coldasijs
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Posts posted by coldasijs
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On 12/1/2023 at 6:30 PM, Dtomcat18 said:
The one unfair side to this (not taking sides or attacking. Offering a point of view) is best seen by reversing the roles. By the attack here, you suggest you shouldn’t/don’t make any money off of the things you make. The time and energy and resources you put into your designs is worth nothing… your firmware you spent time on is worth nothing. Simply because you hate someone… anything the individual does is shit and a scam and overpriced. I believe everyone has a right to an opinion… I just love for this to be place of knowledge and help instead of shit bashing. I, personally, feel all the toxicity hides/masks/diminishes the value of this place. With that said… nice work… by open sourcing… I’ll be excited to see the changes to the design.
All that toxic hate was the reason for me not to hang around here anymore. I’m pretty sure I’m not the only one. Nice to see you’re still trying to keep the ship a float!
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10 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I understand that the retrotink is upscaling basically a stretched image... It'll upscale whatever you put into it! Any 4:3 game is gonna be stretched and that's just the way it is, unfortunately. I would love to have one of those things to play with. It would help with scaling 240 content to 480, since I have so many CRTs that display natively in that resolution. Although my Daewoo monitor has a native of 240, but only has RF input... I was thinking about getting an RF adapter for the Xbox since they do exist, and running my emulators into that so that they could run at native 240 resolution which is what they were designed for, NES, Genesis, SNES etc. As well as the n64 console that I actually have with an everdrive. Damn those scanlines match up well! It's a satisfying feeling.
I've actually looked at the PVM20L5 specifically because it really caught my attention among all the others. It's pretty much the biggest PVM you can get as far as I know before you get into BVM territory. That's what I would choose too
I'm surprised you found an FW 900 for much cheaper than I've seen them, which is about 3500 to 4000. I honestly would have picked that up, because it WASN'T a bad price among all the others... And it's the best CRT monitor ever made.
If you see one for that price again, I would buy it! As long as you have the discretionary cash on hand to spend on it of course.
all tv's can display 240p natively. It's basically 480i, but instead of interchanging even-uneven lines between frames it will always show the even lines(or uneven). This is where the scanlines come from.
6 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:I really, really wish the US had standardized something like SCART. Even on cheap TVs, it enabled you to input a great signal source. Congrats on getting it new in the box!
I managed to get 2 1985 Sony Trinitron KX-M270s new in the box and although they look like they can be modded for RGB, I don't even wanna fuck with it. They have one RCA input and it's composite video. Good enough for me. Lol. They were never sold to the public so I'm happy to have a rare set that you can't even buy second hand, brand new. 2 of them! Got lucky enough to find an old service manual from 1985 too, has all the schematics and wiring diagrams.
According to prntscn, the RGB isn't good with the OG. But I'd be interested to see what you think of it, since I haven't had the chance to try... Is there any point in using SCART to component, or would it just downgrade the signal to component quality? I don't have an RGB display...
don't think RGB adds much over component. In theory it should have slighty better color accuracy, but in reality you will not see a significant difference. You can gain more with a better screen then going the RGB route.
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15 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I try to match the native resolution with plasmas, so it looks better. Like I have a 720p plasma, and I use that for 720p signals. And I try to use the 1080 for 1080 signals. Although the 1080 does 720p fine. It's not as shit as an LCD. It looks a hell of a lot better.
I want a retrotink for sure. Although I would be bothered by stretched aspect ratios. I see what you're saying about the design. Some of the print is the proper aspect ratio but the bitmaps aren't. It does look like it sort of was designed that way, doesn't it? That's really beautiful looking and thank you for sharing
Do you have a suggestion for PVMs, both widescreen and 4:3?
I definitely am eager to try the HDMI mod from Nemesis. I'd love to be an alpha tester if I can. I want some real HDMI output... And not that b******* MakeMHZ proprietary output.
You can select aspect ratio in the retrotink, so it’s not the retrotink who is stretching things but rather the xbox itself. Only a handful of games on the xbox where designed as native 16:9.
Definitely not an expert on PVM’s, but anything Sony would be my first pick. The sony pvm 20L5 is probably one to go for, but you have to be willing to sell a kidney for it
. Not to long ago there was a sony fw900 up for sale on eBay in Czechia, almost considered driving up there to pick it up, however 1800 euros was a bit too crazy. Just think about for which console/resolution you want to use it for. 720p and up usually break the bank and are rare, but 480i and down are far more easier to find. And sometimes you just need to be lucky. The Barconet ADVM20 I bought recently was only 90 euros, old advertising poster which I found suggests it can do all the way up to 1080p! Haven’t got my hands on it yet, a friend picked it up for me and its still at his house.
Here are 2 more pictures of my Sony PVM
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@Bowlsnapper skip the pound cable completely
. These cables are notorious for being either too bright(sega megadrive) or too dark. On top of this they have variable inputlag of 1-2 frames.
But anyway 720p looks awesome on a plasma. I love the low polygon look of the xbox games. CTR nitro is one of those that looks awesome on 720p and 16:9. Picture below is upscaled to 1440p. But there is no extra AA applied or anything. I think this game was natively designed as a 16:9 because it didn’t look this great on my pvm when I tested it last week.
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congratz @Bowlsnapper nice achievement!
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So I joined the club. Sony trinitron 20M7MDE. It outputs 480p and looks gorgeous. These monitors were used in the hospital, previous owner picked 2 of these up for free because they wanted to trow them out
. Might get it serviced and definitely will replace the fan for a quieter one.
But that’s not all, today a friend will pick up a Barco ADVM20 for me. These babies could go up to 1080i. Sadly only via SDI. Info on this thing is very limited but it is possible to rgb mod these things. Worst case I would use it with my retrotink 5x HDMI to SDI. This is mainly for my sega as SDI apparently doesn’t like 240p-480i
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8 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
What the hell? Why so inexpensive?
it's likely just a scam site. Like I said, everything has the same price lol.
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I found them here for cheap
https://shoptr6.goftman.org/content?c=xbox+crystal&id=31
For some reason everything cost 23.91 euro, doesn't matter whether it is towels or very rare consoles
There are a few up for sale on ebay. Not sure if you want to dish out the dough
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@Bowlsnapper relax, it was just a joke from sweet. He is german and they are famous for their humor
are you using the same dash on all consoles? I think some dashes incorrectly report clock speed -
On 8/16/2023 at 9:39 PM, Dempsey_86 said:
I did some gaming
The fanspeed setting I used:
- in bios 100%
- in dash 20%
- xbox output fan is always at 100% (60mm)
The noctua 60mm fan is even at 100% reasonable quiet, not really loader than the stock fan at default speed.
In dash at 20% for the 80mm fans they do not come over the sound of the output fan
when in game at 100% you hear them if you turn the sound down but its not an distracting sound.
These are all noctua fans, these are known to be silent, other fans can give different results, maybe yours cool better but have more sound, ect
The temps I had where:
- after playing colin mcrae rally 2005 cpu:39 mb:36
- after playing pro race driver cpu:35 mb:37
These are very nice temperatures. Looks like a nice upgrade
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On 8/19/2023 at 9:11 AM, WhiteBeard said:
Update: I just looked at the fees on eBay - Fuck that noise hard. 13.5% my ass.
I'll have an Auction in this thread (if I'm allowed)
Rules:
Here's how I'll do it to make it fair to everyone: I'll have a silent Dutch auction that lasts for 3 days each time. I'll start with a high price and go lower.
If more than 1 person bids in the 3 days, I'll sell to the highest bidder. I'll let all the bidders know if they won or lost only after the 3 day period.
If nobody bids at that price in 3 days, I'll lower the price and go another 3 days.
If you want to bid, send me a direct message (DM) with your bid that's equal to or higher than the listed price, you're payment method, and what you are bidding on.
Bids are retractable in the 3 day period, but are locked in at the end. If you win, you win.
Don't place any bids in this thread – they will be ignored.
I'll accept Paypal (buyer has to pay the fee), interact e-transfer or cash (if local). This isn't exhaustive, if there's a method I don't know about ask me and I'll see if I can accommodate it. I'm Canadian, so I can't do Venmo, sorry.
If you're unsure about how this works, ask in the thread for clarification.
Price Justification:
This post provides me with a general understanding of the value of these parts. While I don't anticipate receiving $800 and $200 for these items, I do require an initial price point. I plan to begin with highly optimistic figures on the initial period and gradually decrease from that point onward.
Auction:
First 3 day period: Midnight August 19th PST - to - Midnight August 22nd PST
Starting Minimum bid for the Control Panel: $900 USD + S&H
Starting Minimum bid for the Modchip: $250 USD + S&H
Instructions:
If you're interested in offering a bid that matches or surpasses these prices, please send me a DM. If you choose not to, you can wait for 3 days and hope that no one else places a bid during that time.
Notes:
As you can see in this thread, I am missing a couple cables, the solder guide and the header pins. I can give you header pins if you need them, but they aren't the originals. What you see is what you get. (Ignore the yellow cable). Shipping is from Vancouver Canada, I have instructions on this post as to calculate an upper bound for the shipping (it will probably be cheaper than that).
Moderators:
If this is against any rules; please inform me and I'll remove it asap and figure out some other way to sell them. I'm not trying to get in trouble, I'm just trying to be as fair to everyone as possible.
You can also move this thread if you need/want to.
@Bowlsnapper did you miss this message? Bidding just happened via dm’s on this forum.
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some versions of the DS3 are a pain to built back. I got a few with a PS3. They were dirty as hell, so took them apart and cleaned them, then the painful step was to put them back together. For some reason cannot get those annoying plastic inserts between the shoulder and triggers to fit.... I also have some that don't have these parts and easier to work on. PS4 or PS5 are much easier to work on
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@Dempsey_86 did you do any temperature and noise tests?
mine is pretty quiet with an 80mm noctua replacing the original fan an temperatures are quite ok. I would go for this solution if it doesn’t impact noise but improves cooling
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17 hours ago, WhiteBeard said:
Nope, that's the original shipping box it came in. I'm in a suburb of Vancouver, Canada.
I also have the never-installed X3 mod chip as well. I'll take a picture of it when I get home. I have no idea if that's desirable as well, though.
Hmm probably won’t win the auction since shipping prices usually are crazy high. Typical ebay auctions charge 100 dollar for shipping from US to Europe for a broken xbox. Anyway will do my best to drive op the price
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10 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I want it even without a blue fuckin case. I don't care if it matches or not. Lmao
Ok you got me convinced
now I needs to have it
@WhiteBeard I guess your shipping from Austria right?
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22 hours ago, ChronicHedgehog said:
The XBOXHD+ has the ability to output games in native resolution when 480p is enabled, bypassing internal scaling! Quite a difference.
I wonder how this guy did this. Retrotink doesn’t accept hdmi as an input. I have a retrotink 5x (considering getting the 4k after watching Bob’s stream @ retrorgb).
anyway I’m not convinced this is because of some AA filtering from XBOX. The XBOX itself doesn’t scale, it’s the XBOXHD that does the work. It outputs 1080p, or at least that is what I suspect. Of course it’s the 144 (or 288 not sure what twitter is using nowadays, and yes I refuse to call that platform it’s ridiculous one letter name). 1080p upscaling to 1440p always gives sharpness issues. It’s 1.333x scaling. 480p to 1440p is just simple 3x scaling. So it has to do extrapolation, so making up data
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I saw similar issues when playing with my PS4 on my 1440p monitor, it wasn’t as playing on my 1080p TV. I really started to notice the difference after hooking up my PS5 to the same monitor, the monitor can also downscale 4k to 2k. The sharpness difference was night and day.
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6 hours ago, WhiteBeard said:
Here's proof of life, to prove I'm not just making shit up.
You should have made a picture with a newspaper. This can be easily faked
Cool to see these things are still around. I would have been interested if I had a blue case
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@zono why fix the games when you can simply switch your XBOX to NTSC via Enigmah?
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Very nice blogpost and good news for the community!
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2 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
...SATA cable?
And props on the 1.4.
Yes, you can put this one directly on the IDE port on the motherboard. From there route a SATA cable to the drive. You still need a SATA power cable and I guess the adapter also requires power as wel.
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On 8/9/2023 at 3:57 AM, demayod said:
Has anyone tried one of these? Plugs into the connector on the motherboard and run a sata cable instead of the 80 wire. Or the startech ide2sat25 is a similar adapter using a sata cable. I have the chenyang in one box, and a startech ide2sat25 coming in the mail for another box. Not sure if they would support udma6, but seem to do fine with udma5. That said, is there a good way to test? Or would it simply not boot if it wasn't compatable with a certain udma?
Nice option if you plan to use without DVD drive. You can route the SATA cable more cleanly this way.
Might be nice option for my 1.4ghz xbox. Not planning to run games from DVD anyway and it will get Stellar so no need for DVD to set it up.
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8 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I know there are SSDs, and I appreciate you shedding a light on the pricing. But I need 2tb to sell them with the image I'm trying to set them up with. Also, Xboxes without the spinning HDD feel unbalanced to me and it's weird. Lol. I'm a bit of a purist in that regard and would like a regular HDD. Space for the price is also cheaper...
Don’t know about US prices, but here in NL 2TB SSD’s go for €72 vs €42 for HDD. If you’re getting them to sell I can imagine you don’t want to spend the extra 30 bucks. You probably can’t recover the investment.
I got myself a PS3 phat last week, was cheap and had a lot of controllers which was the main reason I bought it. Idea was to see if it works, clean it, upgrade HDD and install CFW to sell of the console. Anyway nowadays ssd’s are cheaper then the 2.5 inch counterparts
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On 8/4/2023 at 10:56 PM, prtscn said:
startech is good, because it supports all ata speeds, so you can use original cable. cheap adapters are 100/133 speeds only, 80pin cable required.
You need also 80 wire cable with startech adapters. I had my xbox working with a 40 wire cable + startech on UDMA2. Until after a couple of days the XBOX slowly wouldn’t boot anymore. Swapped the original 40 wire for a 80 wire and presto it worked again.
btw those startechs are also not perfect, they support the speeds but quality control isn’t that great. First one I got was DOA. Replacement worked, but I read more people running into these issues with startechs.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
RGB-S/SCART Output
in General Xbox Discussion
Posted
Look at a GBS control to downscale to 240p. It’s a good and relatively cheap solution for your problem https://www.retrorgb.com/gbs-control-installation-overview.html