TelaKeppi
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Everything posted by TelaKeppi
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Yes, you are correct. I was sure my Crystal Green EU version was 1.4 which has this issue but sure enough it has the older Conexant encoder.
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Are you talking about "jailbars", the vertical lines when looking at a solid background color? Those are caused by the Conexant encoder in 1.4 Xboxes when outputting 480i signal, You can use BIOS that always forces 480p or internal HDMI mod that captures the signal directly before the Conexant encoder. At the moment there's only one such solution available, XboxHD+. Without forcing 480p the external HDMI solution will include the artefacts when converting the 480i signal.
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This one, https://github.com/Prehistoricman/Xbox256MB/tree/master it's a patched XblastOS which also includes testing of the onboard RAM.
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Indeed the Modxo GitHub page is not very beginner friendly. The main takeaway is they only offer you the firmware and direct to motherboard wiring instructions. To make it more user friendly you should take a look at something like https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:ModXo that has a list of adapter boards to make it more like old school mod chip. You download the gerber files in a zip, throw the zip file to a site like JLCPCB or PCBWay, order few adapters and rest of the components needed to build it. Then its just assembling, soldering, flashing the Modxo firmware with PrometheOS (or choosing just a BIOS file without PrometheOS, which needs to be packed with the supplied tool before flashing). To my understanding you solder D0 to ground on the motherboard to always autoboot from the LPC port (assuming the mod chip itself works). Then you don't need a separate wire from the chip to D0 point on the motherboard.
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You need a guaranteed working ModChip with compatible BIOS if you use HDD from another system or a motherboard you know nothing about. Working ModChip to bypass the EEPROM HDD key if you try to use HDD from another system and again working ModChip if the original BIOS is corrupted.
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Does anybody actually know what PrometheOS brings to the table when used together with Cerbios, regarding XboxHD plus? I mean I have no PrometheOS capable MOD chip so I'm only running Cerbios and XboxHD plus and its certainly not working like it was working with m8plus Bios. Changing any setting with Elpis app results in a distorted picture stuck in 480p and loss of 720p display modes. Only way to get 720p working again is to re-flash the XboxHD plus. This could be a PAL issue but I'd like to get it sorted or submit a bug report, but to who? Even when everything is "working" rebooting the console shifts the picture to the right until nothing is displayed, only a full power cycle centers the picture.
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Help turing Raspberry Pi into Wifi bridge
TelaKeppi replied to XboxLuver's topic in General Xbox Discussion
I've done this with GL.iNet Mango router. You set it up in a repeater mode connecting manually to your WiFi then after initial setup plug it to your Xbox with a cable. It acts as a wireless bridge although technically it adds a NAT so you'll need to add port forwarding to access FTP on your Xbox. Accessing FTP works with the Mango's IP, since port forwarding will route the traffic to your Xbox. Mango router runs OpenWRT (with a modified GUI) that is available for Raspberry Pi, so I would think the setup is similar. MikroTik mAP lite can be set up to act as a pure WiFi bridge but the setup is quite a bit harder and may require configuring via terminal. -
Depending on your location, there might be cheaper alternatives to recover the Xbox than getting a decent mod chip and soldering kit. ArduinoProm, use pre-soldered Arduino board with dupont wires. CH341a Programmer, harder with 1.0,1.1 consoles but should be doable. You need a IDE/Sata to USB adapter for connecting new drive to PC and creating a new drive with FATXplorer. If you go with Sata drive, you also need IDE to Sata adapter for the Xbox.
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I was able to flash my DuoX2 with XBlastOS XBE version with the Cerbios Bios Flasher Disc. I chose 256Kb version since if i remember correctly Chinese Duo X2 clones don't actually have 1Mb split in half (chosen with the physical bank switch) but instead 2 x 256kb, so better safe than sorry. By default the Duo X2's came with 1.6 compatible bios in bank 2 so you might want to double check what you have in those banks and then flash the one that does not work (boot with the one that works, then flick the switch and then flash), then you have a backup if something goes wrong.
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OGX-Mini, Pico firmware for emulating Xbox (and other) controllers
TelaKeppi replied to SoftMachine's topic in Hardware Mods
Interesting, so the only thing that differentiates this from OGX360_T4 would be the ability to function as a memory card? Any way to add support for XMU with a 16Mb QSPI chip? -
For the best component AV cable, search for a original MS 360 component cable, cut the head off and solder in OG Xbox AV connector. You can get lot of used Xbox RCA AV cables from eBay and they are pretty easy to disassemble. Separate AV connector can be also bought from Aliexpress, don't know about the quality though. For a full set of capacitors, https://console5.com/store/microsoft-xbox-original-cap-kit.html this is by far the easiest but maybe not the most cost effective. 4-Pin 90 degree Molex power connectors can be bought from everywhere, its the same as AT/ATX. DVD drive power cables used to be available from Aliexpress but can't find any now. Your best bet would be eBay. Don't know about the ThumbSticks, hopefully someone chimes in for a good quality replacement. I have few controllers that drift and need both, new ThumbSticks and potentiometers.
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Could be T60N02R,
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At this day and age, proper knowledge of OG Xbox debugging is either non existent or lost media. Everything related to either FRAG or orange flashing in Google was either waste of time or inaccurate. Replacing the ADM1032 was the only thing it could have been since its a older rev 1.0 but apparently orange flashing can be a just a general error.
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Took a few months to find a place capable of reinstalling the flex, but in the end it worked out. At one point the whole console was acting up really weird, flashing orange, fan 100% then powering off. All the symptoms pointed to somewhere else and I even went ahead and replaced ADM1032 but to no avail.
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Just a little update to this, since this thread was the first hit for me in Google for a "green LED" in regards to Stellar. Indeed the flex cable was the issue, after installing completely new flex cable the HDMI board started working.
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I'm not following your logic, but there is currently no true HDMI product available that isn't tied to a software. Before the XboxHDMI I used X2 4981. With specific bios patches required that's not possible. iND is messing with my partitions = Bad, M8 doesn't support 128Mb = Worse. I'm fine with a product that ties hardware and software in single package if it has all the features I need. Like now with the latest firmware 128Mb support, 1.4GHz support and working partition utility, everything I need should be covered. And the Stellar upgrade kits were sold out so I opted for a full set. I figured I'll use the original in some of my other Xboxes.
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Exactly that. Unless the BIOS patches are integrated in something decent like Cerbios, there's only bad and worse alternatives for my use case.
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Reverted back to the old XBlast and XboxHDMI. HDMI board is blinking blue LED but no green so no picture. I've definitely damaged the flex install even though I didn't touch it much, only swapped the board and reattached the flex. The console does boot with the old XBlast, luckily I've set XBlast OS as a secondary BIOS, makes debugging so much easier. I have no proper equipment to reflow the flex so I'll contact the repair shop where it was originally installed. Also checked all the ram chips, there was a blob of solder in the other chip as well. I removed that but it looked like that may have been there since the ram upgrade.
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Well well well Had to dug out my magnifier and there's definitely something. Checked for continuity between the legs and there seems to be none. Phew! Removed the speck but the issue remains, I think I'll have to revert back to the old HDMI mod to rule out issues with the Stellar kit. Thing is, I've already shortened and connected d0 to ground. Which I believe enables bios lookup from LPC port but does not enable the mod chip. My previous chip was Aladdin Xblast that doesn't have BT pad. Is there another way to enable it?
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The previous kit was installed by a repair shop, flex cable and all. So I've only replaced the QSB to a newer revision, attached old wires to new HDMI module, connected d0 to ground and removed old wires not needed any more. Can someone confirm the LED should light up as soon as you hit power button?
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I've upgraded my old XBlast + XboxHDMI setup to Stellar XboxHD+ kit and after powering on the system I have no video output. There's a green LED in the XboxHD+ PCB but it's not lit. I've measured the 5V pad and I'm getting around 4.91V. I've also replaced the QSB with a newer revision and it's measuring around 130 Ohms. Stellar board have been updated to the latest firmware before installing and the link cable is connected. Anything I'm missing or should I RMA it?
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If you end up doing more Ogx360i mods, I'd be interested in one, maybe two depending on the price.
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I'd like to ask the same question. Are these still available? Seems to be harder and harder to acquire a decent mod chip.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48