Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '1.0'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Rules
    • Why Can't I Download?
  • Subscribed Members Only
    • Subscribed Members Only
  • Off Topic
    • New Member Introductions
    • Rumble Pit
    • Suggestion Box.
  • General Xbox Discussion
    • General Xbox Discussion
  • Original Xbox Modding Forum
    • Hardware Mods
    • Modchips
    • TSOP Flashing
    • Softmods
    • Repair
  • Xbox Case Modding
    • Case Mods
    • Lighting & Electrical Mods
  • Tutorials
    • Official Tutorials
    • Tutorial Submission
  • Software
    • Bios
    • Dashboards
    • Installation Disks
    • Applications
    • Games
    • Emulators
    • Homebrew
  • Xbox Collecting
    • Xbox Collection Showcase
  • Rare and Uncommon
    • Rare and Uncommon Xbox Hardware
    • Rare and Uncommon Xbox Software
  • Vendors
    • N64 Freak's Products
    • Barnito's Products
  • Development
    • Rocky5's Projects
  • Online Play
    • Game Night
  • Classifieds
    • Wanted
    • For Sale
  • Moderator Section
    • Moderator Back Room

Product Groups

  • Vendor Forum
  • Membership Subscriptions
  • Forum Ads

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me

  1. Been a bit bored as of late and wanted to see how low temps I could get. Microsoft in their infinite wisdom gave the CPU farrrr too much voltage: 1.7V! Nuts! Well the CPU itself runs perfectly fine at 1.3V (lowest the voltage reg will go without messing with the feedback loop). 1.0: Remove the 0ohm resistor on R2E4 1.6: Remove the 2 0ohm resistors on R2E7 & R2E3 The only drawback of doing this, is you'll no longer be able to push the CPU frequency over ~950MHz. The temperature screenshot is from my 1.6, I'm aware that the 1.6 does not have entirely accurate monitoring, but you can see a clear difference. Both were taken at a ~73F ambient with fan running at 20%. Enjoy.
  2. I recently acquired this Xbox with a 1.0 board and wanted to try and repair it. After opening it up and cleaning it, I noticed the clock cap hanging on by a thread so I plucked that off. I haven't done anything else to the console and the previous owner doesn't know if it was soft or hard modded. I still get the same error from when I first got it which is described in the title. Below I will attach some photos to show off the condition of the motherboard. Thanks in advance for the help!
  3. I am having some issues with a system I am working on hardmodding, and I'd like to save the system if possible. The issue: I have a 1.0 OG Xbox console where the controllers do not work History of this project: This console started off as a non-working console on Ebay that had never been opened. It had hard drive issues so would give an error code 8 on boot. I was able to install an aladdin mod chip, and throw in a new formatted drive an boot into xblast and gentoox to try to flash cerbios. Xblast did not recognize the mod chip, so I tried gentoox also. My controllers do not work in either dashboard. I have an original controller from ebay that was advertised as working, as well as a cheap 3rd party controller from amazon. I do not have another Xbox, so its possible neither controller works. What I have tried so far: All 4 controller ports (If that even works in those dashboards) re capping the motherboard replacing the daughter board (1.0) and controller ports checking traces for continuity near the clock capacitor (there was a bit of leakage but not really any damage), near the controller headers, and general spot checks My question is, what would you try next? I would really like to save this console, but I am running out of ideas on how to repair it. Any advice/insight/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
  4. i have a skeleton black that would not boot from the tsop (was never opened so just the tsop went bad). i stuck it in my t48 programmer and it gives me pin detect errors, so i took a tsop off of a parts 1.1 and sure enough it reads without issue, i was comparing the k4034 image on the chip to other 4034 images and it is slightly different, just want to know if it is infact the stock 4034 kernel on the chip or if it is some other bios on it. i've attached the dump from the donor chip [email protected]
  5. This is a 1.0 Xbox that was found with a dead 110v PSU, most likely plugged into 220v. I swapped the PSU with a good one. When I press the power button I get rapid flashing green light, no fans, no boot, no FRAG. It had a leaky clock cap with some messed up resistors near the cap which were replaced from a doner board after cleaning the area, no change. Traces look ok. I swapped the 5 1500uf caps with new ones, no change. Power at the first N FET input is 5v when the power on button is pressed and around 1.8v on the output. I swapped the fet from a doner board, no change. Voltage on the two resistors near the yellow power button cable show 3.5v and drop to around 2.5v when pressing the power button. Not sure where to go from here...
  6. Dear all, sorry to bother you with a maybe stupid question again, but i want to give a last try before i send the mainboard to hardware heaven. I have got a org. Xbox v1.0 times ago and I was able to set up the Box by TSOP the Box and also by installing bigger Harddisk and XBMC accordingly. All was working well for month and than the journey starts. First, the Box stops working after some time in the middle of processing. I copied some games from Samba Share to the Box. Copy process starts regularly and after 1,5h Box crashed by "no video signal" and without finishing the copy process. When the Box crashed, Box didn't reboot or didn't change the color of the LEDs. So okay ... things can happen ... So I try to switch on the Box again, disconnect from power and switch on the box again ... Green/Red error ... Shit ... Waiting for one hour, try again ... Box starts regularly. Start copy process again ... again after some time ... Box crashed. This time i was able to restart the Box directly after the crash and i check the temperature of CPU und GPU and both shows normal temperatures below 58°C. Okay, changed the power supply ... Same issues ... I changed Harddisk and DVD ROM, furthermore I was able to refresh the BIOS as well also tried another BIOS version. Furthermore, i installed a Modchip in the Box ... But no success. The 4 powerlines on the mainboard are checked as well, same for the rest of the mainboard ... all looks okay. During the next weeks the box crashes more often and much faster than before, so i decided to replace the power caps on the board ... Long story short ... no success same issue. By now the box didn't work properly ... Try to start 3 times ... than turns to Green/Red Error again. Also I replaced two other caps next to the GPU but no success ... So, now I'm lost ... Hope someone has an idea for other some other tries ;-) Thanks for all ideas and hints Kind regards
  7. 128MB, Cerbios, 2tb drive based on the origins image with a few extra things. I would like 300.
  8. i just finished installing Aladdin XT Plus 2 on 1.0 now what to do next ? ps : i tested it and its working with evo x logo on left side
  9. Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it.
  10. Hey all, as the title implies I'm wondering if anyone has any extra PCBs for an ATX to Xbox 1.0 adapter, as posted by N64 Freak and available here: http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/details/7953/6277/xboxatx-zip The price for a batch of ~10 is a bit more than what I'm hoping to spend so curious if anyone's already purchased a batch inside the continental US and would be willing to ship one for a bit of a discount compared to buying from DirtyPCBs? Thanks for any info!
  11. It's just not flashing and refusing to do so. It's acting like the point isn't jumpered. I soldered the jumper using a wire to bridge it. No idea why this isn't working.
  12. I'm bringing up my console collection to the modern ages... Or at least trying to keep them from wasting away in a pile of leaky capacitor fluid. I have a 1.4 OG that was modded with a Xenium Blue chip. Original HD, DVD, etc. Just modded to turn it into a media box back in the day. Prior to the restoration, I would get an initial green light, then flashing red light constantly. I've recapped the entire system, reflowed the LPC to the Xenium, and verified continuity. There was slight corrosion under the clock cap and a few of the CPU caps had bulged. Post-rehab, I can boot initially to the XeniumOS 1.0 menu. I have two old BIOS images available along with "Original BIOS", however when any of the options are selected the eject button LED goes from solid green immediately to a flashing red light. Two spin-ups of what I believe is the DVD drive, no video, no audio. Flashing red continues until a single press of the power button shuts down the system. Eject button works during this time. Component A/V cables will not work display the XeniumOS menu, but RCA cables will. I've seen another post on reddit discuss an EEPROM failure as the potential cause, and I'm starting to think that's most likely it. In the EEPROM tools section, the Game Region is "INVALID!" and cannot be flashed to another region. Before I go down the rabbit hole of procuring another EEROM, flashing, and reinstallation I wanted to see if anyone here had any other thoughts on the issue. I appreciate any insight you folks may have. Thanks!
  13. Good evening, I'm trying to fix an xbox that I've bought online that states the "Your Xbox requires service" with no error code everytime I try to play a game. Weirdly there is one game that I'm able to play. A crappy demo CD with a few games, and I can only play the FIFA 2005! The xbox was unopened when I bought it and I already managed to debrief a few things, the DVD player is fine, the IDE cables that connect the DVD to the motherboard also seem fine (tested the dvd power connector for continuity on each pin). Since I'm able to use the main dashboard I can also access the hard drive, it lets me erase save's , so it seems that the xbox is able to read and write on the HDD. At this moment I'm not sure what to explore further , nothing too weird on the motherboard too, all caps seem fine. PSU doesn't seem to have any trouble too.. Any ideas? I'm lingering towards something in between the PATA and the MCPX.. but it seems like a longshot. Thanks in advance!
  14. Into quite a bit of a mystery here. Sold a fellow a modded Xbox and he traded in an old busted Xbox to save a few bucks so now I'm trying to fix it. When turned on the Xbox turns off pretty quickly but then restarts immediately, then the same again, turns off and then back on a third time and then stays on and shows flashing orange and red lights (the odd time it will flash red and green just to deepen the mystery). Googling the problem results in many ppl saying it's an 'av pack' issue if the av cable is not the problem but the restarting thing tells me it's more likely a PSU issue or a bios/mod-gone-wrong problem. Pulled everything apart completely, thought I found the problem with a burnt contact point near the plugin. Re-flowed all 4 points just to be sure and no difference at all. Kept googling and found a few encouraging leads including this url https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutorials-163.html#xboxerrorcodes1 and tried jumping that wire from the lpc pin 5. No f*ckin' joy. Also just a side note - the lpc vias are all plugged with solder (see pic) indicating that a modchip was removed at some point. Also I checked the solder points for the Xbox 1.0 TSOP and it looks like they've been done also - but the guy said he never modded that one. Thing is, the further into this I get the more convinced I am that this unit is fixable. Most people will just say eff it and chuck it or whatever but I really like to save old things if at all possible. I have included a pic of the wire I jumped (yellow wire) from the lpc pin 5 as the url tutorial suggested. The same pic also shows a mysterious blue wire that was here before I opened it. Asked the dude about the blue wire and he said no idea, never modded that one. In some of my Googling I found a post saying something about a D0 wire or DO wire described as a 'modchip enable wire', maybe this could be it? Any ideas about how to move forward or what the blue wire is for would be great, my thanks go out to anyone who has any ideas that might help,
  15. Hi everyone, I picked up a never-opened "for repair" 1.0 Xbox...the previous owner mentioned it would boot, but had audio issues. I've seen many issues that turned out to very minor fixes, so I said what the heck I'll give it a shot. He was right. It boots fine, but the audio has severe crackling whenever a sound should be playing. Boot sequence, main menu, games, all have crackling noise over the audio. I've tried the obvious things like changing the IDE cable, cleaning all contact points in the AV port, opening it and giving it a thorough cleaning, plus removing the clock cap. There was some clock cap leakage, but nothing too severe. I checked the traces and everything seems in order. I even tried cleaning the spots under the screws to make sure there was proper grounding. Is it possible there's clock cap acid damage to the audio hardware? Does the MCPX chip control the audio? I'm trying to determine whether this board can be salvaged, or whether I should just stop trying and just replace it. Thanks all in advance!
  16. Hi, I have an Xbox which I believe is 1.0 (fan on the GPU). It's one I've had for a while and used to be working, I had it softmodded and at some point it stopped working so I just put it in a cupboard and used a different one. Recently I thought I'd try to fix it. When I opened it the clock cap had of course leaked, but the corrosion didn't seem too serious. I removed it and cleaned up with no change. The symptoms are as follows: On power on, green light, it shuts off almost immediately, tries again, turns off again, on third boot it stays on and the light flashes green/red rapidly Optical drive won't open No video output No change when IDE devices disconnected I have tried a PSU from a known working system with no change, and cleaned the board thoroughly with IPA. Does anyone have any other suggestions that might help me out with this? Thanks!
  17. The 2TB disk works fine, including all games, on my v1.0 console. I installed it in a v1.6 console with an Aladdin chip/Evox F&G bios but it does not load all the games. The files are there, confirmed via File Explorer and FlashFXP, but the games will not start. It loads some games but not all. It will go back to the startup menu. Very strange. Any recommendations?
  18. Hello everyone. I need information about the capacitor on the motherboard located near the ram slot. During soldering, it flew somewhere and I can't locate it. Does anyone of you have a boardview or any schematic that will help me identify this capacitor and its parameters?
  19. I have a 1.0 Xbox. It’s really close to the 1.1 change over but pretty sure it’s a 1.0. It was starting up fans and drives originally but still FRAGing. I tuned up the disc drive and I can tell the HDD sounds like it’s not running well, but still no boot at all. I could at least tell that the clock Cap had leaked so I decided to pull that. I got it out nice and clean and cleaned up the area around it but it didn’t look bad. No corrosion on front or back really. I reassembled for testing and now I’m getting the same FRAG but with no boot sounds. No disk spinning, no fans, nothing except the FRAG light. All I did was take out the clock Cap. Thinking about doing a full Cap replace on the board and PSU. Any other advice or things to test first?
  20. When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?
  21. still having this issue i get freezing/buzzing at the flubber logo with my hdd installed with everything correctly in place using the FatXplorer 3.0 beta to build/preload the drive and I have EVo bios installed too so hdd locking shouldn't be an issue i get a 07 (hdd time out) with no hdd installed (pretty obvious)
  22. Long time reader first time poster! Sorry to start in this way but I'm completely lost and if possible I need your help all... First disclaimer, before the attempt on both console to install the modchip everything works fine (stock console no softmod or other modchip). As per the title I've installed the same Aladin XT Plus 2 (pick-up from AliX) but at the end (after the first boot) both console start to have the same issue as per below : Tries to Boot 3x then FRAG (Christmas Lights) Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip or the IDE cable being plugged in upside down somewhere. Check modchip wiring and IDE cables. If you did not do any soldering, it could be a bad PSU. - On both console I've already removed all the wires for the Aladin (beside the connector on the MB) - Cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol - Replaced the power supply - Recaps (Done only on the 1.0) - Searched on the motherboard for broken component or any other strange visual sign of issue Is clear that the Aladin I've is faulty but what I can try now to revive those two console? Thanks!
  23. Hey all, I recently ordered a 1.0 motherboard and hdd off of ebay and went to mod it. Before modding, I booted them up and found them to be working properly. The clock cap was leaking bad so I replaced that. I soldered up the pin header to the LPC, connected a wire to the D0 pad and routed that to the Open Xenium I have, and went to boot it up. I'm greeted with a solid red LED on the modchip, and the xbox booting up into the normal bios. Attempting to boot into XeniumOS by pressing the eject button yields the same results. This modchip did originally come out of a 1.6, flashed with Evox M8+ 1.6. Just to rule out the modchip going bad on me, I wired it back up into the 1.6 and it booted perfectly. I threw an Aladdin chip, that's also flashed with Evox M8+ 1.6, into the 1.0 also, and it will not boot into custom bios either. I've reflowed my joints multiple times, and my D0 solder job is good (I believe lol), so I'm really not sure what's going on. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. LPC solder joints have been reflowed like 4 times so they look bad lol, forgive me.
  24. Hi, I brought my og xbox back to live and it is still working. But I now want to upgrade it with a 2 TB disk. I read a lot here in the forum and tried to find the components and bios I need for upgrade. So far my upgrade components are as follows: WD RE4 2 TB SATA (WD2003FYYS) Unpartitioned; Deleted partitions with easeUs never installed in a xbox Delock 62510 SATA 2 IDE Adapter (Successor of Delock 61702); According to data sheet: contains Marvell 88SA8052 Asus 80wire 40pin IDE / PATA Cable OGXBox 2021 (v1.5.4) Installer Disk Thank you very much Actual setup: Xbox Rev. 1.0 WD 200 GB IDE (unlocked) Aladdin Advanced with Xecuter2 4983.06 BIOS (256kb) EvolutionX Dashboard (1.8.3752) First I thought, I will go with a LBA48 modified/fixed EvoX M8+ CEE BIOS. After some reading of topics/posts on this forum, I stumbled up on the Original Aladdin Advanced Mod Chip comment from SS_Dave, where he recommend "IND 5004.67" for the Aladdin Advanced. Furthermore on youtube I saw the new CerBios 2.0.3R and found it here on the forum. This is is also a 256kb BIOS and as I get it right a brand new one. I think I will go with XBMC4Gamers, but not sure. Now I am not sure which BIOS I should use/flash to the Aladdin Advanced. Do you may have recommondations for me, which BIOS I should use? In addtion: Is the following plan I build in my head "correct" Open box and disassemble Clean MB and DVD-Rom Remove clock capacitor Clean GPU and CPU from old paste Add new thermal paste on GPU and CPU Install new 2TB WD, Adapter and new 80wire IDE cable Reassemble / close box Depending on BIOS M8+ (EvoX.m8.cee.67.noDVD.evoxdash.256.bin) / IND 5004.67 (iND-BiOS.5004.67.bin) Cold boot to OGXBox 2021 Installer Disk Run Flash EvoX 256KB Bios (1.0 – 1.4) OR Run Flash iND Bios (1.0 - 1.4). Do I have to worry about the "Err16 fix" because I removed the Clock capacitor and want to install on a "brand new"/unpartitioned HDD? Run 3.1.2. AiO Setup a new large HDD Run 4.3.6. Install XBMC4Gamers 8.2. Reboot the System (Without DVD). CerBios 2.0.3R Completly follow 16TB in an OG Xbox? CERBIOS has arrived (Borderline OCD) Is the step "BIOS Selection" with FATXplorer possible if the HDD is only/lower 2 TB (as the description for "Cerbios, Titan" says -> Only available for disks larger than 2 TB.? Having fun with 2 TB of Space Thank you very much in advance for your reply and help. Best regards bachmma1
  25. I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

Board Life Status

Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.