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Hi Everyone, I've got a 1.0 with a Hynix with DVD drive that won't eject that came previously TSOP'd. It had an older version of EVOX flashed and then the two TSOP junctions were removed. It unfortunately didn't have the LBA48 configured so thus I wanted to reflash. When I used the BIOS checker I would get Unknown. When I tried to use Flash tools (blastos and evox) I wouldn't get anywhere with flashing as it was unwritable (makes sense) Today I reapplied the TSOP junctions and when I ran the BIOS Checker I was getting something back - identfying the correct chip and flash. I grabbed the 1mb size version of ind-bios, added a fresh config file to my c drive, started up blastos, and flashed it which seemed to be successful... until the restart. Now the xbox will start, power off, start, power off and then start again with a red/green alternating LED. Have I ruined my TSOP? Should I have done the 256K? I've got a couple Alladiin's on the way, is this recoverable? I'd appreciate your thoughts and guidance.

Hello. I wanted to upgrade RAM on my Xbox. First I TSOPed Cromwell inside and it booted. Then I soldered 4 RAM chips from China and Xbox started reboots and showed errors: Green, Green, Green50%-Red50%. After which I desoldered new RAM, but FRAG was still there. I guessed something was wrong with TSOP chip. When I got this Xbox it had some noname modchip from 2003 which I can't even guess clone what of. Anyway, error code switched to: Green, Green, Orange50%-Red50%. Which is RAM error, I guess. Now I think I should have tested it with each new RAM chip soldered. I only left original 4 RAM chips inside right now, but it still FRAGs. What can I do to repair it?

Hi, I’m currently trying to figure out why tony hawk pro skater 3 keeps saying failed to save to hard disk. I’m wondering if anyone else has come across this issue before? My Xbox is hard modded and has been upgraded with a 2TB wd blu hard drive if that helps thanks in advance

Console won't turn on, only blink green few times. CD drive won't open, nothing. tried to flash x3 1MB bios to 1.0 motherboard. I had previously flashed 256kB, 512kB. Any directions?

Came across this on another Xbox forum: guy tried to softmod with Rocky5's XBSMT using AUF. Installer worked to a point but at the stage where you're meant to reboot, eject the game disc and the softmod install completes he forgot to eject the AUF disc, it booted and the softmod did not complete. Result blank screen and from the sound of it the Xbox is still effectively in retail state but now without the retail MS dashboard. It cold boots original game discs including AUF but running the exploit again just reboots the console and the game reloads. It apparently won't cold boot burned discs, getting that confirmed just to be sure, but it means he can't use Rocky5's Xtras disc or any other recovery disc. The poster also said he tried to run a dash-updater afterwards to restore the original MS dash but 'it did not work'. I'm skeptical about that and am concerned it might have added another level of complexity to the problem. Likely no eeprom backup available but, again, that has to be confirmed. What to do? My thought in the absence of other better advice is to delete the AUF game saves and try with SC or MechAssault or TH4 but I know from my own experience that re-softmodding like that does not always work, the games have a tendency to reboot rather that launch the installer.

Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that. So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one? The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 3 cables 3.3v = 1 cable STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 4 POWOK = 1 POWON = 1 The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 4 cables 3.3v = 2 cables STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 5 cables POWOK = 1 cable POWON = 1 cable Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables? My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.