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sweetdarkdestiny

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Everything posted by sweetdarkdestiny

  1. Here is one F version : https://www.ebay.com/itm/133369324337?hash=item1f0d6e6331:g:twwAAOSwTAheeSQ~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwMikTZWNWQyJ0mJPMkg0XQmDLZtPzz0rrKHYPXmIr7uOy1avNVGPOScsIs4%2FoKaHj7SaIT%2B91L%2FIXwG2V5%2BHS4WKgAgPb45MPrSxsarnfNmK1a9z7jlhEXzd3Tk6Z903%2Ff%2FXkmBwHyS9lkBUUV0o4pkLwMtx4lURy%2F8lktXN3jTAHUhvPOfN%2F7mK7tgdCMP3JzlQOK8oNsZTxVqOaP3MkTohR4peYD6%2F24d3XnIDfIw4W36YOYxWpsm4HTT%2BgKy39w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4Lh15GBYg And here you see a Q version : https://www.ebay.com/itm/134336335241?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3Df93a345522134764969a22f5e6f68881%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D133369324337%26itm%3D134336335241%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedCompV5WithHighAdFeeWithKnnRecallV1PostRankerMode1%26brand%3DSamsung&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A134336335241f93a345522134764969a22f5e6f68881|enc%3AAQAIAAABMG%2FKEDlqLdMpXK6LXw6GlU56Zw4wYURwylzXypLdrkDpqX4rhH%2FdtS8EQDFtwWB%2B%2BiGXe%2FXDQbbG4mzv%2Bu0HzH1cqaYT27ceBTtaq4bXZDVVHGngocf0VLYAPTrie6liL5glXNVPmqcBZ9%2BcHrf6KhxYdolf5CQZrO4JzO3qOs01KzWuYly9MA%2B%2BCTSjUfNKMo7ZOMsz6aZ9UMh0kqwPdTlbctjOdQ8GY6BngPdyJc49y1LHxPguINAdYeUAlYE1BTlcBj%2FuGAqL0%2FycaYYZu3jHdtjldH3kR%2Bkz9CaDv%2B0fgtrVe46q56M1xtPyGQfEXqj7kMTbZBxkZ02rkmt0XE4Lg2A9lanxHQYV30uiu%2FZqGIkabSt9nu228%2Bj2kDxQqfaQrmHHxLorGNqA9EHtCXc%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675 If the drive you search for didn't has the smaller sticker with the version info you are looking for, don't buy it.
  2. You should be able to flash/reflash) it anyway if I'm not mistaken. Edit: It's a software for windows to flash the drive. There is also a version of it for the 8164b which I used many times from the same coder.
  3. I desoldered the TSOP and used a TL866-II plus to flash it usin this decryptet dump file : https://1fichier.com/?660lpb8ofp0j6cmunluc If you have an XP PC on hand, you could try this : https://1fichier.com/?5nkbyak7ld5wqhgkiao2 (MAYBE a bootable LiveXP would do but not to sure)
  4. I have flashed some but with an external flasher because I had the same issue. So, as primary master you could try : SF8163 8050L.dld 0 /f /c /p /o OR SF8163 8050L.dld 0 /f /c /p /o /r
  5. And no. 3 is here ( ~ Skip first 6 hours) :
  6. The 1.6 didn't work with the CC removed. And a picture of the mainboard would be nice.
  7. Here you go : https://imgur.com/a/jDwsgQv
  8. C1B1 100uF 25V C1E1 3300uF 6.3V C1E2 3300uF 6.3V C1F2 3300uF 6.3V C1G10 3300uF 6.3V C1G7 22uF 25V C1G9 22uF 25V C2B2 1500uF 6.3V C2E2 3300uF 6.3V C2G4 22uF 25V C3B1 10uF 16V C3G8 22uF 25V C4G5 22uF 25V C5G2 1500uF 6.3V C6A1 10uF 16V C6A3 10uF 16V C6G2 100uF 25V C6G3 22uF 25V C7G3 22uF 25V C7A2 22uF 25V C7B5 47uF 16V C7G11 22uF 25V C7F1 1500uF 6.3V C8C1 1F 2.5v (Clock Cap) C8E3 22uF 25V C8F5 100uF 25V C8G1 22uF 25V https://wiki.console5.com/wiki/Microsoft_Xbox#v1.6
  9. You can't make any changes with Evtool because it's basicly not an EvoX bios anymore.
  10. That hurts. I have 100MB/s DL and 40MB/s UL and pay 35,-€ for that (+5,-€ for HDTV over ISP). And the next lvl 250MB/s would just be 5,- € more. In case you already have fibre here (pretty rare) you pay 50,- € for 500MB/s DL / 100MB/s UL.
  11. Torrents are evil. At least thats my opinion. A freehost would be nice. Even you would need a premium acc you always get full speed and you are more or less save on downloads. And Achive.org is awful slow for me. Depending on the size of the full CCI set, I could provide up to 1.5TB space on my prem. 1ficher. I could set up an FTP account for uploads there if you want.
  12. Just a little update for those of you who are not able to do the microsoldering on the traces. So here is the solution for you. Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/k8lVPVn And before anyone ask, yes it works and fits perfectly.
  13. The only, more or less, valid point I gave Dustin is " we can't support it because of legeal reasons ". However, with this in mind, he should also not support TITAN/EvoX in anyway even TITAN is just a patch it could be considered as "warez" because it's for a hacked/non legal bios. So in my opinion, he would need to write a hole new bios from scatch (Not to sure about the US laws here) or use something like cromwell as base which than would mean no games can run on it. To me that all just sounds like excuses. If he cant do it/is not willing to do it, why not provide some infos to team cerbios so they can add support for his stella/hd+ in a gentleman's agreement way not to leak any shit ever (both of them are closed source right?)? And yeah I know, money makes the world go round and that probably the only real reason here. So even I repeat my self, I consider MakeMHz as new Xecuter and even they supportet all bioses. ^^
  14. "And" wasn't the question and Dave took the chance to add to his post count. * And now I should run pretty fast *
  15. If he has an v1.0 XBlastOS will cause problems on the OX. https://github.com/Ryzee119/OpenXenium/issues/6
  16. That ofc could be possible. Jokes a side, I guess the problem was that I wasn't aware af the fact that pin 29 and 31 are bridget internally and in combination with me tracing down the L1/D0/HD on the Aladdin PCB from Ryzee I didn't noticed that L1 isn't connectet to the pin like it's on the Xeno chip. However, this rises the question if you could connect pin 31 to DO (pin 29) as well as it seems to me that both "do the same". If that would be possible it would not be needed to lift that one pin. I guess, I will try that on the next chip.
  17. Ladies and people without boobs, problem solved. As we all know, i's never the fault of the guy on the iron except when it is. So the poblem was RS -> L1 -> Pin 30 (B9) which is actualy Pin 29 and goes to D0 instead of L1 and the other problem was E (Pin 31 (B10)) which didn't goes on L1 on the Xenochip. And to take it a little step further, there is no pad at all you could solder E (Pin 31) on the Xeno. So to solve that you need to lift the pin 31 a bit and solder strait to that pin. After that the Xeno will work with Ryzee's mod. 2 bad pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DNKfMIB EDIT: Maybe @KaosEngineer you would be so nice to edit the topic title to : [Solved] AladdinLCD mod with Xeno Modchip Thanks.
  18. Yes, found that mod after talking with Lukas. But atm, I don't want to order any PCB's, just want to recycle the 2 Xeno Lite I have laying here. And I still have 50 XBlast-Lite PCB's here but not all parts for them atm (If you need/want some of the PCB's drop me a PM and I send you some over 4free. ).
  19. Alright, I MAYBE found the problem but to confirm my theory, I would need some help since I do not have any of these clones hand Ryzee uses for his mod. I have measured the LPC to Lattice connections. Picture here : https://imgur.com/a/EovhqKE Now it would be nice if someone who has one of these clones on hand could measure of the pinout matches with mine or if there are differences and if where. Check for the Edit button to wörk.... It seems to be that the pin assiment is the problem. The svf file says: LPC Pinout : https://imgur.com/a/fDCm2xe
  20. Hey. Today I found the time to do the mod. However, I didn't used a AladdinXT clone, I used an Xenochip lite modchips I have laying around. Both have the same LC4032v, connect them in the same way to the pads so what can go wrong right? So the problem I have is that the display did not display anything. It lights up and I have fancy black blocks on it but, thats it. X4G is setup for it right (contrast to 20%) and I know that the display works (testet with an SmartXX). Some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/GHOxLqr Pinout, solder points checked as shown below : RS -> L1 -> Pin 30 (B9) E -> D0 -> Pin 31 (B10) (And also to Pin 29 (B8). Checked that on a non modded chip and it's the same.) Vo -> HD -> Pin 9 (A10) RW -> Ground. D7 -> SST Pad 10 -> Pin 43 (A3) D6 -> SST Pad 11 -> Pin 42 (A2) D5 -> SST Pad 13 -> Pin 41 (A1) D4 -> BT -> Pin 26 (B7) VSS & Backlight- -> Pin 27 (Ground) VCC & Backlight+ -> NONE, just the pin from the LPC header. Note: Just 1 huge ground on the Xenochip Lite. So any help would be welcome.
  21. Ofc you're right. If you would have to pay one to repair this, it's beyond economical repair. And it takes some skills too to repair this. I was just talking about doing it for fun and the cheating thing was just a little joke. #DaveIsAlwaysSoSerious
  22. Come on, that is cheating.
  23. Am I the only one here who thinks that it would be quite some fun to fix?

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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