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Hi all, Sorry if this is the wrong section but not sure if this is softmod or tsop so put it here. After having help to update my original xbox (thank you) I have since found the first unit that wife bought me in 2002. I thought it had been softmodded and slayers installed. Today I opened it up as I want to fit a 200gb sata hdd that I have spare and was surprised to see that it has had some kind of chip fitted in the past. It's a lot of years since this was last used and tbh I don't remember having a modchip. It has the stock hard drive and the manufacture date of sept 2002. It has Evox M7 and dash is +3921 if that is of any help. I just need to know if I am safe to carry on and install the 500gb hdd. If anyone can work out what has been done originally I would love to know, from my limited knowledge so far I wondered if it needed a chip fitted temporarily to flash them back then.

chimp clones to new HDD with out problems but i get error 16 when i put in the new drive after cloning. i tried the 'fix error 16' button in chimp, it said it was good but when i put back in the new HDD i still get Error 16. The stock 10GB HDD i got with the xbox still works if i connect it. i then tired booting the xbox with the 10GB HDD then turning off the xbox and putting in the new HDD but then i got error 13. plz help i already spent like 70$$ on this shit. my xbox is soft modded i removed the clock capacitor i have a compatible HDD, 40-pin/80-wire IDE cables, a working SATA to IDE converter Thank you

My family absolutely adores our original xbox. It was modded back in the day with an Xecuter v2.6 chip with is connected to the debug pins, and a few other misc spots. I didn't get to the clock chip in time, and corrosion ate through the tiny edge traces under the board. I've tried repairing it, but it's beyond me... once it warms up, it goes crazy on/off eject/close... I have another 1.0 motherboard and figured I could use that as a replacement, then cross the HDD Key when I got there. So I followed the pinout of the original motherboard and replicated its connections, installed the new motherboard in the original's case and sure enough, Code 6... So I softmodded the new mobo with its original HDD with the Rocky setup and null'd the hard drive. I swapped the HDD back to my original and still no good... I've read that hard-modded xboxes are capable of working better with non-locking HDDs, so I'm hoping there's something I can do to get this new motherboard communicating with my original hard drive. I really would like to keep the content that we have on there. Is there any hope? Thanks in advance!

Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there. My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios). Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3. Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens. Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard: Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems. Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging. So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice? Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

I bought a cheap sata to ide adaptor to do a 2tb install, after completion I was getting crazy long wait times for the xbox to even load it was such a disappointment . Buy cheap buy twice! I have a startech one now and it works fine completely night and day. This forum has helped me loads already thank you.

Hey everybody!! I hope you're having a fantastic day!!! I just opened up my XBOX V1.1 that, (18 years ago) I soldered a single core wire strand through from the back of the board to the top of the board. I cannot recall the specific tech that I was following from way way way back when, but I can't find any sort of photos online covering exactly what I was doing at the time!?? All I can remember from all of this memory delving is the phrase "If the bios is corrupted, then the TSOP will boot from backup", or something to that specific ilk. None of the TSOP bridging points are exacting the nature of what I did. The box was 100%%% operational to previous stock constraints, booting every time that I powered on, without a hitch, stutter or glitch, for about 4 years or so of operation. I did set the clock after each boot (which probably does mean that I still need to replace the clock capacitor), however I cannot see any specific electrolyte leakage on the board surrounding that capacitor, which is interesting. Anyway. I soldered to one specific junction on the back and taped the other end in place on the top - the tape has since disappeared along with the end of the wire that I was passing through the specific through port junction on the top of the board. I don't know where I was jumping the wire to. I can't find anyone doing this specific procedure concerning TSOP/General Repair at the current point? Is this an outmoded repair? Did people just stop doing this? What on earth was I doing? Anyway, the photos are attached, and I'm WILDLY interested to know what memories might be jogged from anyone's experience repairing the OG XBOX after seeing these photos.

Hello all, Always finding away back to the xbox scene and loving it!