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Worked like a charm!! Thank you. I sent recovery.bin via ftp to E:\ drive on Xbox. Ran recovery by way of switch on mod and fixed. Thanks much Gary

Added a spicier set of art for the Big Ass Emulator Discs..... For those you who like a bit of spice on your dashboard Here's the included fanart for a preview...

Gotcha. I guess my confusion comes from that my current issue started after I swapped the caps. I’ll definitely swap out the five silver 6.3v ones as you suggested. I was just verifying if using those 10v ones where I did would be an issue. Since you don’t seem to think that is an issue then I grow concerned as to what potential damage I did to the mobo when I swapped them lol. I hope I didn’t mess anything up but it seems possible to me at this point if the caps were fine there. Reason being as I said, it worked before I touched anything…

My first pc had dual 5 1/4” floppy drives and 4kb of ram with no hdd. Lol.

startech and similar brands, supports multiple ata interface speeds - you can use stock 40pin cable. chinese, limited ata interface support, so you need to use 80pin cable. some cheap adapters support 40pin cable, hit or miss. inferior build quality. personally i use chinese adapter, no problems. 2tb hdd no problems.

Boot lag and loading speed is the major setback with the cheap adapters. Yes, Amazon still has the Startech adapter for less than $20 shipped If you're in the US. StarTech.com IDE to SATA Hard Drive or Optical Drive Adapter Converter, 40-Pin PATA to 2.5" SATA HDD / SSD / ODD Converter https://a.co/d/eOy9piG

I don't see where anyone said they wouldn't work. As I mentioned earlier, it's perfectly fine to recap the entire board. I have several that have been fully recapped. In your case, you just replaced the wrong caps for your issue. Think of it like taking your car to the shop due to bad front brakes and they replace your rear brakes instead. Of course they're new brakes, but it's not doing anything to fix the front set. Hope that doesn't make things more confusing.

After researching that adapter, it seems that it is limited to certain UDMA speeds, and lags significantly at boot when using a DVD-ROM drive (unplugged DVD drive leads to instant boot times). The design may have been improved upon since the postings that I have found, but really: The Startech is 20 bucks. That's an hour of work in this drowning economy. A cheapo adapter is, on average, 7-10 dollars. I have always used Startechs and have blasted away at UDMA-6 with perfect reliability and snappy speeds with every one. The cheapos have issues and not great quality control. Several end up DOA. As long as it's one box, I don't see what the reason would be for not just getting one. You know it'll work and it'll perform. Whereas with a cheapo, you saved a whopping 12 dollars once and now may have to spend money again because it may not meet expectations. Now, if you were buying in bulk to mod consoles regularly, then yes, that would add up and you may wanna figure out a way to use them often without many problems. But for one personal build, I'd say Startech, and it's worth the extra money.

I use Startech whenever possible tbf. I have had mixed results with the China adapter 1 on that page. Some worked fine, others worked for a while then died, some were DOA. Build quality does vary a LOT on the cheaper Sata adpaters in my experience. I used to buy them in batches of 10 and ALWAYS had at least 3 in each batch that were DOA. A Startech is pretty much guaranteed to work without issues for a long time.

Yeah I looked up the red/orange and saw it was a ram issue. The odd thing was that it sometimes tosses green in there too. Like flickers between green and orange for a couple seconds. Then goes red/orange. Not all the time though. Also could you all explain to me why you think the 3300 10v caps wouldn’t work there. Looking at the old caps and according to the wiki interactive board that should be what goes there. Unfortunately I have to get new ones either way (beyond the leaking one that needs replaced) cause the legs are damaged and or/very short.

look here: https://www.xbox-scene.info/forums/topic/340-ide-to-sata-adapter-compatibility-thread/#comment-571

The problem with the generic adapters is the quality control isn't really there. Each one of the same model may work well or may not. And the generic adapters vary in compatibility in general. There are 2-3 different interface chips AFAIK. The XBox doesn't like all of them.

My first PC had a 20MB hard card. SSHDs are hard drives with some flash memory that stores frequently accessed blocks. So the weight is there and they do have some noise, but they are usually quiet drives.

I've never used the StarTech brand IDE > SATA adapter. There are three Xboxes I have fitted with SATA HDDs and all are of the same generic design which was recommended on another forum well over a decade ago now. All bought at different times over the years since then too and I've not had any problems with them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NFHK-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B09GPGFLWB Important thing are having the jumper pins. some similar designs don't and are, presumably, Cable Select only. Typical price everywhere is £8/$10 or less.

Linked below is my eBay seller account. https://www.ebay.com/usr/vanislandtech

Remember a decade or so ago it was strongly advised to ONLY buy StarTech brand SATA / IDE adapters. I remember them costing around $20 USD. Is this still the case? What is yours experiences? Are the $3 USD cheap Chinese ones on eBay acceptable?

Running this in a slim was one of the first things I thought of. It’s got me thinking how low can it go, if for instance you only want to run emulation for old arcade cabs that only ran games with a few hundred k of ram, the cpu requirement is a couple of hundred mega or less. Thinking fanless box and silent running.

@flintboy22 Art for the Big Ass Emulator Discs is now available in the thread linked below. Custom XBMC4Gamers art thread I have some "spicier" versions on the way later on today

looks dangerous

Would probably be worth going over the mobo and check for any solder splashes/bridges and see if that might be causing the current orange red boot up. Since you’ve been soldering and all. Just thought I’d throw it out there.

That's a RAM error too... Orange and red.

Shipping available from Vancouver Island, BC in Western Canada. Shipping to majority of USA via Canada Post "Expedited Parcel" is an additional $45 USD. Shipping to majority of Canada via Canada Post "Regular Parcel" is $50 CDN.

I figured out the issue was due to some problem in the DVD drive. This drive functions correctly and reads games, and works great in any other console. It only seems to cause issues in this console so I swapped it for another and the problem is gone. That's not really a fix but I don't have the time or energy to track down why this one off weird incompatibility exists.

I can’t say I’ve ever run across one of those before. I’ve seen where people have made it adapt but never anything with an actual adapter. Lol. Cool.

Nobody mentioned that the thing is right below the edge of the CPU heatsink enclosure. Working an iron around in there without accident sure took a minute. Results. Played Metal Wolf Chaos for a while with 20% fan and at room temperature. Cpu used to reach like 53C. Right after IGR'ing... Whoa. Then watched The Super with 10% fan. Cpu used to hit 49C now it peaks at 38C (shows 39C only because of running the menu during video playback). The xbox ran about three hours with no freezes, lags, etc.. For context I'm running a slimbox with a puny 60mm case fan which sees CPU temps of up to 64C on hot days unless the fan speed is so high it's noisy. Noisy fans and 64C suck. Maybe after all these years I can stop worrying about the ol' box croaking from heat stroke, lol. That was a genius discovery you made, OP. GENIUS I SAY!