaged. i ordered a 1.1v xbox that i am planning to mod and hopefully use it as my main xbox. i want it to look and sound the best possible.

So I thought I was done with the 1.6 I recently fixed but it seems like there is only working audio after I reconnect the AV cable. I have tried component, composite and HDMI converter cable. All cables work with other consoles. So after a cold boot it has no audio, I reconnected the AV cable and the audio is working again... What could be causing this?

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the 1.0v is generally thought to have the best video output. i've never heard a definite reason why the 1.4v usually has video issues(often in the form of wavy lines). i have read were some speculate that this is because microsoft lowered the power of the video signal on the 1.4. so, since the 1.0 has 5 caps in front of the cpu/gpu instead of 3, i wonder if adding the extra 2 caps to the 1.4v might give it a little extra power and help the video signal any? has anyone ever tried it? is there any danger to the xbox if the extra 2 caps are added?

i got one of those xedusa hdmi adapters for my xboxs today. the picture is the best i have ever seen on my 1.6 but, the wavy lines are horrible on my 1.4. i'm strongly considering removing the hard mod and hdd from my 1.4 and modding another xbox. the 1.6 has the issues with displaying some games in 480p and the 1.4 has the wavy line issue that no one seems to really be able to figure out and fix. so, between the 1.0-1.3, which is the best xbox to mod? i'm looking for the most relaible and the best video/audio quality.

Hey guys I just wanted your opinions on the mClassic graphics upscaler and if its better than the retroTINK 4K. I've been using the mClassic for a while now and I've been blown away at how much of a difference it makes at fixing jaggies and just making the overall image look almost a generation ahead of its time at least resolution wise. I've heard about the retroTINK but the price is more than an mClassic and I heard It takes some tinkering to get the settings right while the mClassic is plug and play. I want to know if its worth it making the jump to a retroTink rather than an mClassic. I'm also pairing it with a Chimeric HDMI adapter for maximum resolution and clarity, let me know your experience with both.

i've tried the brook wingman 2 and the Plug and Play OGX-Mini (OGX360). both have their issues with precision. i tried the game "black" today on my xbox series x and og xbox. i used the same xbox series controller and kept swapping between the systems while using the ogx-mini to connect to the og xbox. when connected to the ogx mini, the controller had a larger deadzone which makes it difficult to play shooters with. it's fine for a game like marvel ultimate alliance but not a shooter. has anyone found a truly good solution yet?

i.4v hard modded xbox. i have an hdmi adapter for it. i'm having problems with seeing wavey lines go accross the screen during darker scenes. i've seen this issue before with other xboxs and various video connectors. is there a specific cap on the board that is known to cause this issue? i replaced several of them but not all of them when i modded the system.

As many others have I am looking to build a replica of the Alpha 2 but wanted to also replicate the front of the case. Has anyone else done this before?

hey folks! it's been a long time. anyway, i haven't touched any of my og xboxs in over a year. i decided to get a hard modded one out lastnight to test some things and i went ahead and updated xbmc4gamers and everything. i also installed the newest artwork pack from the downloads section, went to where it downloaded at and ran the .xbe, but no artwork is showing. what am i missing here? seems like there was something i had to do last time to activate it after installation but, i don't remember what that was.

OK... Just starting a separate thread for my next project. I mentioned it in a different thread... but figured better to keep info in one place dedicated for this project. It's a remake of my ArdPromSD project. With the ArdProm... it was limited by program space. I am remaking it with a different MCU to allow more program/variable space. This gives me more room to add to the previous project. One benefit of the remake is only applicable to rev1.6 MBs... will only power on when xbox is powered on instead of being on immediately when plugging in the board. What I have so far (basically all of the ArdPromSD features): Read EEPROM and save to SD card (each read saves a different file name) Read BIN file from SD and write it to EEPROM Things left to do: Feedback (in form of LEDs like before) Reset button EEPROM data decrypting (hoping... will save encrypted data in plain text. This will also allow me to save the eeprom.bin as <serial number>.bin so if you can backup a few xbox's and know which eeprom backup is to which xbox) Really hoping the last one will pan out... I will try my hardest. I plan on shrink the board a bit as well. The downfall... some of the parts will be a handful to hand solder... so DIY'ers may have some trouble. I do plan to open source it eventually I'll post updates here when I have them. Now that I have it working as stated above... I'll get to designing the PCB and ordering everything to try out. I'm hoping to have prototype Hardware up and running within 2 months (china timeframe dependent).

As title, fully finished and working R3DUX Xecuter 3 cloned chip, complete, immaculate and fully functionally tested. This is my first finished R3dux. I may have a few others in due course. Please note; Only the chip and the two bare accessory boards are included currently at this price. I have simply not had time to do, nor inclination, any of the connector wires etc. That stuff drives me barmy. The two bare boards are included for you to complete. Nothing difficult by any means. The wire schematics for the cables etc are on the R3DUX github. Or you can simply use X3 cables if you have some, or message Steve, he loves making 'em (sorry Steve) You'll need the red pcb finishing first. Again Steve has them and he has the Pro Switches and LCD cables and also the large front panels too. So this sale includes only; 1) The R3DUX chip itself + Pinheader (I have some). 2) The 2 extra PCB boards as pictured. What you see is what you will get. The chip is flashed with V3294 X3. Backup has r3dux 3.1 flashbios and takes a few tries of power+eject together to catch it. I usually get in two or three tries, but will always work. This has also been fully tested and flashes the main rom no problem. Xblast also recognises the chip as X3 and also flashes it. Paypal F&F (leave note blank) or Paypal G&S (fees to you) at this price. This includes tracked UK postage. £47 inclusive. GBP This is an 'old-skool' chip. You should make yourself aware of usage and read up, it can be complicated for beginners, as the Xecuter 3 always was. Config Live is genius as we know, but it is overall not some user-friendly operating system style chip.

>Easy XDK Installer V1.4.2< ------------------------------------------------------------- This is an easy way to turn your retail console into a debug kit. There are two main options: 1. Install the XDK dashboard as an "app", meaning that you will have the option to load the dash as an app which will be marked "XDK Launcher" in your apps list. This will boot the dash by booting a Debug version of Cerbios through PBL, which forces the load of the XDK dashboard. This is the safest option, as you have an option in the installer to simply remove this. It is what's recommended for new users who don't know if they even want to run the XDK or are unsure if they want to commit the console they have to it entirely. I foresee a LOT of people using this option. 2 "Standalone mode" turns the console into a full-on, dedicated debug kit. This will wipe your C and E partitions and will end up dedicating the console to this purpose, just like a legitimate MS "Debug Kit". Underneath the XDK Launcher, there is a basic dashboard installed with useful applications and all kinds of goodies which can be accessed through the "Retail" selection (Utilizing Pheonix Bios Loader) in the XDK Launcher. The XDK Launcher will be the default dashboard that you boot up to. The installer also provides the means to flash a debug enabled Cerbios bios through this option at the end of the install. Speaking of that: Please use common sense when deciding whether to flash the debug bios at the end of the standalone install. If you decide not to flash, you will have a Cerbios Debug ini installed that still directs the bios to boot the XDK Launcher and boot into a debug environment. However, if you do not flash, the Cerbios bios you are using must obviously be hardcoded to read the ini/config file. You will probably know if you have intentionally flashed a bios that specifically ignores the ini, since this is a pretty obscure and rare thing to do, and if you don't know why you did it or that you've done it at all... then damn. If you are unsure what your Cerbios is hardcoded to do, just flash the bios at the end of the standalone install. It will be hardcoded debug, and you will not have any doubts as to what you have flashed. This choice was provided for the same reason that the "Application" and "Standalone" modes were created: Flexibility. If you don't want a hardcoded debug bios for any reason, you will be allowed to keep retail. You have been advised. The installer menu items are pretty straightforward. Application mode and Standalone mode both are able to install with either the 4627 or 5849 XDK Launcher. Once you make a selection, simply "Install XDK & Setup XDK-Launcher". The rest takes care of itself. Its as easy as pie. I recommend the newest Launcher as this has the most compatibility with the Win XP SDK/XDK toolkit. This should cover most case uses. However I will add features and modify the installer over time as I receive feedback. I am researching softmods, although installing on a softmod is not an ideal situation, for a few reasons. One of them being memory. The only real requirements for this install is 128MB of RAM. This will allow you to have the overhead necessary to run the debug environment and still be able to use the full stock 64MB of RAM that most consoles do. This can even be installed on a console with a stock 8GB HDD. MS Debug Kits were equipped with this. If you don't have 128MB of RAM... The XDK launcher will boot, but your experience will be unstable to varying degrees and I do NOT recommend it. If you would like to use a SuperIO serial debugger, I would recommend performing a TSOP flash and keeping the pin header free for the ribbon cable. LPC breakout boards DO exist however, and this may be an option for you to consider so that you can have a modchip AND have a pin header for the SuperIO. I describe how I built my development kit with SuperIO in the thread I linked below. I absolutely encourage you to build one as it is a satisfying project and super cool to say that you did! Also included is every single piece of software imaginable on the PC side. Everything from Windows XP itself, to Visual Studio 2003, to the MS VS2003 XDK Installer, and of course, the Virtual Machine HDD image is linked below. The XDK version numbers are a lie. 5849.16 is the latest version of the XDK. Please remember: The HDD image is in VMDK file format and can be used with either VMware or VirtualBox. If you use VMware, download the VMware Tools ISO. It is version 10.0.0 and is compatible with XP. If you use VirtualBox, use the VirtualBox Additions ISO. These will install the respective drivers for your virtual machine and make the experience much more pleasurable and easy. Generic drivers suck! I recommend VirtualBox as they have a link provided for their software. VMWare isn't exactly free (although a free version can be found if you look hard enough) and they make tracking it down a pain. If somebody would like to locate it for me, please do. Please do not use vx.dxt (VerifierX) in your "DXT" folder. It serves no purpose and causes some things to not load and to crash, namely anything Cromwell based like PBL or XBlast. A LOT of this installer was coded by DarkDestiny. Although the collab is no longer a thing, it would feel wrong to not assign credit for this, as it would make it seem like I want people to believe that I was the sole coder of everything that was written. That is not the case and I do not want this to be misrepresented. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Installer Link: Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aW9MXogE_qxcWFLoXXOdrGsN3Wi79Kdn/view?usp=sharing Virtual Machine XDK HDD Image Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Du_3Fk0s2gIYu9DBbMXabJiMSRf8KSK5/view?usp=drive_link VMWare Tools ISO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sQuSOaTLFBy7aqtyQavARY-Az9Y15RSl/view?usp=sharing VirtualBox Additions ISO: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xXHHs7lNT9WeB_wWceMRpxi6a2CDtYu5/view?usp=drive_link -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.4.2 -Changed and added to all the readmes and further clarified what everything is and what to be cautious of when using it. -Cleaned up menu text and made things a little tiny bit neater. That's pretty much it. 1.4.1 -Changed XML commentary, installer messaging and structure, as well as finishing readme's for each section and adding further explanation of operations so that people can have a better understanding of what is being done and how. -Added ability to say no to flashing Cerbios at the end of the Standalone installs. It is a hardcoded debug bios that is flashed. However, there is a debug ini that is installed anyway, so if you don't want to flash a hardcoded debug Cerbios for any reason, you will be given the choice not to flash and the debug ini will still enable you to boot into the XDK launcher. -Fixed a bug that copied the incorrect bios to HDD when selecting option to flash back to retail bios under "Back to Retail" section.