FrostyMaGee
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Everything posted by FrostyMaGee
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Well that sucks. Sorry it didn’t work dude. I wish we could figure out what’s up with some of these that have this issue. They seem to be becoming more prevalent.
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That’s why I was thinking coma console in this case. As Bowl mentions it could be a lot of things. Reading your post though it reminded me of a 1.0 I had that did the same. I was able to remedy it with that by forcing the Xbox to use other banks. Wanted to mention it as a possible fix.
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For capacitors definitely go with Mouser Electronics or Digikey if you’re US based.
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Hmm. Have you double checked for any shorting or solder splashes that might be causing that? My other thought is “coma console”. If it turns out to be that there was a trick for the 1.0 that could wake it up so to speak but it required some soldering. It basically forces the Xbox to use one of the other banks. Here’s an archived link for it should you need it later. https://web.archive.org/web/20060109124019/http://www.llamma.com:80/xbox/Repairs/ComaConsole.htm
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Were you able to find a suitable replacement mosfet? I may have a 1.6 where this is also the issue but regardless I would like to add it to my list of replacement parts.
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I’d be interested to know for sure as well!
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Sound/Video issue with my 1.4
FrostyMaGee replied to extra-ordinary_'s topic in General Xbox Discussion
Well as you said they’re over 20 years old. The life expectancy of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors ran out a while back. I’d for sure replace the 3300uf 6.3v caps near the cpu but honestly they could all use replacing just due to their age. Also yes they can be bad and still look ok. Usually you see some outward signs but not every time. This probably doesn’t relate to your current issue but just wanted to answer your question about capacitors. I like to replace the caps near the cpu by default regardless of what they look like since they tend to be a common point of failure anyway. When I have time I’ll just do a full board recap all together. -
I don’t know 100% but I would think you could use the additional open spots for those caps like the older board revs did with 1500uf caps but instead have 2200uf as long as other conditions were met. Going up in microfarad usually isn’t a problem (up as compared to say the five original 1500uf on the older revisions). I can say for sure that you don’t want to go under voltage on those. Slightly over voltage rating is usually ok as well but they definitely need to be at least 6.3v plus the other specs that @KaosEngineer mentioned as they’re also important.
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Congratulations on the new addition!
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1.4 version freezing sometimes on Cerbios splash screen
FrostyMaGee replied to monkeyjab's topic in Repair
You can use XBPartitioner to check the cluster sizes of your partitions. -
I beat you to it! Lol. It would’ve taken me longer to find usually but I had just pulled the psu out of it yesterday so I knew exactly where it was.
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I had a 1.0 laying around in a parts box. I took a pic of the area for comparison.
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I just saw this but wondered if you found what you needed for softmodding or at least a place to start. If not let me know and I’ll see what I can do to help.
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Well at least the 1.4 is being consistent. Lol. It’ll be interesting to see if Stubbs works fine on the modded 1.6 once you get it back.
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Just to clarify on the upgraded cable…this is always necessary when upgrading from the IDE drives. In a nutshell the 80 wire 40 pin cables are high speed and give you a ground between each of the 40 pins to reduce crosstalk thereby preventing signal level corruption at the higher transfer speeds. Not having this cable when you upgrade to a sata drive and adapter can also (and usually does) produce an error 7 on the original Xbox. Anyway, I just wanted to elaborate on why you needed this cable and when.
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1.3 Has No Power, Potential Catastriphic Damage?
FrostyMaGee replied to infernal_byte's topic in Repair
Just off the top of my head I’d suggest replacing C1E1, C2E4, and C3E2 (the three near the cpu just in case I didn’t recall all the location codes correctly lol) when you’re replacing the others. They are 3300 microfarad 6.3v and are 10mm diameter by 25mm length for that revision board. These can have a direct effect on your power as well (though in this case there are probably multiple things). They look ok from your pictures but at this point are really old anyway and should be replaced. Since you’ll be replacing some other radial caps already I thought I mention them. -
1.3 Has No Power, Potential Catastriphic Damage?
FrostyMaGee replied to infernal_byte's topic in Repair
I’m just seeing a lot of corrosion spots that are worrisome though. Hopefully it’s not too far gone. -
1.3 Has No Power, Potential Catastriphic Damage?
FrostyMaGee replied to infernal_byte's topic in Repair
It really does look like that may have happened. Yikes! That might explain some of the rest right in that area. Along with a leaking clock cap of course. It’s definitely rough looking in that whole part of the mobo. I’d like to see what it looks like after he does a good cleaning to reassess. -
1.3 Has No Power, Potential Catastriphic Damage?
FrostyMaGee replied to infernal_byte's topic in Repair
Could you post a close up picture of the power rails at 6-8 on the underside of your motherboard (underneath where the clock cap was situated)? 7 is probably where the issue may lie but you should look at them carefully to see if there are any broken traces or other instances of trace rot there that need to be repaired. That’s a good place to start with visual inspection given the condition of the clock cap you described. -
True. Lol. I was just trying to clarify what Bowl was saying. Plus I like picoPromsd! That being said i do like to learn new and other ways to do things. That’s always a good thing. I’m too spoiled now with dtomcat18’s device though. Lol. I don’t want to go back to doing it the old way but it’s good to know I can and that people are still working to innovate and improve on processes.
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Honestly if you’re running for a few hours and still in the 45-55C range you’re probably fine. The 1.0 has the case fan and a fan on the gpu and tends to run cooler than the aforementioned. Should you want to replace the thermal though just be sure to do a few things. -as fox and thairanny mention be sure to heat up the cpu/gpu by either letting it run for ten or so mins or using a heat gun. The cpu heat sink will probably fall off on its own after the clip is removed. The gpu heat sink almost always sticks hence the needed heat. Do not try and pry them off or force them off. You can irreparably damage your system doing this. If there’s still resistance it needs to be heated up a bit more. You should easily be able to slightly twist them loose. I use a heat gun and it usually takes less than ten secs on a low temp before it comes loose. -also mentioned was to take care when removing the clips. They’re old and can be brittle. The best way is to use your finger or thumb to press in on the smaller side of the clip and gently work the main (larger) side of the clip loose with your other hand. This is the nice way and tends to have less of a chance to break than using a flathead on the clip ends. Just keep in mind that sometimes they can still break due to age and material. Go slow and don’t force it. -get a good quality thermal paste and be sure you’re applying the correct amount. -as for cleaning off the old I personally like the ArtiClean 1 + 2 package but there are other ways. That’s just my preference.
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I believe @Bowlsnapper is referring to @Dtomcat18 PicoProm which is far more simple to use for reading and writing the eeprom image. It uses the lpc port either via a pogo pin adapter or via a header soldered in to the lpc. The eeprom is stored on sd card when read and you can also write a bin file from the sd card to the eeprom. Very fast and plug and play. I think that’s what he was referring to but correct me if I’m wrong, Bowl.
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No. It won’t do anything permanent but it’ll give you an Error 6 when you try and boot if they don’t match. Other than that you should be fine though.
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Exactly. Plus you know what I said a while back…if you can set master or slave manually then do it rather than trusting a cable. (That goes for all electronics.) Just had to say it again. Lol. Not really applicable to modern day stuff but still.
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The blue end should be going in the hdd. Wasn’t sure if that’s what you meant or if you were referring to the motherboard. The cable basically goes in backwards to how you would put it in a pc.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48