UltimateMe

It's a custom Coppermine Pentium III CPU and they are common for producing a lot of heat. I like lower temperatures, but between 40 to 60 degrees Celsius is common. Also dashboards aren`t always very good with showing the real temperature (Ava X for example, where XBMC is a lot better). I don`t know about the LCD screens.

I learned something new today. Never heard of Insignia (or can`t remember it). So looked at insignia.live, and saw it's an Xbox Live replacement.

I found data in the Splinter Cell "save" game. So I used Splinter Cell again to softmod it. After a check there is several previous softmod stuff to find on the disk. So why they reverted it instead of booting the default msdash if they want, is a miracle.

I have the Xbox open, but did not find any hard mod evidence (no pins, no soldering on via's). I saw Splinter Cell and Mechassault as safe games and they were also included in the lot of games. It's the first time I got a Xbox without the complete softmod, but with parts of it as left over. Therefore I opened it to see if maybe someone had put effort in the 1.6 to hard mod it. But no, also no traces that there maybe was a hardmod once.

I've bought a Xbox (1.6 version) because of the physical games that were included in the deal. So I connected the Xbox to my TV and take a look at the memory. When removing the game saves I found some stuff that I normally not see unless the Xbox is modded. Beside the UnleashX Xbox launcher also Xbox Media Center, dvd2box and some other stuff was showing up. I tried to FTP to the xbox to see what's on the disk (it's the original 10GB disk), but that is not working, but it has network connection. It boots up in the normal MS Dash. I don't have the time or desire to put a mod chip and larger disk in it. I only want to know if someone has a clue.

Seems like a nice job. The only thing I should have done different is the xbox on the DVD drive. I would keep that original silver.

With a hot air soldering station the risks are the smallest and with a good nozzle very good manageable. But also with de-soldering wick it is possible. It's important to select the right size and not overheating (but that is with everything). But hot air always has the advantage over de-soldering wick in my opinion with stuff like RAM chips.

Well, I added the boot animations, so that makes things a bit slower. But populated R4 with a 100 ohm SMD resistor. And from 52 seconds with boot animation to 25 seconds with the boot animation. So yes, this hack fixes the slowness of the cheaper adapters. Maybe without DVD it is even faster than that, but at this moment I don`t have time to do all those checks I didn`t changed anything else on the adapter. But for a few cents the slowness can be fixed and then I'm wondering why they don`t do it at production... that few cents will not prevent people buying it.

$ 0,40 per 10, so no But with manageable I mean an option to get them fast, but found some reliable company, so will have them with a day.

If I have some free time I will try it. Need to look for a 100 ohm resistor, but that will be manageable A small, tidy job I see. Need some loupe too.

Well, one of my colleagues had a Startech adapter and also a adapter with a JMicron chipset. So I tested both. - The adapter with the JMicron chipset is slower than my el-cheapo (but it was not the most cheap one). It's 5+ seconds slower than the cheaper one. But again more slow with the DVD attached (same as with the cheap one) - The Startech was a bit faster, but not more than 3 seconds than the cheap one. But again the same problem that it is much slower with the DVD attached So I'm not sure what is causing this issues. Also tried with the adapters several settings (jumper on master, slave or none). But the issue persists. As mentioned in the OP, I also tried different DVD drives. Out of ideas at this moment.

Yep. And with all my testing I tried several options

The 1500uF caps in the OG Xbox are 1820 mA on 100kHz, so the one you selected is way, way too high with its 7.785A @ 100kHz. A quick check told me that they have no lower ripple current for those poly caps. Electrolytic this are good replacements: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/nichicon/UHD0J152MPD/2598038

Startech is hard to get here at the moment. I've ordered a DeLock which seems to be tested in the community as good alternative, it will come in next week. But besided of that: without the DVD the performance is good, and the adapter is also tested in a PC and has good performance, so I don`t expect the adapter to be the problem. But I'm curious if the DeLock changes something. I'm using UDMA4, which is the way to go with this adapter. No changes with lower UDMA modes.

Well, about ripple currency there is enough information to find on the internet, so I'm not gone give a full course here But the answer is NO on "The way I understand it generally higher ripple current is better as caps will last longer.. ". A bit higher is not a problem, but you don`t want it to high. And you certainly want it too low. Too low: - overheating of the caps - reduced performance - unreliable working Too high: - overload - less efficient Which caps do you want to replace? I can give you some advice on which you could order.

I'm messing around with my own Xbox OG and have a modchip with Cerbios in it. I also changed the default hard drive with a SATA 160GB version and an IDE2SATA adapter with 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable. The boot is slow and yes I know the cheap IDE2SATA adapters can be annoying. But I used the exact same adapter in other Xboxes and they work fine. So, I did some testing. With the DVD drive attached (in the cerbios.ini it is defined as DriveSetup = 1 (which is HDD & No DVD (Legacy Mode)) the boot time is 42 seconds. When I detach the DVD drive, the boot time is aprox 20 to 21 seconds before the full EvolutionX dash is loaded. I tried several DVD drives (the one original in this Xbox is a Thompson, but I also tried Philips, Samsung) and the load time is with the DVD drive attached always 42 seconds and without at max 21 seconds. I also tried another 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable a had laying around, but same issue. Because I sometimes use the DVD drive I can`t eliminate it, so I'm out of ideas. If the adapter was also slow without the DVD, I would suspect that to be the problem, but in this case the performance without the DVD is fine (I also tested the adapter in a PC and it has good throughput). So if anyone has an idea to check and improve the time with the DVD attached it would be nice.

FatXplorer is the best indeed, but XboxHDM is beter than the XboxHDMusb version in my opinion and can be used in a boot environment, where FatXplorer can`t.

Still very little information. Do you use an IDE to SATA converter? Do you have the disk directly connected to an IDE port in a PC? In the last case try to use xboxHDM 1.9.

I'm missing some information here. Which tool did you use to unlock the drive? Is it XboxHDM? In that case, try to lock it again (without trying to unlock). When you use the eeprom.bin that would work. Sometimes the first time it says it has locked the disk, but it didn`t. I've seen it a few times. Also a warning sign is that it costs you many attempts to get the eeprom.bin. Normally it would be successful after 1 or 2 tries, not many. That made me wonder how good the eeprom realy is. You can check it with the XboxEepromEditor (https://github.com/Ernegien/XboxEepromEditor)

How beter your 3D printer (and the resolution it can handle) how beter the result. Even rework it with sandpaper is an option. For translucent you can use clear varnish after that or a color.

Unfortunately there are a lot of people bashing on the Aladdin chips, but luckily there are a lot of good ones, which are flashable from the Xbox instead of an external programmer. Flashing it with Cerbios is a good way to go! Also some Aladdins have the option to switch the chip with an 1MB version and install Xblast OS on it (also read the first comment):

I hope it isn`t from Jax, because that nitwit sends a lot of faulty ones. But you need to give some more information to say something helpful. - Is the light on the chip on - Does the system FRAG? - Did you solder a wire onto the chip from BT to ground? https://imgur.com/gallery/DS9KBbn - is D0 connected to a good ground point, like the screwplate?

No, it's not an odd response. Turning automatically on after give the Xbox power or only powering up using the reset button or common issues. As said this has mostly to do with some traces that are damaged. The second option is capacitors that are faulty. So open the Xbox up and check if the caps are flat on top. Even a light bulge means the capacitor has reached its end. That are the two most common issues when the Xbox is powering on by itself when giving it power. And yes, I've seen this issue many times before.

That is not a setting in xbmc, mostly it's caused by damage within the Xbox, like a leaking clockcap messing up traces. What's the date of the console? Is it opened before?

Exactly what I've said in my previous post. The last one is the best. The first one doesn`t state the ripple, the second has a way to low ripple, the last one has an "okay" ripple current.