TheCodeMan Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 I have a Halo Edition 1.4 softmodded XBox that I'm trying to upgrade with a SATA drive. I bought a couple of the Kingwin adapters and I've tried about 6 different SATA drives with no luck. I've tried using both Hexen 2017 and Slayer to no avail. I've tried different 40 pin and 80 pi cables, pretty much changed out everything. Of the six drives I tested, I got one to format all the way through using Hexen but it will not boot the Xbox, just gives the standard error. I did lock the drive and backup the eeprom. I worked all day on this Sunday and frankly I'm about to throw in the towel. It's so painful trying to get new tech to work with old tech. I'm just looking for a little guidance, perhaps something simple I missed. Also, is the a tut for removing the battery / clock capacitor? BTW, as a last resort I do have a Startech adapter on order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) The easiest way to get a new SATA drive working is to use Chimp 261812 to clone the original HDD to the new larger SATA drive. You need to power both the original and new HDD/adapter combo with a Molex Y-power splitter when the console boots. The KingWin ADP-06 adapter cannot be used to clone the HDD as it has no jumper to change from MASTER to SLAVE device on the IDE bus. The StarTech adapter does and during cloning, set it to SLAVE. Once the HDD is cloned, you will need to use an 80-wire 40-pin IDE cable for reliable SATA HDD operation. The KingWin ADP-06 adapter can be used at this point since the HDD needs to be the MASTER device on the IDE bus. Also, remember to lock the HDD before exiting Chimp. Edited October 9, 2018 by KaosEngineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kekule Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) I've never had a kingwin that worked right., that jumper is to change directions not master/slave, my dumb ass has had to return three or four of those over the years for this reason. use the startech, they work great. Edited October 9, 2018 by Kekule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCodeMan Posted October 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 @KaosEngineer Thanks, that's exactly the concise info I was looking for. I swear I've scoured a dozed sites looking for the specifics, and there's always one little bit of info missing. I think you hit the nail on the head with that explanation and I can't wait to get the Startech adapter in and try again. I knew something was amiss with the Kingwin, when trying to figure out how to set master slave. I couldn't even find any docs on the Kingwin, even from their own website. I found out the jumper settings from a Google image. @Kekule Thanks for the prompt response. I'm guessing I'll have better luck with the Startech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlorn Penguin Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, TheCodeMan said: is the a tut for removing the battery / clock capacitor? No tutorial necessary. Just gently wiggle it around until the pins snap, then break it off. Afterwards, clean the leakage up on the board with isopropyl alcohol. Edited October 9, 2018 by Forlorn Penguin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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