sweetdarkdestiny

Well, if he flashes the TSOP and don't remove the softmod, he end up with a black screen. So, at least he would need to setup C&E to get rid of the softmod.

I plan on buying a Aqueduct 240 for the XBox 360 Jasper Kronos w. RGH3 and Koolance water blocks which I have sitting around here for quit a wile. Pic : https://imgur.com/a/SRQ00g6

A Aqua-Computer Aquaduct or Alphacool Eiswand would be a nice external option.

Here you can find a mirror for the latest versions of Cerbios. Cebios folder @ 1fichier: https://1fichier.com/dir/L5ujxA2o Cerbios folder @ Mega: https://mega.nz/folder/lV8gjKYD#z8EfFTnK7bB9UYAzc87ciw For qustions, talk and such please use the topic from@ShinGoutetsu linked below and keep this topic clean. I will post update infos here as soon as a new version become available. And please, no thanks posting here to make it super easy for all to find update infos and links right away without the need to scroll/read 20 pages. If you like to say thanks, please use the thanks button for that. THANK YOU!

Because I have a good day here is a bios for your 1.0 (64MB) : https://1fichier.com/?y11gv3kdmwyjpqve1ifj (M8plus F&G noDVD). Maybe next time just ask for the bios you are searching for. Ohh well sry, you didn't asked for advice and not for this bios so again sry. Shame on me.....

Why would someone do that? There is no benefit. And it will not show you 128MB in any app or dash without having a ram upgrade.

Works fine. You just need a good SATA2IDE converter. Here is a topic where @SaturnX used his EvoX UDMA4/UDMA5 bios with OpenXeninium and Startech adapter :

PENCE & XBox = NONONONONONO. And for good reading No No No. Just No!

It's an "Apple-X" v1.0 or 1.1, depenig on the version of XBox (Apple-X v2.0 could also be possible which works on both 1.0/1.1. Not to sure though whats the difference between those 3 revisions). The chip it self shlould be flashable right away since it didn't has a write enable/disable option.

PM' send

Browsing this dudes YT page I found this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6HwF47BGZw How he replaces the caps is like watching a Saw movie. Unbelivable that this guy has store. Cudos though, he use a soldering iron instead of a blow torch.

It is so easy to remove these clamps. Why does this bear of a man needs a screw driver? (Link : https://youtu.be/LRIBuIjkoyE ) * Disclaimer: If you are a wood worker, this technic may not work for you.

The main point is that you can flash a winbond TSOP only if the bios is named bios.bin. And since I don't like to put every bios with the release name and as bios bin on a disc, I decided to do it always as bios.bin in a folder bios. And it keeps the C:\Bios folder pretty clean. When I unpack a bios to C it will be always overwritten which I like. Finaly, for the Installer and Flasher in the next version, there will be also be a bios-info.txt in the C:\bios folder. That way you always now which bios in in that folder. And when it comes to an installer you just need 1 line of code. If you do it with the release name, you need more lines which simply blow up the configs which is needless. And finaly, I don't care for what Heimdall or ToxicMedz has done with HeXEn/TruHeXEn and why. They do it the way they like to do and so do I. I'm not forced to use HeXEn and no one is forced to use "my Installer/Flasher". Like I wrote above, for the next release of the Installer/Flasher every bios will have an bios-info.txt file included in C:\bios to keep track. And every time you unrar a new bios the entire C:\bios folder will get overwritten with the new files. (Side note, if you would do it with copy, rename you would also need delete which just blow up the flasher configs instead of a simple "unrar" and done. (Sadly unleash didn't overwrites an existing bios.bin if the file name of the new one is the same). And you can find out what this "bios.bin" is and even a future user can by checking the MD5. I also update the EvoX ini's with the MD5 sums and the BiosChecker app. So by simply checking the MD5 and reading the ini's you could find out. And to take that a step further there is also a TXT file which contains all MD5 sums of all bios.bin files. Example : ********************************************************************** EvoX m8+ F+G noDVD (256kb): Bios MD5 (bios.bin) : 0efad8b298ecdca019e925210ce740e9 Rar MD5 (EvoXm8pND.rar) : 8a56266463aa1e26c14cddb5a296b76e ********************************************************************** EvoX m8+ F+G yesDVD (256kb): Bios MD5 (bios.bin) : 746d4564e658bae9eb2e1dc832e6878f Rar MD5 (EvoXm8pYD.rar) : 62c60f747cbf7a5d89f7b25836e8b967 ********************************************************************** EvoX m8+ F+G Force 480p noDVD (256kb): Bios MD5 (bios.bin) : 4fc6dff2f331dd2e624ac4d3a593232e Rar MD5 (EvoXm8pND480p.rar) : 3a1ba489aa53abe9aed38dbd14bc6ba5 ********************************************************************** How ever. To end this, here are the untouched XBINS scene files. https://1fichier.com/?2tddgwhmef3vgush75e2 https://mega.nz/file/RZ9EgT6b#YXFAeQcsyhMndT227681lRMyXjbi3b2XWmk4zruQsko

Well, check the folders: Cerbios V2.2.0 Beta (MAIN FOLDER) Cerbios Hybrid V2.20 BETA UDMA2 (SUB FOLDER 1) 256kb (SUB FOLDER 2/1) bios (SUB FOLDER 3/1) bios.bin 512kb (SUB FOLDER 2/2) bios (SUB FOLDER 3/2) bios.bin 1024kb (SUB FOLDER 2/3) bios (SUB FOLDER 3/3) bios.bin Same layout for UDMA4 and UDMA5. The main reason is that you can use these right away with XBlast and the Winbond TSOP. And it makes my life easier when adding these to the OGXBox USB Flasher and the OGXBox Installer. So there is no need to copy a file, rename it blablabla. Just unrar to C:\ and done. And if you don't like it, you are free to download the original pack from XBins.

And like always.... Cerbios Xbox Bios V2.2.0 BETA Released (1.0 - 1.6) The pack contains UDMA2/4/5 and each as 256kb/512kb/1024kb already packed in a folder "bios" and renamed to "bios.bin" so it's ready to flash. https://1fichier.com/?5iqzwqg3yxoq4x5w1s9q https://mega.nz/file/8EsUkJQK#0vYAfsSHidOznVSBTTggql_8-mNhwEkR4Rre4wbIvNE Have fun.

Looks like a HyperX to me. SpiderChip 1.0/1.1

Sounds like you do not have a LBA48 patched FG bios.

You should not try to repair this. Where are you located? If you are in the EU, I could send you a 1.0/1.1 PSU. You would just need to pay for shipping.

Which he should avoid since these mostly use fake flash chips now days.

Depends on what you want/need. Aladdin-Xblast or the Jafar are some "cheaper" options.

12 is a DVD drive problem and 7 is HDD related (HDD time out). I would open her up and check the IDE cable. Maybe it came loose.

I personally use Verbertim DVD-R. Only the Samsung 605B seems to have some problems ( https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:DVDROM ). And like coldasijs wrote, use ImageBurn and burn the iso slow as possible. I use 4x speed and never had a problem but if you can burn it 1x speed you are more or less on the save side. Cold boot means you put the dvd in your drive an power the xbox off and then back on with the dvd already in your drive. And when using the OGXBox Installer it provides the option to just setup C+E so you can keep the games you already have on F/G.

There was no reason to softmod since you have a modchip installed. And that is the reason you get stuck on boot. The Softmod and hardmod didn't play well together. Download a installer dvd like OGXBox Installer, TruHexen ect. and cold boot the installer and set up your HDD again with it. After that your XBox should boot up just fine. And the chip you see is a LPC-Mod / Cheap-Mod. It's flashable with XBlastOS/EvoX. It's a 256kb flash chip. Your XBox is a 1.2 or 1.3 (Conexant video encoder and 256kb ST TSOP).

No but I can tell you if I would do it, it and I would life 200 years, I would still work. Main reason is because I didn't played any game in over 2 years and don't realy feel to play and but that wasn't the qustion. How ever. 2 TB SSD's are around 90-110 bucks so not that much. And if you think about SSD's in PC's which get used daily with a lot more read writes which still work after 10 years, what do you think how long will it survive in your XBox? But if it's worth it for you - I can't tell. If you want to sqeeze out the last bit of speed then it's a SATA converter with marvel controller and a SSD and UDMA5 bios. You could just get a cheap old 120gb SDD (samsung for example) for a couple of bucks on ebay and find out if you like it or not and how much speed you gain.

WD greens have head pariking. Disable it and it should speed up your boot. And it also comes down to the SATA adapter you use. SATA adapter with Marvel controller boot and load way faster as the ones with JM oder these other no name chips. I have one converter here which is slow as hell and even slower when a dvd drive is connectet.