coldasijs

does it play psx well? Or do you need to 128mb and cpu mod to get decent performance? I have also a modded PS3 which I could use for the same purpose, but disk space is full and it has a hard limit of 1TB. Only added benefit of iso is not having to deal with the dvdmueller thing. I don’t enough disk space to process everything in one go, so had download to my nas, copy files to my pc to extract the iso and ftp everything over to the xbox. I have to redo this another time again because some games are corrupted, probably caused by the ftp-ing. And yeah I realized too late I could just take out the disk and copy directly via usb-sata connector.

What would you actually want to put on there ? I don’t even own 8tb of data I think. Maybe if I add all my games for XBOX, PS3,4 and 5 I might come close… anyway nice that you can put 8TB in an XBOX. Is there anything known already about the ISO support? Is it the standard iso or is it xiso? Would be great to just download the games directly from a well known location which stores a lot of internet data directly to the XBOX.

Sega does not have a region lock chip. It uses different shapes for the cardridge slot. You need to file away some plastic pieces to make it region free. 2nd thing is that they have hardwired jumpers on the pcb to control language and region. Technically you should also replace a clock so it runs at the correct frequency of 59.94. I don’t the exact number but it was something like 59.8 hz when you switch your PAL console to NTSC without replacing the clock. Making it region free is really easy, just requires you to cut some traces and to solder a couple of wires. Some people use switches to toggle between the options. I use an arduino and switch region/language with the reset button

@Bowlsnapper faster as in speed not only framerate. So also the music is faster. Everything is linked to the clock speed video chip. So a lot of games run better on NTSC consoles edit here is a video with a comparison https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WzoyF70Jkho

Does SNES really have separate for SNES and PAL? There is no setting in the emulator for PAL/NTSC? Reason for asking is that I know that on SEGA most ROMs are multiregion. For example SONIC runs 20% faster on NTSC consoles when using the same cartridge on a genesis vs EU megadrive. There are only a handful region locked in SW, Streets of rage/bare knuckles is probably the most famous one. You can also make the console region free with a soldering iron and a Arduino nano. So I wouldn’t be surprised if nintendo applied the same tactic.

I was using a pound cable for both my sega MD and the XBOX (and future n64). It is not great for the Sega, highlights are clipping. Also adds some input delay(1-2 frames). This week my retrotink 5x arrived. First of all it looks so much better, and noticed games just run a tad better due to lack of input delay. Now waiting on the XBOX component HD cables (modded X360 component cable). Can’t wait to use my xbox with the retrotink. Should also make the interlaced games run great. I was also considering the HDMI mod, but it’s just a bit more the I was willing to shell out. Chimeric cable waitlist is too long, I’m still nr 1200 or something after 3 months. Didn’t want to wait a year to get some improvements. the retrotink cost obviously much more then a HDMI mod. But if you have multiple retro consoles than it can also be a solid solution.

Naah it’s pretty straightforward for me, but I’ve been messing around with pc’s since windows 3.1 But simply formatting directly under windows or linux would be easier for me at least. @amak79 although the 40 wire works, it doesn’t offer reliable operation. You can expect to start seeing issues, for example XBOX not booting or games hanging etc… Standard 80 wire is usually not long enough for proper routing. There are a few longer ones on the market. Chimeric systems offers a replacement cable with the proper length and connector orientation. https://chimericsystems.com/products/custom-xbox-ide-cable

@sweetdarkdestiny can it be that the problem is simply a lack of a file system is causing the problem? Because I don’t see this issue happening for everyone. Makes me wonder if just formatting it to fat32 would also work to get past the bootloop problem. Formatting it to fat32 is easier then installing fatxplorer.

Had similar issue when upgrading my HDD to SSD. Problem is that your HDD is not recognized by the XBOX because it is not formatted correctly. The xbox gets then stuck in a bootloop, reading the dvd over and over again. First format the drive to FATX using fatxplorer on your pc/laptop. The tool is part of the ogxbox installer iso set. One disk contains some useful tools. If this doesn’t work try to replace the startech ide adapter under warranty. They have a tendency to break down DOA/DOI. But this should give different issues if I’m not mistaken, you should get the service error on screen. So I’m pretty confident it is just a matters of pre formatting the drive prior to installing

Just checked mgs2 is indeed 4:3 only https://en.everybodywiki.com/List_of_Xbox_games_with_alternate_display_modes try switching the console 4:3 output

I had the same issue with doubling on my LG OLED with Beyond good and evil. Not sure if I fixed it, I was just testing it quickly after installing an SSD. I think it got fixed with changing the output from 16:9 back to 4:3, beyond good and evil is 4:3 only. Can it be that mgs2 issldo 4:3 only?

It’s a 1.6, so clock cap is not a concern.

Hi Alcatraz, the first picture is taken in the wrong place. The chip should be on the left. You should definitely clean your XBOX . I'm definitely not an electrical expert by any means but it looks like one of the caps is bulging (the middle one in the row of 3 on the left). This is a sign that it ready break. Maybe good to take a look at all your caps first. I recently upgraded my XBOX. I used the OGXBOX installer 2021. It comes with a few handy tool, not sure if it is better or worse. First thing is that you need to arrange the HW - SATA HDD - IDE to SATA adapter (startech works, but there are probably a few others out there) - 80 wire IDE cable First make sure your modchip has the latest bios that supports bigger HDD. There are bioses available that have features like bigger HDD, no DVD and forced 480P enabled. I would first connect the HDD to a computer to format it using FATXplorer. OGXBOX installer has the tool bundelled with the how to install. For me this was needed because I couldn't format it directly on the XBOX. Then install HDD in XBOX and boot the Hexen or XBOX installer DVD. You can choose to reformat it once more, not sure if it is really needed. Anyway use the installer to install your dashboard.

@SS_Dave thanks, your pics are really helpful. I also took a look on JBLPCB and damn these prices are low. If I compare it to a company in the Netherlands I pay about double if I take only 1 board then what it would cost me in shipping on JBLPCB alone. The boards are like 30 cents each if I order 5. This makes me reconsider the Teensy option as I can get the board + parts for ~30 euro's give or take. I know another person that might be interested, so I can at least offload 1 board and parts. Do you mind sharing the design from bracket in the 2nd picture? And which USB cables did you use?

@LampreyI’m in the same boat. Also looking for the OGX360i. Already contacted the usual suspects, but they all stopped at least for now. Making it myself would be too expensive/much work. I decided to go the OGX360-t4 route. It is relatively straightforward, would cost me slightly more for 2 controllers but without the hassle of soldering and getting all parts etc. I don’t think I ever need more the 2 controllers. @SS_Dave how did you mod the controller port so it accepts usb? I would love to replace the front controller ports with USB ports. I’m struggling a bit on the how, because I want to keep everything original. I was thinking on printing a replacement part for the bit which is holding the current controller ports. I was planning to use this usb connectors. But I’m not a mechanical engineer nor do I have a 3d printer. I probably need a few iterations which would make it a bit of a hassle. Other option would be to make a cable where I connect the white connector of the current port and to use the usb adapters from chimeric. I still haven’t found a female connector for the white connector.

Turned on the xbox, started to work again. Was think it might have been the ide cable all along. Swapped it with an 80 wire, tested some games and resetting to the dash a few times to see if it would overheat. Temps stayed nice below 60. After the 2nd reset the dash wouldn’t load nicely, I was missing a lot of games. Reboot gave a flashing red/green light. So swapped the ide-sata adapter, and it is running fine now. One minor thing I found is that if the box is closed to tight that the fan cannot turn over. So also the cause for the overheating is found. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer thanks for the help

Thanks, learned something new today I just received a message that a replacement sata to ide adapter is already on its way. In the meantime I also ordered a new IDE cable, this time it's 24 inch, hopefully the extra length will make routing it a bit easier

@KaosEngineer XBOX is a 1.6b hardmodded with the apple X. I contacted the company who sold me the IDE adapter, hopefully they can send me a new one pretty fast. Do we understand why the 80 wire is needed for sata hdd? Does it have to do with SATA just putting more data over the cable and when you add the dvd it get’s overloaded during booting? I have the no-dvd bios, don’t know if changes anything.

Off course testing the IDE adapter in reverse will not work because I don't have SATA male cables for it to work. I'm making a backup of my games and will see if formatting the drive works

I think my XBOX overheated last night while playing Max Payne. The xbox crashed and a flashing orange light was visible. The power button did not respond at all. What happened is that I just installed a newly printed case on the startech ide adapter. After putting it together I decided to startup a game. First thing I noticed was how silent it was and I was actually wondering if the fan was even turning. 5 min later it crashed. After letting it cool for some time it doesn’t want to boot anymore. I get red/green light flashing after a few seconds. I connected the SSD to a pc and I can access it without issues wit fatxplorer, was affraid that me pulling the cable out might have damaged the SSD. It doesn’t want to boot to ogxbox installer dvd with SSD connected, but everything works fine with original HDD. The ogxbox installer gets into some bootloop, teal logo is visible and disk makes noise every few seconds. Different HDD gives same problem, it was not formatted to fatx because it contained valuable data. So basically there can be a few things wrong: ide adapter bad, ide cable all of the sudden needs to be a 80 pin or somehow the boot partition got corrupted. I should be able to test startech ide connector by connecting it to my pc via sata with original HDD (ide) right? so basically the reverse from what I do on the xbox. What is the best way to rule out the SSD? I prefer not to format it again, as I spend hours and hours copying/unpacking all the games. The unpacking part I can skip btw now. Is there anything else I need to check?

For me the 40 way cable works great on a 1.6b. I can still run stuff from the DVD drive. I did install the EVOX_M8 forced 480P no DVD bios (512 kb version), can it also be a bios thingy?

@imalittleturt I put the jumper on Cable select. This is how it was set on my original HDD

@sweetdarkdestiny formatting did the trick. Thanks a lot for the help. While closing the Xbox I destroyed my 80pin cable . Luckily the 40 pin worked still fine. It’s also better solution in the end because it has the right length and orientation. Now busy with the game copying process. I downloaded the redump files which wasn’t too smart as this requires some work to get the files copied, aah wel fun Saturday evening activity

@sweetdarkdestiny @SS_Dave thanks for the quock response. I managed to install the 256 and 512kb bios. Afterwards I get indeed a teal colored logo. I can still boot the old HDD, on both the 40 and 80 pin. I can connect the SSD to my pc, so it looks like the sata-ide connector might be the problem. Can I safely connect any HDD to the XBOX without it being wiped? Otherwise I can pull out a hdd from my pc to test

Hi all, I’m trying to replace the stock HDD with a 1TB SSD(samsung 870 QVO). I have a 1.6b xbox with an Apple X IV pro. First thing I did was flashing the TSOP bios with 512 kb version of evox bios with forced 480p and no DVD from ogxbox installer 2021. After connecting SSD with 80 pin IDE + startech ide to sata and starting up I see the new boot animation with light blue logo. The DVD however seems to get stuck in some infinite read loop. The old HDD does still boot to the ogbox menu from the DVD. I can also connect and read the ssd with usb connector. Tried to format to exfat and still the same issue. Tried 256 kb Evox bios, same problem. I’m probably missing something obviously or the startech ife to sata is broken. Any pointers are welcome