shawly

Awesome! Only bummer would be that most printers wouldn't be able to print this in one piece.

@ShinGoutetsu did you design the 3D model of the motherboard yourself?

You're welcome! Hope you'll keep us updated on how it works.

Jacob Elektronik should ship to the UK: https://direkt.jacob.de/produkte/inter-tech-inter-tech-88882190-artnr-6675717.html?utm_source=geizhals&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Preisvergleich&ref=103

@ShinGoutetsu yeah you also mentioned this on the bitbuilt forums, nice custom case btw! I found some PicoPSUs on Aliexpress (here & here) that are apparently capable of providing 10A on the 5V line, the 450W ones you can find there. But I'm not quite sure how much chinesium they used for building these since there also are not datasheets one has to "trust" that the product they sell is actually capable of what the description says. Yet I'm quite tempted to try one of these. Edit: I also asked the manufacturer of the Nanum SE-P180Q how much it can deliver on the 5V line, and they said it can deliver up to 8A peak. Also found the Inter-Tech mini-ITX PSU 200W which apparently can deliver 12A on the 5V line, without the DVD drive and a 2.5" HDD/SSD it should be even capable to drive the Xbox without removing capacitors, right?

So I've been reading a lot about using PicoPSUs for the OG Xbox and I've often read that most of them aren't able to supply the necessary current over the 5V line. I've seen some people recommend the picoPSU-160-XT as it is able to supply up to 8A on the 5V line, but is that what most people use for their slim projects? It doesn't look like there is a real consensus which PicoPSUs are the most ideal, but is there anything better than the picoPSU-160-XT? I've seen the "M4-ATX" from Minibox which is capable of providing a whopping 15A but it's not exactly small anymore. Could anyone enlighten me on this topic?

That's what I hoped for. Thanks for the quick answer!

Hey @N64 freak, I bought some of your Rev1.2-Rev1.5 PCBs a few weeks ago. Now I got a 1.0 a couple of days ago and I'd rather use that one for my ultra slim mod, so I wanted to ask if the Rev1.2-Rev1.5 PCBs could technically also be used for 1.0's? Looking at the pinout I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I wanted to ask if there is any difference between the PCBs apart from the Xbox connector.

Yeah this is what I'm scared of! With the 3v3SB line I could technically even power the ESP32 when the Xbox is off, that would make it possible for me to turn it on via the ESP32, that's neat. Thanks for the pinout image!

So a while back I had the plan of driving RGB LEDs from my Xboxes LPC header with the help of an ESP32. Because of reasons we haven't really worked on that project any further yet. In the meantime @Ryzee119 created the OpenXenium project, which effectively makes things waaay easier than before as we can use the OpenXenium's SPI for communication with the ESP32. Now the only question is, where is the best place on the Xbox to take 3.3V from for powering the ESP32 and two single LEDs (+ some headroom for leds on the controller ports maybe)? Would it be safe to power that many components though the OpenXenium's or rather the LPC's 3.3V line? Also where can I take 5V from for the 24 LED pixel ring I want to put under the jewel?

We did it. The problem was our hardware, after looking at the datasheet of the ATmega 328P we noticed that the HIGH voltage for the I2C is Vcc*0.7 and the Arduino was powered with 5V over USB. After that we tried an ESP8266, which also was a fail since it doesn't have hardware I2C and the software implementation is too slow. Hence we bought an ESP32 devkit and we finally got it working! We are now able to change between LED modes solid and cycle and we can control the colors for solid. Next step would be designing a new PCB to replace the front panel completely and to easier integrate the ESP. Last thing would be adding a separate web interface so it can be controlled via smartphone.

Awesome you're da man! Just preordered one. But do you make any profit out of this? I'd gladly donate a little more.

That could actually be the issue here, we only tried 8 bit addresses.. And we were wondering how it's possible to set the read and write bit when our address is 8 bit, oh god... Edit: Just remembered we also tried 0x5A and I just talked to my friend and he knew about the Arduino being one bit off so he corrected it and it still didn't work. But are there any other steps necessary to put the Arduino into slave mode other than calling Wire.begin(<address>)?

Yeah, but the LCD mod for the Aladdin only reads data from existing devices. My goal is to register a new slave on the SMBus so we can send data to it. Which in theory should work, but in reality it doesn't, at least not like we expected. We ordered a proper logic analyzer now and we'll debug again this weekend, maybe we can find out more. I guess the problem is that the hardware address we set on our Arduino is wrong and that the real address is shifted further than one bit like the xboxdev wiki says.

So my friend and I are trying to replace the front panel LEDs with RGB LEDs using a separate microcontroller. We were able to read the status from the current front panel so we can react to error codes properly, so it isn't just a "dumb" LED replacement with an external controller. Our next goal was to send commands over the SMBus to the Arduino (Nano, ATmega328P) we use to control the RGB LEDs. I customized the XBMC code to send data to the new address I defined for the Arduino, in our case we used 0xE9. Since the Wire library of the Arduino already shifts the bits, we set the Arduino's address to 0xE9 too. The thing is, the Xbox sends the signal, but the Arduino isn't reacting to the given address. We already tried to analyze the signal and we can confirm that there is data being sent through the SMBus. OFC we wired up SDA and SCL correctly, we checked twice and since the logic analyzer is able to sniff data, it should be correct. Has anyone ever tried this yet? I've seen a couple of threads talking about controlling Ambilight over the SMBus but it seems like nobody has tried it yet. I guess we are doing something wrong, but we haven't yet figured out what it is that we are missing. Next thing would be buying a proper logic analyzer, but maybe somebody here has some experience and could lead us in the right direction before we spend the money. Is there any more documentation on the SMBus of the Xbox out there? I've just found the documented stuff on the xboxdevwiki. Thanks in advance!

Yeah, I've used Hexen 2018 to install UnleashX and now I'm trying to get a 1TB SATA HDD to work, it seemed to format properly but now the Xbox will always boot like I had the Hexen disk still in the drive and the LEDs are cycling between red, green and orange. But I think the IDE2SATA adapter is just faulty, I'll order another one to confirm. I'm still wondering why the EvoX logo appeared on boot even though D0 wasn't soldered to anything.

Wait what, I just unsoldered D0 from the chip and left the cable hanging, without soldering it to the case or anything else. If I start the Xbox now, it boots with an EvoX logo into the MS dashboard, what does this mean? Edit: Just soldered the cable back to D0 on the chip out of interest, it now fully boots into the MS dashboard with the EvoX logo on boot... So is this caused by a buggy D0 that people are talking about with the Aladdin XT?

I soldered D0 to the LAN LEDs ground according to the guide, but then it never worked it always booted into the MS dashboard until someone said I have to solder it to the chip's D0 which causes the black screen now. Would it really make a difference if I solder D0 to another ground if the LAN LED's ground didn't work? The unsoldered pin isn't in use, like I said, the 4 pins at the top aren't in use, I misplaced the pin header at first and wasn't able to unsolder everything again so I added more pins I got from another project.

LPC Header is on the first pic or what do you mean? The Xbox works perfectly fine, if I unplug the chip it boots into the MS dash, it just won't boot when the chip is plugged in. I don't know what else I should check, I even measured if a signal is coming to the D0.. I don't have another system and I'd have to order a second chip to verify if the chip itself is causing this. After googling this issue it seems it's not really common. Is there any way I could measure if the LPC header is still intact? Maybe I destroyed something, but if that were the case I'd expect FRAG.. I'm cluesless right now..

Uh I did post pictures? The only other wire is going from D0 to the chips D0, it's a 1.4, there aren't any more wires

Hi, so I've used this guide to install an Aladdin XT PLUS2 into my rev 1.4 Xbox. I soldered D0 to the chip and bridged BT so the chip is always on, but as soon as I power up the system, the screen stays black. If I unplug the chip it normally boots. At first I followed the guide and soldered D0 to the LAN LED's ground, but then the Xbox would just boot normally without the EvoX logo, after I soldered D0 to the chip, the black screen problem appeared. (FYI I took the pictures when I still had D0 soldered to the LAN LED's ground. Oh and Ignore the 4 pins at the top, I was too fast and placed the pin header wrong, so I had to solder on 3 other pins) I already checked the solder points three times and tried to reflow the solder points two times in hopes that I just messed up soldering the pins, but that didn't help either. Can somebody tell me what the cause for this to happen could be? The system doesn't FRAG, HDD spins up, but the TV just stays black.