big F
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Posts posted by big F
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8 hours ago, braxtron said:
What is the FET doing on this board?
ping @N64 freak (sorry)Bounty hunting and a little score settling.
Oh sorry wrong Fett…
Fets normally do power modulating tasks. Like dumping excess voltage for instance. They do also have other handy capabilities.
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Looking very slick.
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Looks good, one question though, the HD has a small carbon filter breather hole in the top plate did you reinstate that when you wrapped it.
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Check and recheck polarities of the caps.
Also why replace the clock cap, they work fine without them, and to be honest are as much use as a chocolate teapot any way.
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If it has a separate mod chip, it could just need a more recent flash. That said I have had similar with mine when the HD has died.
Also worth a look at if it still has the clock capacitor attached. A few years in the attic and thats enough to accelerate the Cap killing itself and damaging the board. Good news is all but the most serious damage is fixable. Since the OG came out and caps started to be an issue 10+ years ago I have only come across two boards that were game over. Outside of the XBox arena is a different matter, seen plenty of boards that are trash due to crappy caps leaking.
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7 hours ago, Conker Box said:
I hope this helps anyone out!
This is a great case fan replacement
This is a great fan for a 1.0 bord with GPU fan slot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
Been using that brand fan in PC’s for a while now, they are as good as the reviews say. Is that a 3D printed mount?
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7 hours ago, OGXbox Admin said:
That of course isn't what I was saying. Please try to pay attention from now on.
You know I was joking……….
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On 4/20/2020 at 5:34 PM, OGXbox Admin said:
I do want to point out though, that literally everyone talks about removing the clock cap as good advice. If you disagree I'd like to see your explanation for this.
That COMPLETELY nullifies any argument against changing thermal paste. It's not difficult and not as risky as removing a capacitor.WTF you mean all these years I have removed the capacitors, and I should have left them in place to rot the boards……………Dang, coulda been doing something more productive.
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This is looking so buff!!
hopefully they will give a good price and not try to scalp you.
I have a link on one of my computers for a company who do laser cut work and if I remember correctly they quote via the cad files and the overall size of plastic sheet needed. They are States side but we’re still cheaper for me in Blighty,than the locals.
I can get it and post here if needed.
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3 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
If he is like me I have a hard drive that is setup the way I like and I use a standalone HDD cloning dock to make new HDD
I have exactly one of those, they make life so much easier.
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I may give this a crack. Seems I have everything needed in my stock and workshop tools.
Just been using my Altera to reprogram my Amiga Vampire after a botched firmware update.
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Tek Nemesis, just interested how you set the box up, with no DVD. Do you just temp put a drive in via a standard Ide and ide to sata adaptor.
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That may be why mine stopped working then.
The 90’s-2000’s really fuelled the start of our throw away society.
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The Commodore Amiga also sufferers with dodgy caps. Although 90% of it is with the later models namely the A600, A1200 and A4000. All of which use the same crappy bean can style surface-mount caps. They like the clock caps leak and destroy the board. The earlier Amigas only have issues with the rechargeable batteries used in the clock circuit, as they all used conventional boards with no surface mount parts.
That said some seem to benefit with a change of caps to newer ones, presumably new high quality caps are tighter on the tolerances and added to the old caps maybe slipping in capacity or voltage makes a difference.
All my collection of OGs have where applicable had the cap removed because they mostly were showing signs of leaking or had.
Except one, that for the last Ten years has been stored in the loft, which cycles between barmy hot in the summer and damp/freezing in the winter.
The cap on it as of today is mot leaking. I had simply forgotten about that Xbox needing to be looked at.Go figure on that.
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I think the splice is probably holding the power sense closed so the box power state is forced on.
check the traces for the power buttons on the main board. The intermittent nature of the buttons, if you tested it unplugged from the main board is not desirable but not likely to be the cause.
could be a simple as a dry joint on the power board socket, or another component in that line.
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Thanks as always for sharing your progress.
Been looking at dirtypcbs.com as an Alt to the other pcb sites I use, so read the about us page.
LOL worth a read, its mostly all about what they do and how but the bit at the bottom will tickle anyone who works in a customer facing industry.
Basically its what we all want to say but cant or we would get sacked. -
You will get away with that kind of power down for a while but long term its not good, if you catch the hard-drive in a write cycle when you pull the plug, it can and will eventually lead to data corruption.
best option follow the traces from the power button back onto the board, you'll probably find another track thats damaged.
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You can follow the trace back further if needed. The wire you need is kynar wire. It’s small enough to fit into vias. It solders easy and can be bought cheaply on eBay. A couple of pounds dollars etc for enough for several xboxes.
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SS_Dave that case looks like the generic Media PC cases that were available a few years ago. I have a full size PC board one. They look great and just blend into the lounge set up of your average audiophiles house.
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4 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
What brand?
E-DA from eBay. I have an Ender3 and have a lot of filament, some of the expensive stuff and some from companies who make printers.
This stuff being the cheapest I have ever bought I just though might be good enough for prototyping and things that I wanted quick etc.Turns out that it prints really nicely and has a really smooth finish, and the colours are crisp. Also bonus works using the same setting the really expensive stuff I have uses.
I ended up buying several rolls and will buy more once I run out.
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10 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
So I've revised things again, now the HDD attaches to the underside of the top piece eliminating the need for a hdd bracket at all, thanks for the idea @sweetdarkdestiny
This frees up more motherboard mount points for different CPU and GPU heatsink options, I might be scrapping my cpu bracket and going with 2 Evercool VC-RF VGA & Chipset Coolers, only £10 each on ebay.
Just waiting on the Star Tech SATA to IDE adapter and more filament to re print the entire case after lots of adjustments, I've gone for some Geeetech silk silver PLA, hopefully it'll look good
Looks good, to me.
I got some PLA+ in silver and it prints lovely, cheap too.
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2 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
I believe you can still find snapshots of the site on archive.org's wayback machine, just type the sites full web address into the search bar.
Unfortunately it's very incomplete and with a lot of missing pages but tuxuser has put a mostly functional forum archive up. It's read only and it wouldn't let me log in but a lot of the old info and tutorials are still there, just click on the forums tab on the main page:
https://xbox-scene.site/index.php.html
Nice will check it out
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20 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Awesome, it's good to see another person from the old x-s days still on the scene! Thanks, we didn't have 3d printing back then so I had to make do
Its a real loss to the community x-s was my goto site and so many shortcuts and guides I had went there. Never had the sense to offline copy anything as I just thought it would always be there.
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Solder paste is only usable with a reflow oven or hot air reworkstation.
a soldering iron will get the paste too hot and it will fail.Also the paste is not designed to bridge gaps.
much better to use kynar wire and just brigde from components or vias
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Is a HDD shell window possible?
in Case Mods
Posted
Back in the 90’s we used to do it, it was cool the first few times then got old as the drives always die prematurely. The only way to properly do it is with a clean room and a donor drive to give you the parts to mod prior to fitting.
If you work in electronics and have access to a clean room go for it.
For everyone else a clean room is not you going round with a duster and a quick tidy up prior to doing it.