Fringle

Error 6 is because the xbox cannot unlock the hdd. Error 7 is basically it unlocked the drive but can't access it for some reason. Since you changed the key to all 1's the stock hdd can't be unlocked since it still locked with the old key. It sounds like your eeprom could be corrupted which if so, will need to be restored from the backup you made before changing the key or the problem is related to the IDE bus somewhere and that's why it cannot access the drive after unlocking it and returns error 7. I honestly doubt a modchip install would fix this.

That's a lot of Ram. I'm sure it will be put to good use though. I'm also assuming it was a bad chip but since the console still works it's not a big deal. Can always leave this one at 64mb. I'm sure it's better than the PS2 version. Gonna wait till I get get a couple more Wii2hdmi's to install in these since I like the versatility of being able to use either component or hdmi. I really don't find their quality that bad and they're cheap. Recently used one to make an hdmi adapter for my 360 since the hana is dead and felt that it was a strong possibility I'd kill the console if I tried to replace it, the quality is just as good as the internal hdmi.

Download the XblastOS 0.56 pack. Rename crcwell.bin to bios.bin and put in the bios folder on the c drive. If you have a hynix tsop flash it with Evox or the xbe version of xblast os. You'll want to copy the evox folder or xblast folder to your hdd to do the flashing without a disc. You'll not want to leave xblast flashed to your tsop though once you're done and you can flash it back to what ever bios you're now using xblast via hdd or network if you are unable to transfer the bios to the hdd after flashing xblast. https://bitbucket.org/psyko_chewbacca/lpcmod_os/downloads/XBlast_OS_v0.56.zip

This one was strange. It would still boot but wouldn't pass the ram test. I did use a ram chip with a missing leg but after checking the schematic it was an nc leg so figured I could get away with using it. Turns out I was wrong but may have also been dead from removing it with hot air. Ah well, lesson learned and won't bother attempting to use ram from another console again. I may have to give Half Life X a try. Played the original quite a bit on PC when it was released back in 98 on my old Pentium 166 with an original 3dfx voodoo. The loading screens were abundant but didn't stop me from playing the shit out of it.

Nice. I tried the upgrade again on my last console but this time attempted using ram salvaged from a dead board. I couldn't even get the first chip to pass so abandon it. Ended up lifting up one of the pads removing it but luckily enough the Xbox still works. I may attempt it again in the future on this one and attach to the via if I end up getting some more ram. Still have yet to find any games that I play other than emulators that benefit from the extra ram though.

I recently did an RGH3 on my old 360. It's pretty easy but not 100% reliable on the fat consoles due to boot time variations. Just need a switching diode, 10-22k resistor, a pico and a pc. Been modding and tinkering with all of my older consoles recently. It's more of a hobby for me though, than a money making adventure.

I'm sure you will get some good use out of it. If I had one 10-15 years ago I would have used one quite a bit to reball the many ps3's and Xbox 360's I had shit the bed on me. The one time I did remove a gpu from a 360 I ended up cooking it to death. It was a good time.

Thanks, it seemed to go a lot smoother and quicker. I mean the first install took me altogether about 6 hours with troubleshooting. Doing one chip at a time and testing with Xblast was a much better option and cut the total time down to like 45 min. haha Would enjoy attempting a cpu upgrade at some point but won't be able to afford a proper infrared rework station for quite some time.

Yeah, I think I paid like 25 CAD bucks for 10 chips. Still better than buying a set of 4 from some sites that want that same amount or slightly more. I was able to upgrade two Xboxes for that price which is still cheaper than buying dead ones to salvage from. These are the ones I bought. Went with the K4D263238F-UC50 since they were a bit cheaper and appear to be genuine samsung. They all worked anyway so none were DOA. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002121771120.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.3d711802Fn2hQn

Ah gotcha. I was going to say the second install went quite smoothly for me. Almost too smooth. All chips passed in the 1.0 but I'm paranoid to flash cerbios back now in case it frags.. Maybe you had some bad chips in there. I ordered all mine from aliexpress and they all appear to have been good. Edit: It worked!!

Damn. That's a lot of ram. I'm not bothered by failure, it's only a mistake if I don't learn from it. Hahaha

Going to do the 1.0 I have now. Just flashed xblast to the tsop so can hopefully makes the process a little easier. Got 4 ram chips left so this will be the last one I do for a while.

Finally it flashed properly with Gentoox and boots without wires.

I was thinking about doing another one. This one is the second box I attempted it on. I thought the first one I did was dead until about an hour ago. Long story short on that one is I put one ram chip on, noticed the seating wasn't right so pulled it off with hot air. Knocked a cap and resistor off due to the air flow but put them back on, the system still wouldn't boot. I was going to pull the tsop off that one and put it on this one but decided to look at the ram spot again and noticed a solder bridge on one of the resistors close to where I reattached a capacitor. Removed the bridge and that one came back to life so decided to spare it and will attempt to upgrade that one again at some point. I do have another board here but it also has a fucking Sharp. Just my luck that the two 1.1 boards I was given were Sharp tsops and the 1.0's were Hynix. Once I'm back to working I'll look into getting a good modchip. Going to be finishing my 4th class Marine Engineering exams next week so will hopefully be back to work soon.

Thank ya. It seems that the battle isn't over yet though. Went to put a sata hdd in this one and flash cerbios udma mode 4 with xblast and it corrupted the tsop. I am able to boot still by bridging A19-A18-3.3v and letting it boot off bank 4 but having a heck of a time flashing it back to a working state. It's a Sharp tsop so wasn't an easy flash to begin with but damn this one is a pain in my ass. Keeps telling me it's write protected even when using the original method I used. Might just have to run this one off of bank 4 from now on or until I can figure it out and hope it lasts.

Holy shit. This was quite the process and really tested my patients. First off I installed all 4 chips at once since I didn't think Xblast could be flashed to the tsop or that it wasn't a good idea. I know better for next time. Took me about 2 hours to get all the chips installed and I thought my soldering looked really good. No bridges, but all this xbox would do is frag. After fucking with it for about 4 hours I decided I had enough and put it away thinking the box was dead. This morning I decided to have another go at it, went back over my soldering and once again thought it looked really good but the damn machine still wouldn't boot. Now, I'm really frustrated. I take out the solder braid and start wicking off the solder in attempt to remove the chips. I notice that a couple of pins are slightly bent and might be touching other pads. I proceed to straighten them out, partially lifting a pad in the process. Once I get all of that done, I'm thinking there is no way this thing is going to start now. Well it surprised the shit out of me, it booted and all 4 ram chips passed. Maybe today is the day I should go buy a lottery ticket cause I feel pretty damn lucky this actually worked. If I do it again I'll be putting xblast on the tsop.

Yeah, I should have mentioned that older XboxHDM is quite reliable where the USB version seems to have some issue with different USB chipsets. I never had an issue with the old XboxHDM using IDE drives directly connected to the motherboard, just the newer USB versions.

This also happened to me when using XboxHDM with a 120gb sata drive. The drive is now essentially dead since it won't unlock no matter what method I use. I'd recommend avoiding XboxHDM and use FatXplorer for unlocking and locking drive, so far it has not given this issue.

To be fair I've never had a chance to us Xblast OS though due to it not working with my 3rd party controller. I was just reading up on it the last couple of days since I was trying to figure out if I could install it to my tsop temporarily while attempting the ram upgrade so I would be able to run the test and I read somewhere that it didn't resize them. Must have been old info. I've ordered an OEM controller though so that should hopefully be here in a week or so and I'll be able to try it out with reflashing the Sharp tsop. Might have to eventually buy a flashable mod chip.

Not my intention. haha Just figured it would be easier to burn an iso that was created just for this purpose than creating one manually. That's a pretty slick looking Xbox. @fox I've also read that xblast os doesn't resize bios files when flashing so remember to flash the correct size for your tsop if using xblast on a 1.0 or 1.1.

Burnable ISO. Just grab OGXBox Cebios Flasher Disc v2.3.1 build 005 (02.07.2023).rar from one of the links Flash with Evox or if it's a sharp you'll have to either use xblast or this method:

First you'd need to dump the eeprom.bin from the Xbox. Edit it with an eeprom editor of your choice(XboxEepromEditor works well enough) and either fill the key with 0's or 1's then write the edited eeprom.bin file back to the Xbox. After that you can lock any drive you wish with what ever software supports locking drives with a null key such as FatXplorer. It also has the option of setting a master password just in case you forget the key.

Essentially, as you can lock a drive with 16 0's or 16 1's or any 16 digit number/letter combo for that matter as long as you remember what you made the password you can lock any drive for that Xbox. EDIT: You would need to first unlock a locked hard drive with it's proper password/eeprom.bin and relock it with the new key.

Your best bet if you're not going to flash the tsop is to just null out the hdd key with all 0's or all 1's in the eeprom and then write the nulled eeprom back to the Xbox. Makes it much easier to ensure you have the right key that way. Edit: You'll also want to dump the eeprom.bin file a couple of times too and compare them to ensure you have a proper dump. Once you've confirmed that the hdd keys match you're pretty safe to write the eeprom.bin back once nulled.

Seems that if it still boots disc's, you could just create an iso of the evox dashboard, burn it and boot it, backup the eeprom, dump it to your computer via ftp, pull the drive, unlock it with fatXplorer, create a new soft modded hdd and lock the drive with the eeprom. Or, boot the cerbios install disc and flash the tsop, pull the drive and create a new one and not having to worry about locking or soft modding it. Not sure I know what you mean by spotless disc's though.