John7272

Just a thought. if you buy a $5 Aladdin chip and flash it, you can FIRST save your bios key! then use HEXEN to format the hard drive and FTP your files over. That's what I did with all the 1.6's I've modded.

You really do not need to use that port anymore, you can just use a HEXEN disk. If you have the 1MB version It can have a 1MB bios flashed, or 4 different 256k banks. Or really any combination to equal 1MB. I flashed mine with HEXEN 2017. My version is the 1MB, It did not come with the port. I do not have the bank switch on mine, but it now has a different bios on each of the 4 banks. Had to diagnose the chip to find the wires to ground so I could select each bank. My findings are posted in the Mod Chips forum. I cannot tell if you have the bank switch on yours, but if the bank switch is not connected the chip will not enable. They could have flashed the motherboard TSOP chip to an Xecuter bios. I am not saying this is your case, just letting you know what to look for. If you look at my schematics, the one with the Port like the one on yours is the Xecuter 2.2 Pro. but I think there is at least another that has it. Do you have it right now? can you open the xbox, see whats there, and post pictures?

I agree. in addition I think the port on back if for flashing an Xecuter 2.x Pro mod chip.

you swapped the one from your brothers and his was working fine. I have a dvd drive that makes booting freeze, maybe swap for your brothers to test.

mine have all been 64MB, never an issue. I use Seagate drives, had problems with WD drives. but others used WD with no probs

The reason I first format 6 and 7 to 1GB, then reformat to max size is I had problems. if I just formatted them full size all would look good but the whole partition would be blank after almost filling it. Good luck bro

if you only need 500GB, you may want to see if you can find an IDE PATA hard drive. then you do not need the adapter, which just adds another component that could cause issues. of course the IDE drives are older so no telling how long they will last. I do use SATA drives with an adapter in mine. you may as well go with a 2TB so you will have the extra room. This is how I build my hard drives. there are other ways, and I may do more than I need to, but more than 40 drives tells me it works great. I use the hexen disk. first I go to "xbox admin", "applications", XBpartitioner 1.3". then I lower 6 and 7 to 1GB and press start then Y to format. when its done I press back twice to exit. when hexen loads I select shutdown. I restart the xbox and let hexen boot. I go to "xbox admin", "applications", XBpartitioner 1.3". then press the X button until it splits all of the space between 6 and 7 and press start then Y to format. when its done I press back twice to exit. when hexen loads I select shutdown. I restart the xbox and let hexen boot again. I select "TSOP Flashed/Chipped Xbox Tools", "Chipped/Flashed Xbox Disk Upgrades", "New Disk, NTSC Xbox" (Passcode is AYBX) then enter. I let it do its thing. Then I go to "Install Applications", "Install XBMC to E" let it do its thing Then "Dashboard Tools", "Switch Dashboards", "TSOP/CHIP", Switch to XBMC on E". let it rock. last I back out and select "clean up installation Files", then "Clear Cache". After that I remove the hexen disk and reboot. it always takes me to XBMC. This is when I FTP into the Xbox and transfer all the Apps, Emulators and Games.

No problem bro, I help when I can. I have set up a whole lot of Xboxes, but every configuration yields different results. good luck and post up what you figure out so others know

dam. all that is left is the software on the 2TB sata, or the hard drive itself. I had issues with 2TB hard drives and only use Seagate now. others use the WD with no probs though.

next thing I would try is swapping the DVD drive. I have a Thomson that reads everything well in my v1.4, but boots to black in my v1.6

I would mark the stuff in your setup, then there is no confusion (like dam was this the cable that worked in his?) I would also try your drive in his xbox

maybe try the adapter from you brothers in yours?

if you have a PC that has an 80 wire cable, maybe you can use it to test?

I had the same problem with hitting eject to boot my dash once though, turned out my ribbon cable had an issue. I had like 10 of the same type cable from buying in bulk. when I tried another one it worked

OOPS! the adapter I am speaking of that needs the og ribbon is a SABRENT! my bad.

I have found that with the startech adapter, it is best to use the original Xbox ribbon cable. strange I know but it is my experience. I tried different hard drives, different Xbox revisions, and this was consistent for me.

Remembering back to when I purchased my first Xecuter 3 mod chip, I was annoyed to discover the bank switch did not come with it. Payed the price for getting a used one, or at least making sure it came with everything. I looked all over to see if someone could help me jumper connections so I could use the different banks available to no avail. Finally I bought one new, which is not a choice nowadays. So I am dissecting switches and making schematics for each, starting with the most popular Xecuter 3. I have already mapped out the Xecuter 2.2 Pro and Xecuter 2.3b and will make a .jpg for them as well. Not being familiar with the programs used to edit pictures and make these, it took me 3 times as long to make this one schematic than it took me to test and map it out. I'm saying this in hopes I won't get flamed for poor work, I just want to help. Let me know what you think.

Caps came to mind right away. also make sure the fan is still working, maybe check temps

It does not go to an error screen?

Spot on with the wiring. Used my X3CP motherboard which has a good working X3. Then metered every connection from the LPC to next connection from the solder pad on the SmartXX. It detects the difference between the power button and eject because it boots motherboard bios on eject, and attempts to boot chip bios on power button. Tried it in my motherboard with a working Xenium Ice as well with the same results. Should have taken pictures of how it was set up, regret it now. It is disassembled already. It seems like the OS is corrupt to me so I'm trying something new. I have a working SmartXX chip coming which has the pinheader section still on it. Going to meter the connections to see if it changes connections to the LPC. from pictures I have noted that it disconnects 2 points (pictured) when the pinheader section is removed. Need the new chip to verify. I will boot the new chip and get it set to flash an update OS, then hotswap. My results will be posted here.

booted the xbox with my Xenium ice chip and tried to hotswap and flash the SmartXX chip. Did not work, kept saying not flashable. but at least I know my LPC and DO are working right.

UPDATE: connecting the "eject" pad on the chip to the motherboard point in the instructions. This allows me to boot the motherboard TSOP. When I press eject It boots the motherboard bios fine, which loads my XBMC. When I press power it frags frags and then... frags. I tried jumpering JP1, JP2, and JP3 in all combinations and it still frags. Tried it in my v1.4 which has a working X3 modchip with the same results. It frags when I try to start with the smartxx. if I press eject it boots the motherboard TSOP. The pinheader section of the modchip is snapped off for installation in a v1.6, which the instructions say to do. I have a 1.2 though, but this should be fine. the video I found shows a wire install in a v1.o which the pinheader section is snapped off. I

literally just found that file on my hard drive and came to brag lol! but came here to see you posted it! the instructions said that the eject wire is not needed, so I did not do it. now that I have it soldered it will boot my TSOP. this tells me that the chip is controlling the boot process. just cannot get the OS to boot. I do not think there are any bios's flashed to it. I believe the chip has never been used, none of the pads had any solder on them. they were all like new. of course someone may have tried to install via pinheader but the DO point is on the chip and was never soldered. I am soldering a connector to it now to try it in my other Xboxes. they all have pinheaders from my X3's

Frag no matter what, I tried: power (fast press), (hold), (double press) eject all 3 variations. both buttons following traces on the motherboard, the chip has a good connection at the LPC. I am starting to think the chip is bad, but I am going to mess with it for a while and see what happens. I see that the smartxx v3 has 2 easy solder pads labeled "recover DO", the OPX has 3 of them labeled JP1, JP2 and JP3. I am going to see what happens on all button press combos when these pads are shorted.

I did look in wayback, couldn't find info I already had. Filled a 4TB hard drive with info and roms over the years, some of which does not exist on the web now. just never dealt with this chip. None of what I have or found explains the recovery options, just some mentions of it in wayback. I am installing it in a v1.2 Xbox, but can install it in any version as I have them all. I don't want it in a v1.6 because I also RAM upgrade all my units. Any help or suggestions are much appreciated