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Fringle

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Everything posted by Fringle

  1. I tried but apparently it requires Vivado which requires full registration to download and they need to verify your address due to US export regulations. I guess I failed and it's not letting me download it. That's as far as I was able to get. If I do manage to get the program and get it working I'll let you know in 2 weeks when I get home from work and have access to my pico again. I don't have an aladdin though so will only be able to get so far. Unless any knows of some other free software you can get for jtag programming, which I'm not sure if this will be compatible with.
  2. No problem. There is a prebuilt .uf2 file in the firmwares directory so you shouldn't have to compile it yourself. Will be interesting if this works as it could save buying additional hardware for programming an Aladdin XT if one is non-flashable via the Xbox as well.
  3. This could be useful. https://github.com/kholia/xvc-pico/tree/ng
  4. It’s definitely something to look into. If this wasn’t a free upgrade/repair for a friend I would for sure look into it. But since I’ve already upgraded the hdd, added a modchip, sata adapter and the Wii2hdmi free of cost I’m happy with the result as I’m sure they will also be.
  5. I have 2 1.0s with internal wii2hdmi and they have zero distortion in the image. It was also a while ago that I installed these and more recently the 1.4. It could come down to a lower quality batch of adapters as well.
  6. Do you get the same wavy lines with using component cables? If not it's probably interference in the adapter, possibly a bad ground. I have a 1.4 here that I recently installed an internal wii2hdmi that has the same wavy lines but using component cables the interference wasn't present. I gave up trying to sort out the ground connections because it's not overly distracting and only really noticeable on solid color backgrounds.
  7. I'm not sure if that would fix it either. I had a coma recently that would sporadically boot but for the most part would not. When it did boot the tsop no matter what I tried would not flash. Kept saying write protected or unknown flash even though the write points were bridged. It is a 1.4 with a winbond. With the chip fitted it boots every time. I'd be willing to try again though if the option to do so with a chip came about.
  8. Other than designing some kind of 3d printable bracket the only thing I could think of would be to use double sided thermal conductive tape. Probably not as good as MX4 but will be better than nothing holding it on.
  9. Tsop would need to be flashed before the 128mb install. Attempting to boot stock tsop with upgraded RAM will result in frag. Booting off the chip disables the tsop access and I don't believe a soft mod would be compatible with the upgrade either. I could be wrong as there maybe a way to do it but I think it would be more trouble than it's worth if so. One way to get it to work would be to remove the tsop, program it externally and reinstall it.
  10. It has been done but from what I remember it was only with specific LG drives. I did one about 20 years ago but now IDE drives are rare and if you do manage to find one that's compatible, chances are it's expensive. See this post with information on the subject.
  11. Yeah, I soldered both the write points. First tried conductive paint but then when that didn't work went with solder but still got unknown flash type, write protected or no response. It's a winbond. Tried with xblast, evox, and gentoox. Nothing would flash this thing. Was worse then dealing with a sharp. Was doing it from a softmod so maybe that had something to do with it but never had an issue like that before. Ah well, it's chipped now and good to go.
  12. After many unsuccessful attempts to flash the tsop I gave up and remembered I had an aladdin here. Threw that in and it's good to go. Lucky enough it was also flashable and was able to load it with Cerbios. Xbox works first try every time now.
  13. Sorry for the necro but I have just come into one of these 1.4 consoles with the same symptoms. I can get it to boot once in a while but mostly it exhibits the no video/audio. Since I'd rather not put a chip in it because it's not mine and I'm fixing it for free, when I can manage to get it to boot again, I'm curious if maybe a tsop flash would also potentially fix it?
  14. It's probably the adapter. What error do you get if you leave the dvd drive unplugged. If the adapter doesn't have a master/slave/cable select jumper it's likely to cause issues such as this. If the bios on the modchip supports dvd drive removal you can attempt to create your hdd with fatxplorer using a pc and it should boot with the dvd drive disconnected.
  15. old post woops
  16. It's common for a disc drive with a bad laser to not spin the disc. Not saying it's defiantly the fault but usually a good place to start before looking at the spindle motor.
  17. Without a working dvd drive your only option would be to get yourself a device that can dump the eeprom so you can extract your hdd key and use it to unlock the hdd with fatxplorer. There are a couple of options for this device. Cheapest option probably being a rp pico flashed with ArduinoProm but this method is not straight forward and requires you to recompile for the pico. There is a user on this forum that also makes such a device but it's been a while since I've been here so can't recall exactly who it is or what his device is called. Actually another option would be to setup another hdd with fatxplorer and use it to dump your eeprom. Since you tsop flashed you don't need to lock it to have it work in the xbox and can dump the eeprom with evoxdash or other eeprom dumping software.
  18. Could possibly be a cache issue. If you have access to the original msdash you could boot it and clear the cache or use FTP and delete the files in the cache drive letters. I seem to recall I had a similar issue before and this fixed it although I could be mistaken.
  19. It's been a long time since I've set this up in XBMC but this guide for Kodi should be relatively similar. All I remember is that it can be finicky and sometimes not all shows would always show up or would show up incorrectly. I'm sure it's possible to get it to work as you want it to but was too time consuming for me at the time. https://kodi.wiki/view/HOW-TO:Create_Video_Library
  20. It's most likely the drive belt is worn out and needs to be replaced. These can be found pretty cheap online. Here's a link to give you an idea. https://console5.com/store/microsoft-xbox-original-xbox-dvd-drive-drawer-tray-loading-belt.html
  21. It's 100% your controller. Had the same issue and purchasing a genuine controller allowed me to use XblastOS, Gentoox, and Resctoox properly where my cheap 3rd party one would not. The only other option would be to get your controllers IDs and compile yourself a custom version of XblastOS from the source. I have an Xbox with a Sharp Tsop and when all others fail to flash it, Gentoox worked. Might be a similar experience with the Winbond.
  22. If I had to guess I would say it needs a recap. So replacement of the capacitors. You can lookup and buy kits for this or order them individually on their own. Sounds like by power it on and off multiple times before getting it to boot is charging the capacitors enough to give it some life but once you turn it off they start to drain and once drained the problem returns. I could however be wrong and the issue might be something else. I did have an old TV like this though that I found on the side of the road. If I plugged it in after being unplugged it would not turn on right away. After some time of being plugged in the set would turn itself on and work until power was removed. Then the problem would then repeat. I eventually replaced a bad capacitor and the problem was solved.
  23. The command you'd use to combine or merge two 512mb bios would be "copy /b 512BIOS1.bin + 512BIOS2.bin NEW1024BIOS.bin" but remove the quotes. File names used are just an example but the output file would be a 1mb bios consisting of two 512mb bios files.
  24. Only problem with ordering a TSOP chip like that is that it is likely to come blank unless it's been removed from an old xbox and if don't you have a programmer you'll have no way to flash it to see if it works. You'll also need a copy of an original MS bios or a modded bios of your choice to flash on to it. Since they are from a 1.0, any 1.0 or 1.1 1mb TSOP should work. I have a spare 1mb sharp at home on a 1.1 board but won't be there until the middle of next month to remove it. If you're still in need when I get there I'll remove it and send it to you.
  25. It looks like the resistors came from R7D4 and R7D5. Don't want to assume because the picture doesn't show it but if I had to guess, the capacitor is probably from C7D2 giving it's location to the LPC.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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