FrostyMaGee

Yeah if they’re of very good quality I could see paying that occasionally when I needed something special case wise. I’d rather it be more like $100US but $130 is in the ballpark if the quality is A plus. Like @GoTeamScotch said many of the older cheaper ones were just that…cheap in most all aspects and I don’t recall them having much durability either (stress fractures, etc).

Are you getting the error 16 powering on via the power button or via the eject button?

Not sure. It has a Focus video chip though so that pretty much makes it a 1.4. Technically the 1.5s were supposed to have them but since no one has ever really seen one lol I’d go with 1.4.

Ah ok. Sorry I missed that in the original post. Hmm that is very odd. I’m fairly certain I’ve run all those off a HDD before but I’ll test it out again just to see. That’s just weird it’s only those games. That’s good about the cache. At least it can be eliminated as a cause.

I’ve had decent luck recapping the drives and sometimes replacing resistors. I have run in to far less truly dead lasers but they are out there. Recapping has, for the most part, kept me from having to do pot tweaks as often compared to years past. Half of the time all they really need is a thorough cleaning and drive belt replacement tbh. Lol. I have had a few spindle motors that were actually problems though. Never had an eject motor die but have had many (on the drives that have separations for this) that needed thorough cleaning (usually with contact cleaner) before they would work properly again. That being said the motor wasn’t the issue as much as the control board for it. They’re all definitely showing their age at this point. I try to use my working drives as little as possible and usually suggest the same for any Xboxes I repair or sell. Most everyone wants to move to the hdd upgrade and play games that way so it works out. At least there’s a functioning one there when you really need it is my thought.

Just out of curiosity have you cleared the cache on this box? Sometimes that can cause odd crashes/freezes. It would be interesting to see if the Stubbs game crashed on your system sans the hard mod but that may be more than you want to do to it.

I usually do xbmc4gamers or just some version of unleash if I don’t need the bells and whistles (like a test box or something of that nature). I hope you’re only listening to Boston’s first album cause that’s the only one that was great. Lol. Third Stage had Amanda but the rest of it sucked as did their second album.That’s just me though. They screwed with their sound by screwing with the lineup from the titular Boston album. Never was as good after that.

Same to you! I wonder if you could just swap the spindle out with another should that be the dying part? Well be sure to post as you get in to it and narrow things down with the drive. It’s always possible it is the control board though.

Starting to reach EOL? I’d say well past probably. Lol. Just had to dig at you for a sec Bowl.

Hmm..SMDs maybe? That’s weird it just stopped working.

I figured you would know best since I thought it was one of yours. Hence the tag earlier.

Did you ever have any luck with this one or determine if the whine was coming from the spindle motor or somewhere else?

If it’s an Xblast from @Bowlsnapper it has a 256 and a 512 bank if I’m not mistaken. Correct me if I’m wrong though, Bowl.

Unfortunately that’s the spot I was thinking might be broken. I had one similar where the previous owner tried to force it open and broke the front bezel piece and had also broken that gear loose. Actually it wasn’t the gear as much as the plastic piece it mounted to on the frame. There wasn’t any way to repair mine. I tried gluing (even with a two part epoxy) but it was such a small area and a stress point that it would never hold for long before coming loose again. I ended up swapping out the frame with a parts Samsung I had.

If it’s the white tab I’m thinking of it shouldn’t be very loose. Pressing the two tabs on each side is the only way to remove the tray. From what you’ve said it sounds like their might be a broken piece impeding the movement though. Could you put up some photos of the area? Also can you see anything in the gear and belt area towards the front?

I don’t have one on hand for a picture but I’ll keep an eye out. I do remember this with a Phillips that gave me odd connection problems years ago. I ended up reflowing the solder joints for the 40 pin connector on the drive pcb. It worked after that. Not sure if that’s your problem but thought I’d mention it nonetheless.

I believe he’s talking about the large mouse with the trackball on the top. Simulates the trackball control from the old centipede, crystal castles, marble madness type games.

I’ve gotten lucky with people and places getting rids of electronics before but never a find like that and still sealed in the bag. Awesome!

It’s not often one can work a Hudson Hawk reference in to a conversation. Well done sir!

You can just wedge some tin foil in there, Bowl. LOL jk

Same here. Acetone or the ArtiClean 1 + 2 bottles work great though.

You could try replacing U6F1. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi/ADM1032ARMZ-REEL?qs=t2BMfLoP1KQzRXaQRzFLxA%3D%3D

That very well could be the case.

I’ve seen a few similar to this where they reverted back to stock after a softmod to sell I assume. Usually nobody bothers doing that before they sell them. Lol. As HDShadow said it has leftovers from that process. That’s what it looks like anyway. I imagine you’d see some other evidence of this looking at the hdd. I am surprised they left the applications though it’s possible they assumed those would be removed when they reverted. Are there any of the save game exploits present in 007 AUF or MechAssault or is it just normal save game data?

Agreed! Mine has been invaluable and the ease of use is so nice. Extremely glad I got one.