OGXbox Admin
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Posts posted by OGXbox Admin
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4 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I was just wondering, whatˋs the story with Admin? What is his background? How did he get into the scene? What led him to create this badass forum we all use? I am curious to know!
I try to stay in the background because the site is really about you all and I would never want to have much if any focus on me.
With that said... I have always loved Xbox modding. I was really into it back in 2002-2004. I learned all I could and modded lots of Xboxs back then. I changed careers in 2014 and that took me to a new state and somehow all of that change rekindled my love for Xbox. I looked around for people who were still into it and they were scattered everywhere. Xbox-scene was dying/dead. I created the FB group and it took off relatively quickly. I did a lot of things wrong there by choosing the wrong admins and commenting on topics unrelated to Xbox.... moderating in a way that was frankly unprofessional. (I still do from time to time if I'm in a weird mood.)
Once the FB group membership got around 10k, we started having content just disappear from the FB group. I became aware that the group could quite literally vanish in the blink of an eye.
My skillset is in the world of IT, so spinning up a web server was really no trouble. So I fired up a VM on my server at home, set it up and allowed it through my firewall and announced the site. Once the site grew, I went ahead and moved it to a VPS cloud host so it doesn't depend on my home's power and internet reliability.Hopefully I covered whatever you were looking for. If not let me know and I'll answer almost anything.
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On 4/19/2022 at 12:01 PM, Greyleaf said:
Hi Everyone,
I am new to the OGXBOX scene. I have a working TSOPed 1.1 unit with 128GB of RAM I bought on Ebay.
I also have several 1.6 motherboards/shells and I am desperately trying to install an OpenXenium board on any of them.
I believe I ruined two 1.6 motherboards already (maybe they are salvageable?).
I just tried soldering on the LPC rebuild board and 7 row pin header on a known, working 1.6 board last night and I tried to be very meticulous and careful but the console is now FRAGing (3 start attempts followed by blinking red and green). The actual Openxenium has no leds lit when this happens.
I have sucessfully soldered a few Playstation 1 modchips as well as a Sege Genesis MegaAmp in the past, but I am having such a hard time getting the LPC rebuild (wire based or QSB board based) and OpenXenium chip working.
Any pointers? Will pictures help?
Where are you located? It's possible we have someone that could fix them for you and you might learn a bit from that.
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Have you tested with another dash?
My guess is the reading you're seeing has 1 number cut off. Basically when it is measuring 20-29C you're just seeing 2C. When it's 30-39 you're seeing 3C. Just a thought. Try a different dash and see if you get the same thing. -
That is a d0 wire which when grounded does tell the MCPx whether to boot from the onboard bios (TSOP) or from lpc... which is where that mod chip is attached.
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44 minutes ago, JasperVanCleef said:
Hi,
The jumper is set to the correct position (I also tried cable select).
I had left it on slave once with one of the two HDDs and it popped Error 07.
Thanks for the input however
What version of chimp are you using?
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14 minutes ago, JasperVanCleef said:
Hi all,
First of all, I'd like to thank Rocky5 and all involved in the softmodding tool, that really is a painless way to softmod.
18 years ago I was reading unofficial magazines on Xbox mods and was baffled by all that's possible and I'm glad I can start doing similar stuff thanks to you!
I'm seeking help in the following problem, I posted this on Reddit but maybe you guys will have a better idea of what's going on here. I have seen several topics with the same problems over different boards but have yet to find a solution. I hope you guys don't mind.
I've been stuck on this for the past few days. I'm trying to clone my hard drive (Seagate ST310211A, the 10GB one).
I've tried using a WD3200AAJS, which was listed as working on x-pecs by multiple accounts, but haven't had luck as it returns Error 11 (missing/malfunctioning dvd drive).
I know for a fact the drive is fine because when I plug everything back together with the stock drive, the console boots properly.
Now, the WD is rated for 0.68A at 5v and 12v, so I looked up the current rating for the stock Seagate, which is here :
Since the WD was quite a bit higher I took another hard drive I had lying around (Hitachi HTB-DS7AE100(B) ).
Now I hadn't seen anything telling me this drive would be lockable or anything but I gave it a try nonetheless. Chimp recognized it fine and the clone went smoothly and it locked okay. The drive is rated for 0.42A for both 5 and 12v, so I thought it'd work better now.
Still no luck as I get error 11 again.
I do have a new 80 wire 40 pin cable, and am using the startech adaptor. The cable works fine with the stock drive, and the startech adaptor has good reputation, so I'm really at a loss here. Jumper switched back from slave to master (forgot it once and had error 7 this time).
Can it be the hard drive drawing too much current and not leaving enough for the dvd drive? Dvd drive tray opens and closes even with error 11, everything's plugged in tight.
I'm really at a loss here so any help is greatly appreciated, even if it's just 'buy this HDD, it works fine with the startech adaptor' !
It sounds to me like your jumper setting on the startech adapter is set to slave. Move it to master and see if it boots up.
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56 minutes ago, MarkC1970 said:
I am just getting to know my old Xbox again and I cant seem to get the BIOS to flash. I have D0 on the board tied to ground so it always boots from the modchip and the BT on the RHS of R3G3.
If I click the power button it disables the Aladdin and frags, this is what I expected. If I hold the power button down either briefly or for longer it boots but the BIOS is write protected. How do you boot these Aladdin's so that the BIOS is flashable?
Thanks...
Some of them show a different hex value for flash type and it isn't always present in the ini file. The good news is: it tells you the current value for the flash it booted from. You can copy that down and add it to the ini file. Usually that makes the flash writable.
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6 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Yeah i understand. I thought things like kills had to be negotiated with the client to some extent. But what you're saying is everything takes place on the host and that the client is more of a "remote terminal", for lack of a more appropriate term?
That's exactly right. In the peer to peer model like this, the kills are decided by the host.
Halo 2 was a client-side hit detection model. So while the clients still report back positioning to the server, the client decides if a hit took place and notifies the server of that. -
7 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
WOW! How have I not seen this yet!? I am a tool! My foot is in my mouth!
Host machine has the advantage? How?
the client xboxes have to send and receive updates to and from the xbox acting as a server. There is latency in both directions. The host xbox has no such thing. It doesn't need to wait on updates. It's current version of events is what the player on that xbox sees no matter the latency from the other xboxes. They never have any sort of lag at all while the other players do have some... even if it is small. It doesn't take much latency at all to give a HUGE advantage. That's why the host xbox wins more times than not.
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8 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I can't imagine, logically, why hosting the game on an extra Xbox would cut down on "lag". Any modern router should be able to handle the load of a 20 year old TCP system link. As far as I'm aware, there is no server-only version of Halo, for the Xbox, 1 or 2. Nah disregard this. You shouldn't have any latency problems.
And since that's the case, don't worry about RAM amounts.
The only real advantage to the extra ram is being able to run some arcade games that were ported over, running heavier emulators that are prone to crashing on 64mb of RAM (like surreal64) and running most of the 720p .xbe files for retail games. And maybe some video files that cause XBMC to crash.
It's called Halo NHE or neutral host edition
https://halo1nhe.com/
The host xbox always has host advantage. People have done some videos to prove it. This make the host xbox an NPC and therefore nobody playing is hosting. -
39 minutes ago, Mu. said:
Sounds good, I can see it easily being a 512kb BIOS which will make TSOP users like myself a little upset.
If you have a 1.0 or 1.1 you'll be fine.
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2 hours ago, JohnnyHUN said:
I have the ROM, installed to the HDD, but it's not appearing in my game list, every other game I installed is there and playable, but not this one. I tried multiple versions from the internet, same results. What do I missing? Or its a game that is only playable from the DVD like that couple other?
If it has default.xbe 1 folder below the "Games" folder where your other games are located, it will be picked up by the dashboard.
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10 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Forgive me if this is something that can be found by searching, but I haven't found it:
Is there currently any chip in production that supports the X3 bios? It seems like the only ones around have 256k flashes, unless I'm mistaken
The X3 bios is for the X3 chip. I think they made a stripped down version that you could run on a 1MB modchip but there isn't really any reason to do it.
The Open Xenium is currently in production and it's similar. I don't believe it will run an X3 bios but they have their own alternative. -
6 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:
Network switches only allow traffic to their connected device's MAC address. All other traffic is filter out. System Link may rely on all devices seeing all network traffic to establish a session.
A hub does not filter network traffic. All ports receive data packets sent from all other port attached devices.
The xbox functions just fine connected to a switch. System Link functions at Layer 2. Even though it will give 0.0.0.1 and 0.0.0.2 ip's to the devices, this doesn't really matter. Broadcasts go out through a switch just fine.
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19 hours ago, SuperAkuma said:
This may be my ignorance so please throw a flag and help me better understand where needed. I nulled out both HDDs with 32 instances of the character 1 and wrote out the eeprom prior to locking the drive (same process on both units), is this a consequence of what you mention?
If you just nulled the hdd key, I don't think that would cause this. There is much more in the eeprom than just the hdd key though. If you nulled the entire eeprom, yeah that's what caused this.
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This will happen when there is a version mismatch of the game itself. It will also happen when there is a version mismatch of retail / debug bios I've unexpectedly found.
Your networking settings inside of your dashboard have no effect on your system link game. System link uses its own networking and ignores anything else.
Did you happen to clone eeproms? If both devices have the same mac address it will cause problem such as this. -
On 11/22/2021 at 6:13 PM, big F said:
WTF you mean all these years I have removed the capacitors, and I should have left them in place to rot the boards……………Dang, coulda been doing something more productive.
That of course isn't what I was saying. Please try to pay attention from now on.
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2 hours ago, Pickle said:
Right the 1.5 is basically a unicorn version. I have the focus chip so it should be 1.4.
So that probably the biggest issue i have is that the dvd (phillips) wont read the discs anymore.
Im thinking of using that tool i saw to create an image on a harddrive from windows. I have another ide drive I think i will try this on.
unicorn is a good term because everything you search says it exists except NOBODY and I do mean NOBODY has ever seen one.
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8 minutes ago, ShadyBlues said:
Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine.
So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find)
I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it.
So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART.
Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up.
So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open.
From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that).
What do you guys think?
can we see some high res pics of the board?
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6 hours ago, xretrogamedevx said:
So realistically if I'm using StarTech IDE/SATA adapter with an 80 pin cable and I'm getting massive problems it's more likely than not the cable?
with any ide to sata adapter, you HAVE to use the 80 wire cable. If it gives you problems, replace it with a new 80 wire cable. They don't work properly with the 40 wire. It will always do what yours is doing.
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2 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
I am leaning toward the 80 way IDE cable as the old hard drive should work with it and I have had a cable that was intermittent on the DVD plug (it had a bad crimp on the 40 pin plug).
I would say the sata2ide is all good.
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.You are 100% correct. The ide to sata adapters (even if they appear to) don't work correctly with the 40 wire ide cable. You MUST use the 80 wire.
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Most 1.6 bioses are not compatible with 1.2. That is most likely the case.
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It flashes orange for a few reasons. Usually overheating. It could also be (if orange and green) that you don't have an av cable plugged in. Others say it could be a solder splash.
What has changed recently? Have you removed the clock cap?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Who is OGXbox Admin?
in General Xbox Discussion
Posted
Thank you for being part. I'm not the important one. You all are. This site could be totally empty... yet here you are. So the thanks goes to all of you.