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I create ROM Hack for original xbox game but it require to patch 29 file! Xdelta and others they only patch 1 file *Note my game is HDD rip (files) not iso

On to my next project. This is the 1.4 board that came from the 1.6 Halo console. It's why I transplanted. This is the shell that the 1.6 was in. I can not get it to boot with video. It'll even flash green and orange without the AV cable plugged in, but when it's plugged in? Nothing. One time. I got video output ONE TIME for no apparent reason. Got the green blubber and everything. Couldn't believe it. Next boot, nothing. Just a green light. I found a lot of bugs in this case for some reason and they may have caused a short... I'm hoping it was just in storage... And that I didn't fry it when I tested it the first time... I didn't know there were like, 147 bugs inside, man... Any idea where to start? Or should I just give up now? I did verify that it's not a corroded AV port. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer

Okay, I wanted to use SweetDarkDestiny's TSOP flash kit for all of my consoles that I am trying to flip and sell. I'll save money on modchips , and I want to be able to manage my TSOP AND flash it if that's possible, with an Xblast Lite. The xblast lite can do this, correct? With 1.0 and 1.1 consoles of course (1 meg flash). I do want to know if the xblast menu for the Lite will let me flash the TSOP? I mean, since it can manage it, whatever that means ,I'm sure it can flash it, correct?

Hi all, I was hoping someone could help me get my OGX360 working again. It was working for a couple years then I let it sit around for about a year and now the Chinese wireless Xbox 360 adapter won't sync with my controller (it worked before). I was able to successfully update all 4 boards of the ogx360 via Ryzee's instructions on Github but this did not solve the problem. I loaded the debug.hex file to the master board and got the following output on Termite: Ryzee119 ogx360 Testing Routine Based on test routine by Circuits At Home See https://github.com/felis/USB_Host_Shield_2.0/blob/master/examples/board_qc/board_qc.ino MAX3421 Revision 03 SPI bus integrity test. Transfers 1MB of data. Each dot is 64K................ SPI long test passed PLL test. 10 chip resets will be performed Oscillator Stability Check Reset number 0 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 1 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 2 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 3 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 4 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 5 Time to stabilize - 286 cycles Reset number 6 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 7 Time to stabilize - 286 cycles Reset number 8 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Reset number 9 Time to stabilize - 285 cycles Checking USB device communication. Waiting for device... Reset complete. Waiting for the first SOF... USB state machine reached error state Obviously there is a problem being detected by the self test, but I am not sure what this means. If anyone has an idea more specifically what this means please let me know. Thanks!

More precisely, fix the executable that loads poorly GPU-rendered images at 720p?

Hi everyone, I picked up a never-opened "for repair" 1.0 Xbox...the previous owner mentioned it would boot, but had audio issues. I've seen many issues that turned out to very minor fixes, so I said what the heck I'll give it a shot. He was right. It boots fine, but the audio has severe crackling whenever a sound should be playing. Boot sequence, main menu, games, all have crackling noise over the audio. I've tried the obvious things like changing the IDE cable, cleaning all contact points in the AV port, opening it and giving it a thorough cleaning, plus removing the clock cap. There was some clock cap leakage, but nothing too severe. I checked the traces and everything seems in order. I even tried cleaning the spots under the screws to make sure there was proper grounding. Is it possible there's clock cap acid damage to the audio hardware? Does the MCPX chip control the audio? I'm trying to determine whether this board can be salvaged, or whether I should just stop trying and just replace it. Thanks all in advance!

I've tried to boot with a newly formatted 2TB SATA HDD, and have been having issues... Cerbios Hybrid 2.3.1 UDMA5: Stays on the Boot Animation. M8Plus Titan & Stock (TSOP): Error 21. XBlastOS: Black screen, jumps back into XeniumOS The chip has XeniumOS 2.3.5. The drive has been formatted with FatXplorer using the Cerbios preset, and is unlocked. The only data on the HDD is the default C:\ contents from the XBOXHDM build of Rocky5's installer along with cerbios.ini and the BootAnims folder. I used CerbiosTool to generate the ini and have set "DashPath1" to "C:\xboxdash.xbe" and "DriveSetup" to 1 (No HDD, Legacy), with everything else being "stock". Does anyone know what could be the problem? UPDATE: Turns out it was an issue with using Rocky5's softmod files on a hardmod. I fixed this by just copying Rocky5's UnleashX build from xbins onto the C:\ partition.

I am trying to set Cerbios to launch XMBC off of E drive. I edited to the .ini to say "DashPath1 = \Device\Harddisk0\Partition1\Dashboard\default.xbe" and placed it in C:\ I then put the XMBC files in E:\Dashboard and it doesnt boot. The only thing the BIOs boots into is C:\xboxdash.xbe. I am trying to do this because I want to put MSDash on C and not XMBC. What am I doing wrong? I want to be able to boot stock dash when I want. Its a pain in the ass when the dash doesnt boot because I keep needing to put the HDD into my Stellar xbox inorder to FTP again. I dont have a IDE port on my PC.

I have hard modded xbox with aladin chip is there a guide to installing new dashboard to xbox

I just need to know how to wire these LEDs up and what the resistor values are. I can't find any place that is either still up or still hosting photos.

This is my second mod and I cannot for the life of me understand why the mod isn't working. Perhaps another modder would be able to help me out? The Xbox already had a softmod and boots up in UnleashX After the mod, the boot animation is showing the EvoX logo. Updating the bios is no problem, installed updated EvoX M8 plus bios Trying to boot from a Hexen, OG xbox install disc or Slayer's disc is not working. OG xbox installer DOES work in the softmod Trying another hdd gives an error 13 (160gb and 250gb ide, and sata 500gb drive with green adapter) I tought the problem could be a problem with a solder joint or a short as a result of my soldering error. Went over them with multimeter, does not seem to be the case. I'm at a loss right now trying to figure out what the problem is..

hi so as you may know my X2.6 chip for my 1.4 xbox is bricked I since got a jafar chip off ebay I snipped the plastic plug for my X2 off to expose the wires for solidering as far as i know i have 2 wires (one green one red) no i read on the github you can also "ground" D0 instead of soldering it, ground it to where a pin or what? trying to avoid solidering as much as possiable also used PiPROM to fetch my hdd key (this is a retail unit though im missing a dvd drive so it error 12's if all else fails i'll find a thompson at least to get ti up and running next month

Hi all, First of all, I'd like to thank Rocky5 and all involved in the softmodding tool, that really is a painless way to softmod. 18 years ago I was reading unofficial magazines on Xbox mods and was baffled by all that's possible and I'm glad I can start doing similar stuff thanks to you! I'm seeking help in the following problem, I posted this on Reddit but maybe you guys will have a better idea of what's going on here. I have seen several topics with the same problems over different boards but have yet to find a solution. I hope you guys don't mind. I've been stuck on this for the past few days. I'm trying to clone my hard drive (Seagate ST310211A, the 10GB one). I've tried using a WD3200AAJS, which was listed as working on x-pecs by multiple accounts, but haven't had luck as it returns Error 11 (missing/malfunctioning dvd drive). I know for a fact the drive is fine because when I plug everything back together with the stock drive, the console boots properly. Now, the WD is rated for 0.68A at 5v and 12v, so I looked up the current rating for the stock Seagate, which is here : Since the WD was quite a bit higher I took another hard drive I had lying around (Hitachi HTB-DS7AE100(B) ). Now I hadn't seen anything telling me this drive would be lockable or anything but I gave it a try nonetheless. Chimp recognized it fine and the clone went smoothly and it locked okay. The drive is rated for 0.42A for both 5 and 12v, so I thought it'd work better now. Still no luck as I get error 11 again. I do have a new 80 wire 40 pin cable, and am using the startech adaptor. The cable works fine with the stock drive, and the startech adaptor has good reputation, so I'm really at a loss here. Jumper switched back from slave to master (forgot it once and had error 7 this time). Can it be the hard drive drawing too much current and not leaving enough for the dvd drive? Dvd drive tray opens and closes even with error 11, everything's plugged in tight. I'm really at a loss here so any help is greatly appreciated, even if it's just 'buy this HDD, it works fine with the startech adaptor' !

Hi all, dug out my old xbox original which was last booted up around 15 years or more ago to find it not working as I left it. It's an xbox original with a Xenium modchip in it (one of the ones that you push in and then have a wire that sits in one of the solder holes - picture attached). As an additional problem I can't remember a thing about how it is set up or where the wire should be or what the extension cable (which currently not connected) even does and can't find any of my old notes on it. So any/ all help very much appreciated as to how to proceed on this. Basically, when you switch it on, it currently flashes green three times then goes to a green, red, green, red repeating colour change. If I move the wire out of the hole that it was located in, then it boots into normal mode and I can set the time etc. As soon as I put the wire back to where it was, then it does the not booting and colour sequence as above. Pic attached of modchip. If more information is helpful on something specific please let me know!.

Hi guys, unfortunately I will have to sell my precious Xbox with X3, X3CP, etc. It's in great conditions and works well. It comes with; Xecuter 3 chip installed Xecuter 3 panel X3CP with LCD screen 160GB harddisk with XBMC en CoinOPS installed Component and composite video cable Controller and extension cord Xbox remote Please see pictures attached for details. Asking 350 euro excluding shipping from the Netherlands. Cheers!

I've got one of these Aladdin XT clones from Aliexpress and want to flash it with XBlast instead of using the openxenium for testing my boards I do ram upgrade on. From what I read some said that the SST49LF020A chip needs to be replaced with SST49LF080A. Anyone has more idea of how this is exactly done or is there a write up about this? I've attached a picture of the SST49LF020A that's on the Aladdin XT I got at the moment/

Anyone with these tools? vbsp.exe (17 de novembro de 2005) vvis.exe (Sep 7 2005)vrad.exe SSE (Nov 9 2005)

I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.

Hello everyone! I will tell you about my problem: I have an Xbox 1.0 with TSOP and 128Mb of RAM (I bought it pre-modified), I have tried to install an Aladdin Xblast by soldering the pinheaders to the LPC port and soldering point D0 of the motherboard to D0 of the chip (I have also tried soldering D0 from motherboard to ground on motherboard) and got FRAG. I have followed Barnito's Lpc Diagnostics (V0.1) guide (https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/239-lpc-diagnostics-v01/#comment-945) to verify voltages and continuity. With respect to continuity everything is correct except pin 2 and with respect to voltages everything is correct (+-10% of the correct voltage) except pin 1 0V and pin 5 1.7V. If I disconnect the D0 cable from the chip or ground, or if I disconnect the Aladdin chip, the console boots correctly with the Cerbios bios that I flashed in the TSOP and boots my Xbmc4gamers. What could be the problem? (if photos are necessary, I'll take them later when I get home from work)

Hey everyone, apologies if this is in the wrong place. I recently bought a component cable from eBay, the ones made from a 360 component cable and standard ogxbox composite. I downloaded enigmah-x and changed from pal to ntsc, enabled 480 and 720p. I plugged it in and there’s a weird green tint to everything. The Xbox splash screen seems ok (the evox logo doesn’t appear greener) but the xbmc menu does. Anybody have any ideas what could be causing this? The composite cable works fine. I even turned up the red setting on my tv but that just made everything orange. I love electronics, why don’t they feel the same? Why can’t I just blow into something and it work? I miss my nes. Thanks again, Rob

Just being curious - i´m struggling with the "Hotplug"- Method in combination with an rather old USB IDE Enclosure (i suppose its from the early XP Times). Things i´ve done so far: While the XBOX HDD (WD80 with 10GB) is attached to it, things get extremely worse on my W7/Linux-PC. Its shown in the Device Manager/Drives as WD80, but not via WMIC, so Tools wont´t find the HDD at all. Hdparm (here /dev/sdc) would not resume and stalls the entire System. W7/Linux won´t shut down as long the Enclose is attached, neither does the PC boot (BIOS ginves me a B4 error, means USB Hotplug error). As soon as i power off the Enclosure/remove it, things will resume. Same happens when the drive is unlocked by the XBOX and hotswapped. But every other IDE drive in the Enclosure works fine. I understand that ATA Security could probably stall that old the Microcontroller in the Enclosure (somehow a 7.5 MHz RISC Controller), but i think as soon the drive is unlocked, this shouldn´t be a problem at all. -Or- the MC somehow resets the HDD again before it tries to obtain the drive data and the HDD is falling back to the point where ATA Security gets in Place, but i think the controller might have at least the ability to read out the drive data (Brand, Name etc) . Of course the Enclosure has always power while Hotswapping. Removing the jumper on the HDD (from Cable Select to Master) doesn´t do it. I got the Key for the HDD via my logic analyzer and its I2C Protocol Analyzer (Key has to be tried out). If things get completely worse, i could try to program an MC by myself and attach the drive to it in order to unlock it via Serial Commands (and remove the lock permanently, as well lock it again). But i think thats too much work. Done a AVR IDE/FAT32-Driver more than fifteen years ago (of course sources are lost by now), but somehow i won´t fiddle around again for only one purpose. I have another Seagate Spare IDE drive with 20 GB, which i could fit in the XBOX and try it to lock via the enclosure (if it does accept the command), but idk where or where to obtain the neccessary OS-files (including Softmod and the ability to connect to the XBOX via LAN/FTP, as well as a driver, wchih allows Access to a USB-Stick attached to a mechanically modified controller port). I understand that there have to be at least two Partition, C and E, but idk which FS (xfat?) etc. Any help is greatly appreciated ! Best regards Stef

I recently bought a few 1.0 consoles with "no power" issues, 2 of them have this same 47K resistor marked R902 (measured from a good psu) and surrounding area burned, both resistors are basically ash. I have a couple of questions, is this a common issue with this model psu, is replacing these burnt components likely to save these things, or is the issue probably caused by something else that sent too much power through the resistor, such as the large transistor in front of it? Here's a pic of what it's supposed to look like:

I got a xbox og with no hard drive can I fix it?

i almost lost everything in a house fire the fire happened two years ago and at that time i slimmed down my xboxs and only had two of them one just a softmod the other the xecuter 3 now let me tell you these xboxs were directly under my 55in flat screen tv and the tv melted all down on the xboxs now im here to tell you that Microsoft built a tank when they built these things because softmod survived i mean the case is junk both power and eject buttons were melted together i had to break the case apart and pull the power/eject pcb board out to turn it on now i have not cleaned the mother board or anything and it functions so i have hope i have not hooked up x3 to see whats up its the holy grail instead i have it pulled apart and trying to clean the mother board and mod chip and try to get it up and going again the switches are really bad one of the switches got so hot that some of the buttons fell off one switch came apart a spring came out but the switch might still work if you act like there is a spring there it will cycle but they are all melted in some way ie the switches now about the lcd screen i have it all pulled apart i might be able to salvage it it had some sort of tint on the out side of the glass witch is easy i just have to find out about what % tint it was but on the other side of the glass screen for illumination there is a white semi transparent film for even and soft illumination and now mine is is wavy like a pice of bacon and that will effect the screens back light illumination so if i can figure out the tint % and a good replacement for the backlight diffuser i think its what it is lol and to replace these switches https://imgbox.com/g/Pl9bJWtgsZ

Hey all, first post as I stumbled across this page while trying to research my halo edition xbox. I pulled it out of storage and wanted to sell it as I havent used it in forever and am fairly out of the video game collecting these days. Memory is pretty fuzzy on this as it's been awhile, but I bought this new when it came out, used it a good amount and then ended up putting the Xenium Ice modchip in with the solderless adapter. It's been in a closet for at least the past 10 years. I believe the hard drive and disc drive are original, almost positive I never replaced those. I hooked it all up and tested it, works great, the only game I had laying in the closet with it was Sneak King, so I tossed that in to confirm the drive still worked, no issues. The case looks great, no cracks. It is missing one of the rubber feet. Controller, power and video cables are the original ones that came with it. I'd like to get $300 + shipping for it, but am open to offers. Pics attached and happy to take others if anyone needs.