Bowlsnapper

I have no doubt you are capable! Yeah, Plasmas are kinda fresh for me too. I know the basics of how they work and what every board is for, etc, but I have yet to learn as much about them as I have about CRTs. The caps in there ARE pretty high voltage, but since late consumer CRTs had bleed circuits for discharging the caps upon power-off, I wouldn't worry too much. I just use latex gloves and I'm not worried.

When you talk about what goes where, are you taking about cables or caps? The caps are labeled on the PCB, so you just gotta write it down and then the value of the capacitor. But if you're talking about all the boards and cables, that plasma is pretty straightforward, really.

I was under the impression that the sensors gave a reading and that either the bios or the software just displayed this value as a number that we understand. Can the interpretation of a temperature sensor value really vary like that? Bet @KaosEngineer knows! The man is a temperature guru.

Seriously. I got an anxiety attack looking at the pic in the OP.

Thank you. Please post your work and exactly what went into it when you are able and have time! ... Your avatar scares the SHIT out of me. lol.

I am unaware of this. Are you able to give any details about the patch?

What did you use to install XBMC?

Thanks for the compliment, buddy. That's pretty cool to read. Yes, I remember. I actually have one of those in my storage unit, believe it or not. Same model. In fact its in the bottom left of that picture right above. That thing is AMAZING. The colors are absolutely out of this world. I saw the fans up top and I was like oh my GOD. @SS_Dave was right. I have a space heater in my room. 500 watts, yeah? I replaced it with my LG 50PM6700 3D plasma. I think the colors on the Panny are a bit better, honestly, but I just HAAAD to have my 3D. The brand of caps I use when recapping is Nichicon and Rubycon. Nichicon seems to be the best from my research. The recap process is tedious, but worth it to prevent cascading failures. Those things (plasmas) have a tendency to die, mostly from all the damn high voltage that's going around in there. That kills caps like crazy. But I assume you know how to desolder them, write down their position and values and order from Digikey, yes? I'm actually recapping another Samsung Slimfit CRT, this one's got 2 components, 2 s-videos, 2 HDMI ports. It's a beast... and it has 43 capacitors. Jesus it's gonna take like 4 hours to solder those all in.

I wasn't intending to say that your question/response was unreasonable. I was only saying why I had the explanation I did for why he was experiencing the problem. It could very well be what you are saying and I never meant to hint that you were wrong. I guess I shouldn't have acted like I KNEW it was solid fact and instead explained that I thought it was just what I believed to be the case. Didn't mean to imply by doing so that you were just wrong. In retrospect it probably looked like I was saying "Nah. It's THIS. Nothing else should be considered. I, Bowlsnapper, Snapper of Bowls, am the only that need be consulted on the matter." I did not intend to do so. I'm certainly not Xboxstradamas. My bad.

If you're feeling heat back there, especially a lot, that means your heatsinks are doing their job and that the paste is transferring heat effectively. Your fans are then pulling air through the sinks and removing it from the case. Your only problem then would be if your processors were running too hot, but you would experience bottlenecking like frameskipping or lockups before you ever really overheated. So you're thinking of it backwards. If you feel lots of heat out the back, then your paste is fine. But if you feel nothing but ambient air out the back but have symptoms of overheating (performance-wise) THEN you would have to worry about your thermal paste. Make sense?

I had to read that a few times to make sure I was reading it correctly. Your grandma sounds awesome. The original experience is what I prefer, from a purist point of view. Just to confirm, what type of video cable are you using?

If he's using component cables or anything other than composite, really ( @offendude2347 ), it means only one element of color is making it through, just enough for an image. If he cleans the port, then the other colors will be able to make it through and give a complete image.

Do you just like collecting the games, themselves? Because you are spending money when you don't need to. But if it's about the collecting, then I suppose it doesn't really matter. There are so many games out there I just can't justify spending on it, when I could just download them all, as a matter of practicality... but maybe practicality has nothing to do with it. Well, if you change your mind, come back here and hit us up. We will get you all sorted out. It's fun and awesome though, Im tellin ya.

Your A/V port is dirty/corroded. Guarantee. I had this happen to me too a couple times. Apply some isopropyl alcohol to the male AV plug and female A/V jack on the Xbox and while they are still wet, insert it and remove it, in and out about 7 or 8 times to clean the contacts. Pull it back out and then take another q-tip and clean the copper contacts in the A/V port in the Xbox. Let both male and female dry, and then plug it in, test and report back.

Locking is basically a non-issue at that point, correct. Modding your system will make it a LOT more fun to use. You can install emulators on it, supporting multiplayer so you can play with friends. You can find HDD images that will come with every single xbox game ever released, as long as you have at least a 2TB drive. It basically turns it into a kind of PC. The work can end up being rewarding as well and will help you build confidence in those skills, if it's something that you would want in your life. The only trade off is that you would be learning with your only console, so you definitely don't wanna break it, as I'm sure it has sentimental value. You have no idea when your HDD will fail, and I don't see that as any logical reason to wait to mod your system. It could still take several years. I say go for it. Are you able to solder?

Nice job.

Temperatures will be recorded in your dashboard. When in XBMC I go to system info with the right stick button and I am showed CPU and GPU temps. This is done with a hardmod. Softmodding is janky. I wouldn't wait for a HDD failure... unless you don't feel comfortable soldering. I wouldn't want to mess with the thermal paste, either. Unless your system is experiencing lockups, it's really not needed. This thing doesn't get that hot when cooled with properly functioning fans.

I've never needed to do it. I know that. lol. That stuff is bulletproof.

Well... it can be MOUNTED internally. But what we're talking about is true HDMI. So the Ryzee encoder, Harcroft OpenXHD, MakeMHZ HD+. The wii2HDMI can be mounted internally, but still pulls the signal from component first. That being said, it does a GREAT job of converting the signal and It looks as good as you're gonna get with component to HDMI conversion, in my opinion. I have one and it is awesome.

Thank you for verifying. I was hoping somebody would.

OGXBox XBlastOS MC/USB TSOP Flasher Created by Sweetdarkdestiny There is no need to softmod your xbox before TSOP flashing. This tool created by Sweetdarkdestiny makes it very simple to flash your TSOP with nothing but a stock console and a USB drive. But really, as long as you are able to launch the MS bios from your TSOP, even with a chip (disabled, of course), this tool can do it for you. The readme "How to run the exploit save" contains information on which games are exploitable and will tell you which folder to use for the game you want to use. I have used this thing multiple times and it is quite idiot proof. Please read the "Read ME" to understand more about how to run the exploit. For the record, I use splinter cell because it's pretty straightforward and works every time. This is the way I personally use it: I place the 21585554 folder and the game save folder I need on the USB drive. I then drag over the bios I would like to use to the flash drive. As long as you remember where you put it, that's all that matters. I plug in the flash drive and boot to the MS Dashboard. I copy both save files (the installer application and the exploitable game save) over to the HDD using the game save manager in the MS Dashboard. I then restart the console. I load the game and follow the instructions for that particular game. Once the exploit loads and I am in the tool's menu, I use the live file browser to copy the bios I placed on the flash drive over to C:/Bios/. I can then be assured that I know exactly what bios I am flashing and as newer versions of Cerbios come out, this is the simplest way to go about it for me. You can also name the bios files anything you want so that you know what they are when in XBlast. Once the bios is in the Bios folder on C, I navigate through the menu to "Launch Pure XBlast." (I'll post more specific navigation instructions when I get home.) This launches the standalone, unscripted version of XBlastOS. I just go into the flashing tools section, find the bios file I want to flash which is already freshly copied over to C:/bios/ and let XBlast do its thing! Simple, painless and awesome. There are also many automated/scripted procedures for this tool and many bioses to choose from, if you need something other than the newest version of Cerbios. There are lots of ways it can be used. I am posting the 32MB version, since it is the most comprehensive and useful. The 8MB version is available in the fichier folder that Sweet posted. DarkDestiny, Thank you very much for creating this tool and for sharing it with the community. Your work is very thorough and powerful and I use it with lots of projects of mine. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fichier Folder : https://1fichier.com/dir/oXIMz61T Mega Mirror: https://mega.nz/file/ZjF3EarT#qRyBz7AOIDMO77wbPrXiyj43nwBQYKMZKyvue-1tAMw --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- There is also an XBlast-only version which utilizes the same exploit. You will immediately boot to xblast and you can HTTP flash from your PC, which is also a quick way of doing things! https://mega.nz/file/FqVjHIhD#MKTgY-fJMfEUuv3jmrBmvMbCYRCdGqHehrQq-YweMVg https://www.xbox-scene.info/forums/topic/379-xblastos-4-game-exploids/#comment-696 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am only able to offer help with using the tool. If you have technical questions, or need support, DarkDestiny can be best reached on Xbox-Scene. It is his software and he will be able to answer any questions you have. I will still try to help anybody as much as I possibly can! DarkDestiny's Xbox-Scene thread: https://www.xbox-scene.info/forums/topic/397-ogxbox-xblastos-mcusb-tsop-flasher/#comment-720

For what it's worth I DID burn all the discs and they work, some even burned at 10X. So unless they corrupted in between my download from fichier and my upload to Mega, I would say you either have a corrupt download or bad burn.

Okay. I was gonna say, it looks almost like a TSOP hardwired to the board. Do you happen to know what this chip is being used? EDIT: Oh you posted it. Nevermind and thank you!

I wanted to point tout that when heatsinks and the adhesive are that hard to remove, what's being used is likely thermal GLUE, not just paste. Meant to keep that heatsink there no matter what happens! It comes in handy when you don't have a way to clamp the heatsink down in some situations, like the CPU upgrade for this console.

Did you get a good copy going?