jeffl
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Posts posted by jeffl
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Do I have additional troubleshooting options?
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30 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
There DOES look to be a LOT of electrolyte damage... Unless that's just dust. In which case, yes, it could use a little cleaning.
@jeffl That thing has some problems. Maybe the heating thing and the frag are two different problems. I have no idea what they could be though.
I cleaned the board today. Dust is no more.
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I found a spare v1.4 that I didn't realize I had (is now the time to admit that I have a problem?). The IC legs that Fringle pointed out are also bridged on that board.
The spec near C6D4 that OGXbox Admin pointed out is no longer there. The suspected tombstone looks the same on the other v1.4 board.
After applying new thermal paste to the CPU and GPU, the behavior is now dependent on whether the system has warmed up.
1) If cold booting, the console attempts to 3x boot before FRAGing.
2) If system has warmed up, I get flashing orange and then power off.
I've attached a picture of the temperature IC at U6F1.
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4 minutes ago, ChriZz said:
I haven't read everything yet. But did the Xbox even work before or is it some kind of eBay victim? I also recently had this QUESTION in connection with 3 restarts. It was due to the damaged reset line (pin4) on the lpc. The previous owner simply fried them away. But it was repairable.
Seller sold as "for parts or not working". I think he just meant untested. The console booted to stock dash when I fired it up for the first time. I only let it run for 2 mins. No stress testing. Someone had been inside it though. What was done inside I do not know.
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36 minutes ago, Fringle said:
It's possible that it is suppose to be like that, I'm not sure as I don't have that revision of board here to look at and all of mine are screwed down in cases at the moment. With the FRAG you're describing it's really hard to narrow down as it could be a corrupted eeprom, hardware fault, corrupted Tsop, etc.. It doesn't take much to corrupt a tsop and since it's only a 256k on a 1.4 a working modchip installation would be your only fix. I'm not sure if there is a fix for a corrupted eeprom without a known good backup.
I will probably hold off on IC repair for now. I ordered CPU paste and will perform that work when it arrives.
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40 minutes ago, Fringle said:
Not to sure about this one but it looks like the legs could be bridged/shorted together. I suspect if there was one blob of solder there are probably more.
The legs are bridged. I can't find high res pictures of a 1.4 mobo to compare to. I assume that any time IC pins are bridged that it is an anomaly but I'm very hesitant to attempt a repair. Should I proceed?
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21 minutes ago, Fringle said:
Looks like it could be a damaged trace or lifted pad.
Fortunately just a solder blob that I subsequently cleaned up.
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I desoldered the pin header from the LPC. Now the behavior is to attempt 3x boot prior to orange flashing, eventually powering off. Consolemods wiki indicates this is an overheating problem or a problem with the temperature sensor at U6F1. Visual inspection does not reveal anything. I will follow the wiki's advice to clean the temp IC and to replace the thermal paste on the CPU and GPU.
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I appreciate all the tips. I am still really puzzled. How the poor soldering on the pin header could be causing my issue of FRAGing with no D0 grounding and no modchip is not clear to me but I will reflow nonetheless. LPC pin continuity to the "baldbouncer" test points all check out as I noted in my original post.
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The previous picture was not my console. I used baldbouncer's LPC diagnostic diagram from the posting on ogxbox.
Here is my console. I am aware that the soldering is terrible and that I need to improve.
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Removing the chip (though leaving in the pin header) does not result in a boot to stock. Visual inspection of both sides of the mobo reveal no damage or solder blobs.
Let me offer some additional info in case it is relevant. The seller of this xbox posted it as "for parts or not working". After discussing with him, he indicated that he bought the contents of a storage locker and had no interest in testing it to verify operation. I could see that the console was previously opened up although there were no signs inside of modification. No signs of a soft mod in the stock dash. While I verified operation when I first brought the console home, I don't think I verified operation after removing the clock cap. I double checked that I removed the correct cap for 1.4. I am not clear how one determines that the console is in a clock boot loop or if this would apply to me (perhaps the console was soft-modded but booted to stock dash).
I'm puzzled at how I could have arrived in this situation. I'm wondering if the console had a pre-existing but intermittent issue. Can folks provide additional assistance?
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I am attempting to install a modchip for the first time. I have an aladdin XT clone from Aliexpress. The xbox is 1.4. I have a wire from bottom-side D0 to the top-side D0 pad on the chip. BT on the chip is wired to ground using the quick solder connector. The HD is stock with the standard xbox dashboard. Xbox was verified functional pre-modding. The only other mod is the removal of the clock capacitor.
The console performs 3x boot attempts before FRAGing and eventually powering off.
I used the LPC diagnostics page to verify my soldering. All eleven pins have continuity to the points described in the "baldbouncer" diagram. The only weirdness I noticed is that baldbouncer pin 4 to test point 4 has a resistance of about 1K. The via immediately below test point 4 has a much lower resistance to pin 4. See blue arrow in attached diagram.
Despite watching a lot of tutorials and reading the documentation, I can't rule out some rookie mistake. Any tips for troubleshooting this?
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I am no expert on analog video signals but I can share my understanding. 240p is a hack used by early consoles to obtain a progressive signal. Rather than drawing alternating fields like 480i, consoles instructed the beam to draw every other line. This resulted in a smoother image than the flickery 480i. Ideally we'd want the Xbox to do 240p for emulation but it looks like the consensus is that even modded xboxes cannot do this.
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I would like to dedicate one of my xboxes to 8 and 16-bit emulation. I own a Sony 2030 PVM that is 240p/480i only. My understanding is that the xbox can output a component signal over SCART which doesn't help me as the monitor doesn't support component. Can a modded xbox be configured to output RGB-S over SCART? If so, how?
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I didn't realize the importance of magnification until I made that error. I bought YOCTOSUN LED Head Magnifier, Rechargeable Hands Free Headband Magnifying Glasses for about $20 on Amazon. I find the product to be good for consoling modding.
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I'm glad that you were right. Thanks again, @sweetdarkdestiny
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On my fourth try, I successfully repaired the traces. I was shocked that it worked. My advice for others new to soldering is not to attempt grounding D0 until you are comfortable working with really small connection points under magnification. D0 on the bottom of the board may be bigger than it on the top but it is still very small.
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Very helpful. Thanks, @sweetdarkdestiny. This is going to be very difficult for me to pull off with my limited experience but I will practice and give it a shot.
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No offense taken. A man must know his limitations. I verified using a multimeter that I only broke those two traces. Here's a picture under magnification.
I can't even fit a wire the size of a resistor leg in those vias. Any general guidance from the community on how I would go about this repair?
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5 minutes ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:
Oh boy.... You need to do a trace repair with some jumper wires from via to via but how it looks, you should some one else do the job.
And why do you want to install an aladdin in a nice TSOP'ed 1.0/1.1 ?
I wanted the experience of modchip installation. I have a bunch of 1.0/1.1s. I've never encountered a 1.6 in the wild so I figured I'd give it a shot on one I own. I'm really disappointed in myself that I may have damaged the unit potentially beyond repair. I appreciate the reply.
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I tried to install an Aladdin modchip on my TSOP'ed 1.0 xbox. I overestimated my soldering ability and managed to seriously botch the installation. It looks like I damaged the pads near D0. When I try to boot the xbox, it FRAGs. I'd like to get it back to a working state.
Do I have any options for repair or am I SOL?
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WD 160GB IDE WD1600AAJB. The problem disappeared after I locked the HDD. I appreciate everyone's help
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7 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
I still suspect the HDD or the sata adaptor.
What dash are you booting to and what was used to setup that HDD
Thanks for the tip. I will try another HDD. It seems strange to me that a HDD would be slow only if the DVD is disconnected. I'm using an IDE HDD. No adapter.
EvoX is the dash. I used TruHexen 2021.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
NOOB HDD Setup
in Hardware Mods
Posted
Can you share what Fatxplorer suggests as the partition table that it will create? I'm a bit confused about the specific situation you are encountering. Also make sure you have the latest v3 beta.