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Hey all, as the title implies I'm wondering if anyone has any extra PCBs for an ATX to Xbox 1.0 adapter, as posted by N64 Freak and available here: http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/details/7953/6277/xboxatx-zip The price for a batch of ~10 is a bit more than what I'm hoping to spend so curious if anyone's already purchased a batch inside the continental US and would be willing to ship one for a bit of a discount compared to buying from DirtyPCBs? Thanks for any info!

It's just not flashing and refusing to do so. It's acting like the point isn't jumpered. I soldered the jumper using a wire to bridge it. No idea why this isn't working.

I'm bringing up my console collection to the modern ages... Or at least trying to keep them from wasting away in a pile of leaky capacitor fluid. I have a 1.4 OG that was modded with a Xenium Blue chip. Original HD, DVD, etc. Just modded to turn it into a media box back in the day. Prior to the restoration, I would get an initial green light, then flashing red light constantly. I've recapped the entire system, reflowed the LPC to the Xenium, and verified continuity. There was slight corrosion under the clock cap and a few of the CPU caps had bulged. Post-rehab, I can boot initially to the XeniumOS 1.0 menu. I have two old BIOS images available along with "Original BIOS", however when any of the options are selected the eject button LED goes from solid green immediately to a flashing red light. Two spin-ups of what I believe is the DVD drive, no video, no audio. Flashing red continues until a single press of the power button shuts down the system. Eject button works during this time. Component A/V cables will not work display the XeniumOS menu, but RCA cables will. I've seen another post on reddit discuss an EEPROM failure as the potential cause, and I'm starting to think that's most likely it. In the EEPROM tools section, the Game Region is "INVALID!" and cannot be flashed to another region. Before I go down the rabbit hole of procuring another EEROM, flashing, and reinstallation I wanted to see if anyone here had any other thoughts on the issue. I appreciate any insight you folks may have. Thanks!

Good evening, I'm trying to fix an xbox that I've bought online that states the "Your Xbox requires service" with no error code everytime I try to play a game. Weirdly there is one game that I'm able to play. A crappy demo CD with a few games, and I can only play the FIFA 2005! The xbox was unopened when I bought it and I already managed to debrief a few things, the DVD player is fine, the IDE cables that connect the DVD to the motherboard also seem fine (tested the dvd power connector for continuity on each pin). Since I'm able to use the main dashboard I can also access the hard drive, it lets me erase save's , so it seems that the xbox is able to read and write on the HDD. At this moment I'm not sure what to explore further , nothing too weird on the motherboard too, all caps seem fine. PSU doesn't seem to have any trouble too.. Any ideas? I'm lingering towards something in between the PATA and the MCPX.. but it seems like a longshot. Thanks in advance!

Into quite a bit of a mystery here. Sold a fellow a modded Xbox and he traded in an old busted Xbox to save a few bucks so now I'm trying to fix it. When turned on the Xbox turns off pretty quickly but then restarts immediately, then the same again, turns off and then back on a third time and then stays on and shows flashing orange and red lights (the odd time it will flash red and green just to deepen the mystery). Googling the problem results in many ppl saying it's an 'av pack' issue if the av cable is not the problem but the restarting thing tells me it's more likely a PSU issue or a bios/mod-gone-wrong problem. Pulled everything apart completely, thought I found the problem with a burnt contact point near the plugin. Re-flowed all 4 points just to be sure and no difference at all. Kept googling and found a few encouraging leads including this url https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutorials-163.html#xboxerrorcodes1 and tried jumping that wire from the lpc pin 5. No f*ckin' joy. Also just a side note - the lpc vias are all plugged with solder (see pic) indicating that a modchip was removed at some point. Also I checked the solder points for the Xbox 1.0 TSOP and it looks like they've been done also - but the guy said he never modded that one. Thing is, the further into this I get the more convinced I am that this unit is fixable. Most people will just say eff it and chuck it or whatever but I really like to save old things if at all possible. I have included a pic of the wire I jumped (yellow wire) from the lpc pin 5 as the url tutorial suggested. The same pic also shows a mysterious blue wire that was here before I opened it. Asked the dude about the blue wire and he said no idea, never modded that one. In some of my Googling I found a post saying something about a D0 wire or DO wire described as a 'modchip enable wire', maybe this could be it? Any ideas about how to move forward or what the blue wire is for would be great, my thanks go out to anyone who has any ideas that might help,

Hi everyone, I picked up a never-opened "for repair" 1.0 Xbox...the previous owner mentioned it would boot, but had audio issues. I've seen many issues that turned out to very minor fixes, so I said what the heck I'll give it a shot. He was right. It boots fine, but the audio has severe crackling whenever a sound should be playing. Boot sequence, main menu, games, all have crackling noise over the audio. I've tried the obvious things like changing the IDE cable, cleaning all contact points in the AV port, opening it and giving it a thorough cleaning, plus removing the clock cap. There was some clock cap leakage, but nothing too severe. I checked the traces and everything seems in order. I even tried cleaning the spots under the screws to make sure there was proper grounding. Is it possible there's clock cap acid damage to the audio hardware? Does the MCPX chip control the audio? I'm trying to determine whether this board can be salvaged, or whether I should just stop trying and just replace it. Thanks all in advance!

Hi, I have an Xbox which I believe is 1.0 (fan on the GPU). It's one I've had for a while and used to be working, I had it softmodded and at some point it stopped working so I just put it in a cupboard and used a different one. Recently I thought I'd try to fix it. When I opened it the clock cap had of course leaked, but the corrosion didn't seem too serious. I removed it and cleaned up with no change. The symptoms are as follows: On power on, green light, it shuts off almost immediately, tries again, turns off again, on third boot it stays on and the light flashes green/red rapidly Optical drive won't open No video output No change when IDE devices disconnected I have tried a PSU from a known working system with no change, and cleaned the board thoroughly with IPA. Does anyone have any other suggestions that might help me out with this? Thanks!

The 2TB disk works fine, including all games, on my v1.0 console. I installed it in a v1.6 console with an Aladdin chip/Evox F&G bios but it does not load all the games. The files are there, confirmed via File Explorer and FlashFXP, but the games will not start. It loads some games but not all. It will go back to the startup menu. Very strange. Any recommendations?

Hello everyone. I need information about the capacitor on the motherboard located near the ram slot. During soldering, it flew somewhere and I can't locate it. Does anyone of you have a boardview or any schematic that will help me identify this capacitor and its parameters?

I have a 1.0 Xbox. It’s really close to the 1.1 change over but pretty sure it’s a 1.0. It was starting up fans and drives originally but still FRAGing. I tuned up the disc drive and I can tell the HDD sounds like it’s not running well, but still no boot at all. I could at least tell that the clock Cap had leaked so I decided to pull that. I got it out nice and clean and cleaned up the area around it but it didn’t look bad. No corrosion on front or back really. I reassembled for testing and now I’m getting the same FRAG but with no boot sounds. No disk spinning, no fans, nothing except the FRAG light. All I did was take out the clock Cap. Thinking about doing a full Cap replace on the board and PSU. Any other advice or things to test first?

When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?

still having this issue i get freezing/buzzing at the flubber logo with my hdd installed with everything correctly in place using the FatXplorer 3.0 beta to build/preload the drive and I have EVo bios installed too so hdd locking shouldn't be an issue i get a 07 (hdd time out) with no hdd installed (pretty obvious)

Long time reader first time poster! Sorry to start in this way but I'm completely lost and if possible I need your help all... First disclaimer, before the attempt on both console to install the modchip everything works fine (stock console no softmod or other modchip). As per the title I've installed the same Aladin XT Plus 2 (pick-up from AliX) but at the end (after the first boot) both console start to have the same issue as per below : Tries to Boot 3x then FRAG (Christmas Lights) Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip or the IDE cable being plugged in upside down somewhere. Check modchip wiring and IDE cables. If you did not do any soldering, it could be a bad PSU. - On both console I've already removed all the wires for the Aladin (beside the connector on the MB) - Cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol - Replaced the power supply - Recaps (Done only on the 1.0) - Searched on the motherboard for broken component or any other strange visual sign of issue Is clear that the Aladin I've is faulty but what I can try now to revive those two console? Thanks!

Hey all, I recently ordered a 1.0 motherboard and hdd off of ebay and went to mod it. Before modding, I booted them up and found them to be working properly. The clock cap was leaking bad so I replaced that. I soldered up the pin header to the LPC, connected a wire to the D0 pad and routed that to the Open Xenium I have, and went to boot it up. I'm greeted with a solid red LED on the modchip, and the xbox booting up into the normal bios. Attempting to boot into XeniumOS by pressing the eject button yields the same results. This modchip did originally come out of a 1.6, flashed with Evox M8+ 1.6. Just to rule out the modchip going bad on me, I wired it back up into the 1.6 and it booted perfectly. I threw an Aladdin chip, that's also flashed with Evox M8+ 1.6, into the 1.0 also, and it will not boot into custom bios either. I've reflowed my joints multiple times, and my D0 solder job is good (I believe lol), so I'm really not sure what's going on. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. LPC solder joints have been reflowed like 4 times so they look bad lol, forgive me.

Hi, I brought my og xbox back to live and it is still working. But I now want to upgrade it with a 2 TB disk. I read a lot here in the forum and tried to find the components and bios I need for upgrade. So far my upgrade components are as follows: WD RE4 2 TB SATA (WD2003FYYS) Unpartitioned; Deleted partitions with easeUs never installed in a xbox Delock 62510 SATA 2 IDE Adapter (Successor of Delock 61702); According to data sheet: contains Marvell 88SA8052 Asus 80wire 40pin IDE / PATA Cable OGXBox 2021 (v1.5.4) Installer Disk Thank you very much Actual setup: Xbox Rev. 1.0 WD 200 GB IDE (unlocked) Aladdin Advanced with Xecuter2 4983.06 BIOS (256kb) EvolutionX Dashboard (1.8.3752) First I thought, I will go with a LBA48 modified/fixed EvoX M8+ CEE BIOS. After some reading of topics/posts on this forum, I stumbled up on the Original Aladdin Advanced Mod Chip comment from SS_Dave, where he recommend "IND 5004.67" for the Aladdin Advanced. Furthermore on youtube I saw the new CerBios 2.0.3R and found it here on the forum. This is is also a 256kb BIOS and as I get it right a brand new one. I think I will go with XBMC4Gamers, but not sure. Now I am not sure which BIOS I should use/flash to the Aladdin Advanced. Do you may have recommondations for me, which BIOS I should use? In addtion: Is the following plan I build in my head "correct" Open box and disassemble Clean MB and DVD-Rom Remove clock capacitor Clean GPU and CPU from old paste Add new thermal paste on GPU and CPU Install new 2TB WD, Adapter and new 80wire IDE cable Reassemble / close box Depending on BIOS M8+ (EvoX.m8.cee.67.noDVD.evoxdash.256.bin) / IND 5004.67 (iND-BiOS.5004.67.bin) Cold boot to OGXBox 2021 Installer Disk Run 2.2.1.1. Flash EvoX 256KB Bios (1.0 – 1.4) OR Run 2.2.3.2. Flash iND Bios (1.0 - 1.4). Do I have to worry about the "Err16 fix" because I removed the Clock capacitor and want to install on a "brand new"/unpartitioned HDD? Run 3.1.2. AiO Setup a new large HDD Run 4.3.6. Install XBMC4Gamers 8.2. Reboot the System (Without DVD). CerBios 2.0.3R Completly follow 16TB in an OG Xbox? CERBIOS has arrived (Borderline OCD) Is the step "BIOS Selection" with FATXplorer possible if the HDD is only/lower 2 TB (as the description for "Cerbios, Titan" says -> Only available for disks larger than 2 TB.? Having fun with 2 TB of Space Thank you very much in advance for your reply and help. Best regards bachmma1

I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

@miggawhatStarted a thread back in 2019, with issues about ethernet port not working right. I have an ethernet problem as well, but different. This is new to me, never had any network problems of this type before. I bought an ebay "as-is" untested box, luckily it booted up, cd worked, and after 20 years of life, the clock capacitor was in "like new" shape (no leakage or anything, but of course, I still removed it). It had never been opened before, and oddly there was a HDD screw floating around the HDD tray that had come loose, just as an anecdote. Anyway, I took the G & CPUs's heat-sinks out to re-thermal compound them. I plan on making this my first TSOP, getting my feet wetter, so to speak. After softmodding in my normal fashion, I attempted to FTP over the C, eeprom, and MS backups to my master backup storage drive. Unfortunately, I wasn't getting an IP showing up in the dash, even and after confirming I had all the network settings correct: FTP enabled Set to static 192.168.0.2 port 21 4 users allowed User and pw both : xbox Known good x over cable, and double checked on another box (as I describe below) I was able to copy the C and eeprom's to USB/mem card and transfer to a working 1.6 softmod. I then FTP'd, from the working 1.6, the contents of the memory card. So I can technically upgrade the HDD externally, and add the games and emulators I want. However, I'm more into system link stuff, and a non functioning ethernet port/network stuff isn't desirable. On the rear of the box, I get NO lights whatsoever. I gave it a little wiggle and jiggle, but nothing would light up and no IP address would show up on the dash. I checked and cleaned the port with swabs/qtips and iso, the swabs came out basically clean. All the pins/tabs looked to have good contact surfaces, none bent or missing, etc. I'm considering getting a solder pump finally, and trying to swap out the physical port for another one, but swapping ports depends on what advice you fine folks might provide, which I thank you for greatly!! Anyone else have an issue like this? V1.0, Unleash X (Ebay #3)

$475 + shipping. 92688 for local pickup. Willing to trade for 3060ti, NVME drives, 3600 mhz ram. 5600x CPU 250GB HDD + Component cables included + an Xecuter 2.6 (just the bare modchip. no dipswitches etc). I dont know if the chip works, as I do not have the dips witches to test. Lower metal shield is rusty. DVD and HDD tray screws are missing. Controller ports are each missing 1 screw. Rubber feet are missing. Bottom of case has scratches.

Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it.

Hola, es posible poner una F.A de la v1.6 en la v1.0. Un saludo

Greetings to all, I have an xbox classic 1.0 that they gave me. As soon as I tried to turn it on the initial boot appeared, but then I heard a noise like something sizzling coming from the power supply. I open the xbox and I noticed some screws springs on the power supply which probably caused a short circuit. Now the console does not turn on anymore. If I try to turn it on, the fan turns half a turn and turns off. In stand by I have 3.25 volts on the purple cable while the transformer on the secondary between the red and black cable gives me 0 volts. What could I check. Thank you

Hello all. First post here as I just got into modding xbox's. Picked up two og xbox's, one is a 1.6 and the other a 1.0. I did a full recap on the 1.6 board and power supply and replaced the dvd drive belt. Also installed a 500gb hard drive, installed a new dashboard and lastly installed MakeMHZ's HDMI board with OpenXenium mod chip. And to my surprise every worked perfect with little to no issues. However, this 1.0 has some problems. System wouldn't boot at all at, also tried booting from a dvd using hexen with no luck. So I installed a OpenXenium mod chip and it booted right up to the Xenium OS. So I figured I was good to go, I installed a the IND 5003.67 BIOS since it would be compatible with the 128mb ram upgrade for the console. So this is where I may have messed up, I just installed all 4 ram chips at the same time instead of testing after each one. Now systems turns on and off.. on and off again then on and stays on with a green ring but no picture. However if I press the eject once it stays on it launches into either Xenium OS or the IND BIOS.. Not sure how that makes sense, seems to be random. I would think if the ram was installed wrong or shorted I wouldn't even get this far?? I was even able to ftp over Capcom vs SNK 2 and it played fine.. I'm thinking maybe something's up with the stock BIOS? I bridged the pins on the board to do a tsop thinking that might solve my problem but I don't think I have anyway to flash to the stock chip since I can only boot from a modchip.. Sorry for the long read, I'm just lost at this point. Hoping someone has some suggestions or can make sense of any of this. Also I attached a link for pics of my ram install, maybe I'm missing something? Thanks guys Justin https://imgur.com/a/Q2F8Cqh

Hi Everyone! I'm in the market for a 1.0 motherboard that has had the extra ram up to 128mb chips added, has had all the caps replaced, the clock cap removed, the TSOP write points restored, and CPU thermal paste replaced. Essentially a nicely restored 128mb 1.0 motherboard that won't give me any trouble for! Optionally it would be nice to have the LPC pin headers installed in the case recovery is needed. I know there is a lot of time in that request between the caps and the ram, so please name your price. I'm in the US.

As in the title, my xbox is TSOP'ed and splited with a switch for dualboot.

Aplogies for the noobness here My xbox will not load unleashx on the new hd often. it either takes along time to load or fails. it does not load evox in corner also. Xbox ntsc-j 1.0 2 tb WD Green aladian xt2 hard mod instal issues. - doesn not load evox in conrer anymore after bios flash - boot looping, freezing, not loading into unleash, going into red green flash after 3 boot attempts. -if loads, often after a reboot will decide to 'take a break' boot loop into flashing lights, black screen. -no EVOX logo with or without hd anymore ( this makes me think its a bios issue) -loading hexen to install xmbc or try reflash bios is always unsuccessful. -can load ogxbox just unsure what to instal. Previous notes , install and before issues: -Removed capacitor, installed chip, directed d0 to wrong point (plese see pic) still successfully launched EVOX. -would not load hexen or new hd. redirected the d0 to proper point then had boot problems. starting logo would freeze. -Reflowed aladdin pin headers. -changed wiring back (picture - d0 point to ledhd - i did not clearly understand pdf install guide) hexen loaded. -freezed once. flashed bios 480p an d couldnt get logo screen. reverted back. could load new hdd. -installed ntsc package and got error on 'nodvd' (forgot this part kind of), still loaded into partioner. -partioned hd using 947-1 method (2tbhd) rebooted but froze. -reloaded hexen, reinstalled ntsc p[ackage succefully with no errors. -reformated drives again with 946 +1 method. -rebooted and got power boot loops and no evox logo. -also got the issue LBA48 bios issues when checking reformat drives. however drives are formatted. Thought it maybe hd issues or power issue or ide/sata issues but havetested with nad without hd and get same result. unless i leave the xbox to rest it wont reboot. I can get into a succeful unleshx dash with hd partioned. it just doesnt run smooth or seem right. Plesea see pics. Ive burnt ogxbox disc to try and instal bios but unsure which one honestly. but this randomly loads . I have a feeling ive done something to the modchip. iread that the bios on hexen for the chip was junk but have no idea how to instal a new bios now. I hope someone can help https://imgur.com/JB1rbXv https://imgur.com/eTbE2sJ https://imgur.com/P4YXvm5 https://imgur.com/piCzr6M