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Hi and hope someone could help. Manged to discover my old man had my 1.1 xbox that i molded with xcecuter hard ware sonwqnt3d to get it up and running for kids. Removed clock cap as that was giving me boot errors and once that was removed instant into peometheos. But when I try to flash bank with cerbios or and other I get failed validation. Is there a special bin I need as I sing the stock one from xbins. It's all original hard drive and dvd rom in there as well. That's the next step. Also to mention I do have dvd rom issue ejection so can't use the disc as also so blank dvds either.

You probably know me by the now. The guy who can’t seem to repair his traces. Well, I tried again, now with a new wire. Did it work? You know where this is going. I turned it on, and the light just stayed green. There was no video as well. Then, the fans started going wild and I’ve never heard anything like it! Finally, the light FRAGGED. Flashing red and green. So, shit. I made it worse! I really thought about giving up, but I think I can save it. I just opened it up and took pictures of the trace repair. I’ll be real with ya, I did a shit job. The new wire I did was pretty bad, I shaved way too much of the wire (its the white one). And there are still the old wires there that use the wrong wire with. That black one is just CRIMINAL. I also didn’t really clean off the flux, and now I know it’s conductive, which I should have before. Finally, with that ripped pad, I'm not sure if that's where you wanted me to put the wire. Sorry if I'm stupid, I would just need visuals. They’re desoldered now, and I hope that that’ll fix the FRAG. I did check for bridges, but nothing. Even used a multimeter on a trace that looked weird, but it was fine. The images are below. Sorry if they look bad, my camera ain’t good. Anyway, do you think this could have caused the FRAG, and where did I go wrong? Thanks!

hi can anyone help? when i download files from internet archive hdd ready files for my og xbox when i go to play them all i get is the disc you are using must be damaged or dirty ???. help

Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.

Hey all, I have a 1.6 aladdin chipped xbox that runs perfectly fine with stock hdd. I received a 1.0 a while back that the original owner had no idea what him and his kid had done to it, as it was so long ago. The mobo is pretty bad, but it had a WD2000 200gb ide hdd in it. So I yanked the hdd out, and threw it in my 1.6. Upon booting with no disk, I was greeted to Error 16. Reboot and I got an Error 13, which is persistent when booting with no disk. When attempting to boot any game, be it official or burned, I get an error 21. I figured it wouldn't boot to anything other than errors, but I have never done this so I was curious what exactly I would be greeted with. I then threw a verified working copy of Hexen 2018 in the dvd drive, where the linux logo and red ring popped up. It usually takes this drive about 30 seconds to load it up, but I am stuck at a persistent loading screen. Downloaded Hexen 2021 and the OGXbox installer disk and the same thing happened. I did, however, manage to get Slayer 2.7 to load up. Slayer is telling me that I have no free space in any of my partitions, and it states the I have an HDD unlock fail. I tried locking and unlocking the drive with no success. I've tried formatting and reinstalling EvolutionX and MS dashboard, and the whole process only takes about 8 seconds, so it's obviously not doing anything. Also my hdd activity light only blinks like twice. My questions is, is the hdd toasted? It's spinning and gaining heat, so I know it's not completely dead. I've never messed with xbox hard drives before so any advice would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for making yet another thread so soon after the last one, I just have a few projects going at the same time and I keep running into issues lol. I swear I'm not trying to litter up the forum lol. Thank you so much for your help.

I apologize if this topic is already been talked about but anyways I was downloading some dashboard files during a softmod dashboard uninstall then the powers got cut and now it's throwing up a error 13 or 14. I've heard Hexen can be used to fix this but I'm not sure. Thanks.

Got a version 1.0 that is flashing orange (high temp) immediately after power up. ADM1032 chip looks good and meters out fine for power and I2C bus connections, but when I throw a logic analyzer on the bus, it never returns a READ response. 1.958481000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.958792500000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.959192000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.959548000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK 1.960861500000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + NAK Compare that to a "good" box I have than returns both MB and CPU temps over and over during the boot process. 1.069577000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + ACK 1.069807500000000,I2C,'1' + ACK 1.070072000000000,I2C,Setup Read to ['153'] + ACK 1.070300500000000,I2C,'24' + NAK 1.070584000000000,I2C,Setup Write to ['152'] + ACK 1.070815000000000,I2C,'0' + ACK 1.071078000000000,I2C,Setup Read to ['153'] + ACK 1.071306000000000,I2C,'23' + NAK Before I replace it, any other thoughts? Clock cap was still on the board, but actually looked pretty good (minimal leakage), and the ADM1032 and surrounding area has been cleaned several times with IPA.

Tried to solder the pads for a 1.4 and ended up removing a solder pad. When I try flash it just gets stuck at erasing the 0 percent shows. My solder skills aren't the greatest so I'm not surprised. I've since got some conductive paint/glue and tsop flashed a 1.1 successfully. Is there any other way I can manage to tsop flash this Xbox even though the pads gone?

Hello, I have xbox ver 1.6, delta power supply gives 4,3 volt instead of 5v and the same drive hdd does not start. 12 volts is ok Capacitors have been replaced, but they are still the same. Do you have any idea what to check. The capacitor is 5v but on the output is already 4,3 volts