ChriZz

https://de.farnell.com/panasonic/exbv8v330jv/widerstandsarray-konkav-0603x4/dp/2060153 That one should have been it. But please don't pin me on it. I don't have one on hand to measure because of the component size. As long as the value is right you can actually solder anything. I used normal carbon layer resistors as a test. @lilkuz2005 Test the resistors, maybe you're lucky and it's defective right there.

The resistance networks (NR 601 - NR 604) have 33 ohms, one or two become high-resistance over time...several kilo ohms to even mega ohms were the case with my Samsung DVDs. The other networks with 82 ohms have so far been unremarkable. Unfortunately I don't know why this happens. Poor component quality or overuse, who knows. I always got error code 12 and sometimes also HDD timeout errors and funny transfer errors. It took me a long time to find out what the cause was. But as I said, all of the ones I've had in my hands have exactly these failures. There were a few outliers where only the switch for “tray in” had bad contact. Ss_Dave was faster. You can see exactly where the components are located in his picture. At the beginning I simply bridged the defective parts with a normal resistor... I didn't have anything else and I needed to be sure that it was just this component... so that works too

I often had the problem with Samsung drives that the resistors became high impedance. But never a defective laser. Of around 20 Samsungs that I repaired, 18 had exactly this problem.

I found this. Maybe this approach from ss_dave will work

Thank you for the answers. I still don't have an xbox with a damaged tsop. So far it's just a consideration on my part as to whether the thoughts I'm having about it would also be feasible. Because I currently have a lot of Xboxes that have a Winbond chip in them and they are known to be a bit bitchy. What you say makes sense...add a switch. I didn't think of anything like that. The 3 wire trick only works with a 1.0 I thought. Since the same bios is flashed 4 times? In another topic I found something that ss_dave wrote. If I manage it I'll link it. It sounds promising and very complicated at the same time.

Hello everyone. I have another tricky question. Let's assume I have an Xbox 1.3 with a failed tsop flash. Assuming nothing works anymore. No picture, no sound, no dvd drive, nothing. Could I just solder an identical working chip piggyback onto the other one and then flash it again? Maybe you could also use a cable and connector to disconnect the working chip during the flash process? I would just be interested. Or is there an even easier way that I don't know yet? Greetings

Thank you Kaos

Hey bowlsnaper, in germany we have something called classifieds...formerly evilbay classifieds. This is completely without rip-off fees and from private to private. Personally, I don't buy anything from evilbay anymore because I don't have any money to give away or don't begrudge these people. Perhaps you have such a platform over there. In this country, moon prices are required and, in addition, a decent "retro" fee... what a pity. Hope you understand my english.

Hello, I have one or two questions regarding the D0 point. With an xbox with version 1.6 the whole thing is called lframe (what does this abbreviation mean?) and it has been confirmed by various people that there are several mAh tiles and if you simply short-circuit this line with ground "could" damage the mcpx chip. Therefore the lframe cut is recommended. So far everything is known and at least for 1.6 I do it that way. Now to my question. What about D0 ... what does D0 even mean and where does it come from, also from mcpx? Tiles there also several mAh? I don't know about you, but I always have a bit of a stomach ache when a conductor track is to be short-circuited for which it was not actually intended. Hope you understand my english. Greetings

Was auch sein kann, die (zumindest Samsung) Laufwerke haben 2 endschalter. Einen für lade offen und einen für lade geschlossen. Kann sein das einer davon keinen richtigen Kontakt mehr hatt. Die mal Durchmessen. Kannst auch mal ein anderes Laufwerk probieren. Wenn das auch automatisch öffnet, dann sind es vermutlich die Spuren unterhalb des Mainboards. Grüße

Der Kondensator hatte keine beule. Man sah nur etwas Feuchtigkeit.. Genau wie bei den Kondensatoren der Version 1.0-1.4 und wie gasagt, das ist nicht der erste bei der Version 1.6 der so aussieht. Ich denke mal die kommen jetzt alle so langsam. Hab es jetzt so gemacht wie ss_dave vorschlägt. Funktioniert tadellos. PS ich lese hier schon eine Weile mit und dieses geballte Insiderwissen ist einfach unglaublich und hat mir sehr geholfen meine Sammlung auf vordermann zu bringen. Dieses forum ist spitze! Beste Grüße aus Deutschland

Hallo zusammen. Hab diesen heute aus einer 1.6 entfernt.... Ist nicht die erste 1.6 wo der cap so aussieht