arfows

Tried the coma console fix and it had zero effect so this became a donor board. Hope I have better luck with the next one

Are you seeing any voltage output from the power supply when its plugged in? specifically are you getting 3.3vdc from purple? Doesn't need to be connected to xbox when you take the reading for standby voltage

Thanks. They didn't look smoothly filled in like the other boards I had so I was wondering. Went back and double checked the power situation and both PSUs looked good: Color wire Expected V Actual V PSU1/PSU2 Yellow 12 11.64/11.76 Red (all 3) 5 5.0/5.05 Orange 3.3 3.25/3.3 Brown 3.3 Stby/3.3 Pwr PSU1 3.24/3.17 PSU2 3.3/3.3 White 3.3 when power button pressed 3.2/pwr 3.29 Blue 3.3 3.24/3.29 I know you the voltage diagram says not to rely on white/blue voltages but I put them on here for reference Both PSUs power other boards without issue, my only idea would be if for whatever reason the board is super finicky about 12V and couldn't tolerate it being slightly under voltage (unless that is in the acceptable design range)...but then again, it FRAGS and stays running...sorry just thinking and typing real time here.

I was just inspecting the board prepping for trying the coma fix. Saw this - was wondering if it looked damaged, I haven’t modded it but maybe the person who had it before me possibly tried? Or does it look normal?

There's no mod chip and it does the power cycle thing. If nobody else can come up with anything I'll try the coma thing. seems like maybe its something with the power receptacle on the mobo, whatever its called that gives the signal to stay powered on or whatever component on the board relays that message maybe? Still doesn't explain the lack of video though.

I use the sticker on top by the IDE, but I don't use the numbers, I just codename each board (usually referencing where I got it or sometimes just cool sounding words) and write the codename in pen on the sticker & then use that when I build my trackers. To me, its easier that way rather than writing a bunch of numbers. I also use that codename for the hard drive and write it on the HD label so that I can find and match the originals should something happen to it before I mod it. I also enter the codename as the system screensaver text in case its installed and I don't want to take it apart to access it. Once the box is fully assembled and I put it in storage, you guessed it, codename along with what version it is, what HD is in there, what mods have been done, OS it is running, and what brand DVD it has goes on painters tape that i put on the top and front of the XBOX. Sorry, that answer kind of got away from me and I rambled, but that's how I keep it all straight. OCD and me.

Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

Update: Got the last Cap installed, put it in the original spot. Board works without issues (at least so far) without the R7D2 resistor. still looking for a definitive answer if you can use any combination of the 5 Cap slots for when I Inevitably damage one in the future

@KaosEngineerAny thoughts on Thanks so much for any advice you can give.

from what I can see, the polarity on all 5 looks correct

Copy thanks. Will wait for Kaos to weigh in to see if there are any other particulars with those five spots / if there was a reason why those specific three spots are used / or if it matters at all.

yes they are

Thanks on so many fronts! Its a 1.4 board. As soon as I get it back together, (it needs the common CPU caps replace too) I'll test it out to see what effect the missing R7D2 resistor has. Should I report back to this thread or is there a better thread/repository for that kind of info? follow on question is that I don't have 3300uf caps but I do have some 2200uf. Does it matter which of the five Cap spaces (C1E1, C2E5, C2E4, C2E3, C3E2) are used on a 1.4 board or does make a difference and any combination of the cap spaces can be used as long as the total uf is ~9900? Thanks again for your time and expertise!

So I buggered up the soldering of R7D1 to R7D2 and lost the transistor or whatever it is that normally sits on R7D2. What affect will that have? On another note, I opened a stock box to check on Caps. While I have the motherboard out, can I go ahead and solder the two points before ive done the softmod portion? Thanks

Have an LED issue of my own and stumbled upon this great thread. Adding what I’ve found to an old topic: pin 2 and 4 are 3.3V standby (kaos already mentioned this) pin 5 & 8 (Green LED). 1.55V Pin 6 and 7 (Red LED) 1.33V my issue is that the lights dont come on at all. I checked them in combo with another mobo and the lights worked fine. I have trace rot on the board and have other boxes that have trace rot, but all the other ones still had working lights. Any ideas?

thanks. a couple of the ribbons from the llama site i could see clearly enough to verify I had the ribbons in far enough...the only one I couldn't see well enough was the one closest to the front of the drive. Still triggering the error 12 though. The solder joints look good so that doesn't appear to be the problem. Anyone else have ideas why these drives are suddenly triggering the error?

Recently had two Philips DVD drives stop reading discs so I opened them up, disconnected all of the internal ribbon cables so I could try and pot tweak. When I reassembled them and powered it up again, I got the error 12 code. I've tested the IDE cable as currently connected with other DVD drives and it works fine so its not the cable or connection so I figure it has to be something I did when reconnecting the three internal DVD ribbon cables and the internal power cable. I was able to boot into an XBOX that had the DVD drive check bypassed via Cerbios so I could access UnleashX to check system information / DVD information. The DVD region showed up but every other DVD category just showed an italic "I". Does anybody have a pic of the bottom side of a Philips VAD 6011/21 (POS) DVD mobo that shows its internal DVD ribbon connections properly seated / how far the ribbon cables go in....or maybe have any other ideas as to the reason why I'm suddenly popping Error 12? (again, its not an ide cable connection issue, that has been ruled out). Thanks!

Nem responded to my DM and said I could post it...I asked him for the source doc so we could mod it with DVD and PSU caps instead of putting up two versions.

Still playing around with the fault tree idea. I've been out of the area for a while and other than this weekend won't have much time to work on it til early next year unfortunately

Yep, that's the one. I just messaged him. If he created it on Excel (or even Word) then it would be super easy to create pivot tables or sort commands that would be able to display the data multiple ways. I just PM'd him and gave him the link to this thread to see if he wouldn't mind if it was reposted here

I have a couple US power supplies (some from 1.0-1.1, some from a 1.4) pulled out right now and a couple DVD drives (samsung variants) that I need to take apart so if you guys want to collaborate on that part I could provide that data. Let me know

Great and helpful idea, but NeMesiS has done this already. He created a highly detailed Original Xbox Replacement Capacitor Reference Guide for all three main Motherboard versions, complete with a High/Med/Low replacement priority list, Cap Specs and locations, and even recommended Nichi and Kemet replacement Cap PNs. I didnt necessarily use all his recommended PNs when ordering replacement Caps because I had other considerations as well but it gives a great starting point...or if you have a crap ton to buy it makes it easier and saves so much time to just copy paste the PNs into Digikey or Mouser and be done with it. It lists every. single. MB cap. However, what it doesn't have are Mouser / DigiKey clickable links for the PNs nor does it have all of the PSU Caps (the 400V one isn't listed) or any of the DVD Caps. There aren't that many different Caps so creating clickable links wouldn't take much time. I downloaded the Guide from another site. I'm not sure what the ethics are of posting someone else's work in another forum even if you credit them nor am I sure if its ok to put a link to another site's forum in THIS forum so I'll refrain from doing so unless explicitly given the ok by an admin. If you would like info on the source site PM me or just contact Nemo himself...maybe he'd even post it here and be open to collaborating with you on adding links to it somehow and also including PSU and DVD Caps for the variants. Challenge with the PSU may be that there could be Cap differences between the 120 and 240V.

It’s a 1.0 and it’s just a simple press of the button that is required, I don’t have to mash it down

All Caps are fine visually

Happens with both the power and eject buttons. Doesn’t even power on long enough the first time to eject the disc tray. It starts to spool up to eject the tray and immediately loses power