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I moved to France and I don't have a transformer of power to step down to 110v. I have a PC ATX PSU with 16amps on 3.3, 5v, and 12v. There is also a +5vsb. Can I just match the voltages from the original PSU (delta and functional) from the ATX PSU? Does 1.6b have 3.3v or 5v standby? I really don't mind if I have to power the Xbox on and off from the ATX PSU itself and I don't mind that the supply will sit outside of the box. So can I skip the power STB and OK? Are there other concerns about connecting an ATX PSU other than non matching pinouts? My ATX PSU is a DSP-220U B-3A In France I am having a hard time finding a 240v PSU without having to buy a whole console which is a bit pricy. I could get a transformer, but I don't trust the ones I see on the market that are not huge black boxes. My Xbox: 1.6b (xcaliber video encoder with hynix ram) Xecuter 3 modded with X3CP 2TB SATA HDMI via Nintendo Wii adapter

Good ideas. I removed the cap from the circuit and intensity didn't change. I was wondering if it was possibly failing and becoming a short. I will grab a toothbrush and clean up the connector. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I have a new cap and SPDIF port on the way. The SPDIF port was very worn out from decades of use anyway. I don't have any high intensity LEDs around to experiment with unfortunately. I do have an old PC SPDIF bracket but didn't really feel like desoldering it as that port won't fit well with the XBox adapter anyway (I have it for an old nForce MCP-D motherboard ).

On 1.6 consoles, RGB Scart (no video) , S-video (noise) , composite (noise and color artifacts) Only Component is working properly, for CRT afficionados EvolutionX M8+ is still a goto bios This is Only affecting 1.6 , my other boxes are smooth with Cerbios (ssds , UDMA5 all the jazz) , but the 1.6 is only revision that does proper RGB so it would be nice to have it working

Had I waited just a couple days, I would have saved myself the effort of designing this pico zero pcb I ordered just a couple days before the "official" one was posted on GitHub . Made it according to the schematic for the regular pico so it uses different pins than the "official" one and I didn't add any resistors. Works wonderfully using the regular pico image, with a mayflash magic ns I already had as a receiver for an xbox one controller. Only problem is that I can't seem to get rumble working with this config which is probably some compatibility issue with the mayflash adapter. I'll have to test it wired to confirm. Now to solder a few more of these and order those usb c cables!

Updated to 1.3.0 Changelog in the description.

That capacitor is just to smooth power goes into the SPDIF port. It has nothing to do with the actual signal itself. Start by cleaning the AVIP cable and port connections. It's possible you have some dust causing poor contact. Try connecting a generic high intensity red LED between the outer legs of the existing SPDIF port and directing that into your SPDIF cable. If that works but the port does not, it's the SPDIF port burning out. Also try using the SPDIF output from the xbox to another device like a cheap Cmedia CM6206LX USB sound card or Turtle beach DSS. Try another device with SPDIF audio out to your current sound system (again cheap CM6206LX sound card is great for this).

Thanks for the tips. I will look over it again. It is of course possible the cabling has hidden damage too. But all the visible wiring looks ok. The optical port is rather worn out though. It had a broken solder joint and the little door barely closes. I wonder if an electrical arc from a broken solder joint could damage it. The port connection also has a lot of play in it. I dug around Digikey and found a replacement emitter assembly that looks remarkably similar to the original, and also bought a replacement cap. We'll see what happens!

This is causing some memories to surface. After playing with these prebuilt releases from around the web, and finding IGR non-working, I looked around more and found the github with python patcher: https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan I patched an original m8 Plus myself and the patch itself is what disables IGR. I don't think you can load the final patched builts into EVTool.

Sorry, no ini. I was mixed up. With EVTool, you couldn't enable IGR to work?

I didn't have any INI in use. I think I tried EVTool on it. Actually I think I even tried taking the original m8 Plus and patching it myself and the patch caused IGR to be disabled.

It may have been a non-standard button combo. Or more likely, or hard-coded off with EVtools when patching.

These 128MB EVOX ROM modifications. I think they are based on m8 plus? I tried a few of the UDMA builds for non-HDMI systems on my v1.0 and IGR wasn't functional. I also found some talk elsewhere about IGR not working with it.

@tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.

There is not currently an "open-source" or alternative solution to this adapter (communicator). Although with all the Halo 2-ness that is happening, a solution is being explored by multiple people. I know that alternative sources for the existing supported chipset are being explored as well as possibly other solutions. A generic audio adapter will not work, as far as I am aware.

Looks like you’ve started to lose strands here. I’m assuming this is the cable that the case has ruined, as you mentioned. I don’t see anywhere else that I would personally start my troubleshooting. If you’re capable, I’d repair that connection and see what happens.

What does “these” reference?

Dang, thanks, I just check it. Thanks a lot!

now 5

So would using a USB MIC/Headset work through the controller if I do not have a OG Communicator / headset?

If I remember right IGR does not work with these.

I think they are available on Etsy. I bought one there about a year ago. It works well. I've been using it with an 8bitdo wireless adapter and primarily a XBO or PS4 pad. There is a quirk in that the 8bitdo won't pair with the controllers on power up unless I press its connect button.

A few more photos. It is so incredibly basic inside. I had to repair the green component output years ago because the horrible molding caused a wire to eventually break. They charged $50 for this! I don't know if I think a wire is broken. Moving the cable around while it's operating doesn't affect anything. Analog audio and component video are working fine. A cap replacement is easy to find but I'm not sure how to shop for an emitter.

Could also be a broken wire inside the cable not making it detect signal perhaps?

Not much to replace there... There's a ceramic capacitor, but I think those rarely go bad... Maybe try replacing both that and the SPDIF LED module?

My HD AV Pack is no longer outputting a working optical audio signal. The receiver acts as if nothing is connected. The AV box is producing the red light but it is noticeably dimmer when compared to my TV's optical output. I tried two optical cables and two XBoxes. Inside the HD AV pack, the optical audio section is on a mini PCB and has a tantalum cap, as shown in the photo. Could this cap be going bad and causing the LED to dim?