big F
-
Posts
418 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by big F
-
-
If you own a soldering iron you should be equipped to do this.
Just look on youtube for videos of track repair. Yours is not as bad as some.
It can be fiddly but with the right tip its do able.
-
If the trace has not gone completely you should be ok I’ve had ones where there is still a connection but it acts intermittently as the current resistance is to high, build it back up with solder or conductive pen, fixes it. If the path is completely broken or gone you need to solder in a replacement link wire.
If you use a pen you can use nail polish to seal the copper and pen to stop it corroding. Choice of colour is up to you.
-
31 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
I have found in 95% of the time most people only need a basic chip anyway so having a Open Xenium, X3, Xenium ICE, Xecuter 2.6 or any other chip with multiple banks is a waste.
Amen to that of all my mod chips I think i loaded more than one bios on maybe two of them, just because I could. Never used the feature though since the days where you could use one on Xbox Live.
-
I have a 1.2 that had some damage from the clock cap, did the same till I cleaned it and put some solder onto the damaged track.
Have the same problems with Amigas the clock caps on them are in some cases 30 years old now and literally eat the board.
Best thing you can to with both is chop them off both will do fine with out a RTC function.
-
$18 each recently I was buying them for about £3 each on eVilbay and Aliexpress.
Aliexpress has them still and they cost a few bucks/pounds each.
Fine if you dont mind a wait of a week or two.
Search for the following and you should see them for a fiver.
Direct Reading Decoding Chip Replacement For Xbox Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT+4032
I bought mine for my 1.6 boxes and planned to put them in at some point. The blerb says 1.6 and 1.6b are compatible
currently removing mod chips from non 1.6 boxes and just TSOPing instead. -
My first xbox is still running an IDE drive and the original mod chip. Left it that way for nostalgia. Still spongy. So who knows with that. You can still screw it together though.
-
10 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Thanks
I'll be uploading the stl's to thingiverse once I'm happy with them
Make sure you put a disclaimer on it to stop people printing it on mass and selling it commercially or on eVilbay
seen way to much of that, and its not fair on the author or designer.
I can see me printing one or two, I owe a friend big time who just gave me his executer 3 faced XBox and LCD.
He’s into retro, and minimal, so may well do one for him with a full on arcade set up on it, as payback.
-
This looks sooooo good. Can’t wait to see the finished one.
-
13 hours ago, bez84 said:
Im aware, but for whatever reason when i put it back together with the top shield it doesn't feel snug...more spongey lol
My ide cable folding isn't as good as yours, Look great.
Leaving the top shielding out hasn't seemed to affected the units in anyway and helps with my lack of patience.
My first Xbox has the same issue no matter how i put it back together it still does the spongy not quite right feel to it.
-
21 hours ago, Ryzee119 said:
Good thing about git is that all history is saved
This is the last commit before the pcb revision update.
https://github.com/Ryzee119/ogx360/tree/4ca560ee891af992e6eee105a37c6758a537e22f
Thanks Ryzee19 that has sorted things. What’s the main difference other than a few less components.
-
Just got back this project as its been put on the back burner for a while now (nearly two years)
I am missing some components from my stash so just thought bring up then BOM and reorder.........
Easy.
Slight issue I had the original version board Printed and it seems my Folder on the Computer for the job is missing and has been long enough to not be on any of my backups on my backup server
The new version is slightly different and so is its BOM.
Does any one have the BOM for the original, I'd rather not screw up the board and waste component and an Xbox getting things wrong.
-
6 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
Don't start thinking that the clock cap in a version 1.6 doesn't leak it's just a matter of time and there has been cases of the 1.6 cap starting to bulge like all the others.
All capacitors are going to fail.
Agreed, one has simply to google regarding this, which affects vintage computers, by vintage I mean late 80’s and early 90’s. I have Amigas and they do have this issue badly in both computers and psu.
-
Very interesting
-
That works, I’d go for a clear ring round the button if it were mine just to allow the standard LED function and look. Would be easy enough to make with some clear lexan and a stepper drill and hole saw.
-
Thats them, no way Im going to pay that postage though.
the evercool ones though...........
-
Kannalo Not sure about the DreamPSU certainly has the correct voltages. Would still need to set up a transistor bridge to change the power on method though I think.
spototopolis where did you get those VGA coolers, been trying to get something like that for ages. Evercoolers are the one option I know work but the scene tax on them nowadays is a turn off.
-
From a point of newer components are going to be better age wise a 1.6 is best but for the ability to do things with the 1.0 has got to be the best.
I have several of each except the fabled unicorn 1.5 and love the 1.0 to work on the best.
-
Its no coincidence there used to be a book called the bomb makers cook book which had s whole chapter on what you could do with the stuff you’ll find in the average kitchen.
FYI the book is banned basically everywhere, and I only ever saw one copy of it back in the early 80’s owned by a friends whos father was high ranking in the Army.Back on topic the metal shield isn't really needed. I have several Xboxes that don't have one, with no ill effects.
-
A can of label remover does a nice job, just spray it onto the badge and wait. The lemon smelling spray, breaks the glue on the badge and you can just pull it out, spray a bit more on the badge and wipe off the rest of the sticky.
Then you are ready to polish the badge and paint or leave clear etc.
polishing is easy, I just use wet and dry and a sheet of glass to put it on, some water to lube it and off you go. Final polish can be achieved with car polish, toothpaste or similar.
Job done.
-
Nice job there.
-
Looks very professional to me.
-
1
-
-
Looks very sleek non the less.
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Bored on lockdown in the UK, modelled the mainboard (not complete obviously) to check if my case design dimensions are correct
Looking good
-
8 hours ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:
I dont like those super slimes to much. Look at the top of the joy ports. It would look way better to make it at least 0,5 cm higher (Same height like you have under the ports if you know what i mean). But thats just my opinion and depends on the personal taste i guess. Sad is, that this
iswas a nice limited edition.I like the slimness, but agree it looks to be a little to much as the top of the ports is slightly covered. This is a good size if you just remove the ports and fit an internal 360 controller mod. But that looks a trans green case, I wouldn't do it to one of those. Not sure how common the6 are in the US but over in Blighty they were not sold in great numbers.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
XBox Mini Case
in Case Mods
Posted
That is soooooo slick.