FrostyMaGee

I wondered if that might work. It’s worth trying if all else fails for sure and no replacement part can be found (which so far seems to be the case but a few of us are still looking around).

That’s what I said as well. Lol. I’ve been able to find nothing on it spec wise. There seems to be a dearth of information about the inductors. It has to be out there somewhere.

Might as well. I can say this from having looked around to try and find one for @lopenator The deltas don’t seem to have the correct replacement part. Additionally it doesn’t look like all the foxlinks do either. The foxlink rev B might but I’m not sure. The type Lopenator has is a foxlink FTPS-0001 Rev C just in case anyone has that specific model psu.

@Raidernick I forgot to mention the angled tip. Good call! @Mittyoz Basically any of the three types of tips mentioned will work. It will all come down to comfort level and what works best for you.

True. If you had a little junk PCB around to practice on first that would be beneficial. I had a baptism by fire with it back in the first year of college and had to learn on the actual motherboard that needed repair. Lol It also occurs to me that we have other members on the forum that live in Australia. Worse comes to worse one of them might be able to assist with the replacement of that resistor if possible. Edit: Remember it doesn’t have to look perfect on the first one you do. Lol. It just needs to connect with no shorts.

It’s much easier with a hot air rework station but it can be done with a soldering iron and a small chisel tip (I preferred this one when I had the room) or conical tip. That’s how we used to do it back in old laptop hardware repair days. You can usually heat up both sides and kind of push the resistor off or use tweezers in tandem with the iron. After that you can try placing the new one on with tweezers and using any remaining solder on the pads. Another route is to clean the pads off then use flux and the pre-tinned areas of the resistor to do a dry tack then come back with a little solder to make it nice. I would highly suggest a magnifier or at least a pair of wearable magnifying glasses though. Much easier. When I was in my 20s I could do it without those but no longer. Lol. It looks more daunting than it is though. If you’ve done any soldering before there will be a small learning curve but you should be able to get it in a few tries.

Also the cost of a resistor compared to the cost of a new adapter plus shipping to Australia. I figured I’d mention it as something to try since Raidernick had success with it.

Alternatively you could also try this with the adapter that @Raidernick posted yesterday that might make the cheap sata adapter function properly. He has a different branded adapter but they look to be built the same. If it worked it would save you some money. “ got more help from the cerbios discord. A user there told me that adding a 100ohm resistor to the R4 pad on this adapter will fix not only the speed but also the boot times. I added this resistor and the xbox now boots instantly(same as the startech) and UDMA5 works at full speed now (same as the startech). That makes these adapters basically as good as the startech with some very basic modification.”

A quick note on the flash drive and adapter…I’ve found best practice is to hook these up to a controller port of your choosing before you power on the Xbox. It basically eliminates the issue that happens with some usbs where the Xbox will corrupt usb data when it’s plugged in while already on. It doesn’t happen all the time but is annoying when it does. Anyway, just thought I’d mention it.

That’s cool and definitely worth playing around with for those of us that don’t mind solder work. Thanks for sharing the info! I love the startechs but not the price per unit. If I could get the same use out of a cheaper unit with an extremely easy mod that would be nice. I’ll definitely have to try that out.

Glad to hear the c and e rebuild remedied one of the issues as we’d hoped. Always nice when that happens!

Plus once you replaced the hdd you can take the problem drive out and hit it with a bat like the printer in Office Space. Lol. Or you can take the platters out and use them as a mirror or something. I always save the magnets out of the old mechanical drives. They come in handy.

Given that info I feel like the hdd def needs to be replaced. It’s not dead yet but sounds like it’s on it’s way out. Probably bad sectors as well.

That makes me wonder if the issue was corruption from a failing hdd. Clicking is always a bad sign. Lol. As you said clean files won’t fix that issue. Edit: loud clicking at least. Lol

You could also grab the eeprom since ftp is up.

Oh ok. Lol. Well if you end up doing let me know. I feel like data corruption was the issue with that one. It is tempting to just chip it since you have the xblasts anyway. Lol.

@Bowlsnapper did you end up restoring c and e or just replacing dashboard files in case of data corruption? Or did you just decide to put a chip in it?

Oh yeah I’ve done it on many hdds before as well. I’m just curious if that’s the only issue. My assumption is that’s the only problem going on but as we’ve all run in to before….og Xboxes can be finicky sometimes. Lol. Hopefully it’ll be cut and dry though. I hadn’t even thought about that with the old ndure but yeah that would work too. Good call if all else fails!

That was my thinking. A quick pop on the lpc with the pogo adapter and he’s got the eeprom. I’m really just curious if it would remedy the issue replacing those hdd files or partitions. Obviously the hard mod would but I kinda want to know what would fix the software side. It would dig at me not to find out. Lol

Bowl has one of @Dtomcat18 picoprom readers though so he could extract the eeprom that way. At least I was thinking he had one.

What about just popping the hdd out and restoring C and E with fatxplorer or Xboxhdm like we’d talked about with mittys similar problem? Or using those and just copy dashboard files over to see if anything happened? I swear it has to be something simple. I’m still leaning toward data corruption by the dvd drive during softmod or maybe on the burned disc itself (not the program of the course).

Agreed on trying a dash install. I would be curious to see if it changed anything. I feel like either there isn’t a dash it can find or something has possibly gotten corrupt or just not loading for whatever reason. It would def be a good test.

As others have said as well…many thanks for all your projects and contributions sir! I have used them for a good while now and have always been happy and grateful. Keep up the great work and thank you again.

Cool. I didn’t realize you’d recapped it already as well. Maybe we can find that part. I’ve found a compatible psu in some of my parts stuff but it’s a delta and not a foxlink. So far that’s the only 1.0/1.1 psu I’ve run across but I’m still looking through stuff.

Out of curiosity have you tried reflowing all the joints around that transformer, plug, etc? I was just trying to think of some other possibilities while I’m looking around for a replacement.