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rjfony

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About rjfony

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  • Birthday 12/28/1986
  1. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do. Those 3rd party controllers are all crap -- every single one of them. Look around the internet for a replacement OEM controller. Make sure there are good pics of the controller. Check out the joysticks for signs of wear indicating heavy use. If at all possible, try your best to stay away from controllers made in Malaysia due to brittle plastic
  2. No doubt. I was just thinking overkill. I wonder if the rechargeable battery idea could work with a regular aa battery charger and a relay. The charger would be wired straight to 115 vac. Then, use a relay that switches to the leaky cap contact when power is lost. You would still want to use a 3 volt battery though. 2 1.5s might cause problems if you connect positive to negative during a charge. It should work. The only potential problem might be if the relay fails and your motherboard let's out all the magic blue smoke.
  3. If you are gonna go the battery route why not just grab a couple of these 1.2v batteries and hook them up in series with a diode. You could probably run your clock for a year on them. https://www.batteryjunction.com/nidsi50mahre.html Or, if keeping the time with an unplugged xbox is your thing, just throw a few more in there, 2 at a time in parallel, and you could probably get 10 years of battery clock power.
  4. You should invest in a proper hot air rework station. Heat guns are not designed for removing or soldering components. There is no way to control the heat setting, and the heat disperses way too far. This can damage components that you are not intending to heat up. A hot air rework station will allow you to control the temperature and also allow you to direct the heat to exactly where you need it.
  5. I still plan on getting to this project. Christmas, overtime at work, and other xbox projects have put it on hold. I fully intend on getting around to it, but it likely won't be until sometime in January.
  6. It is a Samsung. When I power it on via eject button with or without a disc, it will not eject the tray. The belt is ok. I shrunk it a bit anyway. I have replaced the ribbon cable, and still no luck. I ordered a couple of xboxes from goodwill. Whenever they arrive I'll swap dvd drives.
  7. I have a Halo special edition Xbox with an unsightly crack on the case on the top left section of the X. So that will have to be covered. What I'm thinking about doing is making a plaster mold using the lid. Then I will order some plexiglass and hopefully attempt to drape mold it in my oven using the plaster mold. After that I will do some cutting with a dremel and replace the X on the green lid with the newly created X. Do you think this will work? Does anyone have any tips or suggestions? What color combination do you think might go well? That yellowish green background color of the halo cas
  8. Hey, Thanks. Thats what I feared. Can I swap it with any xbox dvd drive? I'm sure I can scrounge one up from somewhere. Hopefully I can even score a revision 1.0 xbox.
  9. No mods. Its stock. When I power it on by pressing the eject button, they tray does not open. In this case, pressing the manual eject does not cause it to go to the dashboard. When I power it on with the tray ejected, the tray will retract. I cannot eject it and make it fo to the dashboard. It seems to only work when powering up by pressing the power button, then manually ejecting the tray. The hard drive seems to be working. Game saves are still there. There is some music saved on the hard drive that will play.
  10. When I turn on my Xbox, it gets stuck on the Xbox startup screen and never makes it to the dashboard. There is a flashing green light. It will not load games. When I eject the DVD drive via the paperclip hole, it then goes right to the dashboard and the green light stops flashing. It still won't load any games. Did my DVD drive fail?

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