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This is a little project I worked on from October 2024 to January 2025 with help from Skye and HoneySoakedSegull. Original idea by Siktah (he had been nagging me about this for a year). Before anyone comments or asks, yes this just transfers the solder skill requirement from the repair person to the board assembler/merchant. This isn't something everyone needs, and I think it's rather pointless, as I just do my own trace repairs. That being said; not everyone has precision soldering equipment, not everyone has fantastic magnification to do their solder work, and not everyone has the effort for traditional front panel trace fixes. Without further ado I present Hugin and Munin trace fix cards and the D0-ET board. Siktah and I entered these as an exhibition entry into Xbox-Scene Modfest 2024: https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles/xbox-scene-modfest-2024-celebrating-homebrew-innovation-and-the-modding-scene-for-xbox-xbox-360-xbox-one-and-xbox-series-x-r54/ The boards are to be used in pairs, 1x Hugin (A) board and 1x Munin (B) board per repair. all 1.0 and 1.1 boards use one set of boards, all 1.2-1.6 boards use a different set. They require a 25cm ish 0.5mm pitch, 4-pin flex cable to jump between the two boards, and you only enable the trace repairs you require on the Munin (B) board. The flex connector must be folded 90 degrees one time to for the contacts to like up correctly. The red front panel LED is the least likely trace to fail, but it also doesn't have nearby "friendly" test points either. So a wire going from the RED pad on the B board to an alternate test point on the motherboard will be required. Unfortunately some boards don't have an easy to solder test point for the Red LED, so it may be easiest to solder right to the SMC. I am currently writing up install instructions and gathering fresh board images for every board rev. Here are some early "quick and dirty" images for 1.4 and 1.6: I made the FPC connectors quite large to support a huge variety of connectors, though I do include documentation on the bottom of each PCB for the needed resistors and a compatible FPC connector. You can also use top only, bottom only, or top+bottom FPC connectors as long as you use a "reverse direction" flex cable with one set of contacts on the top, and one set of contacts on the bottom if you use top or bottom only FPC connectors. As an added bonus, EqUiNoX repeatedly requested a simple, multifunction D0 board. So alongside Hugin and Munin I designed D0-ET as part of this set. Aside from protecting your D0 point from accidental damage from pulling on a wire the D0-ET (pronounced duet) has 3 possible functions: grounding out the D0 point directly giving a larger pad to solder to, to connect to a modchip with a simple D0 pad like an OpenXenium, ModXo boards, or an X2 / X3 wire harness giving a JST-SH 1.0mm 2-pin connector to connect directly to a modchip like Xenium Ice, Xenium Gold, or various ModXo boards An earlier (less well fitting) revision of this board can be seen installed on the 1.4 motherboard picture above. I am finally learning more about git and specifically github with the release of the Skeleton Key branded USB adapters (based of xbox7887's USB adapter, with support, permission and an overly permissive license). https://github.com/OGXHarcroft/Xbox-Skeleton-Key-USB-Adapter The gerbers for all 5 of these boards are already on the Xbox-Scene discord in the Modfest channel as of roughly 6 months ago and some sellers have already started selling them. Hugin and Munin FP Trace Fix boards are also coming soon to a github near you!
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Has anyone seen a xenon mfg 2011. From what I read online it's very unlikely. But I have it. No hdmi 12v 16.5a Never opened and label reads 2011. I finally opened it up. 5 caps are blown so I will replace those . But is this unicorn worth anything?
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I need some help repairing my original Xbox. I got an error 07 and got a new hard drive as I found this mod chip attached and was following some guides. I burnt a disk with Hexen and tried to run it but I still get a 07. I'm unsure what this mod chip actually is and can't find a solution to get my Xbox fixed. Any help whatsoever would be appreciated.
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Hi everyone, this has me in a permanently befuddled state and I hope you mad scientists can help if I'm missing something obvious. I bought this Aladdin XT clone from eBay with two others. Those worked fine and they're long gone to good homes. This one however, has an odd problem. I've been able to get it to boot on several not-1.6 consoles, but I can't get it to boot on any 1.6. I've tested it with a 1.0, 1.4 and my own personal 1.1. It was loaded with EvoX and booted fine. So I put it in a 1.6 and it would FRAG. Wouldn't even boot my Hexen CD. I put it back in my 1.1 and flashed it with the 1.6 version of EvoX. Standard ecc 256k. It confirmed the flash was successful, so I tried putting it back in the 1.6 console. Still FRAGged. I figured my LPC rebuild wasn't solid. Rechecked the solder points and tried booting an OpenXenium chip...that booted just fine. Am I missing something? Thanks all!
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I finally got to dig out my old black case machine I have. I would like to play Forza Motorsport again, but might run is as media server also. I am aware that the capacitor may be leaky and dead. Assuming it is salvageable, I would like to connect it to my Nvidia display port monitor I have for pc, maybe also needs a KVM setup for other machines. Whats a nice quality connection, do I have to solder a 360 cable as I have seen others do? I can probably handle the through hole parts ok, but not processor sockets! Hard drive and bios flashing should be straightforward enough. Is there anyone in Great Britain who can perform CPU upgrades and so on?
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Hello. In my setup I have daisy-chain setup with 480i-PVM and OSSC, and an all-SCART setup with SCART-switcher. No component. Xbox 1.2 and Contexant. Basically I'd like to use it like on PS2: there for 480p thru SCART it uses RGsB (Sync on Green) and I don't need to switch to component cables for it. I'm trying to figure out if Xbox can do the same. Info on this is too scattered: something about VGA, something about modding the board itself but links is dead already, something Xbox ONE (very wise naming). Can't make sense of it. For now I've wired typical RGB and mode 1+3 and in Cerbios.ini I've forced VGA. Got green light but PVM or OSSC don't pickup any signal. Btw if set to 1+2+3 RGB is working, cable is good. Maybe I need to use H-/V-syncs somehow? Wire them both to Sync in SCART?
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Hi there everyone so anyways I’m just wondering, is there a recommended way of programming on the Xbox in 2025? I know a little bit about c programming and sdl2 programming but for simple applications. So can anyone recommend some suggestions of programming for the Xbox? -
Hey yall I have a hd44780 lcd And a arduino pro micro Wired to open xenium without spi2par board. It boots and lcd is on and the arduino is programmed. There is no characters and no control of backlight or contrast through any dash board. Has anyone installed lcd with pro micro and no spi2par board to open xenium? From what I understand on githubs ox lcd repository it can be done and I followed wiring instructions. Any help would be appreciated
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Hello together, I received a new xbox with following Problems. it automaticaly turns on when lt la plugged ln Error code 5 Sometimes there it does boot into the dashboard Xbox does have a modchip, but l can’t identify which one it is. How can I repair/fix this issue. Already saw one wire is broken, will try to fix it. -
Hi all, I was given this power supply and I can´t find much information online about it. I need to know more before I connect it to the power outlet because i don´t want to break it! I did saw some topics and pictures on the forum from people in the UK who had the same "TUSCANY" Branded PSU. so if UK is 230v then i wanted to know if mine is also 230v I want to know the following: 1) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY only found in Europe with 230volts or there is a TUSCANY version for USA 110v? 2) is the TUSCANY POWER SUPPLY dual voltage? 110v and 230v ? 2) my power supply (pictures below) ... I have no clue if it is 110v or 230v, does anyone know? 3) if my power supply is a UK power supply for 1.6 revision of OGXbox motherboard,can it work also on a USA 1.6 motherboard? 4) my power supply (pictures below) at first looked like untouched, but after looking at some pictures online I have he feeling that 3 capacitors were replaced. because from the pictures i saw, from factory, they place a red dot on top of the capacitor, but mine has no dots( I have marked the 3 caps in circles, i believe were replaced and provided what they used as replacement, does anyone know the UF and voltage of the original caps?)
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I hit the right thumbstick and it pulls up a menu that says "Exit game" but once you hit that option there's nothing to go directly back to Emustation; but only to restart the Xbox back to the dashboard. Am I missing something? -
You want custom power on/off/eject sounds on your Xbox Og Console? Credit goes out to Element18592 for the Sonus Clone: https://github.com/Element18592/360-Sonus-Clone Credit to me for finding the install points on the Xbox Og Credit and Huge thanks to the homie Fuel who made most of these sounds - I made quite a few myself = More packs coming soon Sonus Pack 1: https://www.mediafire.com/file/9ealfxr2x0m6cn8/Sonus1.rar/file I recommend a JR Programmer to flash the sounds to the Phat Sonus Clone (Pico flasher is very un-stable) The Xonus requires 4 wires to be soldered in: 3v3 and Ground: These can be pulled from anywhere on mobo or psu Power and Eject: You can tap in directly to behind the power eject pcb or on motherboard Here are the points behind the power eject board: (Red is Power, White is Eject) Jrunner is used to program sounds, I use a JRprogrammer to flash sounds and a pico as well (Pico can be finicky yet if works its way faster) The Sonus Sound ic has very little memory so you are limited but you can squeeze in 3 sounds sometimes = Power on/Power Off/Eject whoa-thats-clean-Master-Chief.mp3 fuck-around-find-out-101soundboards.mp3
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I'm working on my second original Xbox (version 1.6) motherboard, trying to install a mod chip. Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue as with my first attempt. After completing the installation, the console refuses to power on. I've removed the mod chip, yet the console still won't turn on. Even after disconnecting all wires, there's no response. However, power is reaching the board—the LED on the mod chip lights up when plugged into the header socket. With my first motherboard, I used an LPC board, whereas on this second one, I opted for direct wiring. I'm confident my wiring and soldering are correct. The mod chip I'm using is the Aladdin XT Plus 2. Could the mod chip be causing this issue? It's the only constant between both attempts. But if the chip were the problem, why wouldn’t the console power on even after its removal? I'd really like to understand what's going on. At this point, I'm considering buying a pre-modded 1.6 motherboard with a chip installed. If anyone knows where I can find one, that would be much appreciated.
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i'm tired of this noisy little fan on a 1.0 xbox. i have tried searching for a different heatsink to buy but, cannot find any. does anyone know where i can find them? -
Hi guys, I am looking buy the Ruby Red Xbox preferably NOT modded but modded is fine. I am NOT looking for just the shell, I am looking for a working Xbox.
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I recently modded twelve consoles for a gaming bar. All of them are using Xenium chips, Cerbios, and have XBMC4Gamers dashboards. The owner of the bar was complaining that the consoles will shut off after a few hours of being idle. Basically he's got them on any given game screen just idle non-stop until somebody plays them. They're not overheating since they have new paste and nexus silent fans with the fans set at 75% at all times. I was curious is there a setting to shut down the console after it's idle for a certain amount of time or something I can go and change for him?
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Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with an original xbox that will turn on, with a solid green light for a second, then turn itself off. Then back on with an orange blinking light, then turn itself off and on again until finally staying on with a blinking orange light with it's fan running 100% speed, this would indicate some sort of FRAG and some other issue. Unlike other times in that situation where it's normally a temperature sensor failing where it will shut down, this doesn't turn off. The power button doesn't seem to have any effect after turning on. Holding does nothing. It's a 1.1 revision board. The temperature sensor area is clean with minimal clock cap leakage, and the Xbox is otherwise tidy. It's got an xecuter x2 lite. Disabling via the switch on the front panel to the chip does nothing. Soldering looks tidy. I notice there's no D0 grounding underneath. There is a wire directly from the chip to ground though. Where to from here? Should I put on a D0 and see if that changes anything. Should I then remove the chip and see if we're able to boot if the first step doesn't help?
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recently purchased a broken 1.1v xbox from ebay. it had never been opened before and the problem was just that the foxcon psu had it's common failure where solder joints break. however, the person that owned the xbox apparently tried hard to pry the disc tray open to get their game out. since no game was left in the tray, they appear to have been successful. when this dvd player is connected to the xbox, i get an error 7. when i connect another dvd player to it, the xbox works fine. so my question is, based on what happened, what could they have messed up inside the the dvd player that the xbox cannot even see it? it is a samsung drive so it probably worth trying to fix.
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Welcome to the OGXbox community! We're excited to have you join us. Take a moment to introduce yourself and share your journey with the original Xbox. What was your first game? What are your fondest memories of the OG Xbox? Are you a collector, modder, or simply a passionate fan? Let's get to know each other! -
Call me old fashioned, but this is still a genuinely good setup to this day. Made a purpose built Xbox setup on my bedroom TV for watching movies in bed. I ripped a bunch of my DVD boxsets and movies 1:1 remux quality and copied them onto the HDD, it plays real nicely with the 128mb RAM. Takes quite a bit of setting up and fine tuning. Screws are still out because I intend on getting a bigger HDD, 500gb wasn't enough. I'll take this over a streaming service or a smart TV any day! 1.4 128mb RAM Cerbios Component cables Modified eeprom to do NTSC at 480p (was originally PAL) This all came about because I did a 128mb mod out of boredom and didn't know what to do with it after the fact lol. In the end it turned out to be a great idea
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Just repaired a 1.6b that had a blown RAM bank 2. This is my first ever 1.6b I've worked on. Usually with FRAO systems there's a good reason for a RAM to die and it's usually a thick layer of once damp dust messing with things. But this time the motherboard was fairly clean. Since this is my first 1.6b I don't have a record of common faults like I do with the others. Do Hynix RAM chips commonly go bad?
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Recently sourced this Xbox from Japan, thought i'd show it off here! Numbered 735 out of 1000, and has "Kazutoshi 5 Shimizu" etched into it. -
i got one of those xedusa hdmi adapters for my xboxs today. the picture is the best i have ever seen on my 1.6 but, the wavy lines are horrible on my 1.4. i'm strongly considering removing the hard mod and hdd from my 1.4 and modding another xbox. the 1.6 has the issues with displaying some games in 480p and the 1.4 has the wavy line issue that no one seems to really be able to figure out and fix. so, between the 1.0-1.3, which is the best xbox to mod? i'm looking for the most relaible and the best video/audio quality.
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Hi,Im building a Rework station with arduino mega2560 + ramps 1.4 using marlin firmware. I have a problem, i want to use PS3 Controller to control stepper motors and i don't find anywhere how to use PS3 controller with marlin firmware, i only found about lcd + encoder, but i really want to try PS3 controller to control the x,y-axis. Does anyone have experience with this? -
I have a strange issue in my set up. I have my OG Xbox (OpenXenium, PrometheOS, Cerbios, Xbmc4Gamers) connected to a RetroTINK 4k using a component cable. I made this component myself from a Xbox 360 component cable and OG Xbox AV connector (actually I made two of them). When I turn on the RetroTINK 4K and turn on the OG Xbox the audio volume is very low. But no distortion is persent, not in the video nor in the audio. When I reseat the AV connector on the Xbox side the volume is on a normal level. When I connect the Xbox using the same cable directly to a TV, the volume is always on a normal level. I have the same issue with two component cables. Today I finished recapping my Xbox, with no luck. Anyone knows how to fix this?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48