Gray1

Well what I do is take the screw out but leave as much of the sticker that as I can. Then cut the duct tape in small circles just large enough to cover the holes. Yes it looks a little strange but not too bad. It's just what I do. No wrong or right answer.

To my knowledge there are no replacement stickers for these. But if you check around for duct tape, you will find some that has almost the exact color. I have used that just to cover up the screw holes.

I have used several of these with good success Digi-Key Part #493-3291-ND Digi-Key Part # https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/JUMT1105MPD/2003415?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwE4DMBaJYEEYUDkAiIAugL5A

I wish there was a simple answer for this. It depends on the TV. Hyperkin works pretty good on Vizio and Element but not on Samsung. The cheap component cables don't work very well either. I have never tried the Pounds cable so I can't speak to that. Right now I am using a component cable made from the XBOX 360 cable. You can make them or there is a guy selling them on Ebay. I would say stay with a good component cable.

Did the OP say he tried to remove the heatsink? If he did I missed it. If it failed right after he removed the heatsink, then that is a different matter.

Well I will tell you what I would try. These original XBOX do not seem to have much of a problem with the GPU's. But i would take a heat gun and a thermomter gun and heat the area of the gpu to about 245 F..Thats F (farentheith) NOT C (Celcius). That is not enough temp to melt the solder underneith but it will excite the molucles inside the GPU and maybe snap it back to working. I have done this quite a few times with laptops and 360's. Many times its not the solder holding the gpu but the gpu is not working. But it will not hold. It is at best a temporary fix. It will fail again. I tried to find someone a couple years back to reball a Halo 3 XBOX 360 and could not find anyone to do it. I highly doubt anyone will want to reball this OG XBOX and it may be the GPU itself that has failed. The best thing to do is to change the motherboard if the gpu has failed. Just my 2 Cents

That is an interesting question.. The original capacitor was filled with Aerogel. I think it was actually called a supercapacitor. SS_Dave is right you can just leave it off. It acted like a small battery that would hold the setting if unplugged or power outage. But it would only hold the setting for about 45 minutes then you had to reset the XBOX anyway. I don't know if a regular capacitor would hold the setting that long. I used this one https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=493-3291-ND.

Looks great man.. Never heard of Bblonde and film. Will have to check that out.

How new is the TV? I am a firm believer in doing no harm so no problem in more troubleshooting. Try a different TV if you can. See if that makes any difference. Make sure 480p and 720P are enabled in the settings. Is this stock or a softmod?

First open up the Xbox and look at the capacitors. See if the top of the caps are swelled. They should be flat and not swelled like the first picture. They should look like the second picture. The three next to the heatsink are the prime suspects. But I would check them all since you have it out.

Yep..thats what happened to me. The three large caps by the heatsink . I believe they are 6.3V 3300uF but don't quote me on that. Mine had rounded blown out tops. Check to see if yours look that way. Maybe other things will cause this. I don't know.

You got any bad capacitors in that xbox?

I wanted to post this because someone in the future may run into the same problem. In my first post I failed to mention that I have just bought a new Samsung N5300 TV. I put this V 1.2 XBOX together with a large HD. When booting the IND-5004 bios I got these weird looking vertical red lines in the boot process. Once it was finished booting, it looks great. I found out it acted this way no matter which bios I tried using. I thought it had to be in the IDE to SATA adaptor. I tried different adaptors, the cheap Chinese and the Startech. No difference but the Startech ran slower, but the boot looked the same. I tried switching IDE cables but there was no differences in the boot. At the same time the XBOX looked fine on my 48” Vizio TV and a cheap Element TV from Walmart. I tried versions 1.0, 1.1, and 1.2. , there was no difference. But when I tried an XBOX V 1.4, everything looked fine. I went and got another V 1.4 and confirmed the version of the XBOX made the difference. I don’t know why. I know they use different video chips and the 1.4 uses a Focus chip. Maybe that is the difference I don’t know. But anyway I got a V 1.4 working fine on the Samsung. I have way too much time in this.

I have had good luck with the Bare Conductive Paint with it's ease of use and it's ability to conduct electricity. One drawback to using this is that it stays conductive for a little while but it doesn't stay that way. In a couple of years you won't be able to flash it. You will have to take it apart and clean the TSOP points with 91% alcohol. Then reapply the Bare paint and reflash. Probably be better off to clean the TSOP points right after flashing to whatever Bios you want to put on it.

I could never get it to work. Maybe I was doing something wrong.